Family Fun

Bilbao: Art is Everywhere, Not Just at the Guggenheim

I’ve met more than a few people traveling in Spain who take a day trip to Bilbao to visit the Guggenheim Museum and then they leave. The museum IS incredible both for its collections and Frank Geary’s astounding architecture, but there is so much more to experience in the Basque region’s largest and most important city.

*There is art everywhere in Bilbao! To enjoy it all you’ll need more than a day in this vibrant Basque city.*

After a quiet stay on the beautiful Costa Verde, we felt the energy of this revitalized city on arrival. We dropped our car with the valet at the centrally located Hotel Ercilla Bilbao and took a walk around to get our bearings. We couldn’t help but notice the public art, pedestrian only streets, and parks everywhere we went.

The Guggenheim Museum Bilbao

*Architect Frank Geary’s spectacular design has come to represent the city of Bilbao since the Guggenheim opened in 1997.*

We planned a four-day stay in this vibrant city and since it was at the very top of our list, had gotten tickets for the Guggenheim for our first full day in Bilbao. Tickets are timed and the museum is the number one attraction in the city. Buy your tickets online as soon as you have your dates and get them for as early in the day as you can. There is much to see so book lunch at one of the two restaurants in the museum and you can stay all day. Bistro Guggenheim Bilbao is the more casual of the two, while the Michelin one-star Nerua offers a fine dining option.

*Jeff Koon’s* Puppy *serves as the official greeter at the Guggenheim Bilbao.*

We could see the top of the iconic building as we headed towards the Guggenheim, enjoying Bilbao’s bustling streets as we walked the short distance from our hotel. We spotted Puppy by Jeff Koons, waiting out front. People were vying for a turn to take selfies and group pictures in front of the enormous floral sculpture. The building is spectacular—even more so in person—and there are monumental masterworks to experience even before you enter the museum. Louise Bourgeois’ giant spider called Maman, Daniel Buren’s Arcos Rojos and Anish Kapoor’s Tall Tree are all outside the museum, along with the fog “sculpture” by Fujiko Nakaya that creeps out from under the building every hour.

The first enormous gallery you’ll encounter inside is dedicated to Richard Serra’s site-specific work The Matter of Time. His massive steel structures spiral, snake, and defy gravity. Walking through the huge sculptures can be vertiginous, claustrophobic, even isolating, though you are hardly alone here. Feel the texture of the steel, which changes, as does the temperature. Make some noise! People were whistling and yelling to create echoes inside the sculptures. It was a sensory experience on all levels.

*Richard Serra’s monumental The Matter of Time is a multi-sensory experience.* *Here’s the view from above.*

There’s a viewing deck above the gallery where you can take in the entire exhibition at once, something you can’t really do on the ground level. It’s fascinating to watch people going into the work, standing in the center of some of the larger pieces, moving in a single file through the narrow spaces in others, and just wandering around and enjoying it all! I could’ve spent the day just in that gallery.

*The Matter of Time appeals to all ages!*

Steps from the sculpture is a smaller gallery that has models of each piece, information about Serra’s work and process, and details about the steel’s origins. We learned that only gravity is keeping these gigantic sheets of steel upright and in place! There are photos and information about other works Serra has created–many, like this one, site-specific. I was particularly taken with the history of a piece designed for the City of New York which the artist took back, after the city wanted to move the work.

After you’ve spent some time with Richard Serra’s installation, head upstairs to the special exhibitions and the museum’s excellent permanent collection. Highlights during our visit included an extensive Miro exhibition and Yayoi Kusama’s Infinity Mirrored Room— there was a line to enter this small room, but it was worth the wait to step inside the enchanting world she created!

Read about current exhibitions here.

The museum focuses on art from 1945 on—all modern and contemporary pieces, primarily by American artists. Works by many of the artists you’d expect, including Andy Warhol, Jeff Koons, Ellsworth Kelly, Sol Lewitt, Rothko, Oldenburg, Jackson Pollock, Jean-Michel Basquiat, Willem de Kooning, and their contemporaries are all here, along with works by other less familiar artists.

Our day at the Guggenheim Bilbao was definitely a highlight of our travels through the North of Spain.

Mercado de la Ribera

*Take time to explore the oldest covered market in the world– and have a little lunch.*

There are other iconic structures in this Basque city, some with significantly more history than the Guggenheim. Built in 1929, the Mercado de la Ribera (Erriberako Merkatura in Basque)is the largest covered market in the world and features beautiful stained-glass windows and original iron works throughout. In the heart of the old city, it is the perfect place for a quick, casual meal, snack or drink.

The ground level is a massive food hall offering just about everything—vermouth bars, coffee bars, beer bars, tapas bars, and sweets shops! We went on a busy Saturday afternoon and it was really crowded, but the lines went fast. Look around to see what appeals, order, and then grab a seat at a communal table. This is food hall dining at its best.

Upstairs you’ll find purveyors of fresh fish, produce, meats, cheeses, spices—all the things that made me wish I had a kitchen in Bilbao. There’s also a cooking school. If you’d like to take classes, reserve online here.

It was a sunny Saturday afternoon when we set out to explore to the market and old town and it felt like everybody in Bilbao was outside enjoying the fine day. We stopped at the lively and bustling Plaza Mayor, full of cafes and shops, as you’d expect, along with kids playing soccer (and subsequently soccer balls breaking glasses), people at tables and sitting on the ground having tapas and wine, and everyone generally having a lovely time! We saw a bridal group in tutus with the maid of honor hoisting a megaphone making regular announcements—all fun to experience! Plaza Mayor is the perfect place to stop and have a drink or a coffee—and people watch.

Bilbao’s Cathedral and Church of San Anton

While we were in the old town, we visited the beautiful Cathedral, as we do in every European city. Bilbao’s cathedral, Gothic in style, is dedicated to Saint James or Santiago, the city’s patron saint.

There’s also the much smaller Church of Saint Anton, the oldest building in Bilbao, right next to the market. Purchase a combo ticket at the Cathedral so you can visit both splendid sanctuaries. The entrance fee includes an audio guide available in seven languages, including English.

We took a 20-minute walk through an interesting and diverse neighborhood to reach the market/old town area and walked back another route, through an upscale shopping area. These very different experiences showed us two opposing sides to this Basque city.

*An American President and a musican on a busy shopping street.*

Beaux Art Museum

*Rainy days and museums were made for each other!*

Where better to spend a rainy day than a museum—or two? The Fine Arts Museum (also called Beaux Arts Museum) is the second most visited museum in Bilbao. They have an impressive collection of contemporary art, special exhibitions, and European art from the 16^th, 17th and 18th centuries.

You’ll find many well-known Spanish artists like Goya, Picasso, and Velazquez, plus others you may not have heard of, with Basque artists known for their mostly modern and contemporary works in this category. We bought tickets onsite, though if you are visiting during busy summer or holiday times, it is best to get tickets for everything online in advance.

ITSAMuseum

Also known as the Maritime Museum, ITSAMuseum surprised us by the scope of its offerings. Naturally, the focus of the museum is the sea, which has created a livelihood for so many in the area. In addition to all the seafaring/maritime themed exhibitions, artworks and even a surfing exhibit, we saw a terrific video and exhibit on Bilbao’s history and the enormous impact that the Guggenheim Museum has made on the growth and revitalization of the city. The video also focused on the role Basque culture has played in the city’s history and development, the importance of shipping and trade, and what the future may look like for the area. You’ll see what a sad, industrial wasteland Bilbao was not so long ago, and what it took to become the beautiful, vital city that it is now.

There’s a bar next door if you’d like a drink and a snack. While we were visiting, they were celebrating Earth Day there. There was a band and lots of people, including families with kids, singing along to Basque songs, drinking beer (not the kids), and having a good time.

Azkuna Zentroa– Cultural Center

*Surprising art and architecture await just inside Bilbao’s Cultural Center.*

The Cultural Center –Azkuna Zentroa is worth a visit. The façade is all that remains of the original building but the Philippe Starke- designed interior is the real draw. There are three separate structures under one roof and within the walls. Eight hundred different columns were created for the building and from those, the architect chose 47 to become a part of the edifice. Each one is unique and designed from different materials.

*Free public art is on exhibit on the ground floor.*

There is art displayed in various spaces on the ground floor between the columns. Several pieces were by an artist whose work we had seen at the Fine Arts Museum. The Bilbao public library is also in the building and has free art exhibitions in addition to being a lending library. We saw a comic-themed show. There are also some small shops selling arts and artisanal goods produced by local artists and an information center on the ground floor. The building and the library are free to visit.

On the top floor, there’s a gym and a public swimming pool available to everyone. Look up and you’ll see the swimmers overhead—the pool bottom is transparent!

Practicalities: Where to Stay and Delicious Places to Eat

Like every large city there are lodging options at all price points in Bilbao. We stayed at the Autograph Collection Ercilla Bilbao, which is in a great location right in the center of the city on a pedestrian shopping street. It is walking distance to all the major sites and there are plenty of restaurants and shops nearby. Our room was spacious (Vintage King) and overlooked a courtyard, so it was very quiet. Disclosure—I have status with Marriott/Bonvoy that gives me perks like room upgrades and free breakfast, so I often choose a hotel from the brand.

*Be sure to book a table at Ercilla’s rooftop bar, even if you’re a guest.*

The Ercilla has a great rooftop bar with fabulous views over the city—perfect for an aperitivo or an after-dinner drink! They also have light fare available. You don’t have to be a guest to visit the bar but you should make a reservation.

Restaurants We Loved

We ate extremely well in Bilbao—everywhere in the Northern Spain, in fact. As in any Spanish city, it is important to book a table unless you’re having stand up tapas. Here’s where we went in Bilbao—all different and all excellent!

We had a wonderful, casual dinner our first night in Bilbao at La Vina del Ensanche. They offered a prefix menu for €45 per person along with the regular menu. We had an enormous plate of beautiful Iberian ham, fresh fish, vegetable croquettes, and two desserts. The wine was not expensive and selections were almost all Spanish with plenty of local choices. Service was attentive and very helpful describing different dishes and assisting with wine selection. They also had a little shop with specialty food and wine you could buy to take away. This would be a great place for provisions if you had a kitchen!

We also had an excellent dinner at Viejo Zorti, a popular upscale restaurant with a long history. We had shrimp with garlic to start, followed by a whole turbo which they presented at the table with Pil Pil sauce—you’ll see that sauce everywhere! It was a delicious meal but pricey, which we expected because the fish was “price by the kilo” but so fresh and worth every euro. The wine list was extensive and again, service was attentive and extremely helpful.

Bistro Salitre is a lively, buzzy place catering to a younger, hipper crowd than Viejo Zorti. They had both traditional Basque dishes and updated versions of classics. It was fun on a Saturday night and they had music, too!

It can be hard to find a restaurant that’s open on Sunday night, so we were happy to have Serantes II reserved. This one also specializes in fish dishes and was recommended by the hotel. It was quiet and elegant and a nice respite after a day of touring.

