Heroic hunting scenes, chariot races, beautiful birds, wild beasts, cherubs, mythical sea creatures, even girls in bikinis—are all here at Villa Romana del Casale depicted in mosaics so vibrant that they almost come to life.
One of the polychrome floor mosaics at Villa Romana del Casale, near Piazza Armerina, Sicily.
Almost in the dead center of Sicily, about 5 km southwest of the town of Piazza Armerina, Villa Romana del Casale is home to the largest, best preserved and most exquisite Roman mosaics anywhere in the world. You won’t come upon these splendid ruins by chance and it is well worth a side trip to see them. We chose to visit the Villa Romana del Casale on our way from Taormina to La Planteta’s La Foresteria near Menfi. You may be scratching your head if you’re looking at a map right now, but for our purposes and itinerary, it seemed the best time to go. It was a very long drive to get here but it was worth it.
The African animals depicted in the mosaics at Villa Romana del Casale show the far reaches of the Roman Empire.
Protected as a UNESCO site since 1997, the Villa was likely constructed in the 4th century, possibly for a Roman senator. The structure was built upon a more rustic villa dating between the 1st and 3rd centuries AD. The exacting detail illustrating dress, hairstyle and even footwear, shown in the mosaics’ depictions of daily life, as well as those more fantastical scenes, helped archeologists date the villa’s construction.
Villa Romana del Casale was probably built 4th centuries AD atop an older structure.
The mosaics are so well preserved primarily because they were covered in a mudslide in the 12th century and remained buried until excavations began in the 1950s. Once subject to the elements, the ruins are now covered and walkways connect the four buildings at different elevations, allowing visitors to view many of the intricate mosaic floors from above and at ground level. Various rooms including private apartments, baths, and courtyards are open for viewing. Different themes and mosaic motifs indicate who was most likely to inhabit or use the rooms: adults, children, servants, or guests.
Extensive ruins at Villa Romana del Casale, near Pizza Armerina, Sicily.
Villa Romana del Casale was not at all crowded when we were there in October, but if the enormous car parks and tour bus lots are any indication of the number of visitors that arrive during the busy summer months, beware. Try to go early or late in the day to avoid the crowds and the heat. Please visit the Villa’s website www.villaromanadelcasale.it for updated ticket prices and hours of operation, as well as for downloadable visitor’s guides in English, French and Italian.
Whenever you go, you’ll be rewarded with a glimpse into Imperial Roman daily life, and fantastic flights of fancy, as you view this incredible record of the past preserved in the form of magnificent mosaics.
Note: If you go to see the villa, have a delicious lunch or dinner at nearby AlFogher. We had a lovely multi -course lunch before our visit to the villa. We were told Al Fogher was one of the best restaurants in the area but was not at all busy when we were there. Book a table to be sure you get one if you travel during the high season. There was a cafeteria onsite at the Villa Romana but it was not particularly inviting and most of it was closed—likely because we visited off-season. We were happy to have a cold drink there though. It can get very hot, even in October, in Sicily and the day of our visit was no exception.
You’ll see them long before you reach them– bright white, gleaming brilliantly in the Sicilian sun as they rise from the blue Mediterranean–the Scala dei Turchi or Turkish Steps. If you’re in the area of Agrigento, home to Valle dei Templi– some of Sicily’s best known and most visited Greek ruins, head a few miles west towards Realmonte and Porte Empedocle and explore one of Southern Sicily’s most breathtaking natural wonders.
When we visited, people were able to climb the Scala dei Turchi near Porte Empedocle, Sicily.
Follow the brown informational road signs and you’ll wind up at a car park just across from the beach. It can be tricky to find so pay close attention. Walk past the beach club and restaurant and hike along the beach. The trail is fairly rocky, marshy and wet, of course. There are nicer swimming beaches in the area, but you won’t find anything like the Turkish Steps anywhere else.
The gleaming white steps of the Scala dei Turchi beckon from the beach.
As you walk through grassy wetlands, and along the beach, shimmering in the distance you’ll see the spectacular step formation known as Scala dei Turchi rising from the sea.
