Family Fun

Tips for Better Summer Travel Abroad

This summer is shaping up to be a record breaker with more Americans than ever heading to Europe and other foreign locales. We can’t help with the heat, weather, and crowds vying to take a toll on your summer fun, but these practical tips will help you get organized, take some of the stress out of overseas travel, and hopefully make your summer adventures better!

Check Your Documents

*Make sure your passport is valid six months from your return date or renew it now!*

You already have a passport if you’re planning on leaving the U.S. this summer, (please say yes) but is it up to date? Will it still be valid six months from your scheduled return date? If not, renew it today and be prepared to pay to expedite this. If you’ve waited until the busy summer season, it is going to take longer to process. Visit the US State Department to get all the information you’ll need.

Are You a Trusted Traveler?

Save time and stress at the airport. If you haven’t already, sign up for TSA Precheck, Global Entry and/or CLEAR to expedite travel. Some credit cards, like American Express Platinum, will cover the fees for these programs which range from $77.95 for Precheck to $100 for Global Entry (includes Precheck) for five years and $189 for CLEAR. You need to have an in-person interview to complete the application process for Global Entry and an in-person appointment for Precheck. Enroll in CLEAR on the spot at certain US airports and check to see if your airport is one of the few with free “security reservations” which allows you to book a time to pass through security lines.

*Save time and stress at the airport– enroll in Trusted Traveler programs!*

Be sure your “known traveler” number is included in all your flight reservations and on your airline loyalty program(s) profile. You are enrolled in those, right?

Back Up Plan

Many people keep digital boarding passes on their phones, but there are instances when WIFI isn’t available, or some glitch causes those boarding passes to disappear. Print your boarding passes, too. If you don’t have a printer at home, use the kiosks in the airport before you go through security.

*Keep photos of all your important documents on your phone.*

Take a photo of your passport and other important documents and keep them on your phone. Make color copies of these documents, too. Keep one set with you and leave one at home or with a trusted friend or neighbor. This will come in handy if your passport is lost or stolen. Having a copy with us made replacing my husband’s passport much simpler when it was stolen in London.

*London is a fascinating city but getting a passport stolen there wasn’t fun. If this happens to you, file a police report before you go to the US Embassy.*

If you have replacement photos taken for your new passport abroad, be sure to get them correctly sized to meet US passport requirements. Most European countries use a different size than we do. We had to go back for photos a second time, which was costly and time consuming.

*Sometimes GPS doesn’t work. Bring paper maps, just in case!*

We use Google Maps everywhere. GPS is usually reliable, but there have been instances when it is not, or we cannot access the maps we thought we downloaded. The time we were looking for our friend’s winery outside Lisbon and wound up facing down a tractor barreling towards us down a dirt tract GPS sent us on is one of many examples. Bring paper maps as a backup.

Amazon and American Automobile Association (AAA) are good sources. We like the detailed Michelin maps which show even the smallest backroads. Be sure to pack a car charger and a phone holder along with those maps!

Get the App

*Download the apps for all the airlines you’ll fly on your trip before you leave home.*

Driving?

If you really want to explore a country and have the most flexibility in your travels, you’ll need a car. You won’t have to adhere to train schedules and can go where ever you like, no matter how far off-the-beaten path your wanderlust takes you.

*To really enjoy the Tuscan countryside, you’ll need a car.*

Driving in the EU is not that different from driving in the US. Roads are well-signed and in good shape in most places. If you’ll be driving in Europe, and many other places overseas, you’ll need an International Driver’s License, also called an International Driver’s Permit (IDP).

*Most overseas locations require an IDP. Get one before you leave home.*

You can get one at your local American Automobile Association (AAA). Download and complete the form at home and bring it, your state- issued driving license and the $20.00 fee with you. You can have your photos taken at AAA. They’re the same size as passport photos. The IDP must be issued in the US before travel and cannot be obtained more than six months before departure.

Book Your Rental Car Early

*For best pricing and options, if you want an automatic for example, book your car early.*

Book your rental car when you book your air tickets and hotels. Chances are good that you will get a much better deal, the earlier you book. I also double check prices several times including right before we leave town just to be sure there aren’t any last-minute deals. I do the same with hotels. We have had good luck with Auto Slash —a consolidator for all the major car rental companies, and you can still accrue your loyalty points when you book through them. Sign up for price drop notifications.

*Check for damage and photograph your rental car before you drive off.*

Be sure to examine your rental car carefully and report any and all damage no matter how minor. Take photos on your phone before you drive off. We recently had a situation in Naples where they blamed us for damage to the rim of one wheel and forced us to pay for it before we could catch our plane to Sicily. We had taken photos beforehand and are currently trying to resolve the situation.

Car Services

Another option is a point-to-point car service, like Daytrip, which we used to get from Vienna to Budapest. We had already turned in our rental car since we knew we wouldn’t need it in Vienna or our next and final stop, Budapest. We learned Budapest’s main train station was closed for construction and our plan to take the train would require a train, a bus and a taxi and a lot more time than we had anticipated. Instead, we opted for Daytrip, and enjoyed a very comfortable, door-to-door ride in a Mercedes van. We booked online and found the trip cost about a third of what our hotel quoted for the car service they used.

Take the Train

Train travel in Europe is efficient, often faster than driving, and extremely convenient if you plan to spend your time in cities. I wished we had turned in our car after our drive from Evora in Portugal to Seville since we only used the car to get from one city to another in Andalusia. We would have saved time and money taking the train from Seville to Granada then on to Cordoba and Madrid. If you’re going to be exploring the countryside or small towns, like Panzano in Tuscany, you’ll need a car but in this case, we didn’t.

Download the apps for any rail lines you plan to use on your trip. I keep TrenItalia and Italo Treno on my phone because I frequently travel in Italy. It’s easy to check schedules, compare prices, book your tickets and select your seats on the app.

*Easy to use self-service kiosks are available for rail lines in the station.*

Most European countries have their own rail line– SNCF in France, Deutschbahn in Germany, Renfe in Spain, for example. Use their apps. You can also buy your tickets at the station at self-serve kiosks or at the ticket office, but be aware that popular routes during busy times, like summer holidays, sell out. If your timing is not flexible, get your tickets in advance. AAA also sells some rail tickets, like EuroRail passes, if you aren’t comfortable using your phone or handling the transactions in person overseas.

*Pay attention to both the platform and the train’s number.*

Remember to always validate your ticket in the station before you board the train or risk a significant fine. (This is also true for subways.) Keep an eye on the electronic board for both your train’s number and the platform you’ll need. I shared the story of how I wound up in Genoa because I didn’t look at the train’s number and hopped on an express train instead of the local I should have taken for one stop. That adventure took a few extra hours!

Join Hotel Loyalty Programs

Even if you haven’t stayed at a particular hotel brand before and you’re thinking this could be the time to try it, join their loyalty programs ASAP—before you reserve your room if possible. You can start accruing points and perks right away and may even find program members get a discount or a free breakfast beginning with your first stay. Adler Friends is one example where you’ll get an instant discount.

*Being a longtime Marriott Bonvoy member got me an upgrade at Vienna’s Hotel Imperial. There was also birthday cake and champagne waiting for me!*

If you’re a traveler of a certain age, investigate senior discounts. Book into one of Portugal’s Pousadas or Spain’s Paradores –lovely hotels often housed in historic buildings like a former castle, convent or fortress– and if you’re 55 years or older, you’ll save 30 percent on your stay with the Golden Age rate.

It never hurts to ask if you’re eligible for a discount!

Create an Itinerary

Your itinerary should include your flights, hotels, car rental information, train tickets, main points of interest/events (especially those for which you have purchased advance tickets like museums and theater performances), and dinner reservations. Be as complete as possible and include confirmation numbers, addresses, phone numbers and contact information for each.

*First time visitors to Europe will want to see the highlights, like the Trevi Fountain and the Vatican in Rome.* *Include ticket information for the Vatican Museums, which you’ll buy in advance, in your itinerary.*

This simple step will help you get organized and be sure there are no gaps or mistakes in your reservations. In the past, I’ve found overlapping dates and a night with no hotel booked once I’ve put all my reservations together in an itinerary. It is a handy way to share details of your travels with with family, friends, and those nice neighbors keeping an eye on things at home. I like TripIt and use their free product for my travels.

*Take a “nature break” from your touring and visit green spaces like Madrid’s El Retiro Park.*

A detailed itinerary is really helpful to stay organized, but be sure to leave plenty of time for wandering around your chosen destination(s) and making discoveries of your own. Every city has hidden treasures, beautiful parks to explore, and small museums where you won’t fight the crowds. Rome and Paris both have city-run museums that are free to visit and are rarely crowded! Don’t try to see everything– take your time and focus on a few highlights.

Bring the Right Credit Cards

Not all credit card companies and banks need to know your whereabouts abroad but some do and it’s a lot easier to notify them before you leave rather than risk having your cards or ATM card frozen due to fraud concerns. Make a note of all of the cards and contact numbers and keep it in a secure location in the event they are lost or stolen. Get a four or six-digit PIN for each card before you leave home and only bring cards with no foreign transaction fee. These fees can add 3-4% to every purchase you make.

Consider opening a separate travel checking account linked to an ATM card that you can access while you’re away. If the worst happens, your primary accounts won’t be accessible to thieves.

*Leave any credit cards with a foreign transaction fee at home and use your cards for most purchases.*

We were surprised to learn that American Express doesn’t cover your rental car issues in certain countries like Italy, Australia and New Zealand but does pretty much everywhere else. Keep that in mind when you choose which card to use!

Cash is Not King– But You’ll Need Some

*There are certain things you have to pay cash for.*

You don’t need a lot of cash; in fact, you shouldn’t carry much at all. There’s no need with no foreign transaction fee credit cards and ATMs nearly everywhere. We always have a small amount of Euros left at the end of each overseas trip that we stash away for the next one. You can get foreign currency from your local bank but the rate won’t be terrific. Get just enough cash to pay for your taxi or transportation from the airport to your lodging, tip money, and get some coins in case you must pay to use the toilet—not that unusual in Europe.