We’ll Be Back

Bilbao was a city of surprises and there was more I wanted to see and do there than we could accomplish, even in four days. I’m excited to return to this beautiful Basque city of outstanding art, notable culture, rich history and exemplary cuisine!

Tips for Better Summer Travel Abroad

This summer is shaping up to be a record breaker with more Americans than ever heading to Europe and other foreign locales. We can’t help with the heat, weather, and crowds vying to take a toll on your summer fun, but these practical tips will help you get organized, take some of the stress out of overseas travel, and hopefully make your summer adventures better!

Check Your Documents

*Make sure your passport is valid six months from your return date or renew it now!*

You already have a passport if you’re planning on leaving the U.S. this summer, (please say yes) but is it up to date? Will it still be valid six months from your scheduled return date? If not, renew it today and be prepared to pay to expedite this. If you’ve waited until the busy summer season, it is going to take longer to process. Visit the US State Department to get all the information you’ll need.

Are You a Trusted Traveler?

Save time and stress at the airport. If you haven’t already, sign up for TSA Precheck, Global Entry and/or CLEAR to expedite travel. Some credit cards, like American Express Platinum, will cover the fees for these programs which range from $77.95 for Precheck to $100 for Global Entry (includes Precheck) for five years and $189 for CLEAR. You need to have an in-person interview to complete the application process for Global Entry and an in-person appointment for Precheck. Enroll in CLEAR on the spot at certain US airports and check to see if your airport is one of the few with free “security reservations” which allows you to book a time to pass through security lines.

*Save time and stress at the airport– enroll in Trusted Traveler programs!*

Be sure your “known traveler” number is included in all your flight reservations and on your airline loyalty program(s) profile. You are enrolled in those, right?

Back Up Plan

Many people keep digital boarding passes on their phones, but there are instances when WIFI isn’t available, or some glitch causes those boarding passes to disappear. Print your boarding passes, too. If you don’t have a printer at home, use the kiosks in the airport before you go through security.

*Keep photos of all your important documents on your phone.*

Take a photo of your passport and other important documents and keep them on your phone. Make color copies of these documents, too. Keep one set with you and leave one at home or with a trusted friend or neighbor. This will come in handy if your passport is lost or stolen. Having a copy with us made replacing my husband’s passport much simpler when it was stolen in London.

*London is a fascinating city but getting a passport stolen there wasn’t fun. If this happens to you, file a police report before you go to the US Embassy.*

If you have replacement photos taken for your new passport abroad, be sure to get them correctly sized to meet US passport requirements. Most European countries use a different size than we do. We had to go back for photos a second time, which was costly and time consuming.

*Sometimes GPS doesn’t work. Bring paper maps, just in case!*

We use Google Maps everywhere. GPS is usually reliable, but there have been instances when it is not, or we cannot access the maps we thought we downloaded. The time we were looking for our friend’s winery outside Lisbon and wound up facing down a tractor barreling towards us down a dirt tract GPS sent us on is one of many examples. Bring paper maps as a backup.

Amazon and American Automobile Association (AAA) are good sources. We like the detailed Michelin maps which show even the smallest backroads. Be sure to pack a car charger and a phone holder along with those maps!

Get the App

*Download the apps for all the airlines you’ll fly on your trip before you leave home.*

Driving?

If you really want to explore a country and have the most flexibility in your travels, you’ll need a car. You won’t have to adhere to train schedules and can go where ever you like, no matter how far off-the-beaten path your wanderlust takes you.

*To really enjoy the Tuscan countryside, you’ll need a car.*

Driving in the EU is not that different from driving in the US. Roads are well-signed and in good shape in most places. If you’ll be driving in Europe, and many other places overseas, you’ll need an International Driver’s License, also called an International Driver’s Permit (IDP).

*Most overseas locations require an IDP. Get one before you leave home.*

You can get one at your local American Automobile Association (AAA). Download and complete the form at home and bring it, your state- issued driving license and the $20.00 fee with you. You can have your photos taken at AAA. They’re the same size as passport photos. The IDP must be issued in the US before travel and cannot be obtained more than six months before departure.

Book Your Rental Car Early

*For best pricing and options, if you want an automatic for example, book your car early.*

Book your rental car when you book your air tickets and hotels. Chances are good that you will get a much better deal, the earlier you book. I also double check prices several times including right before we leave town just to be sure there aren’t any last-minute deals. I do the same with hotels. We have had good luck with Auto Slash —a consolidator for all the major car rental companies, and you can still accrue your loyalty points when you book through them. Sign up for price drop notifications.

*Check for damage and photograph your rental car before you drive off.*

Be sure to examine your rental car carefully and report any and all damage no matter how minor. Take photos on your phone before you drive off. We recently had a situation in Naples where they blamed us for damage to the rim of one wheel and forced us to pay for it before we could catch our plane to Sicily. We had taken photos beforehand and are currently trying to resolve the situation.

Car Services

Another option is a point-to-point car service, like Daytrip, which we used to get from Vienna to Budapest. We had already turned in our rental car since we knew we wouldn’t need it in Vienna or our next and final stop, Budapest. We learned Budapest’s main train station was closed for construction and our plan to take the train would require a train, a bus and a taxi and a lot more time than we had anticipated. Instead, we opted for Daytrip, and enjoyed a very comfortable, door-to-door ride in a Mercedes van. We booked online and found the trip cost about a third of what our hotel quoted for the car service they used.

Take the Train

Train travel in Europe is efficient, often faster than driving, and extremely convenient if you plan to spend your time in cities. I wished we had turned in our car after our drive from Evora in Portugal to Seville since we only used the car to get from one city to another in Andalusia. We would have saved time and money taking the train from Seville to Granada then on to Cordoba and Madrid. If you’re going to be exploring the countryside or small towns, like Panzano in Tuscany, you’ll need a car but in this case, we didn’t.

Download the apps for any rail lines you plan to use on your trip. I keep TrenItalia and Italo Treno on my phone because I frequently travel in Italy. It’s easy to check schedules, compare prices, book your tickets and select your seats on the app.

*Easy to use self-service kiosks are available for rail lines in the station.*

Most European countries have their own rail line– SNCF in France, Deutschbahn in Germany, Renfe in Spain, for example. Use their apps. You can also buy your tickets at the station at self-serve kiosks or at the ticket office, but be aware that popular routes during busy times, like summer holidays, sell out. If your timing is not flexible, get your tickets in advance. AAA also sells some rail tickets, like EuroRail passes, if you aren’t comfortable using your phone or handling the transactions in person overseas.

*Pay attention to both the platform and the train’s number.*

Remember to always validate your ticket in the station before you board the train or risk a significant fine. (This is also true for subways.) Keep an eye on the electronic board for both your train’s number and the platform you’ll need. I shared the story of how I wound up in Genoa because I didn’t look at the train’s number and hopped on an express train instead of the local I should have taken for one stop. That adventure took a few extra hours!

Join Hotel Loyalty Programs

Even if you haven’t stayed at a particular hotel brand before and you’re thinking this could be the time to try it, join their loyalty programs ASAP—before you reserve your room if possible. You can start accruing points and perks right away and may even find program members get a discount or a free breakfast beginning with your first stay. Adler Friends is one example where you’ll get an instant discount.

*Being a longtime Marriott Bonvoy member got me an upgrade at Vienna’s Hotel Imperial. There was also birthday cake and champagne waiting for me!*

If you’re a traveler of a certain age, investigate senior discounts. Book into one of Portugal’s Pousadas or Spain’s Paradores –lovely hotels often housed in historic buildings like a former castle, convent or fortress– and if you’re 55 years or older, you’ll save 30 percent on your stay with the Golden Age rate.

It never hurts to ask if you’re eligible for a discount!

Create an Itinerary

Your itinerary should include your flights, hotels, car rental information, train tickets, main points of interest/events (especially those for which you have purchased advance tickets like museums and theater performances), and dinner reservations. Be as complete as possible and include confirmation numbers, addresses, phone numbers and contact information for each.

*First time visitors to Europe will want to see the highlights, like the Trevi Fountain and the Vatican in Rome.* *Include ticket information for the Vatican Museums, which you’ll buy in advance, in your itinerary.*

This simple step will help you get organized and be sure there are no gaps or mistakes in your reservations. In the past, I’ve found overlapping dates and a night with no hotel booked once I’ve put all my reservations together in an itinerary. It is a handy way to share details of your travels with with family, friends, and those nice neighbors keeping an eye on things at home. I like TripIt and use their free product for my travels.

*Take a “nature break” from your touring and visit green spaces like Madrid’s El Retiro Park.*

A detailed itinerary is really helpful to stay organized, but be sure to leave plenty of time for wandering around your chosen destination(s) and making discoveries of your own. Every city has hidden treasures, beautiful parks to explore, and small museums where you won’t fight the crowds. Rome and Paris both have city-run museums that are free to visit and are rarely crowded! Don’t try to see everything– take your time and focus on a few highlights.

Bring the Right Credit Cards

Not all credit card companies and banks need to know your whereabouts abroad but some do and it’s a lot easier to notify them before you leave rather than risk having your cards or ATM card frozen due to fraud concerns. Make a note of all of the cards and contact numbers and keep it in a secure location in the event they are lost or stolen. Get a four or six-digit PIN for each card before you leave home and only bring cards with no foreign transaction fee. These fees can add 3-4% to every purchase you make.

Consider opening a separate travel checking account linked to an ATM card that you can access while you’re away. If the worst happens, your primary accounts won’t be accessible to thieves.

*Leave any credit cards with a foreign transaction fee at home and use your cards for most purchases.*

We were surprised to learn that American Express doesn’t cover your rental car issues in certain countries like Italy, Australia and New Zealand but does pretty much everywhere else. Keep that in mind when you choose which card to use!

Cash is Not King– But You’ll Need Some

*There are certain things you have to pay cash for.*

You don’t need a lot of cash; in fact, you shouldn’t carry much at all. There’s no need with no foreign transaction fee credit cards and ATMs nearly everywhere. We always have a small amount of Euros left at the end of each overseas trip that we stash away for the next one. You can get foreign currency from your local bank but the rate won’t be terrific. Get just enough cash to pay for your taxi or transportation from the airport to your lodging, tip money, and get some coins in case you must pay to use the toilet—not that unusual in Europe.

*The Hungarian Parliament is a “must see” in Budapest. You’ll need Forints to pay to visit.*

On a recent trip from Vienna to Budapest, our Daytrip driver handed us each four Forints when we crossed the Hungarian border explaining we would need it at the rest stop. We had been traveling in Europe for a month and had Euros and dollars with us, but no Hungarian currency. You may also find some restaurants and museums in Europe that only accept cash, but you can stop at an ATM.