Consider aquasocks or similar footwear as the beach is quite rocky.
The Turkish Steps, as they are popularly referred to, are truly a sight to behold. Formed by sedimentary rock, this gleaming white staircase leads up to spectacular cliffs that rise up from the blue Mediterranean. The site got its name from the stair-like shape of the rock formation and also because it was a favorite landing place for pirates and the invading Moors.
Visitors used to climb the Turkish Steps but this is no longer permitted.
The rock is fairly soft and many visitors have carved their names, initials and paeans to love in the steps. We do not encourage this.
Unfortunately, visitors have carved messages in the soft rock in many languages. Please don’t.
We visited the Scala dei Turchi on a beautiful warm October afternoon and while we were certainly not alone, the site was not terribly crowded. That is not the case during the summertime, we’ve been told. We were also warned that parking is at a premium in the summer months.
Enjoy the views from the overlook above the Scala dei Turchi. It is not possible to climb them any more.
The crashing waves of Mediterranean Sea far below– breathtaking.
You may also choose to park above the steps and walk down to the top, where there is an overlook, instead of hiking along the beach. This is a shorter and less challenging way to go but you’ll miss the great views that the beach walk affords.
Visitors used to relax and enjoy the view from the top of the Turkish Steps.
The naturally created troughs at the top of Scala dei Turchi drew many looking for a place to relax, sunbathe and enjoy the magnificent Mediterranean Sea– this is no longer permitted. Enjoy views of the steps and the Sicilian sunset from the beach or overlook above before heading back to your hotel!
UPDATE– The Turkish Steps are now protected and it is not permitted to climb them. I have revised the post to reflect that, though when I wrote this piece and took the photos, it was allowed. Enjoy this natural wonder from the beach below or the scenic overlook above, but please stay off the steps.
Note: I’ve chosen to leave this post up as a reminder of what travel was like not that long ago. Let’s hope this experience remains in the rear view mirror!
Remember when we could book an airline ticket, grab our bags and go? Covid has changed how, and even if we travel, for what feels like a long time now. As I prepared for my first international trip in nearly two years last fall, I learned just how different things had become. When I returned to Europe last month, the rules had changed again.
Covid has changed so much about how and even if we can travel.
Vaccination and documentation requirements, for leaving the country and returning, seem to change almost daily both in the USA and abroad. Check government websites for any and all countries you will visit or transit through for updated Covid information. Some countries still require testing, proof of vaccination, and forms that must be completed online before you can board the plane.
We traveled to Italy last fall, transiting through London’s Heathrow airport. We needed proof of a negative Covid test within 72 hours of travel (we scheduled free tests cvs.com), a completed EU locator formeuplf.eu, a UK locator formgov.uk, an Italian Declaration Statementesteri.it, our vaccine card showing at least two doses, and of course, USA passport, before we could obtain our boarding passes. The UK has no restrictions right now, and masks are no longer required there or on planes or airports in the EU. When we went to Portugal and Spain last month we still needed to test to enter Portugal and locator forms were also required. Had we flown into Spain, none of that would have been necessary.
We didn’t realize we needed a UK Locator Form just to pass through Heathrow Airport last fall.All restrictions have been lifted in the UK– for now.
We flew on American Airlines which uses VeriFLY, an app you upload your documents and test results to for easier airport check-in. See if your airline uses one of these services. I wish we had downloaded it before we started our trip– we would’ve known we needed the UK Locator form before we got to the airport, saving time and undue stress as we scrambled to complete the form on our phones before we could check in.
If your airline uses an app like VeriFLY download it– it makes check-in much easier and lets you know exactly which forms you’ll need before you head to the airport.
I strongly suggest you carry paper copies of all of your documentation in case you can’t access digital copies. Not only did we need these to obtain our boarding passes, but also on arrival in the UK, before we boarded our flight to Rome and again when we landed in Rome. We also had to show negative Covid test results, vaccine card and EU locator forms when we checked in to our first hotel in Italy. This spring, we used Verifly again and it made life a lot easier!