*The Hungarian Parliament is a “must see” in Budapest. You’ll need Forints to pay to visit.*

On a recent trip from Vienna to Budapest, our Daytrip driver handed us each four Forints when we crossed the Hungarian border explaining we would need it at the rest stop. We had been traveling in Europe for a month and had Euros and dollars with us, but no Hungarian currency. You may also find some restaurants and museums in Europe that only accept cash, but you can stop at an ATM.

Speaking of ATMs, some will try to charge ludicrously high fees. When the prompt comes up asking you to accept the conversion rate, decline. You can complete your transaction paying the bank rate, which is the best choice. When using ATMs be aware of your surroundings, cover the keypad when you insert your PIN, and pocket your cash immediately—just like at home. Try to visit ATMs during busy, daylight hours and watch for pickpockets.

There will be times, particularly at hotels, when you’ll be asked if you want to pay in Euro, for example, or dollars. Always choose the local currency. It will save you money in the form of conversion/transaction fees.

Buy Travel Insurance

*Give yourself peace of mind and get travel insurance.*

No one likes to think that anything unpleasant will happen while they’re off enjoying the world, but things can and do happen –from a cracked windshield in your rental car to a cracked rib and worse. Flights can be delayed for hours or cancelled outright leaving you stranded or missing your cruise. A family emergency may find you scrambling to return home in a hurry. Be prepared for these contingencies with travel insurance.

*Accidents can happen while you’re far from home. Protect yourself!*

We use Allianz and buy an annual policy with extensive coverage as well as providing emergency medical evacuation. Read the terms of the policies you’re considering before signing the contract and find out exactly what your credit cards will cover so you don’t duplicate coverage.

Weather!

You already know summer pretty much everywhere is going to be steamy and there may be some rainy days, too. Bring an umbrella and a light jacket. You can also use the umbrella as a sun parasol, which I often do when hiking through sunbaked ruins in Italy and Greece. Always bring a swimsuit and sturdy, comfortable shoes for the long days of touring, and think light layers when you choose your wardrobe.

Bring clothes you’re comfortable in and that can accommodate an extra pound or two. Don’t even think about bringing flashy jewelry, five pairs of shoes, or a different outfit for every day. Read my packing hacks here.

*Dress conservatively if you are visiting a house of worship or risk being turned away.*

If you’ll be visiting cathedrals and other places of worship, be sure to have a light wrap to cover yourself —bare arms and legs can get you barred from entering. Ladies, please don’t turn up in a skinny mini or shorts and a bra top or guys in a muscle tank and old shorts– you don’t want to miss out.

*An umbrella is also handy for sunny places, like the ancient ruins at Mycenae.*

Think about the activities you have planned and bring what you’ll need to be comfortable doing them. Pack only for a week, no matter how long you’re traveling– you can get the laundry done! Leave all those cosmetic products home in your bathroom and pick up what you need overseas. Remember the liquids rule and only bring containers 3.4 ounces or less of your essentials in a quart- sized clear plastic bag. Questions about what’s allowed? Check with TSA.

Don’t Check Luggage

Airlines are notorious for losing bags especially during the busy summer travel season. If you don’t check a bag, they can’t lose it. Plus, you’ll save valuable time not waiting around the baggage carousel, and money by not paying those hefty, checked baggage fees. Unless you’re traveling with very small children who need lots of extras, you CAN go carry on and when you’re dragging your bag through train stations, over cobbled streets, and up and down stairs in charming little European hotels, you’ll thank me!

The Dreaded Gate Check

Sometimes you will be faced with a gate agent who insists on taking your bag. Maybe the flight is full, and the luggage racks have no space, or they don’t think your bag is small enough to carry on–European rules are different—you’ll have to hand it over. Be prepared for this contingency by always keeping cash, credit cards, travel documents (including any vouchers and tickets), medications, keys, electronics, cameras, jewelry (if you must bring it), eyeglasses, and anything valuable and/or irreplaceable in a tote bag or backpack which are considered “personal items” and can fit under the seat in front of you. Add a change of clothing with fresh socks and underwear and basic toiletries and you’re good to go.

*Some airlines may make you pay to carry even small bags onboard.*

Heavily discounted airlines may not let you bring anything other than a small purse aboard without paying for it. If this is the case, pay for the privilege of carrying- on, as far in advance as possible. Prices go up as departure time nears.

Cancel Deliveries

*You won’t want to worry about deliveries at home..*

If you regularly get a newspaper delivered to your home, get a vacation hold. The Wall Street Journal and the New York Times are among the dailies who will allow you to donate your papers to local schools if you’d prefer that option to having your account credited for days you are away. Be sure to put a hold on your mail delivery, too. The USPS will bring you a big bin with all your held mail when you return.

Try not to order packages that will be delivered in your absence but if you do, let your neighbor know, so nothing is sitting by your front door possibly alerting criminals to your absence. In fact, it’s a great idea to let your neighbors know that you are traveling anyway—they can keep an eye out for any suspicious activity.

Some Final Advice

You’re all set–your carry-on and tote are packed, documents, electronics and chargers/converters easy to access, and you’re leaving for the airport with plenty of time to get through security.

*Eat the gelato, linger in that cafe, take a nap– it’s summer vacation. Enjoy!*

Here’s some final advice before you go: To really enjoy your summer travel adventures abroad, bring your patience, be flexible, and keep your sense of humor sharp. Leave unrealistic expectations behind and be open to new cultural experiences, different cuisines and meeting new people. Don’t try to see and do everything on one trip. Take a nap if you’re tired—its summer vacation! Now go see the world and have some fun!

Cool Summer Fun in Fairbanks, Alaska

Once the “greening” begins, it’s a sure sign that Spring has arrived in Fairbanks and summer is on its way. In the space of a week, trees that have lain dormant and shrubs and wildflowers that have been buried under the snow for months, erupt in a riot of blooms and buds. The time to see the exuberant sky show known as the Northern Lights has passed, but the Midnight Sun will keep things light in our 49^th state until late August. There are plenty of Spring and Summertime activities to keep visitors busy in Alaska’s far northern interior once the snow goes! Here are some suggestions:

Rolling On the River

*A ride on the Riverboat DIscovery III is a great way to learn about Northern Interior Alaska’s history, culture and people.*

Take a ride on the Tanana River aboard the Riverboat Discovery III with Captain Wade Binkley. His grandfather began piloting boats up and down the river decades ago transporting passengers and supplies to those living along this important tributary.

*Riverboats and dog sleds have been the most reliable means of transporting people and goods up and down the river for decades.*

I got a chance to chat with Captain Wade in the wheelhouse and found out he, like his father before him, worked on the Discovery every summer during high school and college, learning the ins and outs of the river and the boats.

*Captain Wade Binkley carries on the tradition began by his grandfather.*

These days, after a hearty lunch in the on-land dining room, tourists queue to climb aboard the big paddle wheel riverboat for an unforgettable trip into Alaskan history. We learned a lot about the region, dog mushing, and native culture on our journey with our group from the North American Travel Journalists Association. We even met some reindeer!

*Domesticated reindeer were introduced to the Seward Peninsula from Siberia in the 1800s to alleviate food shortages. Both male and female reindeer of this species sport antlers.*

As we cruised along, David Monson, husband of the late Susan Butcher, Iditarod champion (four- time winner and only the second woman to win the grueling dog sled race), provided an entertaining and informative sled dog demonstration on the shore while we watched and cheered from the boat.

*Susan Butcher’s legacy lives on at the sled dog kennel she and her husband founded on the banks of the Tanana River.*

He showed off his prize-winning dogs from Trail Breaker Kennel, which he and his late wife established in 1976. We saw first-hand how the older dogs tutor the young ones in the skills they’ll need to succeed as sled dogs. We also learned how important the dogs are for survival in this inhospitable climate where roads are few and far between.

*A visit to Chena Village was a highlight of our riverboat ride.*

We continued along the waterway to an Athabascan Fish Camp called Chena Village. These camps were typically inhabited only during summer months when native Alaskans would fish, hunt and preserve their catch in preparation for the long, hard winter ahead. We learned about the salmon that was a dietary mainstay not just for the people, but their dogs as well, and watched a demonstration showing how salmon is prepared for drying and smoking.

*Docents explain what life was like at traditional Athabascan Fish Camps.*

*Fur trappers built these simple huts for shelter in subzero winter months when most go hunting. Anyone can use the huts but are expected to replace used supplies and firewood for the next inhabitants.*

We also saw a fashion show of sorts featuring the many garments necessary for living in this frigid terrain—moose leather, beaver, caribou and muskrat fur play a key role in traditional Athabascan winter wear. Fur is more a necessity than a fashion statement here, where winter temperatures can hover around -50F.

Athabascans are a subsistence-based culture and put everything to use from salmon skin to the fur and hides of the animals they hunt. While many Athabascans now live in Fairbanks and surrounding areas, and conventional camps have been abandoned in many areas, we were told some families still gather in summer months at fish camps like the one we visited.

*The Tanana River is a 584- mile long tributary of the Yukon River.*

As we enjoyed the scenery on our way back, our captain’s grandmother came out of her home on the riverbank to wave enthusiastically at her grandson, and us. We soon returned to the dock where cocktails and shopping awaited us. We got a good deal on waterproof parkas, which came in handy on our Holland America cruise the following week, while others stocked up on cute and cozy pjs, sweatshirts and other Alaska-themed merchandise.

Cultural Exchange

*Learn about Athabascan culture, local history and habitats, and pick up visitor information at Fairbank’s Morris Thompson Cultural Center.*

Our interest in all things Athabascan was piqued after our riverboat ride and we were excited to learn more at the Morris Thompson Cultural and Visitor Center. We met local artisans who displayed and sold their work, which included jewelry, hand-beaded and embroidered clothing, paintings and handcrafted baskets.

