Sicily boasts some of Europe’s most beautiful and pristine beaches, but since we live in San Diego, we usually don’t spend much, if any, time at the beach on our vacations– Hawaii being an exception. On our first visit to Sicily, we spent one lovely afternoon on a nearly deserted beach near Porto Paulo. The season was over, but the water was warm and beach was inviting.
The beach at La Caravella, Taormina.
This year, we opted for a more leisurely paced vacation and chose to spend some time enjoying the sand and surf. Our hotel in Taormina, the Villa Ducale, has arrangements with two local beach clubs—Lido La Pigna and La Caravella Lido. This is how it works—you reserve a place at the beach club through your hotel, the beach club sends a shuttle to collect you and takes you back to your hotel at a pre-agreed upon time at the end of the day. This is fairly typical. The fee for this was 8 Euro for Lido La Pigna and 12 Euro for La Caravella Lido. The beach club fees were about half the price of a round-trip taxi ride from our hotel into the town of Taormina and included reserved lounge chairs and umbrellas. Having a reserved lounge chair is a very good idea, especially during the busy summer season. Even in October when we visited, the weather was fantastic so the beach was crowded.
Reserve a chaise and umbrella, especially when the beach is crowded. Lido La Pigna, Taormina.
If you’d like to go to the beach after walking around town, as we did, you can also take the funicular down. Just outside the Porte Messina, the funicular is operated by ASM (same as bus line), and for 3 Euros, you can take a scenic one-way ride to the parking lot right across from La Pigna. It’s about a 10-minute walk from the same parking lot to La Caravella.
One way fare to the beach is just 3 Euros.
Scenic funicular ride takes only a few minutes from Taormina down to the beach.
Lido La Pigna, Taormina.
La Pigna was more crowded than La Caravella, probably due to the proximity of the funicular, but the water was pristine. There were paddle boats for rent, excursions to Isola Bella and that large rock you could swim out to and jump off—an activity many engaged in.
Lifeguard on duty at La Pigna, Taormina, Sicily. Signs warn of sudden drop off in water depth–in Italian, German and English.
Taiwanese women (self-identified) walked up and down the beach at La Pigna offering massage from 20 to 40 Euros for outdoor treatments ranging from foot reflexology to full body massage. We followed our masseuse down the beach where she had a little area set aside and had our treatments on chaise lounges on beach—not at all private, but very relaxing.
Lido La Pigna, Taormina, Sicily.
There were also some souvenir sellers on the beach at La Pigna. There were neither masseuses nor vendors on the beach at La Caravella on the days that we were there.
La Caravella Lido, Taormina, Sicily.
Our hotel provided us with a handy tote bag and nice big towels. This is important—be sure to get towels from your hotel because otherwise you have to pay a hefty rental fee for towels at the beach–if they have any. We learned this lesson the hard way and wound up paying 12 Euros each, just to use towels at a beach club in the Southeast of Sicily. There were no free towels available at any of the beach clubs we visited in Sicily. Remember to bring your own towels!
Swimming out to the rocks is an appealing activity at La Caravella, Taormina.
All of the beach clubs we visited had changing facilities and showers –but not the kind I imagined. In my mind, they would be like those at the fitness clubs and beach clubs I have visited or belonged to in the U.S.—comfortable locker rooms, all amenities (including hair dryers) provided, private, etc. The changing rooms at the beach clubs we visited in Sicily ranged from a portable unit, not unlike a large port-a-potty, to a permanent cement structure attached to the beach club’s restaurant. These changing rooms are utilitarian at best, but better than going home in a wet, sandy swimsuit.
Restaurant at La Caravella, Taormina. Changing facilities were in connecting building.
The showers were outdoors at both Taormina beach clubs we visited. In fact, the showers were outdoors at all the Sicilian beach clubs we went to. No soap or shampoo was provided and the showers are completely public— in other words, there is no privacy at all. The good news is that you are able to rinse off and even wash your hair after swimming—if you bring your own toiletries.
Both beach clubs had attentive chair-side beverage service as well as full- service restaurants on the property. We enjoyed a nice pizza and salad for lunch at Lido La Pigna but only had drinks at La Caravella since we had already had lunch in town.
La Terrazze at Lido La Pigna, Taormina.
La Terrazze’s menu, Lido La Pigna, Taormina.
We shared a pizza and a salad for lunch at Lido La Pigna, Taormina, Sicily.
There are other beach clubs in Taormina besides the two we visited and some hotels have their own. Wherever you choose to enjoy the beaches in Sicily, relax , unwind and have a wonderful time.
The town of Taormina offers several “must sees” including the Greek Theater and the Public Gardens. The Greek Theater, or Teatro Greco Taormina, was built by the Greeks, possibly in the 3rd Century BC, and rebuilt and expanded by the Romans. The arena is spectacular and is still a venue for all kinds of entertainment ranging from rock to classical music, ballet, and theatrical performances. It is also the home of the Taormina Film Festival. The views over the Bay of Naxos and up to Mt. Etna are amazing. There will be lots and lots of other people sharing the views at what is possibly the most famous, and certainly among the most visited site in Sicily. Even when it’s crowded, it is worth waiting to enter and enjoy the setting.
Taormina’s Teatro Greco is one of the most visited sites in Sicily.
Stunning landscaping at Taormina’s Greek Theater.
After braving the crowds, go next door to the luxurious Grand Hotel Timeo at Via Teatro Greco, 59. If you are staying here, you are indeed fortunate. While we did not, several friends have and loved it. Even if you are not a guest, you can relax with a drink or coffee on their expansive verandah—and once again, enjoy the incredible views. There are many, many lodging options in Taormina at all price points. The Grand Timeo is among the more expensive choices, but it is a very grand property and if you want a location in the heart of Taormina and price is not a consideration, why not?
The lovely terrace at the Grand Hotel Timeo is a fantastic place to relax with a drink or coffee.
The public gardens, Giardini della Villa Comunale, located on Via Bagnoli Croce are gorgeous and blissfully peaceful. Even though they are quite near to the Greek Theater, you’ll rarely encounter crowds while strolling the lovely manicured grounds, which also afford spectacular views.
Taormina’s beautiful public gardens are a peaceful oasis in a busy tourist town.
Giardini della Villa Comunale, Taormina, Sicily.
The gardens were the creation of Lady Florence Trevelyan, an Englishwoman known for her dalliances as well as her botanical interests. Lady Trevelyan included a number of “follies,” buildings included for visual interest but no other real purpose, in her gardens.
A so-called “folly” at the Giardini della Villa Comunale in Taormina, Sicily.
Along with beautiful Mediterranean and exotic flowers, plants and trees that keep the garden colorful all year long, you’ll find a human driven “torpedo” from World War II at Taormina’s Giardini della Villa Comunale. The craft, which operators in the Italian Navy referred to as the Maiale (pig) was electronically propelled and driven by two crewmen in dive suits who steered the torpedo to an enemy ship, detached the warhead, and affixed it to the enemy ship’s hull. Mission accomplished, the divers rode away on the torpedo before the explosion. An interesting find in the public gardens!
The human torpedo nicknamed “Maiale” or pig, at Taormina’s beautiful public gardens.
Like many travelers, we chose to start our Sicilian adventure in Taormina. About an hour’s drive north from the Catania airport, Taormina is high above the Ionian Sea, affording fantastic views of both the sea and Mt. Etna, especially if you have chosen lodging above the town as we did, at the Villa Ducale. More on that later.
Taormina, Sicily.
Mt. Etna peaks through the clouds, Taormina, Sicily.
