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Europe

Tips for Better Summer Travel Abroad

This summer is shaping up to be a record breaker with more Americans than ever heading to Europe and other foreign locales. We can’t help with the heat, weather, and crowds vying to take a toll on your summer fun, but these practical tips will help you get organized, take some of the stress out of overseas travel, and hopefully make your summer adventures better!

Check Your Documents

Make sure your passport is valid six months from your return date or renew it now!

You already have a passport if you’re planning on leaving the U.S. this summer, (please say yes) but is it up to date? Will it still be valid six months from your scheduled return date? If not, renew it today and be prepared to pay to expedite this.  If you’ve waited until the busy summer season, it is going to take longer to process.  Visit the US State Department to get all the information you’ll need.

Are You a Trusted Traveler?

Save time and stress at the airport. If you haven’t already, sign up for TSA Precheck, Global Entry and/or CLEAR to expedite travel. Some credit cards, like American Express Platinum, will cover the fees for these programs which range from $77.95 for Precheck to $100 for Global Entry (includes Precheck) for five years and $189 for CLEAR. You need to have an in-person interview to complete the application process for Global Entry and an in-person appointment for Precheck. Enroll in CLEAR on the spot at certain US airports and check to see if your airport is one of the few with free “security reservations” which allows you to book a time to pass through security lines.

Save time and stress at the airport– enroll in Trusted Traveler programs!

Be sure your “known traveler” number is included in all your flight reservations and on your airline loyalty program(s) profile.  You are enrolled in those, right?

Back Up Plan

Many people keep digital boarding passes on their phones, but there are instances when WIFI isn’t available, or some glitch causes those boarding passes to disappear.  Print your boarding passes, too. If you don’t have a printer at home, use the kiosks in the airport before you go through security.

Keep photos of all your important documents on your phone.

Take a photo of your passport and other important documents and keep them on your phone.  Make color copies of these documents, too. Keep one set with you and leave one at home or with a trusted friend or neighbor. This will come in handy if your passport is lost or stolen.  Having a copy with us made replacing my husband’s passport much simpler when it was stolen in London.

London is a fascinating city but getting a passport stolen there wasn’t fun. If this happens to you, file a police report before you go to the US Embassy.

If you have replacement photos taken for your new passport abroad, be sure to get them correctly sized to meet US passport requirements. Most European countries use a different size than we do. We had to go back for photos a second time, which was costly and time consuming.

Sometimes GPS doesn’t work. Bring paper maps, just in case!

We use Google Maps everywhere.  GPS is usually reliable, but there have been instances when it is not, or we cannot access the maps we thought we downloaded.  The time we were looking for our friend’s winery outside Lisbon and wound up facing down a tractor barreling towards us down a dirt tract GPS sent us on is one of many examples. Bring paper maps as a backup.

Amazon and American Automobile Association (AAA) are good sources. We like the detailed Michelin maps which show even the smallest backroads. Be sure to pack a car charger and a phone holder along with those maps!

Get the App

Download the apps for all the airlines you’ll fly on your trip before you leave home.

Driving?

If you really want to explore a country and have the most flexibility in your travels, you’ll need a car. You won’t have to adhere to train schedules and can go where ever you like, no matter how far off-the-beaten path your wanderlust takes you.

To really enjoy the Tuscan countryside, you’ll need a car.

Driving in the EU is not that different from driving in the US. Roads are well-signed and in good shape in most places. If you’ll be driving in Europe, and many other places overseas, you’ll need an International Driver’s License, also called an International Driver’s Permit (IDP).

Most overseas locations require an IDP. Get one before you leave home.

You can get one at your local American Automobile Association (AAA).  Download and complete the form at home and bring it, your state- issued driving license and the $20.00 fee with you.  You can have your photos taken at AAA. They’re the same size as passport photos.  The IDP must be issued in the US before travel and cannot be obtained more than six months before departure.

Book Your Rental Car Early

For best pricing and options, if you want an automatic for example, book your car early.

Book your rental car when you book your air tickets and hotels.  Chances are good that you will get a much better deal, the earlier you book.  I also double check prices several times including right before we leave town just to be sure there aren’t any last-minute deals.  I do the same with hotels.  We have had good luck with Auto Slash —a consolidator for all the major car rental companies, and you can still accrue your loyalty points when you book through them. Sign up for price drop notifications.

Check for damage and photograph your rental car before you drive off.

Be sure to examine your rental car carefully and report any and all damage no matter how minor. Take photos on your phone before you drive off. We recently had a situation in Naples where they blamed us for damage to the rim of one wheel and forced us to pay for it before we could catch our plane to Sicily. We had taken photos beforehand and are currently trying to resolve the situation.

Car Services

Another option is a point-to-point car service, like Daytrip, which we used to get from Vienna to Budapest. We had already turned in our rental car since we knew we wouldn’t need it in Vienna or our next and final stop, Budapest. We learned Budapest’s main train station was closed for construction and our plan to take the train would require a train, a bus and a taxi and a lot more time than we had anticipated. Instead, we opted for Daytrip, and enjoyed a very comfortable, door-to-door ride in a Mercedes van. We booked online and found the trip cost about a third of what our hotel quoted for the car service they used.

Take the Train

Train travel in Europe is efficient, often faster than driving, and extremely convenient if you plan to spend your time in cities. I wished we had turned in our car after our drive from Evora in Portugal to Seville since we only used the car to get from one city to another in Andalusia. We would have saved time and money taking the train from Seville to Granada then on to Cordoba and Madrid. If you’re going to be exploring the countryside or small towns, like Panzano in Tuscany, you’ll need a car but in this case, we didn’t.

If you’re mostly traveling in cities, take the train.

Download the apps for any rail lines you plan to use on your trip. I keep TrenItalia and Italo Treno on my phone because I frequently travel in Italy. It’s easy to check schedules, compare prices, book your tickets and select your seats on the app.