Check specific requirements for every country you plan to visit.
Carry your Covid-19 vaccination card at all times. You will be showing it a lot if you’re traveling in an EU country. In Italy we needed our vaccine cards to enter all buildings including museums, shops, restaurants, hotels—nearly everywhere we went. In Spain and Portugal we rarely needed to show it, though we kept it handy just in case.
A clear plastic sleeve will help protect your card. I got ours on amazon.com. At the moment EU citizens and people from 16 other countries can get a digital “green pass” but most Americans cannot ec.europa.eu.
You’ll show your vaccination card at the Green Pass check everywhere you go. Keep it handy!
Bring disposable masks. Mask mandates are changing all the time. They are still required in many places where social distancing is not possible in the EU and other parts of the world. No discussion. No exceptions. Wear your mask if you’re asked to.
Masks may be required in EU countries and many other parts of the world.
Check your documents! Is your passport up to date? And by that, I mean will it be valid six months from your scheduled departure? If not, renew it now and be prepared to pay extra to expedite this if necessary. Everything takes longer in the time of Covid. I just renewed mine. It took six weeks with expedited processing, though the website said it could take up to 11 weeks. For more visit travel.state.gov.
Make copies of yourpassport and leave at least one copy at home with a friend or family member. Keep one with you in a secure location and keep a copy on your phone. This will come in handy if your passport goes missing. Having a color copy helped my husband get a replacement passport in a hurry when his was stolen in London. It also was helpful for the police report he had to file before the new one could be issued. Never pack your passport in a checked bag. When you’ve reached your destination lock it in your hotel safe and carry a color copy. Do not leave it in your room unsecured.
Be sure your passport is valid for six months from your departure date.
Notify your bank and credit card companies that you will be traveling abroad. Nothing will ruin your trip faster than having your credit card frozen because of fraud concerns. Make a note of contact numbers for your cards and keep it in a secure location in case they’re lost or stolen. If you don’t already have a four- digit pin, create one as soon as possible.
We haven’t always been notified when a flight has been delayed or cancelled.Check your travel plans with your airline regularly.
Check in with your airline regularly. Flights are cancelled and changed with shocking frequency these days. Both our outbound and return flights were cancelled, rescheduled, and changed again before we left for Italy. Our return trip from Madrid last month was cancelled the same day we were scheduled to fly and we got a “bonus” day there. Your airline will also have updated Covid information for the countries you’ll be visiting.
Book your rental car ASAP. Rental cars are harder to come by and much more expensive than they used to be. This is true everywhere. The sooner you book the more likely you’ll get what you want and at a better price. Try autoslash.com for price comparisons for the major rental companies.
Coming home can be fraught with anxiety these days as everyone must be tested for Covid before returning to the USA. We are one of the few remaining countries to require this and it is not as easy to organize as it was even last fall. At the moment rapid tests taken within 24-hours of departure are needed. Your hotel can usually book you an appointment. Ours had a nurse come to our room in Madrid to administer the test. If you’re going elsewhere, bring your passport to the testing appointment–you will need it to receive your documentation. We paid 50 Euro each in cash in Madrid for our tests in April. Last year in Rome it was 22 Euro each at a pharmacy. Be aware that some pharmacies do not test on the weekend, appointments are required, and because few countries require tests, not all will provide necessary documentation.
You still need proof of a negative Covid test to return to the USA. Check for current requirements.
Summing it up—Check current requirements for all countries you’ll visit or transit through, as well as testing needs for returning, and make appointments in advance. Keep your vaccination card handy. Be flexible– and very patient. Now go out in the world, be safe, and have fun!
Note– This article was originally written in January 2022 and updated in May 2022.
Happy New Year! In the year ahead we’re looking forward to returning to some of our favorite European cities including Berlin, Florence and Rome. We’re also planning a first time visit to Milan, named #1 travel destination for 2015 by the New York Times.
Florence, Italy
We’ll also be back to Portland, OR, San Francisco, Los Angeles and other U.S. destinations still to be determined.