*Athabascan people are known for their intricate beading and embroidery work.*

We also enjoyed a dance performance put on by local tribal members who explained the symbolism of every move and sound we heard. We were treated to the still rare event of having a woman drummer accompany the dancers. We even got to sing and dance along to their ice cream song, which shows and tells how to make the treat arctic style!

*We heard first-hand from native Athabascans about their traditions and were treated to a fantastic musical program.*

The Morris Thompson Cultural Center and Tanana Chiefs Conference partner to provide classes and Athabascan cultural programs to residents and visitors.

Take time to explore the fascinating exhibits at the Morris Thompson Cultural Center.

Admission is free and the center has a wealth of information for visitors, in addition to outstanding exhibitions that explain the area’s history, habitats and cultures.

Cool Cars and Clothes

*Gear heads and vintage fashion fans– head to the Fountainhead Museum.*

If vintage cars and clothing are more your speed, the Fountainhead Auto Museum is a must. We spent several hours ogling the immaculately maintained cars in the museum’s private collection. The vehicles are displayed with period-appropriate clothing, which made it even more interesting—there’s something for both antique auto fans and fashionistas here.

*The 1905 Sheldon Runabout is billed as “the car that love built” and was the first automobile fabricated in Alaska.*

The first car built in Alaska is exhibited here and as the story goes, a young man in Skagway, desperate to win the affections of a certain young woman, thought if he only had a car, he could court her in style and win her affections. His rival was a doctor’s son who had a fancy horse and carriage. Never having seen one, 22-year-old Bobby Sheldon built a car from found items including a discarded wagon, miner’s headlamps, a gas pipe (used for a steering tiller) and ordered a brass horn from Sears & Roebuck. He may not have gotten the girl in the end, but he and his car are memorialized at the museum.

The Fountainhead Auto Museum was founded by Tim Cerny who began his collection with a 1951 Dodge Wayfarer in 1976. The 30,000 square foot museum exhibits 60 vintage vehicles at a time.

*Imagine seeing this classic car cruising around Fairbanks. All the cars in the collection are taken for a spin regularly.*

Every car in the collection is in working order and regularly taken for a jaunt around town. Tim’s wife, Barb Cerny, curates the textile collection which includes garments from the 1700s to the 1930s.

Go North

*The Museum of the North at University of Alaska Fairbanks is a treasure trove of Native art and artifacts.*

The Museum of the North at University of Alaska Fairbanks is a short drive out of town and well-worth the trip. The museum contains one of the most comprehensive collections of arctic and sub-arctic Native American art and artifacts anywhere and tells the story of the people and the land in Alaska’s Northern Interior.

*Sculpture, collage, paintings and more make up the most comprehensive collection of art by Native Arctic and sub-Arctic people anywhere.*

*The bear represents strength, power, courage and leadership and is often depicted in artworks here.*

Art and artifacts, textiles and taxidermy, are all included in the collections that bring to life the rich history of the area’s first people and those who followed. It’s fascinating to see the unbridled creativity this unforgiving but stunningly beautiful environment has generated.

Plan to spend at least several hours perusing the art galleries and natural exhibitions at the Museum of the North.

*Don’t miss “The Place Where You Go to Listen” – a tranquil and transformative experience.*

While you’re here, step inside, “The Place Where You Go to Listen.” It’s a unique experience that allows you to feel the earth move subtly around you, watch the light change and listen to the world.

A Day in Denali

*Denali, at 20,310 feet above sea level, is the highest peak in North America.*

One of the country’s most spectacular National Parks is about a two-hour drive south of Fairbanks or a relaxing train ride away. We took a bus, which had been arranged for our group, to the Park. We learned that Denali is only visible 20 percent of the time, even though the peak rises to 20,310 feet and the base is about 2,000 feet above sea level. We were lucky enough to see it both days we visited the park. Everyone is welcome at Denali National Park, but special permits are required for anyone intending to hike the mountain and transportation via plane must be arranged.

*Denali’s awe-inspiring scenery draws 600,000 visitors annually.*

Our plans were far more modest. After a welcome briefing from US National Park Rangers (who seemed disappointed that no one in our group had packed bear spray or even bear bells as a safety precaution) we hopped aboard one the many free green buses that traverse the park and headed out into the wilderness.

*Hiking in Denali was on my bucket list for years!*

Before departing the Visitor Center our driver gave us a safety lesson that included what to do if you encounter wild life, how to use the radio in case he was incapacitated (it could happen he assured us), and how to access the first aid kit—stark reminders that cell phones don’t work here and you are on your own in this stunning natural environment that is, in fact, home to animals that can kill you.

*A fleet of these green buses take visitors far into the Park.*

We were cautioned to never hit the trails alone, to talk or sing as we hiked so if bears were in the area they would hear us and stay away, and to never approach wild animals, ever! Denali National Park is an incredibly beautiful place but it is a wilderness. I’m happy to report we enjoyed hiking amid the awe-inspiring scenery, singing as we went. We spotted moose from a long way away—and saw no bears!

*Adorable and very friendly, Munchkin is just one of Denali’s hard working sled dogs.*

We also had a chance to see sled dogs up close at Denali. There are regularly scheduled demonstrations where the dogs and the rangers show off their skills. Visitors can meet the dogs before and after the demos. We learned that in summer months, park employees volunteer to take the dogs out for exercise so they’ll stay in shape for their winter work, which includes bringing rangers and equipment far afield in the Park once snow renders the roads impassable.

*The Alaska Railroad is the only one with rooftop observation cars.*

After a busy day exploring the this natural wonder, we enjoyed Gold Star service aboard the Alaska Railroad. Our trip back to Fairbanks included dinner, drinks and an opportunity to enjoy the area’s incredible natural beauty from the only rooftop railway observation cars in the state. It was a glorious ending to what was a bucket list day for me.

Go Play Outside

*Fairbanks has it all–hiking, biking, kayaking, even midnight baseball*!

When summer comes, Fairbanks has plenty of options for fishing, rafting, hiking, and other outdoor activities as well as annual events like the Midnight Sun Run and Midnight Baseball. The Chena Hot Springs get rave reviews at any time of year and a drive or flight to the Arctic Circle is easily arranged. You can also enjoy Christmas year-round at North Pole, just a 20-minute drive from Fairbanks. Visit explorefairbanks.com for more!

*The midnight sun keeps things light in Fairbanks. It was nearly 11 pm when I took this photo in mid-May.*

We thoroughly enjoyed our time in a town that not enough people from “the lower 48” get to experience. Don’t miss out on this fascinating destination!

Fun fact– Fairbanks is one of the best locations in the world to see the Aurora Borealis. To enjoy nature’s spectacular light show, plan to visit between August 21 and April 21. That’s next on my wish list!

The Amazing Earth Pyramids of Renon/Ritten

I have a fear of heights. Standing at the cable car station in Bolzano/Bozen and staring up at the impressive mountain I was about to ascend made me a little queasy, but I hadn’t come all this way to miss out on a hike in the Dolomites. Specifically, a hike to see the earth pyramids of Renon/Ritten.

*The cable car is the fastest and easiest way to reach Soprabolzano/Oberbozen.*

We boarded the red gondola along with a group of young men laden with picnic provisions and camping gear and up we went. I choked back my apprehension and concentrated on the incredible views as we climbed higher and higher up the mountain toward SopraBolzano/Oberbozen.

*The views are exceptional as you ascend the 1221 meters to the mountaintop.*

It’s possible to take a bus or drive up the steep switchbacks to reach the town, but the cable car is much faster and easier. It departs every four minutes and takes less than 15 minutes to reach the top– 1221 meters above Bolzano/Bozen.

*Hikers and campers shared our gondola for the 15-minute ride.*

The cable car deposits you right across the street from the historic narrow- gauge Renon/Ritten Railroad. Be sure to buy a round trip combo ticket for the cable car and the railroad when you purchase your ticket at the Bolzano/Bozen station.

*The historic railroad has been carrying passengers since 1907.*

Trains run every 30 minutes during peak daytime hours. Climb aboard and enjoy the mountain views on the 20-minute ride from SopraBolzano/Oberbozen to Collalbo/Klobenstein. We passed farms, cows, hikers and traditional Alpine A-frame homes as we whizzed by to the end of the line.

*We zipped along through the beautiful Alpine countryside enjoying the views.*

It’s a short walk from the station through a residential neighborhood to the center of Collalbo/ Klobenstein where lunch can be had a several restaurants. Most seemed to offer the same traditional South Tyrol dishes but the two we had our eye on were closing shortly and wouldn’t seat us.

*The path from the train station into Collalbo/Klobenstein goes through a residential area.*

It’s a pleasant stroll from the train station and fun to see all the carefully tended gardens along the way.

*One of the gardens we passed was creatively decorated with gnomes and a Disney princess.*

It was disappointing to be turned away from several restaurants because we arrived too close to the kitchen closing, but we kept searching!

*Sleek Zentral was a welcome sight for these hungry travelers.*

We were directed to Zentral by a harried hostess and off we went in search of sustenance. We were not disappointed and were soon tucking into a perfectly prepared weiner schnitzel and a tasty mushroom and polenta dish. We had a crisp local white wine with the meal and finished up with some house made gelato.

*Crisp, perfectly prepared weiner schnitzel was just right for lunch.*

Menus in the Sud Tirol usually feature Austrian and Italian influenced dishes and are always seasonal.

*A medley of local mushrooms atop polenta was outstanding.*

Save room for dessert! Cakes and gelato are always on offer.

There is a mix of Austrian and Italian influences in this autonomous area of Italy, which was a part of Austria until the end of World War I. German is the predominant and preferred language in the Sud Tirol, though signage and menus are generally printed in German, Italian and sometimes English. You’ll find many people speak English, particularly in hotels, shops and restaurants here.

