Taormina

Taormina’s Beach Clubs

Sicily boasts some of Europe’s most beautiful and pristine beaches, but since we live in San Diego, we usually don’t spend much, if any, time at the beach on our vacations– Hawaii being an exception. On our first visit to Sicily, we spent one lovely afternoon on a nearly deserted beach near Porto Paulo. The season was over, but the water was warm and beach was inviting.

The beach at La Caravella, Taormina.

This year, we opted for a more leisurely paced vacation and chose to spend some time enjoying the sand and surf. Our hotel in Taormina, the Villa Ducale, has arrangements with two local beach clubs—Lido La Pigna and La Caravella Lido. This is how it works—you reserve a place at the beach club through your hotel, the beach club sends a shuttle to collect you and takes you back to your hotel at a pre-agreed upon time at the end of the day. This is fairly typical. The fee for this was 8 Euro for Lido La Pigna and 12 Euro for La Caravella Lido. The beach club fees were about half the price of a round-trip taxi ride from our hotel into the town of Taormina and included reserved lounge chairs and umbrellas. Having a reserved lounge chair is a very good idea, especially during the busy summer season. Even in October when we visited, the weather was fantastic so the beach was crowded.

Reserve a chaise and umbrella, especially when the beach is crowded. Lido La Pigna, Taormina.

If you’d like to go to the beach after walking around town, as we did, you can also take the funicular down. Just outside the Porte Messina, the funicular is operated by ASM (same as bus line), and for 3 Euros, you can take a scenic one-way ride to the parking lot right across from La Pigna. It’s about a 10-minute walk from the same parking lot to La Caravella.

One way fare to the beach is just 3 Euros.

Scenic funicular ride takes only a few minutes from Taormina down to the beach.

Lido La Pigna, Taormina.

La Pigna was more crowded than La Caravella, probably due to the proximity of the funicular, but the water was pristine. There were paddle boats for rent, excursions to Isola Bella and that large rock you could swim out to and jump off—an activity many engaged in.

Lifeguard on duty at La Pigna, Taormina, Sicily. Signs warn of sudden drop off in water depth–in Italian, German and English.

Taiwanese women (self-identified) walked up and down the beach at La Pigna offering massage from 20 to 40 Euros for outdoor treatments ranging from foot reflexology to full body massage. We followed our masseuse down the beach where she had a little area set aside and had our treatments on chaise lounges on beach—not at all private, but very relaxing.

Lido La Pigna, Taormina, Sicily.

There were also some souvenir sellers on the beach at La Pigna. There were neither masseuses nor vendors on the beach at La Caravella on the days that we were there.

La Caravella Lido, Taormina, Sicily.

Our hotel provided us with a handy tote bag and nice big towels. This is important—be sure to get towels from your hotel because otherwise you have to pay a hefty rental fee for towels at the beach–if they have any. We learned this lesson the hard way and wound up paying 12 Euros each, just to use towels at a beach club in the Southeast of Sicily. There were no free towels available at any of the beach clubs we visited in Sicily. Remember to bring your own towels!

Swimming out to the rocks is an appealing activity at La Caravella, Taormina.

All of the beach clubs we visited had changing facilities and showers –but not the kind I imagined. In my mind, they would be like those at the fitness clubs and beach clubs I have visited or belonged to in the U.S.—comfortable locker rooms, all amenities (including hair dryers) provided, private, etc. The changing rooms at the beach clubs we visited in Sicily ranged from a portable unit, not unlike a large port-a-potty, to a permanent cement structure attached to the beach club’s restaurant. These changing rooms are utilitarian at best, but better than going home in a wet, sandy swimsuit.

Restaurant at La Caravella, Taormina. Changing facilities were in connecting building.

The showers were outdoors at both Taormina beach clubs we visited. In fact, the showers were outdoors at all the Sicilian beach clubs we went to. No soap or shampoo was provided and the showers are completely public— in other words, there is no privacy at all. The good news is that you are able to rinse off and even wash your hair after swimming—if you bring your own toiletries.