The drive up the winding A18/E45 to Taormina is usually uneventful except for when you have to share the narrow roadway with enormous tour buses and trucks careening through curves beside you. As we approached the A18/E45 toll way on our last visit, we saw traffic backed up for a good distance—this was unusual. When we finally arrived at the ticket booths, we noticed many people leaving their cars and walking up to the ticket machines. There were no workers on site and the machines were not functioning either. A number of the toll barriers had been lifted up and people were just driving through—without tickets. We followed suit while I frantically searched my memory banks for the Italian words to tell the toll taker at the other end why we had no ticket. I had just about figured out what to say when we reached our exit and saw the big posters pasted on the tollbooth—Sciopero–Strike! We should have known. There are frequent strikes in Italy. They are usually announced in the media in advance of the event and they are not particularly long lived. It is a good idea to pay attention to what and who exactly will be striking, particularly if you are relying on public transportation.
Memorize the word sciopero– strike! Strikes occur often in Italy.
That experience behind us, we continued our drive up into the hills above the city of Taormina to our hotel—The Villa Ducale on Via Leonardo da Vinci, 60, Taormina. I must admit all those glowing Trip Advisor reviews I read made me a little apprehensive when I booked in for our first visit last year. How could anyplace be that good? I’m pleased to report that it is indeed a wonderful place to stay. We have stayed there twice for a total of seven nights and were delighted with our lodging, the service, staff and the quiet location above the busy town of Taormina.
Our room at Villa Ducale, high above Taormina, Sicily. Sister hotel, Villa Carlotta is located in Taormina, closer to the sea.
Our terrace at Villa Ducale, Taormina, Sicily. We also had a small balcony.
Friendly, attentive service is a hallmark at Villa Ducale, Taormina, Sicily.
There is no “restaurant” at the hotel however; dinner is served nightly on their beautiful terrace with gorgeous views to the sea below and Mt. Etna above. Sit back with a nice glass of prosecco, enjoy the view and peruse the menu featuring delicious Sicilian specialties like fresh tuna or swordfish prepared in a number of ways, pastas featuring seasonal ingredients, several meat dishes, and lovely vegetable dishes and salads. They have a good wine list with reasonably priced local selections. Desserts are also terrific. Everything is prepared in- house and with a deft hand. Service is attentive and the terrace is glorious. If you stay at Villa Ducale, be sure to book in for dinner your first night (at least) as they have limited seating.
Dinner on the terrace, Villa Ducale, Taormina, Sicily.
Simply grilled swordfish at Villa Ducale, Taormina, Sicily.
Breakfast is also served on the terrace, as are complimentary cakes at teatime and appetizers at cocktail hour. There is also a sister property, Villa Carlotta, down in the town of Taormina. It has a pool, which is available to guests at both hotels, and there is a complimentary shuttle that goes between the two as well as to the town.
Unless we were going further afield, as we did when we drove up the Etna, we parked our car at the hotel and relied on public transportation and taxis. Parking is a nightmare in town and the winding, narrow roads are harrowing.
Complimentary cakes are served at teatime at the Villa Ducale, Taormina.
Next up, exploring the town of Taormina. Be prepared for lots of tourists and souvenir shops, but several “must sees” and some hidden treasures!
Even in October, the streets of Taormina are jam packed with tourists, many trailing their tour guides. Large, slow, name tags and fanny packs in evidence, many of these groups of visitors disembark from their cruise ships early in the morning, and after a long day of souvenir shopping for the likes of Homer Simpson as The Godfather tee shirts, thankfully get back on their boats before sunset.
The streets are Taormina are packed with people–even in October.
Both the sheer numbers of people and the shops offering absolute junk surprised me. I don’t think I’ve ever seen so many souvenir shops selling so many of the same silly things.
Godfather tee shirts are in abundance at Taormina’s shops.
How do all these shops stay in business?
Despite the crowds and questionable merchandise, the main street, Corso Umberto I, is certainly worth a stroll and there are lovely churches and galleries to stop in and admire as you make you way through the throngs. There are gates at each end of Corso Umberto I– Porta Catania and Porta Messina, through which you enter this pedestrian thoroughfare. Piazza del Duomo and Piazza IX Aprile are the two main squares in the town with the requisite cafes and shops, though there are also bars and restaurants, along with countless shops, all along the Corso and on the smaller streets. Cafe Wunderbar on the Piazza IX Aprile looks inviting and always seems to have a crowd.
Piazza IX Aprile, Taormina, Sicily.
Piazza del Duomo, Taormina, Sicily.
La Fontana, Taormina.
Ceramics are a really popular souvenir all over Sicily and Taormina is no exception. Ceramic heads of kings and queens are especially sought after in the Taormina area. There are a number of stories around this with slight variations, but all have a grisly ending.
Ubiquitous ceramic king and queen heads.
Taormina, Sicily.
More, more, more.
Modern ceramics are popular, too.
Leave the main streets and piazzas and you’ll be rewarded by Taormina’s quiet corners.
Find lovely galleries and shops on Taormina’s small narrow streets off the Corso Umberto I.
This deconsecrated church is now a gallery on a small street off the Corso Umberto.
Taking a break in Taormina.
There are restaurants to suit all tastes and budgets in Taormina, but if you like arancini—a Sicilian specialty that is basically a big rice ball stuffed with delicious cheese, meats and/or vegetables, (tastes so much better than it sounds) you must go to Antica Rosticceria da Cristina. It’s at 2 Via Strabone—a little alley off the Piazza del Duomo near the Excelsior Hotel This is a carry out place so you’ll queue up, choose your favorite (I like the original), grab a drink and then either eat at one of their very few tables or walk up to the little park outside the Porta Catania (go left after you walk back up the alley towards the main street) and enjoy your al fresco lunch.
Try da Christina for arancini in Taormina.
The humble but tasty arancino.
Afterward, treat yourself to some gelato for dessert. My favorite is Gelateria Artigianale O’sciality on Piazza Antonio Abate, just outside the Porta Catania. Yum!
Delicious artisanal gelato in Taormina.
If you’re feeling quite fit, or just need to walk off the arancini and gelato, take a walk up the 700+ steps through the town to the Madonna Della Rocca and the Castello Saraceno. Look for the signposts.
The cross of the church of Madonna della Rocca can be seen from the town of Taormina below.
The steps can be steep and are narrow in some areas, but the views are superb and there are sculptures marking the Stations of the Cross along the way.
Stations of the Cross mark the steps between Madonna della Rocca and the town of Taormina below.
700+ steps lead to Madonna della Rocca from Taormina, Sicily.
There are also benches in some spots so that you can stop and rest. Once you reach the top, visit the small but beautiful church of the Madonna della Rocca, so named because it is built into the rock on which it stands.
The church of Madonna della Rocca is built into the rock on which it stands.
The Castle of the Saracens is not open for touring but you can admire the ruins from a distance.
You can choose to walk down those many, many steps back to town, take a bus which passes just a block below in front of Villa Ducale on Via Leonardo da Vinci or, depending upon the time of day, have the Al Saraceno restaurant or Villa Ducale call a taxi for you. Villa Ducale offers its guests a complimentary shuttle service into town and back. Full disclosure—we walked down the steps into town and took a taxi back up to our hotel. A word about public transportation– there are local ASM city buses, which we took when the schedule was convenient, though no buses ran for several hours in the afternoon, and those run by Interbus (these are blue). Both run regularly and on a schedule. The Interbus goes farther afield than the local bus. Tickets can be purchased on the bus in both cases. Look for the main bus stop just outside the Porta Messina. There is also a taxi stand there.
The views are amazing on the steps between the town of Taormina and Madonna della Rocca. We walked down to town, not up.