Speaking of ATMs, some will try to charge ludicrously high fees. When the prompt comes up asking you to accept the conversion rate, decline. You can complete your transaction paying the bank rate, which is the best choice. When using ATMs be aware of your surroundings, cover the keypad when you insert your PIN, and pocket your cash immediately—just like at home. Try to visit ATMs during busy, daylight hours and watch for pickpockets.

There will be times, particularly at hotels, when you’ll be asked if you want to pay in Euro, for example, or dollars. Always choose the local currency. It will save you money in the form of conversion/transaction fees.

Buy Travel Insurance

*Give yourself peace of mind and get travel insurance.*

No one likes to think that anything unpleasant will happen while they’re off enjoying the world, but things can and do happen –from a cracked windshield in your rental car to a cracked rib and worse. Flights can be delayed for hours or cancelled outright leaving you stranded or missing your cruise. A family emergency may find you scrambling to return home in a hurry. Be prepared for these contingencies with travel insurance.

*Accidents can happen while you’re far from home. Protect yourself!*

We use Allianz and buy an annual policy with extensive coverage as well as providing emergency medical evacuation. Read the terms of the policies you’re considering before signing the contract and find out exactly what your credit cards will cover so you don’t duplicate coverage.

Weather!

You already know summer pretty much everywhere is going to be steamy and there may be some rainy days, too. Bring an umbrella and a light jacket. You can also use the umbrella as a sun parasol, which I often do when hiking through sunbaked ruins in Italy and Greece. Always bring a swimsuit and sturdy, comfortable shoes for the long days of touring, and think light layers when you choose your wardrobe.

Bring clothes you’re comfortable in and that can accommodate an extra pound or two. Don’t even think about bringing flashy jewelry, five pairs of shoes, or a different outfit for every day. Read my packing hacks here.

*Dress conservatively if you are visiting a house of worship or risk being turned away.*

If you’ll be visiting cathedrals and other places of worship, be sure to have a light wrap to cover yourself —bare arms and legs can get you barred from entering. Ladies, please don’t turn up in a skinny mini or shorts and a bra top or guys in a muscle tank and old shorts– you don’t want to miss out.

*An umbrella is also handy for sunny places, like the ancient ruins at Mycenae.*

Think about the activities you have planned and bring what you’ll need to be comfortable doing them. Pack only for a week, no matter how long you’re traveling– you can get the laundry done! Leave all those cosmetic products home in your bathroom and pick up what you need overseas. Remember the liquids rule and only bring containers 3.4 ounces or less of your essentials in a quart- sized clear plastic bag. Questions about what’s allowed? Check with TSA.

Don’t Check Luggage

Airlines are notorious for losing bags especially during the busy summer travel season. If you don’t check a bag, they can’t lose it. Plus, you’ll save valuable time not waiting around the baggage carousel, and money by not paying those hefty, checked baggage fees. Unless you’re traveling with very small children who need lots of extras, you CAN go carry on and when you’re dragging your bag through train stations, over cobbled streets, and up and down stairs in charming little European hotels, you’ll thank me!

The Dreaded Gate Check

Sometimes you will be faced with a gate agent who insists on taking your bag. Maybe the flight is full, and the luggage racks have no space, or they don’t think your bag is small enough to carry on–European rules are different—you’ll have to hand it over. Be prepared for this contingency by always keeping cash, credit cards, travel documents (including any vouchers and tickets), medications, keys, electronics, cameras, jewelry (if you must bring it), eyeglasses, and anything valuable and/or irreplaceable in a tote bag or backpack which are considered “personal items” and can fit under the seat in front of you. Add a change of clothing with fresh socks and underwear and basic toiletries and you’re good to go.

*Some airlines may make you pay to carry even small bags onboard.*

Heavily discounted airlines may not let you bring anything other than a small purse aboard without paying for it. If this is the case, pay for the privilege of carrying- on, as far in advance as possible. Prices go up as departure time nears.

Cancel Deliveries

*You won’t want to worry about deliveries at home..*

If you regularly get a newspaper delivered to your home, get a vacation hold. The Wall Street Journal and the New York Times are among the dailies who will allow you to donate your papers to local schools if you’d prefer that option to having your account credited for days you are away. Be sure to put a hold on your mail delivery, too. The USPS will bring you a big bin with all your held mail when you return.

Try not to order packages that will be delivered in your absence but if you do, let your neighbor know, so nothing is sitting by your front door possibly alerting criminals to your absence. In fact, it’s a great idea to let your neighbors know that you are traveling anyway—they can keep an eye out for any suspicious activity.

Some Final Advice

You’re all set–your carry-on and tote are packed, documents, electronics and chargers/converters easy to access, and you’re leaving for the airport with plenty of time to get through security.

*Eat the gelato, linger in that cafe, take a nap– it’s summer vacation. Enjoy!*

Here’s some final advice before you go: To really enjoy your summer travel adventures abroad, bring your patience, be flexible, and keep your sense of humor sharp. Leave unrealistic expectations behind and be open to new cultural experiences, different cuisines and meeting new people. Don’t try to see and do everything on one trip. Take a nap if you’re tired—its summer vacation! Now go see the world and have some fun!

Cool Summer Fun in Fairbanks, Alaska

Once the “greening” begins, it’s a sure sign that Spring has arrived in Fairbanks and summer is on its way. In the space of a week, trees that have lain dormant and shrubs and wildflowers that have been buried under the snow for months, erupt in a riot of blooms and buds. The time to see the exuberant sky show known as the Northern Lights has passed, but the Midnight Sun will keep things light in our 49^th state until late August. There are plenty of Spring and Summertime activities to keep visitors busy in Alaska’s far northern interior once the snow goes! Here are some suggestions:

Rolling On the River

*A ride on the Riverboat DIscovery III is a great way to learn about Northern Interior Alaska’s history, culture and people.*

Take a ride on the Tanana River aboard the Riverboat Discovery III with Captain Wade Binkley. His grandfather began piloting boats up and down the river decades ago transporting passengers and supplies to those living along this important tributary.

*Riverboats and dog sleds have been the most reliable means of transporting people and goods up and down the river for decades.*

I got a chance to chat with Captain Wade in the wheelhouse and found out he, like his father before him, worked on the Discovery every summer during high school and college, learning the ins and outs of the river and the boats.

*Captain Wade Binkley carries on the tradition began by his grandfather.*

These days, after a hearty lunch in the on-land dining room, tourists queue to climb aboard the big paddle wheel riverboat for an unforgettable trip into Alaskan history. We learned a lot about the region, dog mushing, and native culture on our journey with our group from the North American Travel Journalists Association. We even met some reindeer!

*Domesticated reindeer were introduced to the Seward Peninsula from Siberia in the 1800s to alleviate food shortages. Both male and female reindeer of this species sport antlers.*

As we cruised along, David Monson, husband of the late Susan Butcher, Iditarod champion (four- time winner and only the second woman to win the grueling dog sled race), provided an entertaining and informative sled dog demonstration on the shore while we watched and cheered from the boat.

*Susan Butcher’s legacy lives on at the sled dog kennel she and her husband founded on the banks of the Tanana River.*

He showed off his prize-winning dogs from Trail Breaker Kennel, which he and his late wife established in 1976. We saw first-hand how the older dogs tutor the young ones in the skills they’ll need to succeed as sled dogs. We also learned how important the dogs are for survival in this inhospitable climate where roads are few and far between.

*A visit to Chena Village was a highlight of our riverboat ride.*

We continued along the waterway to an Athabascan Fish Camp called Chena Village. These camps were typically inhabited only during summer months when native Alaskans would fish, hunt and preserve their catch in preparation for the long, hard winter ahead. We learned about the salmon that was a dietary mainstay not just for the people, but their dogs as well, and watched a demonstration showing how salmon is prepared for drying and smoking.

*Docents explain what life was like at traditional Athabascan Fish Camps.*

*Fur trappers built these simple huts for shelter in subzero winter months when most go hunting. Anyone can use the huts but are expected to replace used supplies and firewood for the next inhabitants.*

We also saw a fashion show of sorts featuring the many garments necessary for living in this frigid terrain—moose leather, beaver, caribou and muskrat fur play a key role in traditional Athabascan winter wear. Fur is more a necessity than a fashion statement here, where winter temperatures can hover around -50F.

Athabascans are a subsistence-based culture and put everything to use from salmon skin to the fur and hides of the animals they hunt. While many Athabascans now live in Fairbanks and surrounding areas, and conventional camps have been abandoned in many areas, we were told some families still gather in summer months at fish camps like the one we visited.

*The Tanana River is a 584- mile long tributary of the Yukon River.*

As we enjoyed the scenery on our way back, our captain’s grandmother came out of her home on the riverbank to wave enthusiastically at her grandson, and us. We soon returned to the dock where cocktails and shopping awaited us. We got a good deal on waterproof parkas, which came in handy on our Holland America cruise the following week, while others stocked up on cute and cozy pjs, sweatshirts and other Alaska-themed merchandise.

Cultural Exchange

*Learn about Athabascan culture, local history and habitats, and pick up visitor information at Fairbank’s Morris Thompson Cultural Center.*

Our interest in all things Athabascan was piqued after our riverboat ride and we were excited to learn more at the Morris Thompson Cultural and Visitor Center. We met local artisans who displayed and sold their work, which included jewelry, hand-beaded and embroidered clothing, paintings and handcrafted baskets.

*Athabascan people are known for their intricate beading and embroidery work.*

We also enjoyed a dance performance put on by local tribal members who explained the symbolism of every move and sound we heard. We were treated to the still rare event of having a woman drummer accompany the dancers. We even got to sing and dance along to their ice cream song, which shows and tells how to make the treat arctic style!

*We heard first-hand from native Athabascans about their traditions and were treated to a fantastic musical program.*

The Morris Thompson Cultural Center and Tanana Chiefs Conference partner to provide classes and Athabascan cultural programs to residents and visitors.

Take time to explore the fascinating exhibits at the Morris Thompson Cultural Center.

Admission is free and the center has a wealth of information for visitors, in addition to outstanding exhibitions that explain the area’s history, habitats and cultures.

Cool Cars and Clothes

*Gear heads and vintage fashion fans– head to the Fountainhead Museum.*

If vintage cars and clothing are more your speed, the Fountainhead Auto Museum is a must. We spent several hours ogling the immaculately maintained cars in the museum’s private collection. The vehicles are displayed with period-appropriate clothing, which made it even more interesting—there’s something for both antique auto fans and fashionistas here.

*The 1905 Sheldon Runabout is billed as “the car that love built” and was the first automobile fabricated in Alaska.*

The first car built in Alaska is exhibited here and as the story goes, a young man in Skagway, desperate to win the affections of a certain young woman, thought if he only had a car, he could court her in style and win her affections. His rival was a doctor’s son who had a fancy horse and carriage. Never having seen one, 22-year-old Bobby Sheldon built a car from found items including a discarded wagon, miner’s headlamps, a gas pipe (used for a steering tiller) and ordered a brass horn from Sears & Roebuck. He may not have gotten the girl in the end, but he and his car are memorialized at the museum.

