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Pizzerias

Florentine Favorites: Where to Eat

Many visitors to Florence seem to be on a quest, trying to squeeze in as much culture as they can in a few short days. Don’t overlook the culinary component of travel. Take a deep breath and spend some real time in this glorious city if you can, and take time out for some superb dining while you’re here.

A quick 10- minute walk from our apartment near the Duomo over the Ponte Santa Trinita brought us to Il Santo Bevitore’s welcoming doors. It seemed like everyone inside was having a great time. We did, too, and put it at the top of our list of Florentine favorites.

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Il Santo Bevitore on the Altro Arno is one of our absolute Florentine favorites.

The comfortable dining rooms (there is a large one, pictured above, and a smaller one just beyond it) are lively and full of happy diners enjoying the excellent cuisine. The atmosphere is casual and warm with just the right amount of buzz.

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You can request an English menu or practice your language skills with the Italian one.

The food is absolutely delicious and the service is attentive and friendly. Some stand outs were the porcini risotto, the pigeon, rombo, and the veal.

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This simple pear and pecorino salad was a perfect starter.

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We always say, “si” to a sformatino– a light, savory custard just right as a first course..

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Il Santo Bevitore’s veal was perfectly prepared.

You can’t go wrong with the pastas, meat or fish—whatever you choose is going to be good. Save room for dessert though.  The chestnut torte and yogurt mousse were both terrific.

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The succulent pigeon is a game bird lover’s delight.

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Fresh fish (rombo in this case), lardons, and potatoes were elegantly plated and beautifully prepared.

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Save room for dessert. This yogurt mousse was spectacular.

We would’ve eaten at Il Santo Bevitore every night, but felt the need to explore some of Florence’s other delightful dining options. Remember, reservations here are a must. Il Santo Bevitore is open for lunch and dinner.

img_3068Try Cucina Torcicoda for lunch or dinner. They have a restaurant, a casual trattoria, and a pizzeria– all in the same building.  When you book in, and you must reserve, let them know which you prefer. They’ll be very different dining experiences but all delicious.

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Torcicoda’s elegant and tranquil dining room.

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Torcicoda’s wine list features fine selections from all over Italy.

We had an excellent dinner in the restaurant. The food was superb and the service attentive.

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This exquisite pork dish was rich and flavorful. The chestnuts gave it a great contrasting texture and crunch.

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Memories of this sensational truffle- topped tenderloin make my mouth water.

The casual trattoria has a different menu from the restaurant’s and it looked good, though we didn’t have time to try it.

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We’ll try the casual trattoria next time.

We ate lunch at Torcicoda’s pizzeria and sampled four different pies. We were especially pleased with the ones topped with fresh buffala mozzarella cheese– gooey and delicious but with a crisp, thin crust–just the way we like our pizza.

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The pizzeria was packed day and night, so be sure to reserve.

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Fresh buffala mozzarella, available on a number of Torcicoda’s pies, upped the yum factor.

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Pizza bianca with sausage and broccoli rabe was another hit.

The pizzeria also has a good-sized outdoor dining area which is open rain or shine. It’s fun to watch the parade of tourists passing by on their way to the beautiful Santa Croce across the piazza, as you enjoy your meal.

img_3368We walked past Konnubio one afternoon at lunchtime and it looked so inviting we decided to go back for dinner.  It was a good choice. The restaurant is casual and lively but the noise level is not over the top.

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Diners were just beginning to arrive when we took this photo. Every table was taken in both dining rooms when we left.

The food was beautifully plated and everything we tried was delicious.

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Seared tuna with fresh asparagus was pleasing to the palate and the eye.

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Tender lamb with caper berries was outstanding.

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Konnubio has an extensive wine list and knowledgeable, helpful waitstaff.

You should reserve a table as we saw only one walk- in party seated, while others were turned away. Sit in the main dining room at one of the tables with the big comfy chairs instead of the side dining room, if you can.

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Cantinetta Antinori is owned and operated by the Antinori wine family and is located in the beautiful Antinori family palazzo right in the center of Florence. We’ve had many delicious lunches here as well as a very good dinner.

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Enjoy fresh baked bread and Tuscan olive oil from Antinori’s estate while you peruse the extensive wine list.

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Thinly sliced artichokes with parmesan cheese was a winner.

The food is typical Florentine cuisine and oriented to the seasons.