If you’ve managed to walk up all those steps, reward yourself with lunch or dinner at Al Saraceno, Via Madonna della Rocca. The food is delicious, well priced and if the weather is nice, the expansive outdoor terrace is open. Again, the views are spectacular. We enjoyed several terrific dinners here.
If you choose to dine at Al Saraceno, make reservations– it’s popular with locals.
Next, we’ll explore a few of Taormina’s beach clubs.
A giant golden sun welcomes visitors to Menfi, Sicily.
You won’t find much in the guidebooks about Menfi and there is a reason for this. It is a small, unremarkable town in the Southwest of Sicily with no major tourist attractions but there are several excellent reasons to put it on your itinerary. First off, Menfi is a great base for day trips to Selinunte, Segesta, Erice, Marsala, Trapani and other nearby destinations–there is a lot to explore in this part of Sicily. Second, is that is the Planeta family, known for their highly regarded Sicilian wines, has a lovely, small hotel called La Foresteria located just a few kilometers outside of town. This peaceful oasis is between Menfi and Porto Palo, a small seaside community with beautiful, pristine beaches–more on that later.
Welcome to La Foresteria.
Planeta’s La Foresteria is surrounded by beautiful countryside which leads to the sea.
La Foresteria has simple, well-appointed and comfortable rooms. Ours, named Timo (thyme), had a large bed, small sitting area, ample closet space and a bathroom with a double shower and very nice toiletries. The room also had a mini fridge and a safe. Depending on location, each of the 14 rooms has either a patio or balcony with views out over the vineyards and fields to the sea—very tranquil. Besides birdsong, the only other sounds you’re likely to hear are distant tractors working the land. It is an oasis of tranquility.
We had a typical room at La Foresteria– large, comfortable, simple but well appointed.
Rooms have views from their terraces or patios across the fields and on to the sea.
There is a gorgeous infinity pool if you’re up for a swim or for just lounging around and enjoying a sunset cocktail. The hotel has plenty of comfortable public spaces to relax and read, chat or enjoy the peace and quiet. There is also a small gym on the property.
The inviting pool at La Planeta’s La Foresteria, near Menfi, Sicily.
La Foresteria’s pool is the perfect place to enjoy the sunset and a cocktail.
During the summer season through September, La Foresteria has a private beach club for guests. Friends have given it good reviews and really enjoyed the onsite massage service and lunch but both of our visits have been in October, after the beach club was closed. The weather was still perfect though, and the hotel provided us with beach chairs, towels and umbrellas to use at the nearby beaches.
The beaches in nearby Porto Palo are among the cleanest and most pristine in all of Europe and proudly sport the blue flags awarded by the EU Foundation for Environmental Education proclaiming this. We practically had the beach to ourselves and the water was crystal clear and gloriously warm. Take some time off from touring to relax by the sea.
The area near Menfi is known for its beautiful and pristine beaches.
Another reason to stay at La Foresteria is the incredible cuisine prepared by Chef Angelo Pumilia. He takes full advantage of the fresh seafood and abundant vegetables from the area. The menu, which changes seasonally, features classic Sicilian dishes and while we were there, a number of crudos—raw fish dishes that were all excellent, along with artfully prepared pasta and meat courses.
Dinner is served on the terrace during warmer months. Here Chef Angelo welcomes us back to La Foresteria.
Everything we ate, and we each had three courses most nights, was superb. During our two stays (12 nights) we sampled most items on the menu– swordfish, prawns, mullet, chick pea soup, linguine with sardines, ricotta and mint ravioli, different lamb, beef and pork preparations– all were delicious– but Chef Angelo’s couscous was especially outstanding.
Chef Angelo’s spectacular couscous includes both raw and cooked fish.
The local seafood is prominently featured on the menu…
…and artfully prepared and presented.
Guests may choose from several prix fix options or order a la carte. Whichever choice you make, save room for his sublime desserts. The olive oil ice cream and the Cerasuolo di Vittoria (wine) ice cream were my favorites.
Cerasuolo ice cream makes a perfect dessert.
As expected, the reasonably priced wine list is heavily populated with Planeta offerings, but other producers’ wines are available as well. La Foresteria’s knowledgeable staff will gladly guide you.
Planeta wines dominate the wine list, naturally, but other producers are represented as well.
Breakfast is a lovely affair with a bountiful buffet featuring fresh fruits, cheeses, hams, hard cooked eggs, pastries, cakes, juices, coffee drinks, and tea– all enjoyed on the expansive terrace.
Guests choose their breakfast favorites. Coffee drinks are made to order and served at the table.
This table doubles as the communal dining table for dinner during cooler weather.
Both breakfast and dinner were served outside on the patio on our last visit—a fine way to enjoy the great views and warm weather. On our first stay, only breakfast was available on the patio. Dinner was served inside at a large communal table, which was very convivial, and a great way to meet other guests. We made new friends from Italy, France, Belgium, England, Japan and New Zealand.
Guests enjoy breakfast and beautiful views on La Foresteria’s terrace.
While guests have priority for dining room seating, in the morning you should let the front desk staff know if you plan to dine at La Foresteria that evening. I would also recommend booking if you plan to enjoy dinner the evening you arrive. You wouldn’t want to miss out on Chef Angelo’s outstanding cuisine!
The talented and personable Chef Angelo Pumilia presides over La Foresteria’s kitchen.
If you’d like to learn more about Sicilian cuisine, the hotel offers cooking classes with Chef Angelo. Our schedule couldn’t accommodate a full class so we opted for a “Chat with the Chef” one evening for an hour before dinner. We enjoyed a wonderful conversation in the kitchen with Chef amid the hustle and bustle of the evening’s dinner preparation. The front desk will arrange either of these options for you as well as a visit to Planteta’s nearby wine estate. We had an informative tour, terrific wine tasting and a delicious lunch with Chiara Planeta. It was a memorable afternoon, which ended with a relaxing dip in the pool and a well-deserved nap.
A quiet moment at Da Vittoria, before the lunch crowd.
If you choose to dine off property, try Da Vittoria. This local favorite is less than a 10- minute drive from La Foresteria and is right on the beach. The restaurant specializes in seafood and whole fish dishes in particular. We enjoyed some wonderful pasta dishes including shrimp and pistachios, a red mullet pasta and other equally good seafood pasta combos. Our least favorite was the house pasta combination. The grilled fish was simply prepared but so fresh and delicious —the swordfish in particular.
The excellent shrimp and pistachio pasta at Da Vittoria.
Simple but delicious fishcakes made from local catch.
Mandrossa’s Fiano was a perfect accompaniment to our lunch.
The portions are huge at Da Vittoria. Do not be shy about sharing—just say, “Uno per duo, per favore!” We had several lunches and dinners here and enjoyed the food, the view and the people watching each time. Even though the restaurant is quite large it fills up, so do book in for lunch or dinner.
Heroic hunting scenes, chariot races, beautiful birds, wild beasts, cherubs, mythical sea creatures, even girls in bikinis—are all here at Villa Romana del Casale depicted in mosaics so vibrant that they almost come to life.
One of the polychrome floor mosaics at Villa Romana del Casale, near Piazza Armerina, Sicily.
Almost in the dead center of Sicily, about 5 km southwest of the town of Piazza Armerina, Villa Romana del Casale is home to the largest, best preserved and most exquisite Roman mosaics anywhere in the world. You won’t come upon these splendid ruins by chance and it is well worth a side trip to see them. We chose to visit the Villa Romana del Casale on our way from Taormina to La Planteta’s La Foresteria near Menfi. You may be scratching your head if you’re looking at a map right now, but for our purposes and itinerary, it seemed the best time to go. It was a very long drive to get here but it was worth it.
The African animals depicted in the mosaics at Villa Romana del Casale show the far reaches of the Roman Empire.