Easy to use self-service kiosks are available for rail lines in the station.

Most European countries have their own rail line– SNCF in France, Deutschbahn in Germany, Renfe in Spain, for example. Use their apps. You can also buy your tickets at the station at self-serve kiosks or at the ticket office, but be aware that popular routes during busy times, like summer holidays, sell out. If your timing is not flexible, get your tickets in advance. AAA also sells some rail tickets, like EuroRail passes, if you aren’t comfortable using your phone or handling the transactions in person overseas.

Pay attention to both the platform and the train’s number.

Remember to always validate your ticket in the station before you board the train or risk a significant fine. (This is also true for subways.) Keep an eye on the electronic board for both your train’s number and the platform you’ll need. I shared the story of how I wound up in Genoa because I didn’t look at the train’s number and hopped on an express train instead of the local I should have taken for one stop. That adventure took a few extra hours!

Join Hotel Loyalty Programs

Even if you haven’t stayed at a particular hotel brand before and you’re thinking this could be the time to try it, join their loyalty programs ASAP—before you reserve your room if possible. You can start accruing points and perks right away and may even find program members get a discount or a free breakfast beginning with your first stay. Adler Friends is one example where you’ll get an instant discount.

Being a longtime Marriott Bonvoy member got me an upgrade at Vienna’s Hotel Imperial. There was also birthday cake and champagne waiting for me!

If you’re a traveler of a certain age, investigate senior discounts. Book into one of Portugal’s Pousadas or Spain’s Paradores –lovely hotels often housed in historic buildings like a former castle, convent or fortress– and if you’re 55 years or older, you’ll save 30 percent on your stay with the Golden Age rate.

It never hurts to ask if you’re eligible for a discount!

Create an Itinerary

Your itinerary should include your flights, hotels, car rental information, train tickets, main points of interest/events (especially those for which you have purchased advance tickets like museums and theater performances), and dinner reservations. Be as complete as possible and include confirmation numbers, addresses, phone numbers and contact information for each.

First time visitors to Europe will want to see the highlights, like the Trevi Fountain and the Vatican in Rome. Include ticket information for the Vatican Museums, which you’ll buy in advance, in your itinerary.

This simple step will help you get organized and be sure there are no gaps or mistakes in your reservations. In the past, I’ve found overlapping dates and a night with no hotel booked once I’ve put all my reservations together in an itinerary. It is a handy way to share details of your travels with with family, friends, and those nice neighbors keeping an eye on things at home. I like TripIt and use their free product for my travels.

Take a “nature break” from your touring and visit green spaces like Madrid’s El Retiro Park.

A detailed itinerary is really helpful to stay organized, but be sure to leave plenty of time for wandering around your chosen destination(s) and making discoveries of your own. Every city has hidden treasures, beautiful parks to explore, and small museums where you won’t fight the crowds. Rome and Paris both have city-run museums that are free to visit and are rarely crowded! Don’t try to see everything– take your time and focus on a few highlights.

Bring the Right Credit Cards

Not all credit card companies and banks need to know your whereabouts abroad but some do and it’s a lot easier to notify them before you leave rather than risk having your cards or ATM card frozen due to fraud concerns. Make a note of all of the cards and contact numbers and keep it in a secure location in the event they are lost or stolen. Get a four or six-digit PIN for each card before you leave home and only bring cards with no foreign transaction fee. These fees can add 3-4% to every purchase you make.

Consider opening a separate travel checking account linked to an ATM card that you can access while you’re away. If the worst happens, your primary accounts won’t be accessible to thieves.

Leave any credit cards with a foreign transaction fee at home and use your cards for most purchases.

We were surprised to learn that American Express doesn’t cover your rental car issues in certain countries like Italy, Australia and New Zealand but does pretty much everywhere else. Keep that in mind when you choose which card to use!

Cash is Not King– But You’ll Need Some

There are certain things you have to pay cash for.
A bus ticket from Amalfi to Ravello is one of them.

You don’t need a lot of cash; in fact, you shouldn’t carry much at all.  There’s no need with no foreign transaction fee credit cards and ATMs nearly everywhere.  We always have a small amount of Euros left at the end of each overseas trip that we stash away for the next one.  You can get foreign currency from your local bank but the rate won’t be terrific.  Get just enough cash to pay for your taxi or transportation from the airport to your lodging, tip money, and get some coins in case you must pay to use the toilet—not that unusual in Europe. 

The Hungarian Parliament is a “must see” in Budapest. You’ll need Forints to pay to visit.

On a recent trip from Vienna to Budapest, our Daytrip driver handed us each four Forints when we crossed the Hungarian border explaining we would need it at the rest stop. We had been traveling in Europe for a month and had Euros and dollars with us, but no Hungarian currency.  You may also find some restaurants and museums in Europe that only accept cash, but you can stop at an ATM. 

Speaking of ATMs, some will try to charge ludicrously high fees.  When the prompt comes up asking you to accept the conversion rate, decline. You can complete your transaction paying the bank rate, which is the best choice.  When using ATMs be aware of your surroundings, cover the keypad when you insert your PIN, and pocket your cash immediately—just like at home.  Try to visit ATMs during busy, daylight hours and watch for pickpockets.

There will be times, particularly at hotels, when you’ll be asked if you want to pay in Euro, for example, or dollars. Always choose the local currency. It will save you money in the form of conversion/transaction fees.

Buy Travel Insurance

Give yourself peace of mind and get travel insurance.

No one likes to think that anything unpleasant will happen while they’re off enjoying the world, but things can and do happen –from a cracked windshield in your rental car to a cracked rib and worse.  Flights can be delayed for hours or cancelled outright leaving you stranded or missing your cruise. A family emergency may find you scrambling to return home in a hurry.  Be prepared for these contingencies with travel insurance. 

Accidents can happen while you’re far from home. Protect yourself!