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Crispy potatoes topped with filet of white fish, sundried tomatoes, and capers was full of flavor and texture.

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The hearty stewed beef on a bed of polenta is typical Florentine fare.

They have an extensive wine by the glass (or half glass) program so you can sample many of Antinori’s broad line at reasonable prices. It’s fun to try wines you may not see at home.

img_2002Cantinetta Antinori is very popular with local business people especially at lunch, so book a table.

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We discovered Trattoria 13 Gobbi, a cute little place tucked away on a small side street, on one of our meandering walks through this beautiful city.

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The dining room is charming and features plenty of vintage posters, advertisements and more to catch your eye.

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The flavorful vegetable soup was presented in this lovely copper pot.

We plan to give dinner a try there next time.

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Trattoria Cibreo is another one of our lunchtime favorites. We go to the trattoria at Via di Macci 122R, instead of Signore Picchi’s very popular but pricier restaurant, Ristorante Cibreo. The food is terrific and the menu seasonal. Be aware that they don’t serve pasta and they take no reservations at the trattoria. They open for lunch at 12:45 pm and you need to be there early to get a table. People will be lined up and waiting for the doors to open. The trattoria is closed Sundays and Mondays. There’s a tripe truck parked nearby that the always has a line. Snack while you wait?

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While not to my taste, this tripe truck does a great business.

Here are a few other Florentine restaurants we’ve enjoyed over the years: Omero is a wonderful classic Florentine restaurant way up above the town with great views. The food is delicious, the service is attentive and this well-known eatery is extremely popular. Be sure to book in for lunch or dinner.

Il Latini is the place for multi- course and enormous meals. There wasn’t a menu when we went for lunch–they just kept bringing food to the table. It was all good and there was plenty, served family style. The key word here is “basta”! Enough! Tell them how many courses you want before they start bringing it—especially if you don’t want the meat courses.

Del Fagioli means the beans, literally. This is a good, casual family place close to the Uffizi. The owner seemed to know at least half the patrons when we had dinner there some time ago. Corso Tintori 47r telephone for a reservation—they were turning people away. 055244285

There are so many wonderful restaurants, trattorias and pizzerias in Florence you’re bound to find some to fit your taste and budget. Check out the Mercato Centrale for some great casual options and share your favorites with us! Buon appetito!

McMinnville’s Pinots, Pints and UFOs— Oregon’s Wine Country Practicalities

Oregon’s Wine Country is only about an hour drive from downtown Portland, so some people consider it a day trip.  That’s one idea, and we hope they use a designated driver, but we like to settle in for a few days and get to know a place. We talked about visiting the Willamette Valley’s wineries in a recent post. Here’s some practical advice on where to eat, sleep and enjoy the area.

Location, Location

We’ve chosen McMinnville as our wine country base twice. It’s right in the heart of the Willamette Valley AVA with its nearly 600 wineries, there are a plenty of lodging options, and most important, there are a lot of places to eat (and drink), all within walking distance.

Whether you’re interested in a stroll around town to wineries with tasting rooms right in the downtown or you’re more into pints than Pinot Noir, there’s a lot to choose from in McMinnville. Wineries, breweries, coffee shops, a tea house, restaurants, bistros, bars, bakeries, pizzerias and an ice cream parlor line Third Street, the main thoroughfare in this historic town.  There are boutiques, galleries, and shops for souvenirs and necessities.  From May to October—there’s a wonderful Thursday Farmer’s Market with everything from handmade soaps to home baked pies.

Pie really does fix everything!
McMinnville’s Thursday Farmers Market has something for everyone.

McMinnville also hosts annual events like the International Pinot Noir Celebration, Walnut City Music Festival, Turkey Rama, an old-fashioned Starlight Parade to kick off the holiday season and the UFO Festival.  The latter, billed as “the most popular UFO Festival in the world” is on my list. See photos of past events here. For a relatively small town, there’s a lot going on here.

Go ahead. Eat the cupcake.
Work off those calories with a bike ride or a hike.

There’s plenty of hiking, biking, and picnicking to be done, even if there aren’t any events happening.

Hungry?

Whatever your palate or pocketbook, there’s something here to satisfy. What follows is our recommendations– not an exhaustive list of McMinnville’s dining spots.

Thistle

Thistle’s menu reflects the seasons and highlights local growers.