Protected as a UNESCO site since 1997, the Villa was likely constructed in the 4th century, possibly for a Roman senator. The structure was built upon a more rustic villa dating between the 1st and 3rd centuries AD. The exacting detail illustrating dress, hairstyle and even footwear, shown in the mosaics’ depictions of daily life, as well as those more fantastical scenes, helped archeologists date the villa’s construction.
Villa Romana del Casale was probably built 4th centuries AD atop an older structure.
The mosaics are so well preserved primarily because they were covered in a mudslide in the 12th century and remained buried until excavations began in the 1950s. Once subject to the elements, the ruins are now covered and walkways connect the four buildings at different elevations, allowing visitors to view many of the intricate mosaic floors from above and at ground level. Various rooms including private apartments, baths, and courtyards are open for viewing. Different themes and mosaic motifs indicate who was most likely to inhabit or use the rooms: adults, children, servants, or guests.
Extensive ruins at Villa Romana del Casale, near Pizza Armerina, Sicily.
Villa Romana del Casale was not at all crowded when we were there in October, but if the enormous car parks and tour bus lots are any indication of the number of visitors that arrive during the busy summer months, beware. Try to go early or late in the day to avoid the crowds and the heat. Please visit the Villa’s website www.villaromanadelcasale.it for updated ticket prices and hours of operation, as well as for downloadable visitor’s guides in English, French and Italian.
Whenever you go, you’ll be rewarded with a glimpse into Imperial Roman daily life, and fantastic flights of fancy, as you view this incredible record of the past preserved in the form of magnificent mosaics.
Note: If you go to see the villa, have a delicious lunch or dinner at nearby AlFogher. We had a lovely multi -course lunch before our visit to the villa. We were told Al Fogher was one of the best restaurants in the area but was not at all busy when we were there. Book a table to be sure you get one if you travel during the high season. There was a cafeteria onsite at the Villa Romana but it was not particularly inviting and most of it was closed—likely because we visited off-season. We were happy to have a cold drink there though. It can get very hot, even in October, in Sicily and the day of our visit was no exception.
You’ll see them long before you reach them– bright white, gleaming brilliantly in the Sicilian sun as they rise from the blue Mediterranean–the Scala dei Turchi or Turkish Steps. If you’re in the area of Agrigento, home to Valle dei Templi– some of Sicily’s best known and most visited Greek ruins, head a few miles west towards Realmonte and Porte Empedocle and explore one of Southern Sicily’s most breathtaking natural wonders.
When we visited, people were able to climb the Scala dei Turchi near Porte Empedocle, Sicily.
Follow the brown informational road signs and you’ll wind up at a car park just across from the beach. It can be tricky to find so pay close attention. Walk past the beach club and restaurant and hike along the beach. The trail is fairly rocky, marshy and wet, of course. There are nicer swimming beaches in the area, but you won’t find anything like the Turkish Steps anywhere else.
The gleaming white steps of the Scala dei Turchi beckon from the beach.
As you walk through grassy wetlands, and along the beach, shimmering in the distance you’ll see the spectacular step formation known as Scala dei Turchi rising from the sea.
Consider aquasocks or similar footwear as the beach is quite rocky.
The Turkish Steps, as they are popularly referred to, are truly a sight to behold. Formed by sedimentary rock, this gleaming white staircase leads up to spectacular cliffs that rise up from the blue Mediterranean. The site got its name from the stair-like shape of the rock formation and also because it was a favorite landing place for pirates and the invading Moors.
Visitors used to climb the Turkish Steps but this is no longer permitted.
The rock is fairly soft and many visitors have carved their names, initials and paeans to love in the steps. We do not encourage this.
Unfortunately, visitors have carved messages in the soft rock in many languages. Please don’t.
We visited the Scala dei Turchi on a beautiful warm October afternoon and while we were certainly not alone, the site was not terribly crowded. That is not the case during the summertime, we’ve been told. We were also warned that parking is at a premium in the summer months.
Enjoy the views from the overlook above the Scala dei Turchi. It is not possible to climb them any more.
The crashing waves of Mediterranean Sea far below– breathtaking.
You may also choose to park above the steps and walk down to the top, where there is an overlook, instead of hiking along the beach. This is a shorter and less challenging way to go but you’ll miss the great views that the beach walk affords.
Visitors used to relax and enjoy the view from the top of the Turkish Steps.
The naturally created troughs at the top of Scala dei Turchi drew many looking for a place to relax, sunbathe and enjoy the magnificent Mediterranean Sea– this is no longer permitted. Enjoy views of the steps and the Sicilian sunset from the beach or overlook above before heading back to your hotel!
UPDATE– The Turkish Steps are now protected and it is not permitted to climb them. I have revised the post to reflect that, though when I wrote this piece and took the photos, it was allowed. Enjoy this natural wonder from the beach below or the scenic overlook above, but please stay off the steps.
I’m not much of a motorcycle aficionado myself, but I have been married to one for enough years to recognize the distinctive sound of a Ducati from a distance. On our recent trip to California’s Monterey Peninsula, we drove up to Carmel Valley to indulge in some wine tasting and discovered the Moto Talbott Collection. My husband’s delight quickly faded when he saw the motorcycle museum was closed, but fate smiled once again when founder Robb Talbott appeared in the courtyard.
Moto Talbott is a “must see” for motorcycle aficionados.
We had a nice chat, but Mr. Talbott was off to an appointment so no chance for a sneak peek behind the gates that day. We left with the promise to return later that week; my husband clutching the newly printed brochure Robb had kindly given him.
Rare, vintage, award- winning and beautifully restored motorcycles, all with stories to tell, await visitors to Moto Talbott.
Bright and early that Friday morning, we returned to Moto Talbott. In the courtyard were the museum’s newest acquisitions—two BMW Isetta 300s. Originally produced in Italy in the 1950s, Issetas are known as micro cars or “cabin scooters.” These two had been languishing in a hayloft in a Northern California barn for more than 40 years. Robb had picked them up just the night before.
These Isseta micro cars had just arrived after languishing in a hayloft for 40 years.
The Moto Talbott Collection opened in November 2016 and has been attracting motorcycle fans from all over the world ever since. The collection is mostly motorcycles (more than 170 of them) but also features scooters, vintage transportation- themed toys, motorcycle memorabilia and more. The bikes are artfully displayed in a 6,000 square foot building with walls of snow barrier board trucked in from Wyoming and constructed by hand. Every detail has been carefully thought through.
This BMW is handsomely displayed against a handcrafted wall of Wyoming snow barrier board.
There are some real gems in the collection, including the Ducati Marianna that won the very last Motogira D’Italia in 1956 and is credited with saving the Ducati Company from possible closure. There’s a terrific photo of the wining rider, Guiliano Maoggi, with a cigarette clenched in his teeth on the wall above the bike, along with the fascinating story of his victory.
Visitors can learn about the last Motogiro d’Italia and the winning Ducati’s intriguing victory tale.
Steve McQueen’s 1931 VL Harley is there, as is a demonstration bike from WWII with the gas tank and engine covering cut away so soldiers training on it could learn what went where. This particular bike, which is quite a rare find, came to the collection complete with troop movement maps, gloves and a fully- functioning Thompson sub-machine gun, which has since been rendered inoperable.
Every bike has a fascinating story and a great deal of history behind it, including this rare WWII demo bike.
There’s a Vespa specially designed to promote Coach’s leather goods, a motorcycle that was buried in the backyard to protect it from certain destruction in a fire, race and award winners, beautiful restorations, trial bikes, rare and vintage motorcycles—they’re all here.
Each Coach logo was carefully hand painted on this promotional Vespa.