We use Allianz and buy an annual policy with extensive coverage as well as providing emergency medical evacuation.  Read the terms of the policies you’re considering before signing the contract and find out exactly what your credit cards will cover so you don’t duplicate coverage.

Weather!

You already know summer pretty much everywhere is going to be steamy and there may be some rainy days, too. Bring an umbrella and a light jacket. You can also use the umbrella as a sun parasol, which I often do when hiking through sunbaked ruins in Italy and Greece. Always bring a swimsuit and sturdy, comfortable shoes for the long days of touring, and think light layers when you choose your wardrobe.

As the saying goes, “There is no bad weather, just poor wardrobe decisions.” Be prepared!

Bring clothes you’re comfortable in and that can accommodate an extra pound or two. Don’t even think about bringing flashy jewelry, five pairs of shoes, or a different outfit for every day. Read my packing hacks here.  

Dress conservatively if you are visiting a house of worship or risk being turned away.

If you’ll be visiting cathedrals and other places of worship, be sure to have a light wrap to cover yourself —bare arms and legs can get you barred from entering. Ladies, please don’t turn up in a skinny mini or shorts and a bra top or guys in a muscle tank and old shorts– you don’t want to miss out. 

An umbrella is also handy for sunny places, like the ancient ruins at Mycenae.

Think about the activities you have planned and bring what you’ll need to be comfortable doing them. Pack only for a week, no matter how long you’re traveling– you can get the laundry done! Leave all those cosmetic products home in your bathroom and pick up what you need overseas. Remember the liquids rule and only bring containers 3.4 ounces or less of your essentials in a quart- sized clear plastic bag. Questions about what’s allowed? Check with TSA.

Don’t Check Luggage

Airlines are notorious for losing bags especially during the busy summer travel season. If you don’t check a bag, they can’t lose it.  Plus, you’ll save valuable time not waiting around the baggage carousel, and money by not paying those hefty, checked baggage fees. Unless you’re traveling with very small children who need lots of extras, you CAN go carry on and when you’re dragging your bag through train stations, over cobbled streets, and up and down stairs in charming little European hotels, you’ll thank me!

Save time and money– go carry-on!
You don’t want to drag big bags around.

The Dreaded Gate Check

Sometimes you will be faced with a gate agent who insists on taking your bag.  Maybe the flight is full, and the luggage racks have no space, or they don’t think your bag is small enough to carry on–European rules are different—you’ll have to hand it over. Be prepared for this contingency by always keeping cash, credit cards, travel documents (including any vouchers and tickets), medications, keys, electronics, cameras, jewelry (if you must bring it), eyeglasses, and anything valuable and/or irreplaceable in a tote bag or backpack which are considered “personal items” and can fit under the seat in front of you. Add a change of clothing with fresh socks and underwear and basic toiletries and you’re good to go.  

Some airlines may make you pay to carry even small bags onboard.

Heavily discounted airlines may not let you bring anything other than a small purse aboard without paying for it. If this is the case, pay for the privilege of carrying- on, as far in advance as possible.  Prices go up as departure time nears.

Cancel Deliveries

You won’t want to worry about deliveries at home..
…while you’re enjoying the world!

If you regularly get a newspaper delivered to your home, get a vacation hold. The Wall Street Journal and the New York Times are among the dailies who will allow you to donate your papers to local schools if you’d prefer that option to having your account credited for days you are away.  Be sure to put a hold on your mail delivery, too.  The USPS will bring you a big bin with all your held mail when you return. 

Try not to order packages that will be delivered in your absence but if you do, let your neighbor know, so nothing is sitting by your front door possibly alerting criminals to your absence. In fact, it’s a great idea to let your neighbors know that you are traveling anyway—they can keep an eye out for any suspicious activity.

Some Final Advice

You’re all set–your carry-on and tote are packed, documents, electronics and chargers/converters easy to access, and you’re leaving for the airport with plenty of time to get through security.

Eat the gelato, linger in that cafe, take a nap– it’s summer vacation. Enjoy!

Here’s some final advice before you go:  To really enjoy your summer travel adventures abroad, bring your patience, be flexible, and keep your sense of humor sharp.  Leave unrealistic expectations behind and be open to new cultural experiences, different cuisines and meeting new people.  Don’t try to see and do everything on one trip. Take a nap if you’re tired—its summer vacation! Now go see the world and have some fun!

Autumn Hiking in the Dazzling Dolomites

You’ll see the imposing peaks of the Dolomites piercing the South Tyrolean sky long before you reach them. This stunning autonomous region the Italians call Alto Adige/Sud Tirol has been a mecca for skiers for decades, but our sights were set on autumn hiking.

The Dolomites have long been a favorite destination for skiers but these mountains are also a hiker’s heaven in summer and fall!

Our destination was Ortesei in Val Gardena, host of the 2024 Skiing World Cup and a paradise for hikers before the snow falls. We headed North from Trento in late September, with a quick stop at Cisalfa—a huge sporting goods store, to pick up warmer hiking clothes for my husband whose plans to wear shorts were thwarted by early cold temperatures. Snow was already falling high in the mountains. Florescent green fleece and hiking pants in hand, off we went to Ortesei.

The views become more spectacular as you wend your way up into the Dolomites– part of the Italian Alps.

After exiting the freeway, the winding roads become increasingly steep as you climb higher into the mountains.  Austrian until after WWI when it became a part of Italy, German is the preferred language in this region where Italian and Austrian culture and cuisine mingle. Everyone we met spoke German, Italian and English (or two of the three languages) while some locals also speak Ladin, a culturally significant language particular to a this area of the Sud Tirol.

German, Italian and Ladin are the three languages spoken in this area of the Sud Tirol.

For this reason, most places have three names—Italian Ortesei is called St. Ulrich in German and Urtijei in Ladin. Along with Santa Cristina and Selva, these three towns comprise the Val Gardena.