*Signs indicate directions and show how long it will take to reach your destination.*

After a satisfying lunch we headed off towards our destination—Longomoso/Lengmoos and the earth pyramids of Renon/Ritten. It’s an easy 30-minute hike from town to see these natural wonders, said to be Europe’s highest and most perfectly shaped examples of the boulder- topped pillars.

*It’s an easy 30- minute hike to the earth pyramids.*

Paths are well-marked and part of the way to the earth pyramids is paved.

*Signs in German and Italian point the way.*

The views just get better and better as you continue your hike!

*The earth pyramids at Renon/Ritten are 25,000 years old.*

Called erdpyramiden in German or piramidi di terra in Italian, the conical pillars were formed 25,000 years ago from the moraine clay soil left behind when the last of the Ice Age glaciers covering the Valle d’Isarco melted away. It takes thousands of years for earth pyramids to form and the process is a dynamic one.

*These earth pyramids are said to be the highest and most perfectly shaped in Europe.*

In dry weather, the soil is rock hard, but rain softens the earth and carries away the soil. The rocks left behind in the mud protect the clay soil beneath them, which rises from the earth to form the pyramids—capped by the boulders that allowed them to develop. As older earth pyramids collapse, new ones form. They really are spectacular to see!

*New pillars are formed as the older ones collapse.*

These are some of the most impressive earth pyramids in the world and some of the oldest!

*The boulders capping the pyramids protect them and allow them to develop.*

At the end of the trail from Collalbo/Klobenstein, there is a large viewing platform with panoramic vistas over the valley to the earth pyramids in the nearby gorge, with maps and helpful information in German, Italian and English. We were lucky to have the platform to ourselves much of the time, though during busy summer months the popular site draws crowds.

Keep going– enjoy the views and pose for a silly picture at the top.

Many natural sites in this area have maps that include highlights of the area and give a sense of place.

*Informational signs are in German, Italian and English at this popular site.*

After enjoying the sensational view of the earth pyramids for quite some time, we began the hike back. We came upon the Café Erdpyramiden along the way.

*We were happy to find the cafe open as there are no services or facilities near the viewing platform.*

The cafe is a handy stop since there are no facilities at the viewing platform or along the trail to reach it.

*Stop in for coffee, cold drinks, snacks and local wine.*

It’s a great place to enjoy the view, have a drink and a snack and use the facilities!

*Bring your drink out on the back terrace and enjoy a last look at the earth pyramids.*

A pleasant stroll back past historic buildings, churches, homes, a pond and grazing cows took us back to town and the train station.

*It’s a beautiful walk through the countryside to and from the earth pyramids.*

Enjoy the walk back– it’s an easy trek.

*It’s hard to get lost with signage everywhere!*

Our timing was perfect and five minutes later we were chugging along toward home.

*Trains run every 30 minutes during peak hours and we timed our return perfectly.*

We wandered around SopraBolzano/Oberbozen, admiring the views and checking out lodging for a future trip before heading back down to Bolzano/Bozen on the cable car.

*The comfortable lobby at Gloriette Guesthouse. Love the baby buggy bar.*

We popped in the the Gloriette Guesthouse to check it out for a return visit to the area.

*We had a nice wander around the town of Soprabolzano/Oberbozen before heading to the cable car.*

*Making our descent into the center of Bolzano/Bozen after a wonderful day in the Dolomites.*

We will definitely return to this spectacular area and its natural wonders and suggest you add it to your list, too. In the meantime you can enjoy the virtual view here.

An Afternoon with Otzi the Iceman

He’s an international man of mystery, media darling, and a murder victim. Otzi the Iceman was brutally killed about 5,300 years ago and is the oldest known natural human mummy in Europe. A German couple hiking the Otzal Alps discovered his body on September 19, 1991 on a glacier in Italy about 100 meters across the Austrian border — thus his nickname. We spent an afternoon with Otzi, not far from his birthplace in the Dolomites.

*Otzi’s final resting place is the South Tyrol Museum of Archeology in Bolzano Bozen, not far from where he was born and where his body was discovered 5,300 years later.*

After a brief custody dispute— both Austria and Italy laid claim to Otzi–research on his mummified body began at Innsbruck University in Austria. He has found a final resting place at Italy’s South Tyrol Museum of Archeology in Bolzano Bozen. Today, the entire museum is dedicated to Otzi and life in the Copper Age. Visitors can peek through a small glass window to view Otzi’s body, which is kept in a climate controlled, sealed vault. Be patient, there is always a line to see him.

*Otzi’s body is preserved in a viewable, climate- controlled vault but signage asks visitors to be respectful and refrain from photographing his remains. This acrylic model is provided for photos.*

*Scientists have created a remarkably life-like reconstruction of Otzi, one of the world’s most fascinating murder victims and Europe’s oldest natural human mummy.*

A 3-D reconstruction gives a surprisingly lifelike depiction of what Otzi would have looked like. He was believed to be 45 years old when he met his untimely death. At 5’3’’ and 110 lbs., he was short and stocky, but muscular. He wasn’t in the pink of health when his life was cut short, though. He had tooth decay, parasites and H. pylori, which would have caused numerous gastric issues. Scientists were able to retrieve and identify the contents of his stomach which included his last meal—red deer meat, unleavened bread and fruit and an herb called hop hornbeam. He likely took that to ease his tummy troubles. His hair had high levels of arsenic and copper particles, possibly from smelting copper, which may also have contributed to his ill health. None of these things killed him though.

*Otzi’s goat hide leggings, bearskin hat, and other garments were remarkably well preserved after 5,300 years entombed in a glacier.*

*Otzi’s leggings would have extended into his shoes for warmth and protection from the snow and rain.*

The garments and accessories Otzi was wearing when he met his demise were remarkably well preserved by his years of glacial entombment. His lambskin loincloth, goat hide coat and leggings, and bearskin hat are all on exhibit, along with what remains of his shoes with their cow hide laces. His shoes are really something to see- made from bearskin soles, deer hide uppers and tree bark netting, they were lined with grasses that acted like socks and cushioned his feet for the long treks he made through the mountains.

*Bearskin, deerskin, tree bark netting and hay-like grasses went into the construction of his shoes. Here you can see the structural foundation as well as what remains of his well worn shoes.*

Even his deerskin quiver and arrows survive. Because of the variety of animal skins used in his clothing and accessories, researchers believe that Otzi kept and herded domesticated animals like sheep, goats and cows, earlier than was previously thought.

*Scientists discovered blood, not his own, on Otzi’s goat skin coat, adding to the mystery around his murder.*

He also had a grass cape with him, either to wear as a raincoat or to sleep upon—or maybe both. Displays show how all of his garments fit together to protect him from the elements—pretty complicated!

*Drawings indicate how Otzi would have dressed. Fitting each item together was a lot more complicated than you’d imagine.*

Otzi liked ink! He is in the Guinness Book of World Records for being the oldest person on earth to sport tattoos. His body is adorned with 61 of them made by rubbing charcoal dust into fresh wounds. These are certainly not the elaborate tattoos seen today—they’re mostly crosses and lines on his back, ribs, wrist and legs and may have been used for pain relief.

*The copper head on Otzi’s axe came from far-away Tuscany, which meant he traveled widely or traded or both.*

Researchers have been able to piece together a great deal about the life and times of Otzi the Iceman based on his clothing and the items found alongside him. He had a copper-bladed axe, which would have made him a high-status individual. The copper was from Tuscany, quite a distance away, so he traveled or traded or both. He also had a flint dagger from the Lake Garda area, arrows, incomplete shafts and longbow, plus a net. Otzi was a hunter.

*The articles found near his body give us great insights into Otzi’s lifestyle and activities. A backpack frame, shown here, was one of many personal belongings discovered with him in 1991.*

He had several wooden tools used to fashion clothes or utensils—he would have needed these to make repairs or construct needed items on his long treks. He also had a birch bark cylinder likely used to carry hot embers for quickly starting a cook fire and a complex fire-starting kit. These would have been handy on his journeys for cooking and for warmth. Otzi has shown us that people travelled more widely than previously believed during the Copper Age, trading goods, services and knowledge.

*Visitors can examine Otzi’s clothing, weapons, even the contents of his last meal, and learn what scientists have finally determined was his cause of death.*

Researchers know what the iceman wore and ate and likely what he did for a living, but mystery surrounded his murder until 2012. Was he struck in the head with a blunt object? Stabbed? Shot in the back with an arrow? Was there a fight? Or all of these things? Scrappy Otzi was definitely a hunter and a fighter. Blood from four different individuals was found on Otzi’s dagger, coat and on one of his arrows which could mean a battle. He had several broken ribs that had healed before death, and he had been struck in the head. His brain had evidence of clots which could have been from blunt force trauma that then caused stroke or embolism. He also had stab wounds on his hands. The likeliest cause of death was the arrow lodged in his left shoulder. Finally, in 2012, researchers agreed that Otzi had bled to death from the arrow wound.

*Otzi and the mysteries surrounding him have made him a popular media subject across the globe.*

Otzi’s discovery made quite a stir worldwide and was also marked by controversy. Once the significance of the find was reported, numerous people claimed to have found the body. The museum has an exhibit detailing much of the media coverage around him. Otzi is so scientifically important; the museum has a specific evacuation plan for him should a crisis arise that could damage him. He has opened a window into life in the Copper Age that would have remained closed, had those hikers not stumbled upon him back in 1991.

*Helmut and Erika Simon, a German couple, were credited with finding Otzi’s body on the Tisenjoss Pass, just over the Austrian border in Italy, while hiking in the Otzel Alps.*

In 2012 Otzi’s genome was sequenced using a bit of his hip bone, revealing he had brown eyes, type O blood, a predisposition to heart disease, was lactose intolerant, and may have had Lyme disease. His maternal line is extinct, but his paternal lineage is intact. In 2013, 19 Austrian men from a group of 3,700 tested, shared a unique genetic mutation with Otzi. Scientists believe that his descendants would have settled between the Dolomites and Sardinia— his genetic profile has much in common with Sardinians today —and that there are likely more of them alive today.