What really makes a trip to Moto Talbott special is the opportunity to learn the history and stories behind these bikes from the engaging and knowledgeable docents. We were fortunate to spend the morning with Rich Watson, former Economics professor at UC Santa Barbara and a lifelong lover of motorcycles. Rich could not have been more informative and entertaining. We were captivated by the intriguing tales he told, from his description of riders being impaled by enormous splinters during the American board racing days of the early 1900s to stories of unbeatable BSAs.
Engaging docents like Rich Watson enrich the visitor’s experience by sharing the stories and history behind the bikes.
These Indians from the early 1900s were used for American board racing– an extremely dangerous form of motorcycle racing not permitted for decades.
The impressive collection currently features road bikes and dirt bikes from 16 countries, from the Czech Republic to Mexico. MV Agusta, BSA, Bultaco, BMW, Indian, Harley Davidson, Kawaski, Maico, Gilera, Triumph, Honda—nearly every notable motorcycle company is represented here.
Road bikes and dirt bikes from around the globe are part of the collection at Moto Talbott.
The “Riders for Health” motorcycle under the orange vest traveled more than 80,000 kms bringing health care and aid to those in need in Zimbabwe.
The former proprietor of the highly regarded Talbott Vineyards and chairman of the board of the eponymous clothing company his family founded, Robb Talbott’s commitment to excellence and quality is as apparent in the Moto Talbott Collection as it was in his previous endeavors. The museum was at least three years in the making and was created so that he could “…share his passion for bikes and beauty… And mostly to share the stories of these bikes and their history.” The museum’s mission statement rings especially true after talking with Robb—”preservation, restoration and education…all driven by passion.”
Some of founder Robb Talbott’s vintage toys are displayed here.
We also had the chance to meet Bobby Weindorf, the museum’s curator and chief restorer. Motorcycles have been part of Bobby’s life since he was 12 years old. His career was built on his passion: five years with American Honda’s factory road race and Supercross/Motocross teams; a dealership in Santa Barbara for 10 years, and several years in Italy working with motorcycle race teams. When asked about his three favorite bikes in the collection, he chose the 1977 MV Agusta 850SS because, “It’s big, powerful and makes a bold Italian statement,” a 1977 Hodaka Super Combat Wombat, “…cute dirt bike with an awesome name,” and a 1965 BMW R 69S in Granada Red, for it’s “pure elegance in a rare color…”
Moto Talbott is dedicated to preservation, restoration and education–and doing a spectacular job in all three area.
Bobby noted that Moto Talbott will continue to evolve: expanding and changing the collection, offering events, and continuing to educate visitors, preserve the “survivors,” and restore the classic motorcycles that he and the others involved in this marvelous museum have worked so tirelessly to make accessible to motorcycle lovers from around the world.
Update–The museum has been temporarily closed due to Covid-19. For more information click here.
The first thing I do when I arrive at Gleneden Beach, a hamlet on Oregon’s Central Coast, is take a deep breath. The clean, crisp air is an intoxicating combination of briny ocean and the refreshing scent of the pines that line the craggy shoreline. In early Spring there are no crowds.
There also aren’t any luxury hotels or fancy restaurants, but the natural beauty of the place draws us back with its tranquility, miles of pristine beaches, wooded hiking trails, a lighthouse or two, and small towns that are somewhere between charming and touristy. So what is there to do? Let’s start with the whales!
Gray whales put on an impressive show off Oregon’s Central Coast in early Spring.
Whale Watching Season
The gray whales begin their 10,000-mile migration between Baja California and the Bering Sea in the late winter months and March is prime viewing season on Oregon’s Central Coast. Weighing in at about 35 tons and averaging around 45 feet in length, thousands of gray whales–20,000 of them according to some sources– pass by Oregon’s coastal communities in early spring through June.
Some estimates have 20,000 gray whales passing Oregon’s coastal communities during their annual migration.
It’s exhilarating to see these amazing animals breach and spyhop so close to shore. We learned that spyhopping is when whales raise their heads vertically out of the water to get a better sense of their surroundings. They often do this when tour boats are nearby—maybe they like to see us as much as we enjoy seeing them.
Boiler Bay is a prime spot for whale watching.
Depoe Bay, the self-proclaimed whale watching capital of Oregon, and nearby Boiler Bay are premium locations for catching the show these leviathans put on at this time of year.
Bring your binoculars and see how many species of whale, dolphins and porpoises you can spot.
Besides gray whales, marine life aficionados with a sharp eye or a good pair of binoculars may spot orcas, sperm whales, dolphins, porpoises, and even blue whales cavorting in the waves.
The Depoe Bay Whale Watching Center is closed now but watch for the reopening.
The Depoe Bay Whale Watching Center was closed for construction in March while we were there, but we visited last year and saw plenty of whales and sea life from both the outdoor and indoor viewing platforms. It was great to come in out of the rain and still watch the whales go by. Helpful staff told us that during the busy summer months, around 100 of these majestic creatures live in the waters right off Depoe Bay.
The Whale Watching Center has indoor and outdoor viewing platforms and a terrific location for spotting these leviathans of the deep. Rangers and volunteers are on hand to answer questions about marine life, seabirds and the region’s many scenic areas.
Volunteers can usually be found at 24 coastal sites marked by Whale Watching Spoken Here signs, charting the whales’ migration and noting the numbers of sea mammals and birds spotted during their watch. Docents will not be at their stations and viewing equipment will be unavailable this year due to the public health crisis. Check out whale watching videos at oregonstateparks.org.
Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area and Lighthouse
I think there’s something romantic about lighthouses and this one is particularly captivating. Perched 162 feet above the churning sea, the Yaquina Head lighthouse is visible from miles away. Standing a majestic 93 feet tall, Oregon’s tallest lighthouse has been guiding mariners to safety since August 20, 1863.
The rugged beauty of the Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area draws 400,00 visitors annually.
Constructed of 370,000 bricks imported from San Francisco, the second oldest lighthouse on the Oregon coast shines its warning beacon from its original 400 lb. Fresnel lens. The lens, then a technical marvel, was built in Paris and transported through the Panama Canal to what was then called Cape Foulweather—for good reasons.
The rocky shoals below the Yaquina Head lighthouse became the final resting place for many ships and sailors.
Many ships foundered on the rocky shoals off Yaquina Head before the lighthouse was operational. Look for the memorial to those lost at sea at the base of the lighthouse.
The path between the lighthouse and Interpretive Center boasts beautiful vistas and educational information.
Stop by the Interpretive Center before hiking down the path to the lighthouse and tidal pools. There is a wealth of information and knowledgeable rangers available to help you make the most of your visit.
Come to the Interpretive Center for information that will help you make the most of your visit. Admission to the center is free. There is a fee to enter the park.Films, exhibits, displays and helpful staff provide a wealth of information about the lighthouse and the area’s history.
After viewing the short films, photographs, diaries and displays that tell the story of the Yaquina Head lighthouse and the people who kept it running for more than 100 years, it’s not hard to imagine light keepers going up and down the lighthouse’s 114 steps several times a day carrying 20 lb. buckets of tallow in each hand to keep the lamp lit. Instructions circa 1902 warn that the light must be kept burning at all times and at all costs. Inspectors could arrive unannounced, at any time day or night; to be sure the mandate was kept. Life could be hard and lonely. It wasn’t until 1966 that Yaquina Head’s light was automated and light keepers were no longer needed.
Light keepers climbed these 114 steps several times daily. During summer months ranger-led tours allow visitors to follow in their footsteps. A replica of the 400 lb. Fresnel lens demonstrates how the light was constructed and operates.