The Fountainhead Auto Museum was founded by Tim Cerny who began his collection with a 1951 Dodge Wayfarer in 1976. The 30,000 square foot museum exhibits 60 vintage vehicles at a time.

*Imagine seeing this classic car cruising around Fairbanks. All the cars in the collection are taken for a spin regularly.*

Every car in the collection is in working order and regularly taken for a jaunt around town. Tim’s wife, Barb Cerny, curates the textile collection which includes garments from the 1700s to the 1930s.

Go North

*The Museum of the North at University of Alaska Fairbanks is a treasure trove of Native art and artifacts.*

The Museum of the North at University of Alaska Fairbanks is a short drive out of town and well-worth the trip. The museum contains one of the most comprehensive collections of arctic and sub-arctic Native American art and artifacts anywhere and tells the story of the people and the land in Alaska’s Northern Interior.

*Sculpture, collage, paintings and more make up the most comprehensive collection of art by Native Arctic and sub-Arctic people anywhere.*

*The bear represents strength, power, courage and leadership and is often depicted in artworks here.*

Art and artifacts, textiles and taxidermy, are all included in the collections that bring to life the rich history of the area’s first people and those who followed. It’s fascinating to see the unbridled creativity this unforgiving but stunningly beautiful environment has generated.

Plan to spend at least several hours perusing the art galleries and natural exhibitions at the Museum of the North.

*Don’t miss “The Place Where You Go to Listen” – a tranquil and transformative experience.*

While you’re here, step inside, “The Place Where You Go to Listen.” It’s a unique experience that allows you to feel the earth move subtly around you, watch the light change and listen to the world.

A Day in Denali

*Denali, at 20,310 feet above sea level, is the highest peak in North America.*

One of the country’s most spectacular National Parks is about a two-hour drive south of Fairbanks or a relaxing train ride away. We took a bus, which had been arranged for our group, to the Park. We learned that Denali is only visible 20 percent of the time, even though the peak rises to 20,310 feet and the base is about 2,000 feet above sea level. We were lucky enough to see it both days we visited the park. Everyone is welcome at Denali National Park, but special permits are required for anyone intending to hike the mountain and transportation via plane must be arranged.

*Denali’s awe-inspiring scenery draws 600,000 visitors annually.*

Our plans were far more modest. After a welcome briefing from US National Park Rangers (who seemed disappointed that no one in our group had packed bear spray or even bear bells as a safety precaution) we hopped aboard one the many free green buses that traverse the park and headed out into the wilderness.

*Hiking in Denali was on my bucket list for years!*

Before departing the Visitor Center our driver gave us a safety lesson that included what to do if you encounter wild life, how to use the radio in case he was incapacitated (it could happen he assured us), and how to access the first aid kit—stark reminders that cell phones don’t work here and you are on your own in this stunning natural environment that is, in fact, home to animals that can kill you.

*A fleet of these green buses take visitors far into the Park.*

We were cautioned to never hit the trails alone, to talk or sing as we hiked so if bears were in the area they would hear us and stay away, and to never approach wild animals, ever! Denali National Park is an incredibly beautiful place but it is a wilderness. I’m happy to report we enjoyed hiking amid the awe-inspiring scenery, singing as we went. We spotted moose from a long way away—and saw no bears!

*Adorable and very friendly, Munchkin is just one of Denali’s hard working sled dogs.*

We also had a chance to see sled dogs up close at Denali. There are regularly scheduled demonstrations where the dogs and the rangers show off their skills. Visitors can meet the dogs before and after the demos. We learned that in summer months, park employees volunteer to take the dogs out for exercise so they’ll stay in shape for their winter work, which includes bringing rangers and equipment far afield in the Park once snow renders the roads impassable.

*The Alaska Railroad is the only one with rooftop observation cars.*

After a busy day exploring the this natural wonder, we enjoyed Gold Star service aboard the Alaska Railroad. Our trip back to Fairbanks included dinner, drinks and an opportunity to enjoy the area’s incredible natural beauty from the only rooftop railway observation cars in the state. It was a glorious ending to what was a bucket list day for me.

Go Play Outside

*Fairbanks has it all–hiking, biking, kayaking, even midnight baseball*!

When summer comes, Fairbanks has plenty of options for fishing, rafting, hiking, and other outdoor activities as well as annual events like the Midnight Sun Run and Midnight Baseball. The Chena Hot Springs get rave reviews at any time of year and a drive or flight to the Arctic Circle is easily arranged. You can also enjoy Christmas year-round at North Pole, just a 20-minute drive from Fairbanks. Visit explorefairbanks.com for more!

*The midnight sun keeps things light in Fairbanks. It was nearly 11 pm when I took this photo in mid-May.*

We thoroughly enjoyed our time in a town that not enough people from “the lower 48” get to experience. Don’t miss out on this fascinating destination!

Fun fact– Fairbanks is one of the best locations in the world to see the Aurora Borealis. To enjoy nature’s spectacular light show, plan to visit between August 21 and April 21. That’s next on my wish list!

The Cinque Terre, Portofino and Camogli: Liguria’s Allure

Liguria is the place you imagine when you think of Italy’s spectacularly scenic Mediterranean coastline, stylish Europeans sipping spritzs behind oversized sunglasses, perhaps aboard fabulous yachts bobbing in crystalline waters. I’d traveled to Italy 15 times and when a friend asked why I’d never been to Liguria, I had no answer. It was time!

**Liguria is known for its beautiful seaside towns. We chose to stay in Camogli.**

There are many lovely small cities and towns dotting the Ligurian coast, all with their own particular charms. We settled on Camogli, midway between the bustling seaport city of Genoa to the north and Riomaggiore, the southernmost of the ever- popular Cinque Terre—the Five Towns. We had a rental car and planned to drive from Ortesei in the Val Gardena, where we’d spent a week at the Adler Dolomiti hiking in the beautiful Italian Alps, to the Ligurian coast.

**Pastel buildings, many at least six stories high, line** **the seafront in Camogli.**

The freeways were fine, but rain and traffic slowed us down considerably. We’d been driving for nearly six and half hours for a trip that should have taken just over five, when 90 minutes shy of our destination we entered another of an endless string of tunnels (the Italians call them galleries) and quickly noticed that not only had traffic completely stopped, but everyone around us had turned off their engines. Did I mention I was claustrophobic? Just as I was beginning to hyperventilate, the people in a car ahead of ours jumped out, skateboard and a soccer ball in hand.

***We were stuck in a tunnel for more than an hour*— *watching them kept my mind off it!***

This was the distraction I needed for the next hour until miraculously, engines started, and traffic began to move ever so slowly out of the tunnel. What a relief to finally arrive at the Cenobio dei Dogi in Camogli.

Camogli- Under the Radar but Not for Long

*The terrace at Cenobio dei Dogi is the perfect place for lunch or an aperitivo.*

Our room at the Cenobio was on the top floor of this building above the pool. It was nice to have a choice of the pool or the private beach and we often used both!

We chose the Cenobio after reading about it in a Frances Mayes book. It’s a stylish grand dame of a hotel, with a prime location at the end of the esplanade overlooking the sea and the town below. It has a private beach, a pool with plenty of lounge chairs, a well-reviewed restaurant and an outdoor terrace for drinks and lunch, all with amazing sea views. It is steps away from the main pedestrian street, Largo Luigi Simonetti, and a five-minute walk to the train station.

We had phoned ahead (from the tunnel), and they had a table was waiting for us in Il Doges restaurant. We tucked into a fresh mushroom salad, spaghetti al vongole (with clams), and a tower of fritto misto del mare with every kind of fish imaginable, before heading upstairs where we were lulled to sleep by the sound of the waves below.

Our room was on the top floor of the bright pink building behind the main hotel. The room was amply sized, and simply but comfortably furnished with a private balcony. I could have spent every waking moment admiring the sea view.

**The view from our balcony was unbeatable– the sea and Camogli! The umbrellas below are on the hotel’s terrace.**

Camogli boasts a bevy of tall pastel- hued buildings, most at least six stories high, looking out to the sea, where historically, many in this community have earned their livelihood. There are more working boats than pleasure craft in Camogli’s harbor and townspeople go about the business of living among the tourists who descend on the pedestrian main street in search of fresh seafood, focaccia, and beachy souvenirs.

**You’ll see more working boats than yachts in Camogli’s harbor.**

**These whimsical fish tail sculptures mark the beach near Camogli’s port.**

We devoted the next day to exploring Camogli, wandering the harbor area, window shopping, and learning about the Sagra del Pesce. Since 1952, the town has hosted a huge annual fried fish feast, originally served free to all. The event happens the second weekend in May, and honors the patron saint of fishermen, San Fortunato.

*Camogli is famous for its Sagre de Pesce– an annual event where everyone is welcome and fried fish is on the menu. This is one of the pans they used to use– four meters across!*

The early festivals used smaller cookware but in 1954, the first of a series of massive pans was introduced. That one was four meters in diameter. Two of these immense pans are displayed on a wall on Via Guiseppe Garabaldi near the Largo Luigi Simonetti. This year, three tons of fish, fried in 3,000 liters of olive oil, were served. In all, 30,000 portions were prepared by volunteers. Hungry attendees are asked to contribute 6 Euro each, all of which goes to charity. They even fry up gluten-free portions of fish!

*Here’s a look at the Sagre de Pesce circa 1970 using the pan that now hangs on the town wall.*

The Largo Luigi Simonetti, an elevated esplanade above the sea, serves as the main thoroughfare and is where you’ll find most of the town’s restaurants and shops. Families gather and children ride bicycles around the small piazzetta, which is also a perfect place for a sunset aperitivo and dinner.

*The Largo Luigi Simonetti, an elevated esplanade above the sea, serves as Camogli’s main thoroughfare*. *It’s a busy place on a Sunday at lunchtime!*

One of the joys of staying in a seaside town is all the fresh fish. Camogli has so many excellent places to eat it was hard to choose, but Izoa was one of our favorites.

You’ll find fish and pasta on every menu in town. Squid ink linguini with shrimp and vegetables was my pick!

Camogli has its share of tourists who visit, eat, shop, and mostly depart by nightfall. The crowds here do not compare to towns further south, particularly in the Cinque Terre, and we were very grateful for that!

*Sweet, savory or just plain, focaccia is as ubiquitous in Liguria as bruschetta is in Tuscany. There always a line, but it is worth waiting for the fresh baked focaccia at Revello.*

*Camogli’s public beach is popular even in October– the weather is still warm! Beaches in this area are covered in cobbles, not sand, so bring your aqua socks.*

The Abbey at San Fruttuoso

A trip to the Abbey at San Fruttuoso is a highlight of a stay in Camogli. This beautiful Benedictine abbey dates to the 10^th century and can only be accessed by foot – an arduous hours-long hike to the end of the peninsula, or a pleasant less than 30 -minute jaunt aboard a boat. You can catch the regularly scheduled boat, which is well signed-posted, on Camogli’s pier near the Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta.