Both beach clubs had attentive chair-side beverage service as well as full- service restaurants on the property. We enjoyed a nice pizza and salad for lunch at Lido La Pigna but only had drinks at La Caravella since we had already had lunch in town.

La Terrazze at Lido La Pigna, Taormina.

La Terrazze’s menu, Lido La Pigna, Taormina.

We shared a pizza and a salad for lunch at Lido La Pigna, Taormina, Sicily.

There are other beach clubs in Taormina besides the two we visited and some hotels have their own. Wherever you choose to enjoy the beaches in Sicily, relax , unwind and have a wonderful time.

Touring Taormina: The “Must Sees”

The town of Taormina offers several “must sees” including the Greek Theater and the Public Gardens. The Greek Theater, or Teatro Greco Taormina, was built by the Greeks, possibly in the 3^rd Century BC, and rebuilt and expanded by the Romans. The arena is spectacular and is still a venue for all kinds of entertainment ranging from rock to classical music, ballet, and theatrical performances. It is also the home of the Taormina Film Festival. The views over the Bay of Naxos and up to Mt. Etna are amazing. There will be lots and lots of other people sharing the views at what is possibly the most famous, and certainly among the most visited site in Sicily. Even when it’s crowded, it is worth waiting to enter and enjoy the setting.

Taormina’s Teatro Greco is one of the most visited sites in Sicily.

Stunning landscaping at Taormina’s Greek Theater.

After braving the crowds, go next door to the luxurious Grand Hotel Timeo at Via Teatro Greco, 59. If you are staying here, you are indeed fortunate. While we did not, several friends have and loved it. Even if you are not a guest, you can relax with a drink or coffee on their expansive verandah—and once again, enjoy the incredible views. There are many, many lodging options in Taormina at all price points. The Grand Timeo is among the more expensive choices, but it is a very grand property and if you want a location in the heart of Taormina and price is not a consideration, why not?

The lovely terrace at the Grand Hotel Timeo is a fantastic place to relax with a drink or coffee.

The public gardens, Giardini della Villa Comunale, located on Via Bagnoli Croce are gorgeous and blissfully peaceful. Even though they are quite near to the Greek Theater, you’ll rarely encounter crowds while strolling the lovely manicured grounds, which also afford spectacular views.

Taormina’s beautiful public gardens are a peaceful oasis in a busy tourist town.

Giardini della Villa Comunale, Taormina, Sicily.

The gardens were the creation of Lady Florence Trevelyan, an Englishwoman known for her dalliances as well as her botanical interests. Lady Trevelyan included a number of “follies,” buildings included for visual interest but no other real purpose, in her gardens.

A so-called “folly” at the Giardini della Villa Comunale in Taormina, Sicily.

Along with beautiful Mediterranean and exotic flowers, plants and trees that keep the garden colorful all year long, you’ll find a human driven “torpedo” from World War II at Taormina’s Giardini della Villa Comunale. The craft, which operators in the Italian Navy referred to as the Maiale (pig) was electronically propelled and driven by two crewmen in dive suits who steered the torpedo to an enemy ship, detached the warhead, and affixed it to the enemy ship’s hull. Mission accomplished, the divers rode away on the torpedo before the explosion. An interesting find in the public gardens!

The human torpedo nicknamed "Miaile" or pig, at Taormina's beautiful public gardens.

The human torpedo nicknamed “Maiale” or pig, at Taormina’s beautiful public gardens.

Next, we’ll join the crowds and see the town.

Spectacular Sicily: Taormina Practicalities

Like many travelers, we chose to start our Sicilian adventure in Taormina. About an hour’s drive north from the Catania airport, Taormina is high above the Ionian Sea, affording fantastic views of both the sea and Mt. Etna, especially if you have chosen lodging above the town as we did, at the Villa Ducale. More on that later.

Taormina, Sicily.

Mt. Etna peaks through the clouds, Taormina, Sicily.