Our afternoon with Otzi was fascinating and we’d highly recommend a visit if you’re in the Bolzano Bozen area. For more information, click here.

Listen to the World at Phoenix’s Musical Instrument Museum

If “Music is the language of the soul,” the Musical Instrument Museum speaks it fluently. The MIM, as it’s known, is home to more than 8,000 musical instruments from every country on the planet and calls itself the world’s only global music museum.

*Musical instruments from every country on earth are displayed at the MIM, sometimes along with ceremonial costumes, like this one from the Mongol people of Ulaanbaatar.*

Wonder what a theremin sounds like or even what it is? Put on your headset and watch and listen as virtuoso Clara Rockmore brings this custom-built instrument to life, moving her hands between two antennae to control pitch and volume. You’ll learn the history behind the instrument, the artist, and even see what she wore as she toured the USA with major symphonic orchestras in the 1930s.

*I’d never heard of a theremin before my visit to the MIM! Now I’ve had the chance to see, hear and even play one!*

The MIM’s interactive technology instantly syncs your headset to any video screen you stand before, allowing guests to see, hear and experience instruments we may never have even heard of, let alone seen and heard being played!

*Move your hands between two antennae to control pitch and volume on the theremin. There’s one in the Experience Gallery for visitors to try!*

Throughout the museum, thousands of instruments– historic, rare and sometimes common place– are displayed along with clothing, costumes, cultural artifacts, maps, and most importantly, information that gives perspective to the ceremonies, rituals and the role in everyday life the instruments play. The videos that accompany each exhibition take visitors on a musical journey to countries and cultures around the world and sometimes, back in time.

*Headphones sync automatically with videos as you walk through the museum.Watch and listen as Kukeri- costumed dancers chase away evil spirits with their jangling bells in Bulgaria*.

*Visit Ireland and hear the Chieftains, the country’s “Musical Ambassadors,” perform traditional Irish music.*

We started our visit at the MIM’s special exhibition, Treasures: Legendary Musical Instruments. Rare, historically significant and stunningly beautiful instruments from around the world, spanning thousands of years of musical history, are on display along with videos that allow you to hear these incredible instruments being played.

*Where else will you see and hear an ancient Greek trumpet that may be the only one of its kind still in existence*?

Nowhere else will you experience the sounds and sight of a Salpinx, an ancient Greek trumpet (300 BCE-200 CE) believed to be the only one of its kind still in existence! You’ll see and hear renowned musician Jake Shimabakuro play a Kumu tenor ukulele handcrafted of Koa wood, mahogany, mother-of pearl, ebony, turquoise, abalone and onyx, built specifically for him. View fragments of a 4,500-year-old lyre from Ur, Mesopotamia (modern day Iraq), along with the oldest intact guitar on earth, and Jimi Hendrix’s iconic Black Widow guitar.

*The oldest intact guitar in the world is at the MIM along with Jimi Hendrix’s famous Black Widow*, *shown below.*

*Anthropomorphic harps from the Ngandi people of the Central African Republic are among the rare instruments in the **Treasures** exhibition and are a part of the MIM’s permanent collection.*

The collection includes a 1584 harpsichord from Belgium made from wood, bird quill, iron, felt, paper and paint, and anthropomorphic harps from the Ngandi people of the Central African Republic (1850-1875). There are fiddles, mandolins, drums, bells, lutes, and flutes– some shown being played by world-class musicians. In the center of it all is a spectacular bronze-gilded grand piano built by the Erard Company in Paris for the 1889 Exposition Universelle, where the Eiffel Tower was introduced to the world.

*This splendid piano was unveiled at the 1889 Exposition Universelle in Paris at the same time as the Eiffel Tower.*

Next door to Treasures, the Artist Gallery features musicians from nearly every genre you can think of from hip hop to country. Missed Woodstock? The MIM has it covered with instruments, costumes, memorabilia and video of that epic event thanks to donations by people who performed there including Carlos Santana, Joan Baez and John Sebastian.

*Memorabilia, musical instruments and concert performances by numerous artists who played the iconic festival help capture the spirit of Woodstock.*

*I saw the legendary drummer performing at New York City’s Rainbow Room many years ago though I don’t know if Buddy was playing this particular set of drums*.

The white, marine pearl Swingerland drum set the legendary Buddy Rich played many times on The Tonight Show hosted by Johnny Carson (also a drummer by the way) is here. So is the Steinway piano John Lennon composed Imagine on and the guitar Eric Clapton used to record Layla. Country music fans will find the Chet Atkin’s Signature electric archtop guitar donated by Duane Eddy and hear Glen Campbell strumming, singing and playing the bagpipes, via video at the MIM.

Photos, video, drums, even Tito Puente’s dazzling jacket are here along with one of the “Queen of Salsa” Celia Cruz’s gorgeous stage dresses and maracas. Cruz, a five-time Grammy -award winner sometimes performed and recorded with Puente.

Elvis Presley, Dick Dale, Black Eyed Peas, Johnny Cash and Maroon 5 are just a few of the artists sharing the spotlight in this enormous gallery which rotates its 40 exhibitions to include music icons from around the world.

*The King is among the legendary performers in the Artists Gallery, of course*!

In the Mechanical Music Gallery, the MIM has treasures ranging from intricate music boxes to player pianos to my personal favorite, the orchestrion named Apollonia. Built in 1926 in Antwerp, she is 25 feet wide, seven feet tall and weighs two tons. After retiring from a career touring the dance halls of Europe, Apollonia was refurbished in 1950 and found her way to the USA. Now she entertains MIM’s visitors daily at noon and 3 p.m. How extraordinary to experience the same music played on identical instruments audiences enjoyed nearly one hundred years ago!

*Apollonian entertains visitors daily at noon and 3 p.m. Don’t miss a chance to hear this performance!*

*Intricate music boxes, dancing puppets, player pianos and more fill the Mechanical Music Gallery.*

Upstairs, in the Geographic Galleries, you’ll tour the world through music—the bridge that connects us all. Start in Africa, where human civilization began, and wind your way through the continent from Angola to Zimbabwe.

*Start your journey in Africa, where human civilization began and prepared to be amazed at the sheer variety of instruments played on that continent.*

Stunning stringed instruments, drums, Nigerian bronze bells from the eighth century, an enormous 18- key xylophone from Ghana, Ngoni lutes from Mali, and more held our attention as we traveled from country to country learning about cultures, languages and the music people make a world away from our home. Move on to the Middle East then continue your tour through Asia.

In 17th century Japan, displaced Samuri warriors often became Komuso monks, wandering the countryside playing the shakuhachi. Wearing a basket over their head signified detachment from the material world.

*Take a musical journey through every country in the world at the MIM. Just about every instrument imaginable– is here in one gallery or another!*

*No area of the globe is left unexplored -even instruments from the subarctic are here!*

Cross the seas to Oceania and Latin America. Experience Europe’s musical treasures–opera, ballet and orchestral instruments and performances– and finally, explore genres from country to classical to jazz and even marching band music in North America. Who knew Elkhart, Indiana played such a significant role in our musical history?

This 48K Grand Jumbo sousaphone (left) was manufactured in Elkhart, IN, the home of most American band instrument companies. Master engraver Julian Stenberg created this for a nationwide promotional tour for the C.G. Conn company’s 50th anniversary.

Personally, I was astounded to see how musical instruments traveled and evolved across borders and through time. We saw bagpipes in one form or another, made from materials ranging from fabric to animal skin, not only from Scotland, but also Tunisia, Croatia, Slovakia, France, Spain, Romania and Sweden.

*Above are bagpipes from Tulum, Turkey while the instrument below is from the Iranian* *province of Hormozgan.*

Though closely associated with the Scottish Highlands, bagpipes have been around for 2,000 years and may have originated in Turkey, according to the MIM.

*Bagpipes may have originated in Turkey more than 2,000 years ago.* *This display shows wind, string and percussion instruments from Turkey’s countryside and urban areas.*

Don’t leave the MIM before stopping in the Experience Gallery where visitors of all ages are not only invited but encouraged to make their own kind of music.

*The gamelan shown here is displayed in the Geographic Galleries but there is also a gamelan available for visitors to play in the Experience Gallery. Give it a try!*

Drums are found in every country. These Turkish kettle drums from the 1920’s are made from copper covered in camel skin and are part of the **Treasures** exhibit. There’s a huge communal drum for visitors to play in the Experience Gallery.

Bang a gong, play a zither, try your hand at the theremin or Javanese gamelan. Join your friends around the communal drum and make a joyful noise! Express your own ‘Language of the Soul”—after all, that’s what this magnificent museum is all about. Learn more at mim.org.

Note: Treasures: Legendary Musical Instruments was a special exhibition that has closed since I originally posted this article, but the majority of the rare instruments highlighted in the exhibit are part of MIM’s permanent collection and can still be seen and experienced at the museum.

Into the Woods –Bomarzo’s Monster Park

We made our way to Bomarzo’s Monster Park on a beautiful autumn day, early enough that the morning fog still hung over the woods adding a decidedly forbidding atmosphere to the place.

With its strange and beautiful sculptures, eerie wooded pathways and vertigo-inducing tipsy house, I wondered for a moment if Lewis Carroll had taken inspiration from Bomarzo for his Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland.

*The dragon symbolizes time and wisdom, rather than destruction. At Bomarzo, the dragon fights a dog, lion and wolf representing spring, summer and winter.*

While appearing completely contemporary, this unconventional garden near Viterbo, Italy was commissioned by Prince Pier Francesco “Vicino” Orsini in 1552. Known for their balance, order and harmony, classical 16^th century Italian gardens with their careful geometric designs and extravagant water features seemed to celebrate man’s control over nature. Not so, the wild and woodsy Bomarzo.