*The Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta towers over the harbor behind it and the public beach in front of it.*

The regularly schedule boat to Punta Chiappa and San Fruttuoso leaves from this easy to find dock in Camogli.

After a quick stop at Punta Chiappa, we landed on the beach below the abbey. Upon arrival, you have options. You can climb the stone stairs up to reach the abbey immediately, take a hike up the hill beside it for the views, or just relax on the beach, as we saw a number of people doing.

*It’s an hours- long hike or a quick boat ride to the abbey at San Fruttouso. We took the boat.*

Many beaches in this area are filled with smooth stones rather than sand, so pack your aqua socks. The cobbles are really hard on tender feet!

There are two small restaurants on either side of the beach that we didn’t visit but seemed to be doing a good business. We climbed the steps, past the old rowboats and went inside to explore the maritime art, medieval artifacts, and antiquities housed on several floors of the abbey. We also visited the 10th century chapel and the crypt.

**The Abbey of San Fruttuoso has numerous antiquities, maritime artifacts and art on display.**

Though the abbey was important in the 11th and 12th centuries, it fell into disrepair and in 1467 was abandoned by the Benedictine monks who founded it. Genoa’s Doria family assumed patronage which lasted until 1885. Many members of the prominent family are buried here in the striking grey and white marble crypt.

*This small chapel in the Benedictine Abbey of San Fruttuoso dates back to the 10th century.*

*When the tide is low you can see San Fruttuoso’s image at the beach below his namesake abbey.*

We spent a few hours exploring the Abbey and the grounds and were back in Camogli in time for a leisurely late lunch on the hotel’s terrace and a swim.

The Cinque Terre–Beautiful But…

*This is the kind of view that draw tourists from around the world to the Cinque Terre.*

Since we were so close to the Cinque Terre, we planned to take a train early the next morning to Riomaggiore, the southernmost of the five towns, and make our way back up the coast by boat, stopping in each of the towns as we went. We had a car, but parking is almost impossible in these small Ligurian towns. It was a gorgeous, sunny October day — perfect for exploring, or so we thought. We caught a local train and less than an hour later disembarked along with a shocking number of other visitors. We could not believe how crowded the town was in the so-called off season.

Riomaggiore

We made our way through the heaving throngs down to the pier only to find a sign announcing there would be no boats “due to adverse weather.” Too nice to spend the day at work was our guess!

*No boats today! Sunny skies, calm seas–we couldn’t fathom the “adverse weather conditions” noted on the sign.*

*It’s a waiting game in Riomaggiore– the southernmost town in the Cinque Terre.*

We waited to climb up the stone steps to enjoy the views out over the water, waited to climb back down, waited to get a cup of coffee, and waited some more. We were not enjoying the highly touted charms of Riomaggiore. We decided to get on a train heading north and pay a visit to Vernazza, reputed to be the most beautiful of the five towns.

Vernazza

If Riomaggiore was crowded, Vernazza was mobbed! Even climbing the stairs to exit the train station was a challenge. There were tour groups galore. We finally made our way down to the water, and after noting the crowds, headed for the 11^th century church of Santa Margherita d’Antiocchia for a bit of peace and quiet.

*Vernazza is meant to be the most beautiful of the five towns in Cinque Terre.*

*The 11th century church of Santa Margherita d’Antiocchia provided a bit of peace and quiet in bustling Vernazza.*

After a walk around the main square, Piazza Marconi, we decided to head back to Camogli.

*After fighting the crowds to get to the ticket machine– it didn’t wor*k!

The ticket machine at the station wouldn’t take our credit cards or our cash. We asked the information person what to do since we didn’t want to get a fine, or worse, for traveling without a valid ticket. He laughed, said the machines had been broken for some time and advised we just get on the train with the tickets we’d used to come south. On we went, back down through the masses to the tracks below and northward to Camogli. We treated ourselves to gelato, headed for the hotel, and spent the rest of the afternoon at their private beach, enjoying the serenity of our beautiful little town.

*What a relief to return to Camogli and the blissful peace of the Cenobio’s private beach!*

Picture Perfect Portofino

By now we had explored Camogli, visited the much-vaunted Cinque Terre, had gone swimming in the Ligurian Sea’s crystal-clear waters, enjoyed a spritz or two, but still hadn’t seen any yachts. One stop on the local train took us to Santa Margherita Ligure and then a short bus ride brought us to picture-perfect Portofino.

The pretty town boasts upscale boutiques, inviting restaurants and a gorgeous harbor filled with yachts. There were also plenty of tourists, which at this point was not unexpected. We had a nice wander around town but the sculpture garden, Museo del Parco, we had planned to visit was closed, though we’d checked the website first.

We hiked up the hill to the lovely church of San Giorgio, lit a few candles and enjoyed the views. We realized we could probably see at least some of the art from above and took a winding path back down from the church to the harbor, enjoying the sculpture as we went.

**The sculpture garden, Museo del Parco, was closed but we saw a lot of the art from above as we walked back down to the Piazzetta from the Church of San Giorgio.**

*Here’s the view from above of Portofino’s beautiful harbor and the Museo del Parco.*

We decided to take a boat back to Santa Margherita Ligure—an excellent choice as it turned out. The boat took us on a scenic tour of the harbor where we saw plenty of pleasure craft, and spotted magnificent homes in the hills above the town.

*I’ll always say yes to a boat ride– especially on a day as beautiful as this one.*

After our all too brief boat ride, we enjoyed a walk around Santa Margherita Ligure’s waterfront and headed to the train station for the one- stop train ride back to Camogli.

Genoa

Here’s where our well-planned day took a turn. Santa Margherita Ligure’s station was small and didn’t have the large electronic signs with train numbers, expected arrival times and destinations you’ll typically find in Italian train stations. Five minutes before ours was due, a train pulled in and I insisted we get on. My husband reluctantly climbed aboard and as soon as the doors closed, I sensed I’d made a mistake. This train was much more luxurious than the locals we’d been taking up and down the coast. Sure enough, when I asked another passenger if the next stop was Camogli, he shrugged and said, “No lo so, Camogli.” –he didn’t know Camogli. Not a good sign. A conductor came along and when I showed him our tickets he laughed and announced we were on an express train to Genoa which, by the way, had nine different stations. He advised we keep our tickets, get off at Piazza Principe, and take the next local train back to Camogli.

We arrived in Genoa in less than 30 minutes. The leisurely ride back to Camogli took more than an hour and stopped no fewer than eleven times, but the views over the sea were spectacular. Lesson learned. Trains in Italy may be delayed, but they do not arrive early.

Though I still struggle with the appeal of the tourist- packed Cinque Terre and our misadventures landed us in Genoa, I loved our time in Liguria. It is a beautiful area with enormous charm, delicious food and wine, and absolutely worth a visit. I’ll definitely return to Camogli, may explore Genoa, but will give the Cinque Terre a miss next time!

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Explore Rome’s Ancient Wonders and Avoid the Crowds

Rome is the destination of choice for tens of millions of visitors annually and it seems like everyone is heading to the Eternal City this year. Where do all those tourists go? Only the Vatican gets more visitors than the Colosseum and both boast more than 4 million each year. Rome has more monuments than any other city in the world, so why fight the crowds when there are so many other archeological marvels to see in Bella Roma?

The Vatican Museums are astounding and should be on everyone’s itinerary but even with timed entry tickets, be prepared for enormous crowds.

The savvy traveler to Rome will purchase an Archeological Museum Pass. The last time we checked, 25 Euro will buy you an expedited entrance to several of Rome’s most important archeological sites and museums. The Colosseum, Forum, Palatine Hill, Baths of Diocletian, Crypta Balbi, Palazzo Massimo, Palazzo Altemps, and Baths of Caracalla are all included. The pass is available for purchase at any of these sites and is good for seven consecutive days. The Roma Pass also includes these sites plus additional museums and public transportation. It is available for 32 Euro for a two- day pass or 52 Euro for a three- day pass.

The Baths of Diocletian

The Baths of Diocletian are just across the busy Piazza Repubblica near Rome’s main train station Stazione Termini.

We have visited the Baths of Diocletian many times and have never had to wait on line to enter. On our first visit a few years ago, an expansive Henry Moore exhibition was on display throughout the baths. Seeing Moore’s sculpture, large and small, in this remarkable setting was an incredible experience.

The largest and best preserved thermal baths the Romans constructed, the Baths of Diocletian provide a respite from the crowds, outstanding architecture, art and history.

We were fortunate to see a marvelous Henry Moore exhibition staged at the Baths of Diocletian on one of our first visits here.

Even without a special exhibit on, this museum should be on your list. Built in the 4^th century, these are the largest of all the thermal baths built by the Romans. They are also among the best preserved and easy to reach since they are across the Piazza della Repubblica from Rome’s train station—Roma Termini.

Remarkably preserved Roman mosaics line the floors and some walls within the Baths of Diocletian.

A memorable experience awaits visitors to this archeological and architectural wonder.

Water was stored in these great halls where sculpture now stands.

If you happen to visit the in the evening, you’ll have the opportunity to walk inside the enormous baths bathed in blue light—a simulation of sorts of what the ancient Roman experience may have been. Day or evening, don’t miss this astounding repository of Rome’s magnificent history.

The large marble-clad pool, called the natatio, was about 4,000 square meters and one meter deep. Visitors are free to wander throughout the pool areas and great halls.

In 1561, Michelangelo was given the job of converting the Bath’s frigidarium into a church. He created the beautiful Basilica Santa Maria degli Angeli on the site, along with the cloister he designed. He likely did not live long enough to oversee its construction though it is referred to as Michelangelo’s Cloister. More than 400 works of art, including sculpture, reliefs, altars and more are displayed in the cloister and gardens.

The cloister of Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri, referred to as Michelangelo’s Cloister, contains hundreds of statues, sculpture, altars and sarcophagi.

This is one of several colossal animal heads that were found near Trajan’s Column in 1586 and brought to the cloister.

Inside the National Roman Museum, which has been housed at the Baths of Diocletian since 1889, visitors will find three floors of extraordinary exhibitions and works of art ranging from important documents related to Roman life, culture and commerce through the centuries, to classic sculpture, funerary objects, mosaics and much more.

Art and artifacts from the 5th century BC to the 4th century AD are displayed in the area known as the Epigraphic Museum, part of the National Roman Museum.

Fascinating documents and antiquities relating to Roman life, culture and commerce through the centuries bring the Roman experience to life.

We have visited the Baths of Diocletian numerous times and always spend many more hours than we planned– wandering through the Baths, the garden and cloister, and of course, the marvelous museum and beautiful Michelangelo-designed church, all located on this easy- to- reach site. There is so much to see here. Don’t miss it!

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Built at the behest of Jesuit priest Massimiliano Massimo, whose family had owned the land prior to the construction of Rome’s Termini Station, Palazzo Massimo was constructed between 1883 and 1887.