You’ll see plenty of sheep, goats and cows as you explore the mountains in the Val Gardena.
Picture perfect, Ortesei is the largest town in the Val Gardena.

We passed storybook dwellings and plenty of cows, sheep and goats before reaching the delightful Alpine town of Ortesei.  Shops specializing in locally produced high- quality carved wooden items, boutiques, art galleries, a lovely church, restaurants, cafes, and bars beckon visitors down the town’s main street—an inviting pedestrian zone. 

Ortesei’s main street, a pedestrian zone, is lined with shops, restaurants, cafes and bars.

The bright yellow Hotel Adler- Dolomiti stands out in its prominent position at the top of the pedestrian zone– our home for the next 10 days.

Market day brings vendors and visitors to town. You’ll find everything from sausage to ski wear for sale!

I’d chosen the Adler-Dolomiti because a stay here includes plenty of autumn activities. Daily guided hikes for varying levels of expertise and fitness, Nordic trekking, Kniepp walks, e-bike tours, Tibetan sound baths, yoga and exercise classes, a world-class spa with a new sauna pavilion, two indoor/outdoor pools, jacuzzi (with spectacular mountain views), a salt grotto, wine tastings, and gourmet dining are all on offer. It’s like the ultimate upscale sleep away camp for adults!

The guided hike to Col Raiser is spectacular and popular with Adler guests. It includes a stop at the Unesco “balcony”.

Activities, events, nightly dinner menus, spa specials, local lore and more are all in The Carpe Diem, The Adler’s daily newsletter available at breakfast in English, German and Italian. Guests can also access this information, and sign-up for activities, at info.adler-dolomiti.com.

There are activities for most levels of fitness at the Adler-Dolomiti. Staff are happy to help you select from the many offerings.

There’s a lot to do here but don’t be surprised to see guests at breakfast, in the lobby, or wandering the premises in their fluffy white Adler robes and slippers.  Many people come just to relax and enjoy the spa. They don’t venture out—nor do they don street attire, except at dinner!

There’s nothing like enjoying a post-hike swim and watching the steam rise from the heated pool while snow falls in the mountains above.

Half board, which we chose and highly recommend, includes an abundant breakfast buffet with cold selections like local yogurt and cheeses, charcuterie, made to order hot items, pastries and fresh baked breads, fruit, cereals, fresh squeezed orange juice and honeycomb—the hearty breakfast every hiker needs to start the day!

The Adler kitchen can pack a picnic lunch for hungry hikers. This first day hike to Furnes gave us a chance to get to know our fellow guests and reconnect with Alexander, who’d led us on hikes last year.

The lunch buffet is not included in half board but is available for a fee and includes hot entrees, cold items, salads, cheeses and dessert.

We chose half board which includes both an abundant breakfast buffet and gourmet dinners daily.
The dinner menu changes nightly and even after a week, there were no repeats.

Dinner starts at 7 pm with a menu that changes daily but always features a salad bar, a choice of appetizers, first courses, second courses and a very satisfying cheese selection and dessert bar. There’s also a nightly vegetarian option. You’ll have the same table and waitstaff each evening of your stay and if you don’t finish your wine, the staff will be happy to cork it and save it for your next dinner.

The weekly Tyrolean buffet included music by this gentleman who turned out to be a local cheese maker. His delicious cheeses were available that evening.

Once a week local musicians entertain diners at the Tyrolean buffet of local specialties from charcuterie to entrees, and my new favorite dessert—Kaiserschmarrn, a fluffy crepe served with a delicious berry preserve and plenty of powdered sugar. Are you hungry yet?

Kaisserschmarrn! Order this local specialty every chance you get. You’re welcome.

There’s nightly entertainment in the piano bar which is also open in the afternoon for coffee, drinks, and complimentary cakes. It’s a relaxing place to meet for a drink with your fellow guests before dining and after. Aperitivo time is part of the culture!

Part of the fun of staying at the Adler is making new friends. After a busy day, meet up in the bar for an aperitivo before dinner!

Rooms are large, airy and comfortable and many have balconies overlooking the expansive grounds– ours did.  The photos on the hotel’s website  adler-resorts.com are a good representation.

Here’s our room with a view! Fluffy robes and slippers, refreshing toiletries, soothing teas, water and local apples are provided.

Both times we’ve stayed we’ve had a view over the pools, the mountains beyond, and the lifts to the Alpe di Siusi—less than a 10 -minute walk from the Adler. It’s sometimes difficult to leave all this in the morning, but the mountains beckon!

Wouldn’t you love to wake up to this? The new sauna complex is just beyond the pools.
The gondola to Alpe di Siusi is just a short walk from the Adler and there is a car park if you’re just visiting for the day.

Europe’s largest alpine meadow, the Alpe di Siusi (Seiser Alm in German and Mont Seuc in Ladin), is crisscrossed with hiking trails, handy lifts to get you up and down if you get tired of hiking, and plenty of mountain bike trails.

Hiking, biking and spectacular views bring visitors to Europe’s largest Alpine Meadow from all over the world during summer and autumn.
Book a carriage ride for your sightseeing if you don’t want to hike.

The mountains in the Val Gardena are dotted with huttes– rustic restaurants where you can relax with a drink or a hearty meal. Some have a few rooms to rent.

You’ll find these rustic restaurants throughout the Dolomites. This is Sanon Hutte in the Alpe di Siusi.
A typical hutte lunch menu–hearty food is always on offer.

Part of the fun of hiking with a group from the Adler is the conviviality. We enjoyed a great group lunch at Sanon Hutte and thanks to my friend Claudia—Kaiserschmarrn for dessert! Some days we also just stopped for a coffee- during our trek or after. Lucky for us our German, Austrian and Italian friends spoke English and let me practice my Italian, too. Conversation was never lagging!

We shared lots of lunches, coffees and laughs together with our new friends.