*Bomarzo’s winding, woodsy paths are full of surprises.*

*The giant jaws of the whale warn visitors away from the water.*

Created by architect Pirro Ligorio in the Mannerist style, this garden is almost a rebellion against order and a tribute to life’s unpredictability. That’s what makes it so much fun to visit.

*Proteus, Neptune’s son, comes from the legend of Glauco, a fisherman who became a sea god.*

Instead of being adjacent to or surrounding the owner’s villa like most gardens of the period, this one flourishes in a nearby wood, nearly hidden from view from the palace above.

*Il Sacro Bosco, the Sacred Wood, is the opposite of the well-ordered classical 16th century Italian garden.*

There is no rhyme or reason to this garden. There doesn’t seem to be a relationship between the sculptures and their placement in the park, though that could have everything to do with the fact that they were all carved from gigantic rocks where the stone stood.

*Statues were carved on-site from stones where they stood.*

Il Sacro Bosco or the Sacred Wood, as the Monster Park is also known, is home to mermaids, sphinx, dragons, nymphs, fountains, a giant tortoise, and a heroic Hercules, among other fantastical sculptures.

*The tortoise symbolizes the feminine powers of water and ancient knowledge.*

Originally the sculptures would have been painted in bright colors. None of that remains today though some pieces are covered in downy green moss. I was slightly disappointed to see the tortoise had recently had her nice coat of soft green moss removed, though she was still a striking figure.

*An elephant carrying a castle was a popular medieval symbol and reference to Hannibal’s use of elephants to invade the Italian peninsula.*

*This elephant, holding a wounded or dead soldier, represents Rome’s victories and defeats.*

Many of the Bomarzo’s sculptures have historical, religious and cultural significance. Some are meant to be puns or puzzles. Others may have had meanings which have long been lost over the nearly 500 years since the garden was created. The brochure we received with our tickets gave explanations for all of the 35 key sculptures, as well as serving as a guide through the park.

*The sleeping nymph, which represents purity in Greek mythology, is both human and divine.*

The Ogre, or L’Orco, king of the underworld, is at the center of the garden and one of the most popular sculptures at Bomarzo. I found a photo of surrealist artist Salvador Dali sitting in the “Mouth of Hell” in 1938! He was so inspired by the Monster Park that he made a short film about the gardens.

*A school group posed in front of the giant sculpture amid much jostling and laughter, clearly enjoying the monsters and whimsical creatures throughout the park.*

The inscription above the entrance says, “Abandon all thought,” a reference, and maybe a tribute, to Dante Alighiere’s Divine Comedy- Inferno, where a warning above the Gates of Hell reads, “Abandon all hope, ye who enter here.” Don’t be put off. Inside the mouth, visitors will find cool respite and a small built- in table and seats. It’s a perfect place for contemplation and perhaps a picnic.

*Just try to walk around inside the Leaning House without losing your balance!*

Another popular stop, the Leaning House doesn’t seem so disorienting until you get inside and try to explore the rooms. There’s not much to see other than the family crest and motto. It is a vertiginous experience at best and not a place to linger—purposefully, scholars think. Some believe that the house represents the falling fortunes of the Orsini family, but nearly 500 years on, the house still stands!

*Proserpina welcomes visitors to the hippodrome area.*

Hiding around every corner or peeking through the trees are heroic and monumental figures. Proserpina, wife of Pluto, stands in for Diana and Juno greeting visitors with open arms. An enormous Hercules—a protector of good, is shown subduing the evil Caucus. Ceres appears with her circle of babies.

*Hercules, protecting the poor, vanquishes Caucus, who stole food from them.*

Neptune towers over the basin, while the open jaws of a whale warn visitors away from the water. Nearby, a giant nymph is both human and divine– a reference to the sleeping Ariadne. There are Furies, a pegasus, dolphins, lions and other mythical and magical creatures throughout the garden.

*The Winged Fury is of Greek origin and also played an important role in Roman religion. The Furies were considered guardians of national glory and the fertility of the soil.*

There are large vases with inscriptions no longer decipherable, benches with messages in Latin, and much more that will surprise and delight around every turn.

*Some of the benches have Latin inscriptions.*

*Scholars think this sculpture represents Bacchus’s descent into hell, goblet in hand. Medusa’s head is carved into the bottom of the giant vase.*

Il Sacro Bosco was created as a memorial to Prince Orsini’s late wife, Guilia Farnese, of the wealthy Farnese family. Their money helped fund the garden, which her broken- hearted husband intended as a manifestation of his grief and a place of shock and surprise.

*Il Sacro Bosco was created as a tribute to Orsini’s late wife, Guilia Farnese.*

A Pegasus in the garden represents Orsini’s in-laws– the Farnese family. The Temple of Eternity was built 20 years after the original garden as a memorial to Guilia and was designed with roses associated with the Orsini family.

*Wander as you like, but if you follow the suggested trail in the park’s brochure you’ll see all of the key sculptures and sights in this fascinating garden.*

Visitors are welcome to wander freely through the paths, but following the trail outlined on the brochure’s itinerary will ensure that you won’t miss a single one of the extraordinary sculptures and sights waiting in the Sacred Wood at Bomarzo. While the traditional gardens of the period we visited– including Villa Farnese, Villa Lante and Villa D’Este–are stunning, Bomarzo is absolutely fascinating. We’ve never experienced anyplace like it!

Porto—Sinners, Saints, Art, and of course, Plenty of Port

Portugal’s second largest city, Porto, or Oporto as the British called it, has a vibrant cultural scene, beautiful churches and a fascinating history, but for many, it’s all about the port.

Port!

Port and port tastings draw visitors from all over the world —after all, the city is named for the fortified wine. All the big port houses are here, along with smaller cellars worth investigating. Just across the river in Vila Nova de Gaia, you’ll find Sandeman, Taylor Fladgate, Grahams, Ferreira, Calem, Croft, Cruz, Ramos Pintos, Kopke, Cockburn and many others. Individual port houses vary in their offerings– there are guided tours, self-guided visits, port tastings, retail shops and several have restaurants on site.

Since there is so much to do in Porto and we had already spent time in the Douro Valley where the grapes for port are grown and the production of the fortified wine occurs, we decided to visit just one port house. We chose Taylor Fladgate because we also wanted to have lunch at Barao de Fladgate. Food is an important part of the travel experience!

Taylor offers a self- guided tour (with audio available in English) and port tastings in the garden afterwards. No reservations are needed for tours but they are required for lunch.

The self-guided tour, which includes a visit to the cellars, was fun and informative.

Visitors learn about the history of the wine, the area it comes from, and port production through photos, a short film and exhibits at Taylor Fladgate.

We thoroughly enjoyed our tour, which covered the history and “how to” of port production, interesting information about the families behind the cellar, and included a short film, static exhibits, photographs, and a cellar visit.

Afterwards we were entertained by a group of peacocks and one very loud, very busy rooster who was clearly in charge, during our tasting in Taylor’s garden. There is also a well-stocked shop on the premises with relative bargains compared to the prices you’ll pay in the U.S. for ports of this quality.

Visitors have numerous choices for their port tasting.

This fellow clearly ruled the roost and let those peacocks know it.

Taylor Fladgate is the only port house we visited in both our visits to Porto, so we can’t give details on the others, though Grahams was also highly recommended. Check with all those you’re interested in for specifics.

Many of the larger port houses have tours and tastings. Check individual websites for updated information and to make reservations where required.

A water taxi goes back and forth from Porto to Vila Novo de Gaia for about 3 euro. It’s a short but pleasant ride and sometimes you can see the local boys jumping off the lower level of the Eiffel Bridge to the river below.

Taking a water taxi is a nice way to cross the Douro after port tasting and exploring Vila Nova de Gaia.

If you are a serious port person or just want to learn more and sample some of Portugal’s best known export, look into a visit at the Douro and Port Wine Institute’s Interpretive Center. A word of warning – port is a high alcohol, fortified wine so taste judiciously.

Museu Serralves– Contemporary Collections

A peek inside the enormous Anish Kapoor installation.

As we said, there’s much more to Porto than port. For contemporary art lovers, the Museu Serralves is a top draw. The museum, which showcases contemporary art from the 1960s through the present, recently celebrated its 30th anniversary. Its vast collection includes more than 4,400 works either owned by the foundation or on long- term loan. Located in a beautiful park-like setting, it’s easy to reach by public transport, cab or Uber.

There are more than 4,400 works of contemporary art in the Museu Serralves’ collections.

Numerous models of famous works by Anish Kapoor, including Cloud Gate, informally known as the Chicago “Bean”, were on exhibit when we visited the museum.

The Incredible Hulk has international appeal.

There was so much to see and experience, we wound up spending almost all day at the Museu Serralves.

Some visitors practiced yoga and danced inside this Kapoor installation.

Museu National Soares dos Reis–– Porto’s First Public Art Museum

The oldest museum and first public art museum in Porto, the Museu National Soares dos Reis has been located in the beautiful 18th century Carrancas Palace since 1940.

“The Presence of History” by Pedro Valdez Cardoso, greets visitors at the Museu National Soares dos Reis. Duct tape and found objects were used to construct the sculpture.

The museum was originally created as a repository for artifacts like these, seized when the government dissolved monasteries throughout Portugal. — A 1934 terracotta sculpture by Canto da Maya is one thousands of pieces on display at Porto’s very first public art museum.

The museum was created as a repository for confiscated property seized when monasteries in Porto and other Portuguese cities, like Coimbra, were dissolved by the government.

The museum was created to house art and other treasures like these, seized when the government dissolved monasteries throughout Portugal.

Ceramics, glassware, textiles and furnishing are among the decorative arts on display here.