Also near the Baths of Diocletian you’ll find the stunning Palazzo Massimo alle Terme. This is another of Rome’s great treasures not found on many traveller’s itineraries. The Palazzo Massimo gives visitors a rare look into what life was like for upper class Romans during the empire’s heyday.

Detail of one of the many beautifully preserved mosaics on display at Palazzo Massimo alle Terme.

Here you’ll discover beautifully preserved mosaics, frescoes, stuccoes and entire rooms rebuilt inside the museum from Imperial Roman villas. The beautiful painted garden from Livia’s Villa (constructed 75-50 BC) now displayed here, offers a serene escape in the heart of the busy city.

These carefully restored painted walls once adorned the villa belonging to Livia, wife of Augustus.

This reconstructed room from Villa Farnesina gives a glimpse into upper class Roman life in the 1st century BC.

These bronze arms were fittings from one of two ceremonial vessels owned by Caligula and recovered from Lake Nemi between World Wars I and II. The ships were destroyed during WWII.

Portraits from the Republican to the Imperial era, Greek and Roman sculpture (including the famous Hermaphroditus Asleep from the 2^nd Century), jewelry, furnishings, and even a mummy of an eight-year old are included in the museum’s collections.

The Boxer (also called The Pugilist) seems to gaze plaintively at visitors through his lost eyes. This magnificent sculpture may date from the 4th century BC and was found on Quirinal Hill.

The Lancellotti Discobolos, in the foreground, is another important sculpture from the Antonine period on view at Palazzo Massimo.

Palazzo Altemps

This peaceful courtyard gives visitors to Palazza Altemps quiet respite from the busy Piazza Navona just outside.

Just off the busy Piazza Navona is Palazzo Altemps. This gorgeous 15^th century palace was once home to Cardinal Altemps and has been a part of the Roman National Museum since 1997.

Classical sculpture and elaborately decorated ceilings line the loggia.

The Palazzo includes works ranging from Egyptian antiquities, Greek and Roman sculpture, original frescoes, and the spectacular Ludovisi Collection.

The Ludovisi Fury is thought to be a copy of a Greek work, likely from the 2nd century. The left side of the face was cut horizontally to provide stability and is sometimes called the Sleeping Fury.

Ancient sculpture and reliefs from important collections, notable Egyptian artifacts, frescoes from 70-100 AD, and other antiquities are all housed in the museum’s galleries.

The 104 sculptures that comprise the collection, begun by Cardinal Ludovico Ludovisi in the early 1620s and purchased by the Italian government in 1901, is widely regarded as the centerpiece of the Palazzo Altemps. Be sure to see the famous Ludovisi Throne.

Detail of one of the colossal sculptures displayed at the Palazzo.

The museum also houses several other important collections including the Mattei and “Dragon Collection” which has nothing to do with mythical beasts but is instead the works owned by the del Drago family. Visitors will also find the Pallavicini Rospigliosi Frescoes, which date from 70-100 AD, and notable art and significant artifacts in the Altemps’ Egyptian and Antiquarian collections.

The beautiful Church of San Aniceto is located within the Palazzo Altemps– a serene spot for contemplation and prayer.

Step inside the Church of San Aniceto, which is located within the palazzo and was built in 1617 to house the saint’s remains, for a meditative moment or two and leave the noise and crowds behind.

Crypta Balbi

Crypta Balbi’s excavations show how Rome developed from antiquity through the 20th century, building layer upon layer from its ancient beginnings.

You will not be fighting crowds at Crypta Balbi, also part of the National Roman Museum. It is a wonderful archeological site and should be on your list of remarkable places to see. A subterranean tour through excavations of ancient buildings, combined with fascinating exhibitions, takes visitors on a historical journey from Rome’s earliest beginnings through the 20th century.

The excavations, which give visitors a fascinating look at the city’s earliest development, began in 1981.

Frescoes, such as these from Santa Maria in Via Lata can be found upstairs in the “Rome from Antiquity to Middle Ages” section of the museum.

Ceramics, glass fragments, coins, tools and other items from Roman daily life centuries ago are on display.

Be aware that there are not always English speaking guides available to accompany you through the excavations below the museum but the exhibitions upstairs have information in English. Even without a guide, it is worth exploring the lower level. The museum is at Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, just around the corner from the Largo di Torre Argentina where you’ll find interesting ruins, a sunken excavation site and a cat sanctuary and adoption point.

The Largo di Torre Argentina is home to ancient Roman ruins and a cat sanctuary.

The Pantheon

The Pantheon is one of Rome’s most important and most visited ancient wonders.

The Pantheon is one of ancient Rome’s most glorious structures and has been in continual use since it was built by Marcus Agrippa in 31 BC and rebuilt by the Emperor Hadrian 125-118 AD. Illuminated by the oculus in its magnificent dome, the Pantheon boasts the largest masonry vault ever constructed. As of July 3, 2023 a 5 Euro fee is required to enter. Tickets are available online and onsite and nearly 3,800 were sold the first day.

Originally built in 31 BC by Marcus Agrippa, this is the largest masonry vault ever constructed and it is spectacular.

We have been here when the sun is streaming in through the oculus as well as when the rain is pouring down—a visit here is a memorable experience at any time.

Sculpture, paintings and sacred art adorn the interior of the Pantheon.

The esteemed Italian painter Raphael and Italy’s first king, Vittorio Emanuel II, are both buried here. Go early in the morning to beat the crowds.

Arrive here any time after early morning and be prepared for large crowds and the occasional, “Silencio,” shouted by guards.

After you’ve finished marveling at the immense beauty inside the Pantheon, take a walk around the exterior. You can see excavations of the shops and dwellings that surrounded the building during the era of Imperial Rome.

Shops and homes were once built into the Pantheon’s exterior walls. Visitors can see the remains today.

Close to this magnificent building you’ll find the classic Armando Al Pantheon. Open for lunch and dinner, except on Saturday nights and Sundays, this place serves traditional Roman cuisine. Reservations are essential as it’s popular with locals and tourists.

The Colosseum

If you’ve never visited Rome before, you’ll need to brave the crowds and see the Colosseum.

I’m not suggesting you skip the Colosseum. In fact, if you’re planning to head over that way, be sure to include the Forum and Palatine Hill in your plans. Just be prepared. Lines are less long early in the morning, but there are always lines. If you have an Archeological Pass or Roma Pass you get to go on a much shorter line than those without—just look for the signs. The Colosseum, which took just under 10 years to build, was completed in 80 AD and is the largest amphitheater ever constructed.

Pack your patience and your most comfortable walking shoes. Crowds are huge and steps are steep and unforgiving at the Colosseum–one of Rome’s most visited sites.

There are rules, though apparently not always observed.

You’ll be hiking up and down some very steep stone steps and rocky, uneven walk ways in both the Colosseum and the Forum. There is no shade so wear a hat or take an umbrella to keep the sun off and bring a bottle of water if it’s a hot day. There are no services or shops. Some areas are handicapped accessible but inquire before setting off.

The Forum

The Forum tempts the imagination with incredible Imperial Roman ruins.

The Roman Forum was the heart of the ancient city and the ruins are spectacular. Some of the highlights include the Arch of Titus (through which most visitors enter), the Temple of Saturn, and the Temple of Vesta. The Sacra Via, or sacred road, runs through the ancient site.

Uneven walkways and cobbled paths at the Forum call for comfortable shoes. Bring a hat and water– there’s no shade and no conveniences inside the gates.

Be aware that unlike the Colosseum, there are no facilities once you are in the Forum—no bathrooms, snack shops, water fountains or souvenir vendors inside the gates. Beware of pickpockets and “for hire” guides at both the Colosseum and the Forum. The latter often dupe visitors into thinking they must buy a guided tour to get inside, which is not true.

Visitors take a walk through ancient history on original Roman roads. Most significant sites are signed in English and Italian but a guidebook will be handy here.

All that walking gave us an appetite. We had a good lunch across from the Colosseum at Angelino ai Fori dal 1947 at Largo Ricci #40, 06.6791121. We expected high prices and mediocre food since it’s so close to several major tourist sites but were pleasantly surprised by both the food and the prices.

We enjoyed a delicious lunch on the patio at Angelino ai Fori.

If you are prepared for a short journey, take a trip to Ostia Antica. Ancient Ostia was once a bustling seaside town built on the Tiber River where it enters the Mediterranean Sea, but now, 2,000 years later, it is four kilometers from the water. We found the ancient site even more interesting than the Forum and far less crowded. We enjoyed a picnic here one fine afternoon and learned, once we had secured a knowledgeable guide of the area, that we’d had our lunch seated on a burial site. There are spectacular ruins of baths, a theater, apartment houses (some with painting still intact), mosaics, and much more to see in the excavations of this once fortified city.

These are just a few of the astounding archeological treasures found nowhere else but Rome. Put on your walking shoes and go explore this ancient and vibrant city.

PS If you’re looking for restaurant recommendations near the historic center or want to know where to go for gelato, reach out!

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The Amazing Earth Pyramids of Renon/Ritten

I have a fear of heights. Standing at the cable car station in Bolzano/Bozen and staring up at the impressive mountain I was about to ascend made me a little queasy, but I hadn’t come all this way to miss out on a hike in the Dolomites. Specifically, a hike to see the earth pyramids of Renon/Ritten.

*The cable car is the fastest and easiest way to reach Soprabolzano/Oberbozen.*

We boarded the red gondola along with a group of young men laden with picnic provisions and camping gear and up we went. I choked back my apprehension and concentrated on the incredible views as we climbed higher and higher up the mountain toward SopraBolzano/Oberbozen.

*The views are exceptional as you ascend the 1221 meters to the mountaintop.*

It’s possible to take a bus or drive up the steep switchbacks to reach the town, but the cable car is much faster and easier. It departs every four minutes and takes less than 15 minutes to reach the top– 1221 meters above Bolzano/Bozen.

*Hikers and campers shared our gondola for the 15-minute ride.*

The cable car deposits you right across the street from the historic narrow- gauge Renon/Ritten Railroad. Be sure to buy a round trip combo ticket for the cable car and the railroad when you purchase your ticket at the Bolzano/Bozen station.

*The historic railroad has been carrying passengers since 1907.*

Trains run every 30 minutes during peak daytime hours. Climb aboard and enjoy the mountain views on the 20-minute ride from SopraBolzano/Oberbozen to Collalbo/Klobenstein. We passed farms, cows, hikers and traditional Alpine A-frame homes as we whizzed by to the end of the line.

*We zipped along through the beautiful Alpine countryside enjoying the views.*

It’s a short walk from the station through a residential neighborhood to the center of Collalbo/ Klobenstein where lunch can be had a several restaurants. Most seemed to offer the same traditional South Tyrol dishes but the two we had our eye on were closing shortly and wouldn’t seat us.