The drive up the winding A18/E45 to Taormina is usually uneventful except for when you have to share the narrow roadway with enormous tour buses and trucks careening through curves beside you. As we approached the A18/E45 toll way on our last visit, we saw traffic backed up for a good distance—this was unusual. When we finally arrived at the ticket booths, we noticed many people leaving their cars and walking up to the ticket machines. There were no workers on site and the machines were not functioning either. A number of the toll barriers had been lifted up and people were just driving through—without tickets. We followed suit while I frantically searched my memory banks for the Italian words to tell the toll taker at the other end why we had no ticket. I had just about figured out what to say when we reached our exit and saw the big posters pasted on the tollbooth—Sciopero–Strike! We should have known. There are frequent strikes in Italy. They are usually announced in the media in advance of the event and they are not particularly long lived. It is a good idea to pay attention to what and who exactly will be striking, particularly if you are relying on public transportation.

Memorize the word sciopero-- strike! They occur often in Italy.

Memorize the word sciopero– strike! Strikes occur often in Italy.

That experience behind us, we continued our drive up into the hills above the city of Taormina to our hotel—The Villa Ducale on Via Leonardo da Vinci, 60, Taormina. I must admit all those glowing Trip Advisor reviews I read made me a little apprehensive when I booked in for our first visit last year. How could anyplace be that good? I’m pleased to report that it is indeed a wonderful place to stay. We have stayed there twice for a total of seven nights and were delighted with our lodging, the service, staff and the quiet location above the busy town of Taormina.

Our room at Villa Ducale, high above Taormina, Sicily. Sister hotel, Villa Carlotta is located in Taormina, closer to the sea.

Our terrace at Villa Ducale, Taormina, Sicily. We also had a small balcony.

Friendly, attentive service is a hallmark at Villa Ducale, Taormina, Sicily.

There is no “restaurant” at the hotel however; dinner is served nightly on their beautiful terrace with gorgeous views to the sea below and Mt. Etna above. Sit back with a nice glass of prosecco, enjoy the view and peruse the menu featuring delicious Sicilian specialties like fresh tuna or swordfish prepared in a number of ways, pastas featuring seasonal ingredients, several meat dishes, and lovely vegetable dishes and salads. They have a good wine list with reasonably priced local selections. Desserts are also terrific. Everything is prepared in- house and with a deft hand. Service is attentive and the terrace is glorious. If you stay at Villa Ducale, be sure to book in for dinner your first night (at least) as they have limited seating.

Dinner on the terrace, Villa Ducale, Taormina, Sicily.

Simply grilled swordfish at Villa Ducale, Taormina, Sicily.

Breakfast is also served on the terrace, as are complimentary cakes at teatime and appetizers at cocktail hour. There is also a sister property, Villa Carlotta, down in the town of Taormina. It has a pool, which is available to guests at both hotels, and there is a complimentary shuttle that goes between the two as well as to the town.

Unless we were going further afield, as we did when we drove up the Etna, we parked our car at the hotel and relied on public transportation and taxis. Parking is a nightmare in town and the winding, narrow roads are harrowing.

Complimentary cakes are served at teatime at the Villa Ducale, Taormina.

Next up, exploring the town of Taormina. Be prepared for lots of tourists and souvenir shops, but several “must sees” and some hidden treasures!

Around Town in Taormina, Sicily

Even in October, the streets of Taormina are jam packed with tourists, many trailing their tour guides. Large, slow, name tags and fanny packs in evidence, many of these groups of visitors disembark from their cruise ships early in the morning, and after a long day of souvenir shopping for the likes of Homer Simpson as The Godfather tee shirts, thankfully get back on their boats before sunset.

The streets are Taormina are packed with people–even in October.

Both the sheer numbers of people and the shops offering absolute junk surprised me. I don’t think I’ve ever seen so many souvenir shops selling so many of the same silly things.

Godfather tee shirts are in abundance at Taormina’s shops.

How do all these shops stay in business?

Despite the crowds and questionable merchandise, the main street, Corso Umberto I, is certainly worth a stroll and there are lovely churches and galleries to stop in and admire as you make you way through the throngs. There are gates at each end of Corso Umberto I– Porta Catania and Porta Messina, through which you enter this pedestrian thoroughfare. Piazza del Duomo and Piazza IX Aprile are the two main squares in the town with the requisite cafes and shops, though there are also bars and restaurants, along with countless shops, all along the Corso and on the smaller streets. Cafe Wunderbar on the Piazza IX Aprile looks inviting and always seems to have a crowd.