The museum’s collections include sculpture, paintings, textiles, furniture, ceramics, jewels and works such as a Roman sarcophagus found in the Alentejo region dating from the 3rd century, an 18th century French tapestry that tells the life story of Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama, and contemporary sculpture by Portuguese artists like Pedro Valdez Cardoso.

Portuguese Centre of Photography

Stories of spycraft, crime and photography converge at the Portuguese Centre of Photography near the Torre dos Clerigos. Yes, there are photo exhibits, but there’s much more in store for visitors here. The building itself, a former prison, is part of the story.

Housed in a former prison, the Centre of Photography includes exhibits about the people once incarcerated here.

Visitors can see cameras of every description including rare daguerreotypes, antique wooden cameras, spy cameras, and even disposable cameras. There are also exhibits about the prison and the people incarcerated within its walls, including political prisoners during the dark days of Salazar’s reign.

The Centre of Photography has special exhibitions as well as a permanent collection for visitors to enjoy.

The museum has revolving photo exhibitions as well as a permanent collection. We saw a fascinating exhibit of photos by and about the artist Frieda Kahlo.

Spy cameras used during Salazar’s tenure are on display along with vintage cameras and much more at the Portuguese Centre of Photography.

Former prison cells now house exhibitions at the Portuguese Centre of Photography.

Clerigos Tower– Torre dos Clerigos

While you’re in the area, consider a visit to the Clerigos Tower–– Torre dos Clerigos. A beautiful example of baroque architecture and a national monument since 1910, the tower offers expansive views of Porto.

Take a tour of this beautiful baroque landmark, a national monument since 1910.

Free or guided tours of this Porto landmark are available.

Se do Porto — The Cathedral of Porto and Churches Worth a Visit

A view of Porto’s Cathedral, or Se, at the top of the Praca da Batalha.

The Catholic Church has a major presence in Portugal and Porto has many marvelous churches filled with exquisite paintings, sculpture and azulejos. Visit the magnificent Porto Cathedral (Se do Porto) located in the Batalha area, the highest point in the city for the art and the views.

Though you’ll often read travel stories where you may be directed to “visit the Se Cathedral”, Se is the Portuguese word for cathedral, like duomo in Italian. Igreja means church. It is free to enter the Se but there is a small fee to visit the tower.

Inside the opulent Se do Porto, resplendent in gold and silver.

The Church of St.Francis or Igreja de Soa Francisco, Igreja do Carmo and the Carmelitas Church right next door, are also worth a visit.

Stop into Porto’s beautiful churches for some quiet reflection and to enjoy the art treasures within.

Located in Porto’s historic center in the building it has occupied since the mid 16^th century, MMIPO, the Museum of the Church of the Misericordia is worth a visit for its paintings, sculpture, religious articles and exhibits that tell the history of Porto’s Holy House of Mercy and the city itself. A visit to the museum includes entry to the church and is the only way to see it.

Porto’s Museum of the Church of Misericordia or Holy House of Mercy includes admission to the church, as well as the opportunity to view the fine art on exhibit.

Shop

If retail therapy is what you’re after, head over to Rua Santa Catarina. Santa Catarina is Porto’s main shopping street and is in the highest part of town, beginning at Praca da Batalha.

You’ll find all the well-known international brands and plenty of smaller, local stores along the busy street, as well as cafes and coffee shops including the famous Majestic Cafe.

The Majestic Cafe, open since 1921, is still a popular spot for coffee or a light meal.

Nearby, you’ll find Porto’s main market —Mercado do Bolhao. This is the place to pick up picnic provisions. If you’re lucky enough to have lodging that includes a kitchen, you can find fresh produce, charcuterie, cheeses, meats, and fish—everything you need to make a marvelous meal.

Sao Bento’s Azulejos

If you arrive in Porto by train and happen to come into the Sao Bento railway station, you’ll be treated to a remarkable display of azulejos – the fabulous blue and white tiles so famous in Portugal. Many people come to the station just to see the tiles, as we did.

The beautiful azulejos at Sao Bento rail station tell the story of Portugal and Porto’s rich history.

Rua da Ribeira Negra– Buskers, Bars and Boat Rides

The Rua da Ribeira Negra area is very busy and touristy but it is fun to walk along the river and enjoy the buskers and people watching. We saw people dancing, making music, and performing magic tricks.

The Rua da Ribeira is a lively area on the riverfront with cafes, bars and buskers.

Buskers sang, danced, performed magic, and blew giant bubbles hoping to collect tips from tourists on the Rua da Ribeira.

Most boat rides on the Douro River depart from Rua da Ribeira. We took an hour- long cruise–it was a nice ride and especially fun on a hot day! We did not book ahead—boats run regularly and there are a number of companies offering the same rides at the same prices. We picked the one leaving the closest to the time we wanted to go.

A boat ride on the Douro was the perfect antidote to a hot summer day.

Pick the river cruise that suits your departure time and length of journey. Most companies offer the same itineraries and rates.

Souvenir vendors line the riverfront. If you’re looking for cork products, tea towels and “typical” Portuguese goods, you’ll find them here.

Souvenir shopping under the Eiffel Bridge in Porto.

Shopping for tea towels for their new life together?

Sleep

Here, as in most cities, there are lodging options for all tastes and budgets. We stayed at the Eurostars Porto Douro just a 10- minute walk along the river to the Rua da Ribeira Negra area. The hotel is comfortable, clean and well- priced. Our large room had a little kitchenette perfect for making a cup of tea or a snack and the view from our balcony of the Eiffel Bridge, the boats and people passing up and down the river was unbeatable.

Our spacious corner room had a fabulous river view from the balcony.

The kitchenette was a nice addition to our room.

Breakfast was included in our rate and offered everything we could want from hot dishes to yogurt, fruit and pastries, including the Portuguese specialty pasteis de nata. The clientele was international and Americans were definitely in the minority here. We met some terrific fellow travelers and the front desk staff couldn’t have been more helpful.

The hotel has a well-priced laundry service (shirts were about 7 Euro), important since we rarely check luggage. There is not a full-service restaurant at the Eurostars but there is a bar serving light fare. There’s also a rooftop terrace with spectacular views and bar service during the summer months.

We enjoyed wonderful views up and down the river from the rooftop terrace at the Eurostars.

We also enjoyed a too-brief stay at the historic Infante Sagres Hotel in the heart of Porto. After an absolutely awful experience with the Rosa Et Al Townhouse’s self-catering apartment on our first visit to Porto, we sought refuge at this magnificent grand dame of a hotel with its lux lobby and beautifully appointed rooms. The elevator has vintage alligator- covered seats so guests can sit and enjoy the ride!

Old world luxury is a hallmark at the Infante Sagres in Porto.

Local Portuguese marble was used floor to ceiling in our spacious bathroom.

A comfortable bed in a blissfully quiet room was just what we needed after a very long day.

We were lucky to get even one night here at the last minute on a sold-out weekend. Somehow the front desk staff managed to book the next four nights for us at the Eurostars. We will always be grateful for their kindness.

The sumptuous breakfast buffet at the Infante Sagres can be enjoyed in the dining room or peaceful courtyard.

Whether port is your preference or art floats your boat, lace up your walking shoes and discover the myriad charms Porto’s winding, cobbled streets have to offer.

Three Scoops: Gelato in Florence

After a long day of touring, or in the middle of a long day of touring, or just because you’re in Italy, in the beautiful city of Florence, you’ll want gelato. Even if it’s wintertime. Avoid the places with the big puffy gelato displays and colors not often seen in nature. Look for signs that say gelateria artigianale, naturale, or biologico. Go for gelaterias that keep the ice cream in stainless containers—covered stainless containers are even better.

Covered stainless steel containers keep gelato fresh and flavorful. Daily flavors will be listed on signs along with prices.

All the available flavors will be written on a sign and you already know what fragola (aka strawberry) looks like. We love that you can choose two or more flavors even for small cones or cups, so experiment with any flavor combination you fancy. Go wild! If someone behind the counter asks, “Panna?” Just say “Si” and your cono will be topped with delicious fresh whipped cream, often at no extra charge. Feel free to indulge.

To make your gelato even more satisfying, say yes to panna montata– fresh whipped cream often offered gratis– free!

In Florence, some say Perche No! www.percheno.firenze.it can’t be beat. This is one of the oldest gelaterias in the city, serving it forth since 1939. It is good, really good, so if you’re in the city center you should definitely stop in for a cone.

Many of the best gelaterias have lines, but they go quickly. It is worth waiting at places like La Carraia.

Often touted as the best in town, La Carraia www.lacarraiagroup.eu , with two shops in Florence, is branching out and opening a store in Rome, too. We like their gelateria on the Altro Arno just over the bridge of the same name. This is a line worth standing on– and there is always a line. They also have scrumptious looking cakes and other tempting confections but we single-mindedly stick to the gelato.

You can choose at least two flavors even on small cones.

It’s hard not to be happy with a cone in your hand.

Our little apartment’s location by the Duomo caused us to walk by Edoardo daily. www.edoardobio.it We don’t resist temptation often or easily so had ample opportunity to sample their delicious gelato. Just grab a number by the door and peruse the list of daily flavors while you inhale the intoxicating aroma of their handmade cones. Don’t worry–the line goes quickly.

Grab a number and enjoy the heady aroma of fresh baked cones while you wait at Edoardo.

This is what delicious looks like. Chocolate with chili (cioccolato con peperoncino) and cinnamon (cannella) are two of my favorite flavors.

Grom www.grom.it was the first of the “all natural” gelato we enjoyed many years ago and it’s still delicious. The company began in Torino and now you’ll find them in cities across Italy, including Florence, and around the world from New York to Jakarta. They even have an outpost in Los Angeles now.

Grom is in cities throughout Italy and worldwide.

Gelato preferences are personal, of course, so go explore. Find your favorites and please share your discoveries with us.