There are also films and exhibits about the vibrant marine life and seabirds visitors may encounter. In addition to peregrine falcons, pelagic and double-tufted cormorants, tufted puffins, and storm petrels, Yaquina Head hosts one of the Pacific Northwest’s largest colonies of the common murre, a seabird that tends to gather in large groups and float noisily around. We heard them long before we saw them but what a sight it was!
Common murres are among the many seabirds that call Yaquina Head home. A large colony of the noisy birds floats just right of the rocks in this photo.
Today, more than 400,000 visitors come annually to see the lighthouse and grounds, explore Cobble Beach and the tide pools, watch for whales and dolphins, enjoy the seabirds and visit the interpretive Center. Visitors are free to explore the 100-acre natural area on their own and during summer months, when ranger-guided tours are available, it’s possible to go inside the lighthouse.
Take a hike and enjoy the spectacular views.
Take a hike up the hill behind the former vegetable gardens for fantastic views of the lighthouse and the breathtaking coastline or climb down the wooden stairway to the beach to see anemones and other sea life up close. Or do both, as we did.
Visitors can explore Yaquina Head’s 100-acres at their own pace.
Those with impaired mobility may want to drive to the lighthouse. All areas of the Interpretive Center are accessible.
Pacific Maritime & Heritage Center and Burrows House
Pleasure craft and fishing boats crowd Newport’s busy harbor.
Curiosity and shipwrecks drew us to the Pacific Maritime & Heritage Center, a Lincoln County Historical Society Museum. Walking past Bay Boulevard’s touristy shops across from Newport’s bustling harbor, we saw signs for the museum and were intrigued.
Newport is home to the largest commercial fleet in Oregon.
Chippendale dancers, off-track betting enthusiasts and night clubbers frequented this once stately home before a careful eight-year renovation transformed the Smuggler’s Inn into the Pacific Maritime & Heritage Center. Open since 2013, the museum has a wealth of information on the area’s history, the role of the fishing industry in the region’s growth and the many shipwrecks that have been documented along the rugged Oregon coastline since 1852. Maps, photographs, exhibits and helpful docents bring the past to life here.
Exhibits explore the fishing industry’s impact on the region’s growth and development. Visitors interested in shipwrecks, sea lore and maritime history will find the museum fascinating.
Many of items in the museum’s collections were donated by the local community– from maritime gear to artifacts recovered from shipwrecks. Newport’s sister city, Mombetsu, sent the colorful Japanese fishing flags that fly above the galleries. They are meant to bring luck to the local fishing fleet and are a gesture of good will between the cities. Be sure to step out onto the roof terrace and enjoy the expansive views before you leave!
Burrows House, also a Lincoln County Historical Society Museum, is just a five- minute drive away. The Victorian house began life as a private home, and was used as a boarding house and finally a funeral parlor before becoming part of the museum. Touring the modest dwelling, which was built in 1895, visitors get a good sense of what life was like for Newport residents in the 19th and early 20th century. Don’t miss the eight-foot long toothpick model of the Yaquina Bay Bridge.
Clothing, household goods and memorabilia paint a vivid picture of life here in the late 1800s. This eight-foot replica of the Newport Bridge is constructed entirely from wooden toothpicks.
Hatfield Marine Science Center
Looking for family fun and the chance to spend quality time with an octopus? Oregon State University’s Hatfield Marine Center is just across the bridge from Newport’s busy commercial harbor and definitely worth a visit, particularly if you have young ones in tow. We stopped by on a rainy day and it was easy to see why more than 150,000 people a year are drawn to the dynamic marine education center.
Hatfield’s aquatic exhibits bring out a sense of wonder in visitors of all ages.Touch tanks and interactive exhibits entertain and educate visitors.
The Visitors Center’s aquatic animal exhibits, hands-on experiences, and interactive displays make learning fun. The Center’s resident octopus is a big draw. Visitors can watch him “hunt” for his food, play with his toys and explore his environment. Hatfield has an Octocam, so even after returning home, fans can keep tabs on the popular cephalopod.
Go Exploring
Oregon’s Central Coast has so many beaches, trails, natural wonders and small towns to discover that you can be as busy as you like.
Devil’s Punchbowl is at its best at high tide when the sea really churns.
Take a drive to Devil’s Punchbowl and watch the swirling sea churning up inside the hollow rock formation. Stop in to Cliffside Coffee & Sweets and get an ice cream cone or chocolates while you’re there.
Pristine beaches, trails and parks along Oregon’s Central Coast await. Pack a picnic and go explore! Join the agate hunters on Gleneden Beach at low tide. Tsunami safety instructions are posted on this chunk of harbor that washed up in Newport after crossing the Pacific from Japan. Now it’s part of the bayfront along with shops, tourist attractions and restaurants you can enjoy.
Pack a picnic and head over to Fogerty Creek. Check out the tide pools. Hunt for agates during low tide on Gleneden Beach. Head to Lincoln City and search for the “finders keepers” glass floats or make your own at Lincoln City Glass Center.
Free “finders keepers” glass floats are a 20-year tradition on Lincoln City’s beaches. These are for sale at Lincoln City Glass Center.
Stroll through historic Nye Beach for a little retail therapy and enjoy the sandy beach there. Or just sit and watch for whales.
It’s easy to while away a sunny Spring afternoon just sitting and watching for whales.
Practicalities
Unless you live within driving distance, fly into Portland (PDX), rent a car and drive the 2-1/2 hours to the coast. It’s a scenic drive once you’re past the suburban areas.
You’ll share the road with logging trucks on the scenic coastal road.
There are a few hotels and a lot of rentals and timeshares along Oregon’s Central Coast. We rent a fully- equipped condo and need provisions to make breakfast and picnic lunches when weather allows. Chester’s, a mid-sized grocery between Gleneden Beach and Depoe Bay, has a good selection and all the necessities, plus a video rental on-site. Newport and Lincoln City—the two largest towns in this area– have the chain stores and more shopping options.
We’ve stayed at this Wyndham timeshare in Gleneden Beach several times.
As much as I love to cook, I also like a good dinner (or lunch) out. Our favorite restaurants are:
Tidal Raves Seafood Grill –We spotted nine whales during one dinner at this Depoe Bay mainstay! Portions are generous and full meals include soup or salad so you can probably skip the appetizer.
You can’t beat the sunset view at Tidal Raves in Depoe Bay. The halibut is always a great choice. Dinner specials, like this sturgeon don’t disappoint.
Fish dishes are fresh and delicious– try the halibut or the BBQ shrimp for something a little different. Nightly specials have never disappointed and the steaks are good, too. This place is extremely popular with locals and visitors. Make a reservation.
Side Door Café– There are no ocean views, but there is plenty of ambiance at this local Gleneden Beach favorite. The food is hands down delicious and that’s what keeps people coming back for more.
We’ll take the salmon or halibut any way the kitchen is preparing them. Save room for the house made desserts. They’re divine!
Try the Dungeness crab cakes, or the salmon or halibut – however the kitchen is preparing them. The hazelnut crusted pork and rack of lamb are both outstanding. Save room for the homemade desserts! Reservations are essential.
Local Ocean– It’s all about the fresh fish here–right off the boats from Newport’s busy commercial harbor just across the street.
Fresh fish, often from the fishing boats across the street, make this our Newport favorite. The fish and chips are huge, crispy and delicious. The retail market at Local Ocean has great options for fresh, local fish.
We like the crab cakes, fish and chips, fish tacos, albacore tuna wrap and whatever the daily special is. The burgers are good, too. There are terrific harbor views from the upstairs dining area and bar. Local Ocean has a retail seafood market on the ground floor so you can bring home today’s catch, too.