We spent several days exploring different areas of the Alpe di Siuisi with and without guides. There are trails and loops at varying lengths and degree of difficulty and plenty of mountain biking trails– whichever you choose, the views are guaranteed to be spectacular!

Stunning scenery, like these views of the Sassolungo, make the Alpe di Siusi one of my favorite places to explore.
These are secretly the happiest cows– sorry California!

The gondola to Seceda and funicular to Resciesa are also just a 10-minute walk from the Adler- Dolomiti and will bring you to some of the most spectacular peaks in the Val Gardena.

So many choices– and they’re all amazing!

Seceda, at 8,200 feet, is part of the Odle Group and means needles in Ladin. The views are breathtaking!

A Seceda hike will make you feel like you’re on top of the world.
The modern funicular whisks you to Rescieda in minutes.
We were heading to the summit just as the clouds were lifting!
We had the trail mostly to ourselves in Resciesa.

We hiked Resciesa on our own one day and found ourselves in the clouds. The summit at Resciesa has a large cross on top– our goal. You’ll go left when you exit the funicular to hike here. There’s a hutte along the way, if you’d like to stop for a break, enjoy the views and soak up the serenity up here.

The Val Gardena has so much to offer and some of it is surprising! We visited Europe’s highest altitude rose garden in the neighboring town of Bulla, after a guided hike on a geo trail through the piney woods.  Who knew there would be a beautiful rose garden here? The roses at Rosarium Uhrenhof were having their second bloom and were robust in spite of the autumn chill. Admission to the garden is free but donations are welcome.

We hiked all kinds of trails in all sorts of conditions. The hotel’s complimentary hiking poles came in very handy, especially on the downhill slopes.
The Rosarium Uhrenhof is beautful even in the rain. Our guide, Pauli, showed us some of his favorite flowers.
The Dolomiti Rose was one of our favorite blooms.

Another day, we trekked along the Way of the Cross in Selva with our guide Alexander. After a relatively flat hike, we climbed to the ruins of the Wolkenstein Castle, which is built into the mountainside. Though we couldn’t enter, we enjoyed our picnic lunch on the “terrace” with amazing views over the valley.

Nearby Selva de Gardena is home to the ruined Wolkenstein Castle. It’s difficult to see from the path below but the trail to reach it is well signed.
Not everyone in our group chose to climb the narrow, rocky trail to the castle, but we did. There’s no pressure to do more than you’re comfortable with.
The castle is built right into the mountainside– a perfect defensive position!
The interior of the castle is posted but there are benches and stone walls you can sit on. Take in the views over the Val Gardena and relax for awhile.
Our guide Alexander shared lots of history, geography and local lore on our hikes.

While we saw lots of sheep and goats on our hikes, we also had an encounter with alpacas on our hike back from the Adler BBQ– which the hotel offers weekly (weather permitting) on Monte Pana.  If you stay at the Adler, sign up for the BBQ– it’s a great hike there and back and they serve a hearty, multi-course lunch of local specialties. Bonus– there’s Kaiserschmarrn for dessert!

Our chefs prepared an enormous pot of polenta, plus lots of local specialties from charcuterie to Kaiserschmarrn.
We may have been the only Americans here but everyone was really friendly and very patient with my halting Italian.
After lunch, many guests took time to relax and enjoy the splendid views from Monte Pana before hiking back to Ortesei. A shuttle bus was also available.
Alpacas! We passed a farm with these friendly animals on our hike back to Ortesei after a fun afternoon BBQ.

We also learned the basics of Nordic trekking in the Val D’Anna with a small group from the Adler and returned to the area on our own a few times.

If you’re hiking on your own, it’s handy to have Alltrails downloaded on your phone.

According to Alltrails.com, there are 54 hiking trails, 34 backpacking trails and 17 mountain biking trails in the Val Gardena. If you are setting out on your own, be sure to research current weather conditions (mountain weather can change quickly), difficulty of the hike, and bring necessary provisions with you.

Afternoons at the Adler include Aufguss. Different essences and music are pumped into the sauna for about 15 minutes for a super heated wellness experience led by an Aufgussmeister. Modesty note- swimsuits are discouraged.

We spent every day outdoors knowing that the Adler’s amazing spa awaited us after our exertions.  The big decision was whether to swim, sauna, take a class or just relax with a book.

Not pointing a finger at my husband, but I did hear some snoring during the very relaxing Tibetan sound bath!

We treated ourselves to a few well-deserved massages and enjoyed new to us experiences like the Tibetan Sound Baths and the relaxing salt grotto. Be sure to book some time for this semi-private therapeutic experience where you’ll float blissfully in an underground pool surrounded by salt walls.

Our friend Mario and his wife have been coming to the Adler for 25 years! We met at dinner our first night and hiked together many times during the week.

Many of the Italian and Austrian guests we’ve met return to the Adler annually.  One couple from Bergamo have been coming for 25 years!  We met one other American couple during our stay who were also returning guests. What a surprise to learn they were from San Diego, too! We hiked most days with the same small group of guests and formed friendships we know will last far longer than the vacation. 

Happy hikers! We’ve already booked our return to the Adler for next fall!
You won’t find scenery like this anywhere else. Go discover the Dolomites for yourself!

The exquisite beauty of the mountains, our new friendships, and the Adler’s outstanding hospitality will bring us back to Ortesei.  In fact, we’ve just finished booking our next visit and I’ll bet once you’ve experienced the Val Gardena and the dazzling Dolomites, you’ll return time and again, too!

Porto—Sinners, Saints, Art, and of course, Plenty of Port

Portugal’s second largest city, Porto, or Oporto as the British called it, has a vibrant cultural scene, beautiful churches and a fascinating history, but for many, it’s all about the port.

Welcome to Porto!

Port!