*The path from the train station into Collalbo/Klobenstein goes through a residential area.*

It’s a pleasant stroll from the train station and fun to see all the carefully tended gardens along the way.

*One of the gardens we passed was creatively decorated with gnomes and a Disney princess.*

It was disappointing to be turned away from several restaurants because we arrived too close to the kitchen closing, but we kept searching!

*Sleek Zentral was a welcome sight for these hungry travelers.*

We were directed to Zentral by a harried hostess and off we went in search of sustenance. We were not disappointed and were soon tucking into a perfectly prepared weiner schnitzel and a tasty mushroom and polenta dish. We had a crisp local white wine with the meal and finished up with some house made gelato.

*Crisp, perfectly prepared weiner schnitzel was just right for lunch.*

Menus in the Sud Tirol usually feature Austrian and Italian influenced dishes and are always seasonal.

*A medley of local mushrooms atop polenta was outstanding.*

Save room for dessert! Cakes and gelato are always on offer.

There is a mix of Austrian and Italian influences in this autonomous area of Italy, which was a part of Austria until the end of World War I. German is the predominant and preferred language in the Sud Tirol, though signage and menus are generally printed in German, Italian and sometimes English. You’ll find many people speak English, particularly in hotels, shops and restaurants here.

*Signs indicate directions and show how long it will take to reach your destination.*

After a satisfying lunch we headed off towards our destination—Longomoso/Lengmoos and the earth pyramids of Renon/Ritten. It’s an easy 30-minute hike from town to see these natural wonders, said to be Europe’s highest and most perfectly shaped examples of the boulder- topped pillars.

*It’s an easy 30- minute hike to the earth pyramids.*

Paths are well-marked and part of the way to the earth pyramids is paved.

*Signs in German and Italian point the way.*

The views just get better and better as you continue your hike!

*The earth pyramids at Renon/Ritten are 25,000 years old.*

Called erdpyramiden in German or piramidi di terra in Italian, the conical pillars were formed 25,000 years ago from the moraine clay soil left behind when the last of the Ice Age glaciers covering the Valle d’Isarco melted away. It takes thousands of years for earth pyramids to form and the process is a dynamic one.

*These earth pyramids are said to be the highest and most perfectly shaped in Europe.*

In dry weather, the soil is rock hard, but rain softens the earth and carries away the soil. The rocks left behind in the mud protect the clay soil beneath them, which rises from the earth to form the pyramids—capped by the boulders that allowed them to develop. As older earth pyramids collapse, new ones form. They really are spectacular to see!

*New pillars are formed as the older ones collapse.*

These are some of the most impressive earth pyramids in the world and some of the oldest!

*The boulders capping the pyramids protect them and allow them to develop.*

At the end of the trail from Collalbo/Klobenstein, there is a large viewing platform with panoramic vistas over the valley to the earth pyramids in the nearby gorge, with maps and helpful information in German, Italian and English. We were lucky to have the platform to ourselves much of the time, though during busy summer months the popular site draws crowds.

Keep going– enjoy the views and pose for a silly picture at the top.

Many natural sites in this area have maps that include highlights of the area and give a sense of place.

*Informational signs are in German, Italian and English at this popular site.*

After enjoying the sensational view of the earth pyramids for quite some time, we began the hike back. We came upon the Café Erdpyramiden along the way.

*We were happy to find the cafe open as there are no services or facilities near the viewing platform.*

The cafe is a handy stop since there are no facilities at the viewing platform or along the trail to reach it.

*Stop in for coffee, cold drinks, snacks and local wine.*

It’s a great place to enjoy the view, have a drink and a snack and use the facilities!

*Bring your drink out on the back terrace and enjoy a last look at the earth pyramids.*

A pleasant stroll back past historic buildings, churches, homes, a pond and grazing cows took us back to town and the train station.

*It’s a beautiful walk through the countryside to and from the earth pyramids.*

Enjoy the walk back– it’s an easy trek.

*It’s hard to get lost with signage everywhere!*

Our timing was perfect and five minutes later we were chugging along toward home.

*Trains run every 30 minutes during peak hours and we timed our return perfectly.*

We wandered around SopraBolzano/Oberbozen, admiring the views and checking out lodging for a future trip before heading back down to Bolzano/Bozen on the cable car.

*The comfortable lobby at Gloriette Guesthouse. Love the baby buggy bar.*

We popped in the the Gloriette Guesthouse to check it out for a return visit to the area.

*We had a nice wander around the town of Soprabolzano/Oberbozen before heading to the cable car.*

*Making our descent into the center of Bolzano/Bozen after a wonderful day in the Dolomites.*

We will definitely return to this spectacular area and its natural wonders and suggest you add it to your list, too. In the meantime you can enjoy the virtual view here.

Listen to the World at Phoenix’s Musical Instrument Museum

If “Music is the language of the soul,” the Musical Instrument Museum speaks it fluently. The MIM, as it’s known, is home to more than 8,000 musical instruments from every country on the planet and calls itself the world’s only global music museum.

*Musical instruments from every country on earth are displayed at the MIM, sometimes along with ceremonial costumes, like this one from the Mongol people of Ulaanbaatar.*

Wonder what a theremin sounds like or even what it is? Put on your headset and watch and listen as virtuoso Clara Rockmore brings this custom-built instrument to life, moving her hands between two antennae to control pitch and volume. You’ll learn the history behind the instrument, the artist, and even see what she wore as she toured the USA with major symphonic orchestras in the 1930s.

*I’d never heard of a theremin before my visit to the MIM! Now I’ve had the chance to see, hear and even play one!*

The MIM’s interactive technology instantly syncs your headset to any video screen you stand before, allowing guests to see, hear and experience instruments we may never have even heard of, let alone seen and heard being played!

*Move your hands between two antennae to control pitch and volume on the theremin. There’s one in the Experience Gallery for visitors to try!*

Throughout the museum, thousands of instruments– historic, rare and sometimes common place– are displayed along with clothing, costumes, cultural artifacts, maps, and most importantly, information that gives perspective to the ceremonies, rituals and the role in everyday life the instruments play. The videos that accompany each exhibition take visitors on a musical journey to countries and cultures around the world and sometimes, back in time.

*Headphones sync automatically with videos as you walk through the museum.Watch and listen as Kukeri- costumed dancers chase away evil spirits with their jangling bells in Bulgaria*.

*Visit Ireland and hear the Chieftains, the country’s “Musical Ambassadors,” perform traditional Irish music.*

We started our visit at the MIM’s special exhibition, Treasures: Legendary Musical Instruments. Rare, historically significant and stunningly beautiful instruments from around the world, spanning thousands of years of musical history, are on display along with videos that allow you to hear these incredible instruments being played.

*Where else will you see and hear an ancient Greek trumpet that may be the only one of its kind still in existence*?

Nowhere else will you experience the sounds and sight of a Salpinx, an ancient Greek trumpet (300 BCE-200 CE) believed to be the only one of its kind still in existence! You’ll see and hear renowned musician Jake Shimabakuro play a Kumu tenor ukulele handcrafted of Koa wood, mahogany, mother-of pearl, ebony, turquoise, abalone and onyx, built specifically for him. View fragments of a 4,500-year-old lyre from Ur, Mesopotamia (modern day Iraq), along with the oldest intact guitar on earth, and Jimi Hendrix’s iconic Black Widow guitar.

*The oldest intact guitar in the world is at the MIM along with Jimi Hendrix’s famous Black Widow*, *shown below.*

*Anthropomorphic harps from the Ngandi people of the Central African Republic are among the rare instruments in the **Treasures** exhibition and are a part of the MIM’s permanent collection.*

The collection includes a 1584 harpsichord from Belgium made from wood, bird quill, iron, felt, paper and paint, and anthropomorphic harps from the Ngandi people of the Central African Republic (1850-1875). There are fiddles, mandolins, drums, bells, lutes, and flutes– some shown being played by world-class musicians. In the center of it all is a spectacular bronze-gilded grand piano built by the Erard Company in Paris for the 1889 Exposition Universelle, where the Eiffel Tower was introduced to the world.

*This splendid piano was unveiled at the 1889 Exposition Universelle in Paris at the same time as the Eiffel Tower.*

Next door to Treasures, the Artist Gallery features musicians from nearly every genre you can think of from hip hop to country. Missed Woodstock? The MIM has it covered with instruments, costumes, memorabilia and video of that epic event thanks to donations by people who performed there including Carlos Santana, Joan Baez and John Sebastian.

*Memorabilia, musical instruments and concert performances by numerous artists who played the iconic festival help capture the spirit of Woodstock.*

*I saw the legendary drummer performing at New York City’s Rainbow Room many years ago though I don’t know if Buddy was playing this particular set of drums*.

The white, marine pearl Swingerland drum set the legendary Buddy Rich played many times on The Tonight Show hosted by Johnny Carson (also a drummer by the way) is here. So is the Steinway piano John Lennon composed Imagine on and the guitar Eric Clapton used to record Layla. Country music fans will find the Chet Atkin’s Signature electric archtop guitar donated by Duane Eddy and hear Glen Campbell strumming, singing and playing the bagpipes, via video at the MIM.

Photos, video, drums, even Tito Puente’s dazzling jacket are here along with one of the “Queen of Salsa” Celia Cruz’s gorgeous stage dresses and maracas. Cruz, a five-time Grammy -award winner sometimes performed and recorded with Puente.

Elvis Presley, Dick Dale, Black Eyed Peas, Johnny Cash and Maroon 5 are just a few of the artists sharing the spotlight in this enormous gallery which rotates its 40 exhibitions to include music icons from around the world.

*The King is among the legendary performers in the Artists Gallery, of course*!

In the Mechanical Music Gallery, the MIM has treasures ranging from intricate music boxes to player pianos to my personal favorite, the orchestrion named Apollonia. Built in 1926 in Antwerp, she is 25 feet wide, seven feet tall and weighs two tons. After retiring from a career touring the dance halls of Europe, Apollonia was refurbished in 1950 and found her way to the USA. Now she entertains MIM’s visitors daily at noon and 3 p.m. How extraordinary to experience the same music played on identical instruments audiences enjoyed nearly one hundred years ago!

*Apollonian entertains visitors daily at noon and 3 p.m. Don’t miss a chance to hear this performance!*

*Intricate music boxes, dancing puppets, player pianos and more fill the Mechanical Music Gallery.*

Upstairs, in the Geographic Galleries, you’ll tour the world through music—the bridge that connects us all. Start in Africa, where human civilization began, and wind your way through the continent from Angola to Zimbabwe.

*Start your journey in Africa, where human civilization began and prepared to be amazed at the sheer variety of instruments played on that continent.*

Stunning stringed instruments, drums, Nigerian bronze bells from the eighth century, an enormous 18- key xylophone from Ghana, Ngoni lutes from Mali, and more held our attention as we traveled from country to country learning about cultures, languages and the music people make a world away from our home. Move on to the Middle East then continue your tour through Asia.