Red Roof Inn— Follow your nose to this Gleneden favorite. The mouthwatering aroma of fresh baked goods and strong coffee kept us coming back day after day.
Everything here is baked from scratch early in the morning. Robert just took this Irish soda bread out of the oven.
The friendly staff will make you feel like a local and their sandwiches are amazing. Open for breakfast and lunch only.
Kyllos-Big and busy, this Lincoln City restaurant is right on the water and serves continually from lunch on.
We like Happy Hour at Kyllos. The Dungeness crab is a tasty treat.Kyllos fish tacos are good, too!
If you’re lucky enough to get a window seat, the views are spectacular. Happy hour, or lunch in the bar, is the budget- friendly way to go. Try the kale salad and fish tacos.
This is just a sampling of the fun and food that await on Oregon’s beautiful Central Coast. Add it to your list of Springtime get-aways! Or summer get-aways, fall get-aways…
I’m no wine expert but I enjoy drinking it and learning about it. In my thirst for knowledge (couldn’t resist) I’ve been lucky enough to visit wineries and talk to wine makers in many of the world’s most important wine growing regions from the slopes of Sicily’s Mt. Etna to the chalky soil to Champagne and here in California, of course. After visiting Portland regularly for years; we were way overdue for a trip to explore Oregon’s Willamette Valley.
It’s just about an hour drive from downtown to Portland to the heart of the Willamette Valley.
It’s little more than an hour drive from downtown Portland to the heart of the Willamette Valley, Oregon’s largest AVA and home to nearly 600 wineries. As much as I adore a good Pinot Noir, Oregon winemakers are producing other award-winning varietals including Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Riesling and lately, Gamay, as well as those prize- winning Pinots.
There are nearly 600 wineries in the Willamette Valley, Oregon’s largest AVA.
I was as impressed with the wines we tasted as I was with the casual, “walk-ins welcome” vibe at many of the wineries we visited on several recent trips to Oregon’s wine country. Tasting room staff were passionate about the wines they were pouring and eager to share their knowledge everywhere we went.
Knowledgeable staff made wine tasting fun and educational at Saffron Fields Vineyards, shown here, and at the other wineries we visited.
My last visit was just days before the Covid-19 shelter order closed restaurants, bars, hotels, shops, and all those winery tasting rooms. Now that things are slowly reopening, I circled back with some of the wineries we visited to find out what people can expect post -pandemic.
Reservations, masks, social distancing, and contactless payment are some of the differences visitors to this gorgeous wine growing region will notice, but it can still be a wonderful experience.
Things will be different for the foreseeable future for wineries large and small, but all were in agreement with a number of “new normal” requirements: Drop- in visits are largely a thing of the past. Most wineries now require reservations be booked online for timed tastings that will last between 60 and 90 minutes. Masks are mandatory, unless you are seated, and staff will be masked throughout the tasting. Social distancing will be enforced. Most wineries have moved the tasting experience outdoors. Tastings will be staggered to allow thorough cleaning and sanitizing between groups. Menus will be laminated for easy disinfection or single use paper menus will be provided. Hand sanitizer will be readily available. Outside food is no longer allowed at most wineries. Most wineries are using contactless chip readers for purchases i.e. no cash. Everybody is working hard to keep the wine tasting experience safe and fun.
Here’s what I learned from individual wineries I contacted:
Argyle Winery
Let’s start with bubbles. Argyle is Oregon’s premier producer of sparkling wines and they make excellent still wines as well. The award-winning winery has a big, beautiful tasting facility with plenty of outdoor space. Argyle is one of the first wineries you’ll encounter heading west on the 99 from Portland. Plan to stop.
Argyle’s Tasting House is a large comfortable space but for now, wine tastings will be held outdoors. Reservations are required, as they are almost everywhere now.
The Tasting House has re-opened and will welcome groups of eight or fewer by reservation only. Hours are the same as pre-pandemic—Monday-Thursday 11 am-5pm; Friday-Sunday 10 am-5 pm, but less seating is available due to social distancing regulations.
To streamline the wine tasting experience, Argyle is offering two flights—a selection of the varietals they produce, such as Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Riesling, and one that is all sparkling (my favorite). They also offer by-the-glass and half-glass pours. Try the brut rose! Tasting flights are $20-$30 per person.
A wine club member created this low- touch wine flight delivery system using barrel staves. Photo courtesy Argyle Winery.
“We have reduced the flight options in an effort to minimize glassware used, and we have a cool delivery system for the flights that involves a barrel stave that holds the glasses and lets us deliver flights to the table without having to touch them. One of our club members made them. Innovation is everywhere during times like these,” says Argyle’s Cathy Martin.
There’s plenty of room to relax outdoors and enjoy Argyle’s award-winning wines.
“We have had lots of reservations, and everyone seems to be very understanding of the situation. We really wanted to get the process down to make sure visitors felt comfortable and welcome,” adds Cathy.
Argyle also offers curbside pick-up for online wine orders.
Saffron Fields Vineyards
We weren’t familiar with Saffron Fields Vineyards, but it was highly recommended by the concierge at the Atticus Hotel in McMinnville, so we took a drive to Yamhill. We spent a leisurely afternoon at Saffron Fields, enjoying their stunning Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays in one of the loveliest tasting rooms we’d visited. The tasting room is surrounded by Japanese gardens, designed by Hoichi Kurisu, the former director of the acclaimed Japanese Gardens in Portland. Like everywhere else in the valley, the pandemic has caused operational changes at this former dairy farm.
Saffron Field’s tasting room is surrounded by serene Japanese gardens.
Saffron Fields is by appointment only now, wine club members included. Andrea Feero says, “We are pleased to have reopened to the public and are happy to see guests fill our patio once again. Our tasting room hosts are still providing the same warm welcome and hospitality as before.”
“If guests arrive early, they are asked to wait in their vehicle until they are notified that their table is ready. Most tastings will occur outside, but we do have space inside the tasting room if needed or requested. All tastings are seated flights. Additionally, we offer bottle purchases for onsite consumption on the lawn, this is what we are calling our Alfresco Experience on the Lawn. This experience is ideal for 5-10 people,” says Andrea.
Tastings will take place outside at Saffron Fields and reservations are required.
Children and dogs were welcome at Saffron Fields pre-Covid-19, but Andrea adds, “We love both, but I am not sure how we will move forward with this and are taking it as a case by case approach. Regrettably, both open the door to encroachment of the six-foot rule that we are trying to follow.”
A standard tasting is $25, and guests should allow 60-90 minutes. For reservations please contact info@sf.fair.dev or call 503.662.5323.
Hazelfern Cellars
We have friends who are friends with the owners at Hazelfern Cellars, so naturally we planned a visit. We already knew how terrific their Pinot Noir was and were looking forward to trying the current release as well as their Chardonnay. With our reservation confirmed, off to Newberg we went!
We enjoyed our private wine tasting in Hazelfern’s beautiful barn.
Hazelfern has one of the nicest barns I’ve ever seen and that’s where proprietor Laura Laing met us for our private tasting experience. They also have an outdoor tasting area, which uses local hazelnut shells as a ground cover– sustainable, practical and attractive! As expected, we thoroughly enjoyed the wines Laura poured. I checked back with her to see what changes the pandemic has created.
“We’ve always been by reservation, so we have been able to adapt pretty seamlessly. We have been utilizing a reservation system for a number of years now and will continue to do so. This helps us plan and limit the number of people in each group, currently limited to 10 or fewer. We have designated reservation times of 11 am, 1 pm and 3 pm and allow for multiple reservations at a time because luckily, our space is so large. We are not currently accepting walk-ins. Tastings are $25 per person and guests can expect about five wines during the tasting,” Laura says.