Il Grande Museo del’Opera del Duomo: All About Florence’s Famous Duomo

Florence’s Il Grande Museo del’Opera del Duomo has nothing at all to do with opera. Instead, it is all about the work, or opera, involved in building, preserving and maintaining one of the most recognizable Renaissance buildings in the world—Florence’s Duomo, also known as the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore.

A spectacular view of Brunelleschi’s dome from Caffe La Terrazza.

If you’ve ever wanted to see how Brunelleschi’s magnificent dome was constructed, learn what the other options were for the Duomo’s facade, or see the remarkable art treasures once housed in the cathedral, this is the place to come.

Welcome to the recently reopened and reimagined Museo del’Opera del Duomo.

Soaring galleries give visitors a new perspective on the superb sculpture on display at the museum.

Re-opened in October 2015 after years of restoration and reconstruction, the Museo dell’ Opera del Duomo has an exquisite collection of sculpture, paintings and other masterworks displayed on three floors in 6,000 square meters of exhibit space, all designed to showcase the art to its best visual and historical advantage.

A visitor gets an up close look at a statue in the museum.

Most of the works were at one time in, or outside the Duomo.

These sculptures once graced niches in Giotto’s bell tower.

Some of the treasures to be found include the original North Doors created by Lorenzo Ghiberti for the Baptistry of San Giovanni along with the Doors of Paradise by Lorenzo and Vittorio Ghiberti. Replicas now hang on the Baptistry.

Ghiberti’s stunning Doors of Paradise and North Door once graced the Baptistry of San Giovanni but can now be found inside the museum.

Detail of door.

In all, the museum boasts 750 works of art covering 720 years of history.

Arnolfo di Cambio’s stunning Christ with the Soul of Mary

This exquisite silver alter features scenes from the life of John the Baptist and was created by Lorenzo Ghiberti, Betto di Geri, Bernardo Cennini, Antonio di Salvi, Francesco and Leonardo di Giovanni, Antonio del Pollaiolo and Andrea del Verrocchio.

Michelangelo’s poignant pieta, sculpture by Donatello including his magnificent Mary Magdalene as Penitent, and works by Andrea Pisano, Antonio Pollaiolo, Arnolfo di Cambio and other highly regarded Medieval and Renaissance artists are on display.

Michelangelo sculpted this pieta for his own tomb. He later destroyed it. It was reconstructed and acquired by Cosimo de Medici In 1671 and placed in the Duomo in 1722. It was the next to last sculpture Michelangelo ever created.

Donatello’s Mary Magdalene as Penitent draws many visitors.

Sacred items and iconography are part of the museum’s extensive collection.

In the Cappella Musicale, or music gallery, you will hear enchanting sacred music, and find works by Luca della Robbia and others, as well as rare illuminated music books.

Beautiful music fills this gallery where rare illustrated books, sacred objects and art treasures are displayed.

Brunelleschi’s dome, still considered a marvel of engineering, remains one of Florence’s most iconic monuments.

Models of Brunelleschi’s dome show how it was built and why it remains an engineering marvel.

In addition to the art treasures, the museum contains original building materials, equipment and tools, dating back to the Duomo’s 15^th century construction.

Wooden pulleys, ropes and other original construction equipment used to build the Duomo can be seen at the museum.

Original 15th century tools and equipment used to build the Duomo are displayed near a continuously running film that explores the design and construction.

Also featured are drawings and models of the dome and Giotto’s bell tower, which was begun in 1334, after Giotto’s death. An outdoor terrace offers splendid views of the dome.

Brunelleschi’s wooden model of the dome fascinates visitors.

A detailed model of the bell tower designed by Giotto is on display near beautiful stained glass windows created by notables including Ghiberti, Donatello, Paolo Uccelli and Andrea del Castagno.

Visitors to the museum will learn about the history of this spectacular cathedral, designed by Arnolfo di Cambio and dedicated in 1412. The name Santa Maria del Fiore means St. Mary of the Flowers or Virgin of the Flowers. Once the largest church in all of Europe, today it is third in size, after St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome and London’s St. Paul’s Cathedral.

A film called Courage to Dare about Florence during the Renaissance and the creation and construction of the Duomo runs continuously in the museum.

A number of possibilities considered for the Duomo’s facade are on display, including this one.

Combination tickets can be purchased for the Duomo Museum, the Baptistery, the bell tower and the Crypt of Santa Reparta, named for the 7^th century church that once stood on the site of the Duomo. There is no charge to enter the Duomo, but paid tickets are required for visitors who wish to climb the more than 400 steps to the top of the bell tower.

The Baptistry of San Giovanni always draws crowds. Tickets are required to enter.

Appropriate clothing is essential for entry. In other words, no shorts, short skirts or skimpy, shoulder baring tops on women or men. Bulky bags and backpacks must be checked. Visit www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it for information on ticket prices, hours and tours.

Admission to the Duomo is free but take care to dress appropriately or you will be denied entry.

On our visit, we also had free access to a photographic exhibition called Opera di Viva by Michele Pecchioli, which paid tribute to the hundreds of men and women who have worked to preserve the artistic integrity and cultural heritage of the building and the art works within for more than 700 years.

Michele Pecchioli’s photographs pay tribute to the men and women who restore and preserve the art and cultural heritage of Florence’s iconic Duomo.

The photos feature the restorers, artists, employees and security guards who play a role in safeguarding these treasurers and ensuring public access to the works for years to come. Note: This was a temporary exhibition and may now longer be available for viewing.

A close up of a security guard charged with safeguarding the priceless treasures at the Duomo and its museum.

When the sun begins to set in Florence, head over to Piazzale Michelangelo for another perspective on the Duomo —and enjoy the gorgeous vista across the Arno over the city.

Some of the most spectacular views of Florence can be had from the Piazzale Michelangelo. Don’t miss a visit to the beautiful San Miniato al Monte across the street. It’s the oldest church in Florence, after the Baptistry.

Florence’s Duomo viewed from Piazzale Michelangelo.

The department store La Rinescente has a terrace restaurant with fine views of the Duomo, as well as drinks and light fare.

If you crave an aperitivo with your sunset and Duomo views, go to La Rinascente, the department store on Piazza Repubblica. Go directly up to La Terrazza on the top floor and you’ll find a little rooftop café/bar with great views of the city and the iconic dome. It gets crowded so get there early or be prepared to wait.

Sensational sunset view over the Piazza della Repubblica from Caffe La Terrazza.

Cin Cin!

Florence’s Fantastic Mercato Centrale

Craving a cappucino and a cornetto? Need a bouquet of fresh flowers or picnic provisions? How about fresh pasta to enjoy at home? Or maybe you’re just in the mood for pizza and a beer? Florence’s Central Market or Mercato Centrale Firenze is Florence’s answer to foodie heaven. Housed in a historic building originally erected in 1847, and open from 10 a.m. to midnight, this is the place to go.

Pick up picnic provisions like salami, cheeses, prosciutto and more at Florence’s Mercato Centrale.

Fresh pastas and delicious sauces to go with them make a tasty and quick meal that’s easy to prepare in your vacation rental.

The market on the ground floor is fun to explore with every kind of seasonal produce, pastas, sauces, meats, cheeses, and flowers. Anything you could want that’s fresh and in season is right here.

The Mercato Centrale has a bounty of seasonal produce, herbs and fresh flowers.

Upstairs at the Mercato Centrale is one of our favorite stops for for lunch, though you can also have breakfast, snacks, sweets, drinks and dinner here.

Neapolitan-style pizza is done right at La Pizzeria Sud.

Go get some terrific Neapolitan style pizza at Pizzeria Sud. You can take your slices to one of the communal tables or go upstairs for table service. We opted for the former and enjoyed the hustle and bustle of the place.

Lunch is ready!

There are lots of tasty options– pasta, panini, cheese and meat platters, fish, pizza, even burgers and fried chicken to choose from. There is also a coffee bar, wine, beer, pastries, gelato and delicious desserts–something to please most any palate.

Choose your favorite foods from the array of vendors upstairs at the market and grab a seat at the communal tables. Mangia!

Everything on offer here from the hamburgers made from Chianina beef at La Toraia di Enrico Lagorio, the pasta from Raimondo Mendolia, Maurizio e Poala Rosellini’s fresh fish, the bufala mozzarella, beautiful baked goods, chocolates and gelato are all of the highest quality.

A great selection of fresh or aged cheeses to eat now or enjoy later are readily available.

If you’re looking to really splash out, try these fragrant truffles.

If your tastes run more to fried foods, you’re in luck.

We even sampled the trippa fritta—fried tripe, a Florentine favorite, though not to my taste.

Trippa fritta is a Florentine favorite.

After lunch (or dinner), you’ll probably want coffee and something sweet. Please remember that no self-respecting Italian would even consider ordering a cappuccino, latte or similar milky coffee drink after breakfast hours. Stick to the espresso. Ask for a caffe lungo if you miss your American coffee. Desserts are in abundance here and include gelato, pastries, cookies, and cannoli, which are stuffed while you wait—as they should be. Crushed pistachios on the ends are optional.

These confections look almost too good to eat. Almost…

Upstairs is also where you’ll find Eataly, which features Italian grocery items, household goods, personal care items and my favorite Florentine soaps from Nesti Dante. You’ll also find a wine shop specializing in Chianti Classico selections, a cooking school, a bancomat (ATM) and public restrooms which are in short supply in many cities like Florence.

If you’re looking for Italian wines, particularly those from the Chianti Classico region, you’ve come to the right place.

Students pay rapt attention at the Lorenzo de Medici Cooking School upstairs at the Mercato Centrale.

If you feel the need for yet more shopping, there are also stalls outside the building on the surrounding streets with scarfs, leather items, and souvenirs—all the typical Florentine goods you’d expect to find.

Shoppers can find everything from dry pasta to Pinocchio at the market and stalls outside.

Buon appetito and happy shopping!

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Rolling On the River

Cultural Exchange

Cool Cars and Clothes

Go North

A Day in Denali

Go Play Outside

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