Piazza IX Aprile, Taormina, Sicily.

Piazza del Duomo, Taormina, Sicily.

La Fontana, Taormina.

Ceramics are a really popular souvenir all over Sicily and Taormina is no exception. Ceramic heads of kings and queens are especially sought after in the Taormina area. There are a number of stories around this with slight variations, but all have a grisly ending.

Ubiquitous ceramic king and queen heads.

Taormina, Sicily.

More, more, more.

Modern ceramics are popular, too.

Leave the main streets and piazzas and you’ll be rewarded by Taormina’s quiet corners.

Find lovely galleries and shops on Taormina’s small narrow streets off the Corso Umberto I.

This deconsecrated church is now a gallery on a small street off the Corso Umberto.

Taking a break in Taormina.

There are restaurants to suit all tastes and budgets in Taormina, but if you like arancini—a Sicilian specialty that is basically a big rice ball stuffed with delicious cheese, meats and/or vegetables, (tastes so much better than it sounds) you must go to Antica Rosticceria da Cristina. It’s at 2 Via Strabone—a little alley off the Piazza del Duomo near the Excelsior Hotel This is a carry out place so you’ll queue up, choose your favorite (I like the original), grab a drink and then either eat at one of their very few tables or walk up to the little park outside the Porta Catania (go left after you walk back up the alley towards the main street) and enjoy your al fresco lunch.

Try da Christina for arancini in Taormina.

The humble but tasty arancino.

Afterward, treat yourself to some gelato for dessert. My favorite is Gelateria Artigianale O’sciality on Piazza Antonio Abate, just outside the Porta Catania. Yum!

Delicious artisanal gelato in Taormina.

If you’re feeling quite fit, or just need to walk off the arancini and gelato, take a walk up the 700+ steps through the town to the Madonna Della Rocca and the Castello Saraceno. Look for the signposts.

The cross of the church of Madonna della Rocca can be seen from the town of Taormina below.

The steps can be steep and are narrow in some areas, but the views are superb and there are sculptures marking the Stations of the Cross along the way.

Stations of the Cross mark the steps between Madonna della Rocca and the town of Taormina below.

Some of the 700+ steps that lead to Madonna della Rocca from Taormina, Sicily.

700+ steps lead to Madonna della Rocca from Taormina, Sicily.

There are also benches in some spots so that you can stop and rest. Once you reach the top, visit the small but beautiful church of the Madonna della Rocca, so named because it is built into the rock on which it stands.

The church of Madonna della Rocca is built into the rock on which it stands.

The Castle of the Saracens is not open for touring but you can admire the ruins from a distance.

You can choose to walk down those many, many steps back to town, take a bus which passes just a block below in front of Villa Ducale on Via Leonardo da Vinci or, depending upon the time of day, have the Al Saraceno restaurant or Villa Ducale call a taxi for you. Villa Ducale offers its guests a complimentary shuttle service into town and back. Full disclosure—we walked down the steps into town and took a taxi back up to our hotel. A word about public transportation– there are local ASM city buses, which we took when the schedule was convenient, though no buses ran for several hours in the afternoon, and those run by Interbus (these are blue). Both run regularly and on a schedule. The Interbus goes farther afield than the local bus. Tickets can be purchased on the bus in both cases. Look for the main bus stop just outside the Porta Messina. There is also a taxi stand there.

The views are amazing on the steps between the town of Taormina and Madonna della Rocca. We walked down to town, not up.

If you’ve managed to walk up all those steps, reward yourself with lunch or dinner at Al Saraceno, Via Madonna della Rocca. The food is delicious, well priced and if the weather is nice, the expansive outdoor terrace is open. Again, the views are spectacular. We enjoyed several terrific dinners here.

If you choose to dine at Al Saraceno, make reservations– it’s popular with locals.

Next, we’ll explore a few of Taormina’s beach clubs.

Taormina’s Beach Clubs

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Touring Taormina: The “Must Sees”

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Spectacular Sicily: Taormina Practicalities

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Around Town in Taormina, Sicily

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