“Sadly, we are not facilitating tours or activities that have folks moving about the winery. Hopefully that will be back soon though! We’ve been utilizing both indoor and outdoor seating when weather permits. The tasting itself is about 60 minutes and we ask guests to depart by 90 minutes to allow for deep cleaning between groups.”
Hazelfern has plenty of space for outdoor tastings. The ground cover is local hazelnut shells–sustainable and attractive.
“Overall everyone has been so amazing, respectful, kind and so understanding of the new guidelines as we work to keep everyone safe and stocked up on wine, “ Laura adds.
Oregon is rightly famous for their Pinot Noirs but when you’re ready for a break, head to Remy Winery. Known for their Italian varietals, Remy’s tasting room is in a friendly yellow farmhouse in the Dundee Hills.
Pre-pandemic, we dropped in and had a terrific tasting experience with Hannah, their Hospitality Director. Like many wineries in the valley, Remy is now open for by appointment only, Friday through Monday for groups of six or fewer.
Remy is known for Italian varietals.
“We were always more limited by number due to our small tasting room and bathroom facility. Tasting appointments are staggered so that no more than one party will arrive at one time, with an hour and a half allotted to each tasting. No more than 22 people would be in the process of tasting at one time,” says Remy’s Erin Butler.
Social distance- appropriate barrels are set up around the property to serve as tables for outside wine tasting. Photo courtesy Remy Wines.
All tastings will be conducted outside. Wine barrels are set up throughout the yard, more than 20 feet apart. There are also tasting spots on the covered front porch and at the picnic table. The tasting fee is $20 per person. Barbera, Dolcetto, Lagrein, Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris may be among the wines you’ll be poured.
“We have these cute tasting trays that Hannah’s husband built for us. Four carafes fit in line and are filled according to the number of tasters in the party. Guests pour the wine (1 oz per person) into their own glasses, limiting the number of contacts. The flights (four wines) change each week, with a selection of white, rosé and reds,” Erin adds.
Hospitality Director Hannah Graham (left), and owner Remy Drabkin, show off their new wine flight delivery system, built by Hannah’s husband. Guest will pour from carafes themselves, limiting contact with staff. Photo courtesy Remy Wines.
Remy usually hosts events during the summer months. This year will be different, but the winery is not giving up.
“We are getting creative and really sorting through those things now. The property is large, so we are still moving ahead with two of our al fresco dining experiences. The first is our partnership with Pittsburgh’s Black Radish Kitchen. We had about 10 guests coming from Pittsburgh, and they will now be having their own experience in Pittsburgh with BRK. Locals will still come to the property, and we will be mirroring BRK menu with chefs here (most likely Remy; she’s a great cook!). Rather than one big table, we will be breaking them up into smaller tables,” Erin says.
Remy often hosts outdoor special events during summer months and will continue to do so this year, respecting new public health regulations.
Plans are also underway for the Bounty of Yamhill County dinner, and the Opera on the Lawn. “We’re keeping it fun, creative and safe. One of Remy’s greatest gifts has always been her creativity and can-do attitude,” says Erin.
Remy no longer offers food for purchase or allows outside food to be consumed on site, but they do have “porch pick -up” every day for wines ordered online.
For reservation requests visit wine@remywines.com or 503.412.8387. A $30 deposit will be taken and applied to tasting fees and/or wine purchases, ensuring a no-touch check-out process.
Day Wines at Day Camp
Just before the shutdown, we stopped by Day Camp’s spacious tasting facility and enjoyed Day Wines’ petillant naturalle (sparkling) and Peridot- a 90% syrah and 10% viognier blend, along with her perfect- for- everyday Vin de Days, both blanc and rouge.
Brianne Day’s wines are made from grapes sourced from grower partners with biodynamic and/or organic practices.
Day Camp is now open for tastings Wednesday through Sunday from 11 am-5 pm but reservations are necessary for parties of six people or more. The winery plans to use Open Table for bookings soon. Walk-ins are still welcome.
Day Wines will soon use Open Table for tasting bookings.
“It has definitely been an unusual time for us where we have had to make quite a few adjustments to how we typically run things here at Day Wines. But we are making it work. We’re very fortunate that we have a large patio area, with a lot of covered spots. We have heaters for when the Oregon rain hits, and even an outdoor fireplace for just chilly days. We feel very lucky for that, since we are not doing any tastings in our actual tasting room. Everything is outside now,” says Leyla.
Durant at Red Hill Farms was recommended by our host at Day Wines and was another we dropped by to visit. The estate wines here include Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Rose of Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris. We particularly enjoyed the Pinot Noirs we tried and the Sauv Blanc and Pinot Gris were perfect for the unseasonably hot weather we were having. We were also impressed with the sensational views and expansive grounds, which include beautiful lavender fields, a plant nursery and Oregon’s only commercial olive oil mill.
We dropped in to Durant for a wine tasting prior to the pandemic.
Durant is the only winery I contacted that hasn’t reopened to the public for tastings yet, but they are welcoming back their wine and olive oil club members now.
Erin Rapp explains, “Wine and olive oil club members will need reservations and are limited to groups of six people. There is no tasting fee for members, but the time limit is 90 minutes per group. Tastings are currently available Friday through Monday, outside only, and there is food for purchase that can be consumed on property. Wine is also available for purchase by the bottle for on-site consumption.”
Durant has been operating Oregon’s only commercial olive oil mill since 2008. Tours are complimentary but reservations are required.
Durant’s olive oil mill is open for complimentary tours by reservation only. Guests will soon have the opportunity to enjoy touchless olive oil tastings in the shop, Erin says.
Wine tasting is not yet available to the public, but walking trails, the plant nursery, and the shop are open daily from 11 am to 4 pm.
The plant nursery, shop, grounds, and the walking trail are all open to the public during business hours. The winery offers pick-up at the farm for online purchases, daily from 11 am to 4 pm and they’ll deliver orders of $100 or more to Salem, Portland and Vancouver (WA).
For updated information visit shop.redridgefarms.com or call 503.864.2000 x 2 for curbside service.
Terra Vina
Terra Vina is one of a number of smaller wineries with tasting rooms in historic downtown McMinnville. Guests can taste varietals like Sangiovese, Cabernet Franc, Tempranillo, Merlot, and Petite Verdot. Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Riesling may also be on Terra Vina’s rotation.
Terra Vina’s seating can accommodate groups of up to six. Reservations are required for one-hour seated tastings but walk- Ins are welcome if a table is available.
Terra Vina has taken a number of measures to ensure visitors enjoy their wine tasting safely. “Our tasting room has been reconfigured to allow guests to maintain a safe social distance from other parties. To minimize contact between our team and guests, we will be serving multiple wines in the flight at the same time. We will be using limited contact protocols for all transactions and will only be accepting credit card payment (no cash),” says Carole Dinger.
Terra Vina’s wines are available for sale at their McMinnville tasting room.
Currently, the McMinnville tasting room welcomes guests with reservations Fridays and Saturdays from 12-6pm and Sundays from 12-4pm. Tastings are $15 per person. Their Wilsonville vineyard tasting room will be open the second and fourth Saturday of the month from 12-6 pm. Vineyard tours will not be available until a later date. Lawn seating will be available for bottle/glass consumption.
Summing It All Up
Things are changing day by day. Check in with the wineries you plan to visit. Be patient– everyone is doing their best to deliver a safe and fun experience!
Here’s the pandemic playbook–Wear your mask, wash your hands, respect social distancing, and be sure to check with individual wineries for reservations and updates before heading out for a tasting. Please be patient. In these fast-changing times, everyone’s doing the best they can. Cheers!
PS If you’d like some practical information on where to stay, eat and play in Oregon’s Wine Country click here.