Our hands down favorite for dinner is Thistle, an intimate restaurant just off Third Street. Thistle serves memorable meals with ingredients sourced uber locally.  The menu changes frequently to reflect what’s available seasonally and it’s written on a chalk board; purveyors are listed at the bottom, so you know who grew your food.

We loved everything we tried including this delectable rabbit dish.
Oregon wines dominate the list.

You’ll find starters like Netarts Bay oysters and mains like rockfish with fennel, oxalis, yogurt and fava pods or rabbit with collard greens, turnip and spring onion. The wine list favors Oregon producers and the waitstaff are friendly and helpful. Reservations are necessary. Thistle is a very small space and hugely popular with locals and visitors.  Fun fact—the restaurant was named for the thistle wallpaper the owner spotted when designing the space. 

Red Hills Kitchen

The restaurant is in the Atticus Hotel (more about that later), and like most in McMinnville, focuses on seasonal, locally sourced ingredients.  They tweak classic dishes like Shepard’s Pie using tenderloin of beef.  The meatloaf was delicious and nothing like your mother made, we promise. 

Red Hills Kitchen’s tasty version of Shepard’s Pie.
Try anything cooked in the Josper oven, like this cod.
The Josper oven uses charcoal and imparts a lovely smokey element to dishes.

Red Hills Kitchen has a massive Josper oven that uses the same Thaan charcoal Portland’s Pok Pok uses. It imparts a subtle smoky flavor to the dishes, like the roasted beets, cod, and pork shoulder on the menu when we dined.  Fancy donuts are available at dinner and the bucket of mini donuts can be had at breakfast, lunch and to go. Get some!

Check out Red Hills Kitchen’s Happy Hour.

They have a solid wine list with plenty of local wines to choose from and a fun cocktail list.  Red Hills Kitchen also has a Happy Hour with drink and food specials.  We had dinner twice in as many nights here in March.

Red Hills Market is our go-to for sandwiches and picnic provisions.

Red Hills Market in nearby Dundee, which is affiliated with the Red Hills Kitchen, is our go-to for sandwiches and picnic supplies.  They also make wood-fired pizza, but it wasn’t available on our visits.

In addition to good food, you can pick up some fun gifts or souvenirs.

They’ve got cheeses, baked goods, and fancy foods, plus tea towels, coffee mugs and other kitchen-related items that make great gifts or souvenirs.  The Market is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner and also serves wine and beer. 

Nick’s Italian Cafe

Nick’s is on everyone’s McMinnville list because it’s good—-and Nick was a James Beard Award Winner. His daughter runs the restaurant now but it’s still one of the most popular places in town. This is where to go for house made pastas, wood fired pizza and classic Italian specialties.  The place is always packed so if it’s Dungeness lasagna or a pizza bianca you’re craving, be sure to book a table.

Dungeness crab lasagna. Need we say more?
Everybody goes to Nick’s.

The wine list features Italian varietals from Tuscany, Piemonte and Southern Italy as well as local vintages from Oregon producers.

3rd Street Pizza Co.

Pop into 3rd Street Pizza for pie, calzone and wings.

If you want a pizza in a casual setting and are thinking of seeing a movie, too, you can get both at 3rd Street Pizza.  Delicious, classic, hand- tossed pies are available in sizes ranging from 10” to family-friendly 18” pizzas.  They also have sandwiches, salads, calzones and wings.  We focused on the pizza.

Hand tossed, classic pizza– and a movie!

There is a movie theater in the rear of the restaurant, and you can enjoy your food while you watch the show.  After 5 p.m., guests over 21 can order alcoholic drinks to bring into the theater. There is an admission fee for the movies.  Note—please check the theater schedule online.  The theater may be closed due to Covid- 19 restrictions.

Bistro Maison

Fancy French cuisine? Traditional French bistro items like escargot, coq au vin, steak au poivre and cassoulet await guests at Bistro Maison.  The dining room is as classic as the bistro menu and draws a crowd.  There is also garden seating, but we took a table indoors. There were a lot of people celebrating occasions the night we dined, which created a festive atmosphere.

Crab cocktail made a great starter.
Classic bistro fare like this chicken with morels made our night.
Save room for dessert.

The wine list is international.  Local producers and French bottlings get top billing, but Australia, New Zealand, and Argentina all make a showing. Service is attentive and we enjoyed a very pleasant evening.  Bistro Maison serves lunch and dinner.