Port and port tastings draw visitors from all over the world —after all, the city is named for the fortified wine.  All the big port houses are here, along with smaller cellars worth investigating. Just across the river in Vila Nova de Gaia, you’ll find Sandeman, Taylor Fladgate, Grahams, Ferreira, Calem, Croft, Cruz, Ramos Pintos, Kopke, Cockburn and many others. Individual port houses vary in their offerings– there are guided tours, self-guided visits, port tastings, retail shops and several have restaurants on site.

The world- famous port houses Porto is named for are across the river in Vila Nova de Gaia.

Since there is so much to do in Porto and we had already spent time in the Douro Valley where the grapes for port are grown and the production of the fortified wine occurs, we decided to visit just one port house. We chose Taylor Fladgate because we also wanted to have lunch at Barao de Fladgate. Food is an important part of the travel experience!

Taylor offers a self- guided tour (with audio available in English) and port tastings in the garden afterwards.  No reservations are needed for tours but they are required for lunch.

The self-guided tour, which includes a visit to the cellars, was fun and informative.
Visitors learn about the history of the wine, the area it comes from, and port production through photos, a short film and exhibits at Taylor Fladgate.

We thoroughly enjoyed our tour, which covered the history and “how to” of port production, interesting information about the families behind the cellar, and included a short film, static exhibits, photographs, and a cellar visit.

Afterwards we were entertained by a group of peacocks and one very loud, very busy rooster who was clearly in charge, during our tasting in Taylor’s garden.  There is also a well-stocked shop on the premises with relative bargains compared to the prices you’ll pay in the U.S.  for ports of this quality.

Visitors have numerous choices for their port tasting.
This fellow clearly ruled the roost and let those peacocks know it.

Taylor Fladgate is the only port house we visited in both our visits to Porto, so we can’t give details on the others, though Grahams was also highly recommended. Check with all those you’re interested in for specifics.

Many of the larger port houses have tours and tastings. Check individual websites for updated information and to make reservations where required.

A water taxi goes back and forth from Porto to Vila Novo de Gaia for about 3 euro.  It’s a short but pleasant ride and sometimes you can see the local boys jumping off the lower level of the Eiffel Bridge to the river below. 

Taking a water taxi is a nice way to cross the Douro after port tasting and exploring Vila Nova de Gaia.

If you are a serious port person or just want to learn more and sample some of Portugal’s best known export, look into a visit at the Douro and Port Wine Institute’s Interpretive Center. A word of warning – port is a high alcohol, fortified wine so taste judiciously.  

Museu Serralves–  Contemporary Collections

A peek inside the enormous Anish Kapoor installation.

As we said, there’s much more to Porto than port. For contemporary art lovers, the Museu Serralves is a top draw. The museum, which showcases contemporary art from the 1960s through the present, recently celebrated its 30th anniversary.  Its vast collection includes more than 4,400 works either owned by the foundation or on long- term loan.  Located in a beautiful park-like setting, it’s easy to reach by public transport, cab or Uber. 

There are more than 4,400 works of contemporary art in the Museu Serralves’ collections.
Numerous models of famous works by Anish Kapoor, including Cloud Gate, informally known as the Chicago “Bean”, were on exhibit when we visited the museum.
The Incredible Hulk has international appeal.

There was so much to see and experience, we wound up spending almost all day at the Museu Serralves.

Some visitors practiced yoga and danced inside this Kapoor installation.

Museu National Soares dos Reis–– Porto’s First Public Art Museum

The oldest museum and first public art museum in Porto, the Museu National Soares dos Reis has been located in the beautiful 18th century Carrancas Palace since 1940.

“The Presence of History” by Pedro Valdez Cardoso, greets visitors at the Museu National Soares dos Reis. Duct tape and found objects were used to construct the sculpture.
The museum was originally created as a repository for artifacts like these, seized when the government dissolved monasteries throughout Portugal.

A 1934 terracotta sculpture by Canto da Maya is one thousands of pieces on display at Porto’s very first public art museum.

The museum was created as a repository for confiscated property seized when monasteries in Porto and other Portuguese cities, like Coimbra, were dissolved by the government.

The museum was created to house art and other treasures like these, seized when the government dissolved monasteries throughout Portugal.
Ceramics, glassware, textiles and furnishing are among the decorative arts on display here.

The museum’s collections include sculpture, paintings, textiles, furniture, ceramics, jewels and works such as a Roman sarcophagus found in the Alentejo region dating from the 3rd century, an 18th century French tapestry that tells the life story of Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama, and contemporary sculpture by Portuguese artists like Pedro Valdez Cardoso.

Portuguese Centre of Photography

Stories of spycraft, crime and photography converge at the Portuguese Centre of Photography near the Torre dos Clerigos. Yes, there are photo exhibits, but there’s much more in store for visitors here. The building itself, a former prison, is part of the story.

Housed in a former prison, the Centre of Photography includes exhibits about the people once incarcerated here.

Visitors can see cameras of every description including rare daguerreotypes, antique wooden cameras, spy cameras, and even disposable cameras. There are also exhibits about the prison and the people incarcerated within its walls, including political prisoners during the dark days of Salazar’s reign.

The Centre of Photography has special exhibitions as well as a permanent collection for visitors to enjoy.

The museum has revolving photo exhibitions as well as a permanent collection. We saw a fascinating exhibit of photos by and about the artist Frieda Kahlo.

Spy cameras used during Salazar’s tenure are on display along with vintage cameras and much more at the Portuguese Centre of Photography.
Former prison cells now house exhibitions at the Portuguese Centre of Photography.

Clerigos Tower– Torre dos Clerigos

While you’re in the area, consider a visit to the Clerigos Tower–– Torre dos Clerigos.  A beautiful example of baroque architecture and a national monument since 1910, the tower offers expansive views of Porto.

Take a tour of this beautiful baroque landmark, a national monument since 1910.

Free or guided tours of this Porto landmark are available.

Se do Porto — The Cathedral of Porto and Churches Worth a Visit

A view of Porto’s Cathedral, or Se, at the top of the Praca da Batalha.

The Catholic Church has a major presence in Portugal and Porto has many marvelous churches filled with exquisite paintings, sculpture and azulejos. Visit the magnificent Porto Cathedral (Se do Porto) located in the Batalha area, the highest point in the city for the art and the views.

Though you’ll often read travel stories where you may be directed to “visit the Se Cathedral”, Se is the Portuguese word for cathedral, like duomo in Italian. Igreja means church. It is free to enter the Se but there is a small fee to visit the tower. 

Inside the opulent Se do Porto, resplendent in gold and silver.

The Church of St.Francis or Igreja de Soa Francisco, Igreja do Carmo and the Carmelitas Church right next door, are also worth a visit.

Stop into Porto’s beautiful churches for some quiet reflection and to enjoy the art treasures within.

Located in Porto’s historic center in the building it has occupied since the mid 16th century, MMIPO, the Museum of the Church of the Misericordia  is worth a visit for its paintings, sculpture, religious articles and exhibits that tell the history of Porto’s Holy House of Mercy and the city itself.  A visit to the museum includes entry to the church and is the only way to see it. 

Porto’s Museum of the Church of Misericordia or Holy House of Mercy includes admission to the church, as well as the opportunity to view the fine art on exhibit.

Shop

If retail therapy is what you’re after, head over to Rua Santa Catarina.  Santa Catarina is Porto’s main shopping street and is in the highest part of town, beginning at Praca da Batalha. 

Busy Rua Catarina is Porto’s main shopping thoroughfare and is limited to pedestrian traffic.

You’ll find all the well-known international brands and plenty of smaller, local stores along the busy street, as well as cafes and coffee shops including the famous Majestic Cafe.

The Majestic Cafe, open since 1921, is still a popular spot for coffee or a light meal.

Nearby, you’ll find Porto’s main market —Mercado do Bolhao.  This is the place to pick up picnic provisions.  If you’re lucky enough to have lodging that includes a kitchen, you can find fresh produce, charcuterie, cheeses, meats, and fish—everything you need to make a marvelous meal. 

Sao Bento’s Azulejos

If you arrive in Porto by train and happen to come into the Sao Bento railway station, you’ll be treated to a remarkable display of azulejos – the fabulous blue and white tiles so famous in Portugal.  Many people come to the station just to see the tiles, as we did.

The beautiful azulejos at Sao Bento rail station tell the story of Portugal and Porto’s rich history.

Rua da Ribeira Negra– Buskers, Bars and Boat Rides

The Rua da Ribeira Negra area is very busy and touristy but it is fun to walk along the river and enjoy the buskers and people watching.  We saw people dancing, making music, and performing magic tricks.

The Rua da Ribeira is a lively area on the riverfront with cafes, bars and buskers.
Buskers sang, danced, performed magic, and blew giant bubbles hoping to collect tips from tourists on the Rua da Ribeira.

Most boat rides on the Douro River depart from Rua da Ribeira.  We took an hour- long cruise–it was a nice ride and especially fun on a hot day!  We did not book ahead—boats run regularly and there are a number of companies offering the same rides at the same prices.  We picked the one leaving the closest to the time we wanted to go. 

A boat ride on the Douro was the perfect antidote to a hot summer day.
Pick the river cruise that suits your departure time and length of journey. Most companies offer the same itineraries and rates.

Souvenir vendors line the riverfront. If you’re looking for cork products, tea towels and “typical” Portuguese goods, you’ll find them here.

Souvenir shopping under the Eiffel Bridge in Porto.
Shopping for tea towels for their new life together?

Sleep

Here, as in most cities, there are lodging options for all tastes and budgets. We stayed at the Eurostars Porto Douro just a 10- minute walk along the river to the Rua da Ribeira Negra area. The hotel is comfortable, clean and well- priced. Our large room had a little kitchenette perfect for making a cup of tea or a snack and the view from our balcony of the Eiffel Bridge, the boats and people passing up and down the river was unbeatable.  

Our spacious corner room had a fabulous river view from the balcony.
The kitchenette was a nice addition to our room.

Breakfast was included in our rate and offered everything we could want from hot dishes to yogurt, fruit and pastries, including the Portuguese specialty pasteis de nata.  The clientele was international and Americans were definitely in the minority here.  We met some terrific fellow travelers and the front desk staff couldn’t have been more helpful. 

The hotel has a well-priced laundry service (shirts were about 7 Euro), important since we rarely check luggage.  There is not a full-service restaurant at the Eurostars but there is a bar serving light fare.  There’s also a rooftop terrace with spectacular views and bar service during the summer months.

We enjoyed wonderful views up and down the river from the rooftop terrace at the Eurostars.

We also enjoyed a too-brief stay at the historic Infante Sagres Hotel in the heart of Porto.  After an absolutely awful experience with the Rosa Et Al Townhouse’s self-catering apartment on our first visit to Porto, we sought refuge at this magnificent grand dame of a hotel with its lux lobby and beautifully appointed rooms. The elevator has vintage alligator- covered seats so guests can sit and enjoy the ride!

Old world luxury is a hallmark at the Infante Sagres in Porto.
Local Portuguese marble was used floor to ceiling in our spacious bathroom.
A comfortable bed in a blissfully quiet room was just what we needed after a very long day.

We were lucky to get even one night here at the last minute on a sold-out weekend. Somehow the front desk staff managed to book the next four nights for us at the Eurostars. We will always be grateful for their kindness. 

The sumptuous breakfast buffet at the Infante Sagres can be enjoyed in the dining room or peaceful courtyard.

Whether port is your preference or art floats your boat, lace up your walking shoes and discover the myriad charms Porto’s winding, cobbled streets have to offer.

Navigating Travel as Covid Continues– Updated!