Pura Vida Cocina

Local friends suggested lunch at Pura Vida and we’re glad they did.  It wasn’t easy to choose from the seasonal Latin American specialties like arepas, empanadas and tacos so we tried a few things and shared them.  The tortillas are handmade and when stuffed with the barbocoa beef—delicious!  Wine, beer and cocktails are available and while those margaritas were tempting, we didn’t indulge.

What’s for lunch? Home-made tortillas filled with fresh, delicious ingredients.

The restaurant is very casual but there is interesting art on the walls.  It’s a popular place so book a table for lunch or dinner.

Java Joints

Red Fox has coffee, pastries, sandwiches and more.

Two places we like for coffee are Flag and Wire and The Red Fox Bakery.  The latter also serves sandwiches and light fare, but we were all about the coffee and pastry.  We liked the coffee so much at Flag and Wire, we bought some to take out to the coast with us and more to bring home.

Ice Cream

We had unseasonably hot weather on our first trip to McMinnville and the truth is, even if we didn’t, we’d still want ice cream.  The line was out the door at Serendipity Ice Cream, but it was worth the wait for the two dozen flavors of made-in-Oregon ice cream and house made waffle cones.  They serve sundaes, specialty desserts and fresh baked cookies, too.   

Ice cream worth the wait.

We also indulged at the Cream ice cream truck at the Thursday McMinnville Farmer’s Market.  Once again there was a line, but the fun flavors and homemade ice cream was worth it!

And Now to Sleep

The elegant Atticus Hotel’s front desk.

McMinnville has elegant, eclectic, budget and bucolic lodging options.  On the outskirts of town, you’ll find big budget chains like Red Lion Inn, Best Western and Comfort Inn. In the eclectic category there’s the very quirky The Vintages a vintage trailer “resort” or the McMenamins Hotel Oregon with shared bathrooms but a bustling rooftop bar.  There are also bed and breakfast options and vacation homes for rent.  We chose none of those.

Third Street Flat’s Pearl.

The Third Street Flats got our vote, twice.  Owned by the same people behind the elegant Atticus Hotel, the Third Street Flats are eleven different apartments of varying sizes and décor in two downtown McMinnville buildings. The flats all have kitchens and sitting areas with bedrooms to accommodate groups from two to six.

The Pearl’s colorful sleeping area.

We stayed in the Pearl our first time, in the historic McMinnville Bank Building.  There’s not a bank there anymore but there’s a hair salon, a bar called The Bitter Monk and La Rambla, a Spanish restaurant on the ground floor.  There’s street parking available and the Thursday Farmer’s Market is right down the street.  Unfortunately, we came home several evenings to find that the parking lot behind the building is a gathering spot for some folks who appeared to be down on their luck. Management is working on this issue. The apartment was very comfortable and nicely furnished and decorated. We got a peek at some of the larger units and they all look exactly as presented on the website.

We loved the crisp navy and white decor in the Indigo flat.
We had plenty of room to relax and a full kitchen in the Indigo flat.

The Oddfellows Lodge is right next door to the Atticus Hotel and that’s where we slept on our second trip to the Willamette Valley.  We chose the Indigo flat for this visit. We loved the crisp blue and white décor, hardwood floors, fireplace and the full kitchen in this flat.  We didn’t do much cooking, but it was nice to know we could. The location was perfect for us and we found on street parking easily.  Best of all, Red Hills Kitchen was right next door in the hotel. We also found it handy to pop in and talk to the concierge at the Atticus—everyone behind the front desk was warm, welcoming and had plenty of great tips for enjoying Oregon’s wine country.

We learned a lot of fun facts about McMinnville aka Walnut City at the Atticus Hotel. This historic display is in the lobby area. The walnuts in the bowls are for munching.
A guest room at the Atticus.
The Bunkhouse is the perfect solution for groups of up to six traveling together.

Though we didn’t stay in the Atticus, they were kind enough to show us some rooms and share some historic background on the property and the town. 

Our last visit was just days before Covid-19 public safety rules shut down just about everything in McMinnville and the rest of Oregon.  While many of the businesses I’ve mentioned here have since re-opened, not all have done so yet or are operating at a reduced capacity.  Please check individual websites for updates and further information.  Events may also be cancelled or rescheduled.