Note: I’ve chosen to leave this post up as a reminder of what travel was like not that long ago. Let’s hope this experience remains in the rear view mirror!

Remember when we could book an airline ticket, grab our bags and go? Covid has changed how, and even if we travel, for what feels like a long time now. As I prepared for my first international trip in nearly two years last fall, I learned just how different things had become. When I returned to Europe last month, the rules had changed again.

Covid has changed so much about how and even if we can travel.

Vaccination and documentation requirements, for leaving the country and returning, seem to change almost daily both in the USA and abroad. Check government websites for any and all countries you will visit or transit through for updated Covid information.  Some countries still require testing, proof of vaccination, and forms that must be completed online before you can board the plane.

We traveled to Italy last fall, transiting through London’s Heathrow airport. We needed proof of a negative Covid test within 72 hours of travel (we scheduled free tests cvs.com), a completed EU locator form euplf.eu, a UK locator form gov.uk, an Italian Declaration Statement esteri.it, our vaccine card showing at least two doses, and of course, USA passport, before we could obtain our boarding passes.  The UK has no restrictions right now, and masks are no longer required there or on planes or airports in the EU. When we went to Portugal and Spain last month we still needed to test to enter Portugal and locator forms were also required. Had we flown into Spain, none of that would have been necessary.

We didn’t realize we needed a UK Locator Form just to pass through Heathrow Airport last fall. All restrictions have been lifted in the UK– for now.

We flew on American Airlines which uses VeriFLY, an app you upload your documents and test results to for easier airport check-in.  See if your airline uses one of these services. I wish we had downloaded it before we started our trip– we would’ve known we needed the UK Locator form before we got to the airport, saving time and undue stress as we scrambled to complete the form on our phones before we could check in.

If your airline uses an app like VeriFLY download it– it makes check-in much easier and lets you know exactly which forms you’ll need before you head to the airport.

I strongly suggest you carry paper copies of all of your documentation in case you can’t access digital copies.  Not only did we need these to obtain our boarding passes, but also on arrival in the UK, before we boarded our flight to Rome and again when we landed in Rome.  We also had to show negative Covid test results, vaccine card and EU locator forms when we checked in to our first hotel in Italy. This spring, we used Verifly again and it made life a lot easier!

Check specific requirements for every country you plan to visit.

Carry your Covid-19 vaccination card at all times. You will be showing it a lot if you’re traveling in an EU country.  In Italy we needed our vaccine cards to enter all buildings including museums, shops, restaurants, hotels—nearly everywhere we went. In Spain and Portugal we rarely needed to show it, though we kept it handy just in case.

A clear plastic sleeve will help protect your card. I got ours on amazon.com.  At the moment EU citizens and people from 16 other countries can get a digital “green pass” but most Americans cannot ec.europa.eu.

You’ll show your vaccination card at the Green Pass check everywhere you go. Keep it handy!

Bring disposable masks. Mask mandates are changing all the time. They are still required in many places where social distancing is not possible in the EU and other parts of the world.  No discussion. No exceptions. Wear your mask if you’re asked to.

Masks may be required in EU countries and many other parts of the world.

Check your documents!  Is your passport up to date?  And by that, I mean will it be valid six months from your scheduled departure?  If not, renew it now and be prepared to pay extra to expedite this if necessary. Everything takes longer in the time of Covid. I just renewed mine. It took six weeks with expedited processing, though the website said it could take up to 11 weeks. For more visit travel.state.gov.

Make copies of your passport and leave at least one copy at home with a friend or family member. Keep one with you in a secure location and keep a copy on your phone. This will come in handy if your passport goes missing.  Having a color copy helped my husband get a replacement passport in a hurry when his was stolen in London. It also was helpful for the police report he had to file before the new one could be issued.  Never pack your passport in a checked bag.  When you’ve reached your destination lock it in your hotel safe and carry a color copy. Do not leave it in your room unsecured.

Be sure your passport is valid for six months from your departure date.

Notify your bank and credit card companies that you will be traveling abroad.  Nothing will ruin your trip faster than having your credit card frozen because of fraud concerns. Make a note of contact numbers for your cards and keep it in a secure location in case they’re lost or stolen. If you don’t already have a four- digit pin, create one as soon as possible.

We haven’t always been notified when a flight has been delayed or cancelled. Check your travel plans with your airline regularly.

Check in with your airline regularly.  Flights are cancelled and changed with shocking frequency these days.  Both our outbound and return flights were cancelled, rescheduled, and changed again before we left for Italy. Our return trip from Madrid last month was cancelled the same day we were scheduled to fly and we got a “bonus” day there. Your airline will also have updated Covid information for the countries you’ll be visiting.

Book your rental car ASAP. Rental cars are harder to come by and much more expensive than they used to be.  This is true everywhere.  The sooner you book the more likely you’ll get what you want and at a better price. Try autoslash.com for price comparisons for the major rental companies.

Coming home can be fraught with anxiety these days as everyone must be tested for Covid before returning to the USA.  We are one of the few remaining countries to require this and it is not as easy to organize as it was even last fall. At the moment rapid tests taken within 24-hours of departure are needed. Your hotel can usually book you an appointment.  Ours had a nurse come to our room in Madrid to administer the test. If you’re going elsewhere, bring your passport to the testing appointment–you will need it to receive your documentation.  We paid 50 Euro each in cash in Madrid for our tests in April.  Last year in Rome it was 22 Euro each at a pharmacy. Be aware that some pharmacies do not test on the weekend, appointments are required, and because few countries require tests, not all will provide necessary documentation.

You still need proof of a negative Covid test to return to the USA. Check for current requirements.

Summing it up—Check current requirements for all countries you’ll visit or transit through, as well as testing needs for returning, and make appointments in advance. Keep your vaccination card handy. Be flexible– and very patient. Now go out in the world, be safe, and have fun!

Note– This article was originally written in January 2022 and updated in May 2022.