In 17th century Japan, displaced Samuri warriors often became Komuso monks, wandering the countryside playing the shakuhachi. Wearing a basket over their head signified detachment from the material world.

*Take a musical journey through every country in the world at the MIM. Just about every instrument imaginable– is here in one gallery or another!*

*No area of the globe is left unexplored -even instruments from the subarctic are here!*

Cross the seas to Oceania and Latin America. Experience Europe’s musical treasures–opera, ballet and orchestral instruments and performances– and finally, explore genres from country to classical to jazz and even marching band music in North America. Who knew Elkhart, Indiana played such a significant role in our musical history?

This 48K Grand Jumbo sousaphone (left) was manufactured in Elkhart, IN, the home of most American band instrument companies. Master engraver Julian Stenberg created this for a nationwide promotional tour for the C.G. Conn company’s 50th anniversary.

Personally, I was astounded to see how musical instruments traveled and evolved across borders and through time. We saw bagpipes in one form or another, made from materials ranging from fabric to animal skin, not only from Scotland, but also Tunisia, Croatia, Slovakia, France, Spain, Romania and Sweden.

*Above are bagpipes from Tulum, Turkey while the instrument below is from the Iranian* *province of Hormozgan.*

Though closely associated with the Scottish Highlands, bagpipes have been around for 2,000 years and may have originated in Turkey, according to the MIM.

*Bagpipes may have originated in Turkey more than 2,000 years ago.* *This display shows wind, string and percussion instruments from Turkey’s countryside and urban areas.*

Don’t leave the MIM before stopping in the Experience Gallery where visitors of all ages are not only invited but encouraged to make their own kind of music.

*The gamelan shown here is displayed in the Geographic Galleries but there is also a gamelan available for visitors to play in the Experience Gallery. Give it a try!*

Drums are found in every country. These Turkish kettle drums from the 1920’s are made from copper covered in camel skin and are part of the **Treasures** exhibit. There’s a huge communal drum for visitors to play in the Experience Gallery.

Bang a gong, play a zither, try your hand at the theremin or Javanese gamelan. Join your friends around the communal drum and make a joyful noise! Express your own ‘Language of the Soul”—after all, that’s what this magnificent museum is all about. Learn more at mim.org.

Note: Treasures: Legendary Musical Instruments was a special exhibition that has closed since I originally posted this article, but the majority of the rare instruments highlighted in the exhibit are part of MIM’s permanent collection and can still be seen and experienced at the museum.

California’s High Desert Hidden Gems: Noah Purifoy’s Outdoor Desert Museum

I first learned about Noah Purifoy’s wondrous Outdoor Desert Museum while planning a trip to Joshua Tree National Park during the COVID pandemic. Museums, and most cultural outlets, were closed in Southern California where I live, and pretty much everywhere else, too. When I learned about an outdoor museum close to the town of Joshua Tree, I knew we had to go!

*Welcome to Noah Purifoy’s Outdoor Desert Museum of Assemblage Sculpture.*

After spending most of the day hiking in the strange but beautiful Joshua Tree National Park, we headed out for a look at another high desert gem—Noah Purifoy’s Outdoor Desert Museum of Assemblage Art. We drove through the small town of Joshua Tree, into the scrubby desert landscape, past large lots and small houses–more than a few surrounded by chain link fences. In this part of Southern California, pick-up trucks are far more popular than Porsches.

*The high desert landscape is the perfect setting for Mr. Purifoy’s assemblage art. Shipwrecked is in the foreground with White House to the left.*

Up and down the lonely roads we drove until our turn- off onto an unpaved road that ended in a dirt lot. A triumphal arch of tires spelling out W-E-L-C-O-M-E in a non- conformist way, let us know we had arrived.

*Please don’t jump on the Band Wagon, 1995. Tempting as it is, visitors are asked to refrain from touching or climbing on the sculptures.*

*Bowling balls play a starring role in a number of Mr. Purifoy’s sculptures.*

*Found materials of all kinds make up the monumental sculpture in the Outdoor Desert Museum, as in this work called Aurora Borealis.*

I have been fascinated by assemblage art for a long time. Created from found materials, assemblage art personifies the old saying, “One man’s trash is another’s treasure,” and shows how a creative mind can make something provocative, beautiful, and meaningful from goods that might otherwise have been tossed on the trash heap. Noah Purifoy’s Outdoor Desert Museum of Assemblage Sculpture is the embodiment of that.

*1996 Toilet Bowl Sculpture is just one of the 30 inventive and monumental assemblage sculptures on the 10-acre art site.*

Too often, we find ourselves exploring these out-of-the-way places alone. We were happy to see others here experiencing these amazing art installations.

*Purifoy’s work can be poignant and provocative. This piece is called White/Colored.*

*Homelessness and shelter are among the social themes Purifoy explores in his work.*

A renowned assemblage artist, Noah Purifoy first came to national attention with sculpture he created using burnt debris from the 1965 Watts Riots in Los Angeles. His work was part of 66 Signs of Neon, a landmark group exhibition that traveled across America and abroad from 1966- 1971.

*Prominently positioned, The White House includes plumbing ware and bowling balls. It took Purifoy three years to create.*

*Free brochures lead visitors on a self-guided tour of the 10-acre site. Docent-led visits for groups can be arranged through the Noah Purifoy Foundation.*

Purifoy was the founder and first director of the Watts Tower Art Center and was later appointed to the California Arts Council, a position he held for more than a decade. His work there included bringing art into California’s State Prison system under the Artists in Social Institutions program he initiated.

*This piece, called Kirby Express, was created from old Kirby vacuum cleaners and bicycle parts among other things.*

*Here’s Kirby Express from a different vantage point with Shipwrecked and Carousel to the left.*

*No Contest (Bicycles) is dwarfed by a Joshua Tree, the area’s namesake desert plant.*

Long a fixture on LA’s art scene, Purifoy, who was born in Alabama in 1917, moved to Joshua Tree in California’s high desert in 1989. He began populating his 10-acre sculpture park with works of all shapes and sizes using materials ranging from discarded toilets to tires and just about everything in between. Industrial materials, clothing, wood, metal, rubber, concrete and old appliances all found their way into Purifoy’s art.

*From the Point of View of the Little People, 1994.*

*Abstract, whimsical, inventive and thought provoking, Purifoy’s works are best experienced by a visit to his amazing desert museum.*

*Piles of old chairs became art in Purifoy’s wildly creative hands.*

From 1989 until his death in 2004, Purifoy worked to create a public art space that continues to attract visitors from across the country and around the world. Admission to the sculpture park is free but donations are welcome. The Outdoor Desert Museum is open daily.

*The Gas Station conveys a certain attitude. The White House is to the left.*

*Admission is free but donations are welcome.*

Purifoy’s work can be seen at the Whitney Museum of American Art in New York, Los Angeles County Museum of Art, National Gallery of Art in Washington, DC, as well as other prestigious art institutions here and abroad. These eminent museums have long since reopened their doors, but visitors to Southern California may well want to head to the high desert to experience Purifoy’s final and very impressive body of work. Visit the Noah Purifoy Foundation for more information.

Into the Woods –Bomarzo’s Monster Park

We made our way to Bomarzo’s Monster Park on a beautiful autumn day, early enough that the morning fog still hung over the woods adding a decidedly forbidding atmosphere to the place.

With its strange and beautiful sculptures, eerie wooded pathways and vertigo-inducing tipsy house, I wondered for a moment if Lewis Carroll had taken inspiration from Bomarzo for his Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland.

*The dragon symbolizes time and wisdom, rather than destruction. At Bomarzo, the dragon fights a dog, lion and wolf representing spring, summer and winter.*

While appearing completely contemporary, this unconventional garden near Viterbo, Italy was commissioned by Prince Pier Francesco “Vicino” Orsini in 1552. Known for their balance, order and harmony, classical 16^th century Italian gardens with their careful geometric designs and extravagant water features seemed to celebrate man’s control over nature. Not so, the wild and woodsy Bomarzo.

*Bomarzo’s winding, woodsy paths are full of surprises.*

*The giant jaws of the whale warn visitors away from the water.*

Created by architect Pirro Ligorio in the Mannerist style, this garden is almost a rebellion against order and a tribute to life’s unpredictability. That’s what makes it so much fun to visit.

*Proteus, Neptune’s son, comes from the legend of Glauco, a fisherman who became a sea god.*

Instead of being adjacent to or surrounding the owner’s villa like most gardens of the period, this one flourishes in a nearby wood, nearly hidden from view from the palace above.

*Il Sacro Bosco, the Sacred Wood, is the opposite of the well-ordered classical 16th century Italian garden.*

There is no rhyme or reason to this garden. There doesn’t seem to be a relationship between the sculptures and their placement in the park, though that could have everything to do with the fact that they were all carved from gigantic rocks where the stone stood.

*Statues were carved on-site from stones where they stood.*

Il Sacro Bosco or the Sacred Wood, as the Monster Park is also known, is home to mermaids, sphinx, dragons, nymphs, fountains, a giant tortoise, and a heroic Hercules, among other fantastical sculptures.

*The tortoise symbolizes the feminine powers of water and ancient knowledge.*

Originally the sculptures would have been painted in bright colors. None of that remains today though some pieces are covered in downy green moss. I was slightly disappointed to see the tortoise had recently had her nice coat of soft green moss removed, though she was still a striking figure.

*An elephant carrying a castle was a popular medieval symbol and reference to Hannibal’s use of elephants to invade the Italian peninsula.*

*This elephant, holding a wounded or dead soldier, represents Rome’s victories and defeats.*

Many of the Bomarzo’s sculptures have historical, religious and cultural significance. Some are meant to be puns or puzzles. Others may have had meanings which have long been lost over the nearly 500 years since the garden was created. The brochure we received with our tickets gave explanations for all of the 35 key sculptures, as well as serving as a guide through the park.

*The sleeping nymph, which represents purity in Greek mythology, is both human and divine.*

The Ogre, or L’Orco, king of the underworld, is at the center of the garden and one of the most popular sculptures at Bomarzo. I found a photo of surrealist artist Salvador Dali sitting in the “Mouth of Hell” in 1938! He was so inspired by the Monster Park that he made a short film about the gardens.

*A school group posed in front of the giant sculpture amid much jostling and laughter, clearly enjoying the monsters and whimsical creatures throughout the park.*

The inscription above the entrance says, “Abandon all thought,” a reference, and maybe a tribute, to Dante Alighiere’s Divine Comedy- Inferno, where a warning above the Gates of Hell reads, “Abandon all hope, ye who enter here.” Don’t be put off. Inside the mouth, visitors will find cool respite and a small built- in table and seats. It’s a perfect place for contemplation and perhaps a picnic.

*Just try to walk around inside the Leaning House without losing your balance!*

Another popular stop, the Leaning House doesn’t seem so disorienting until you get inside and try to explore the rooms. There’s not much to see other than the family crest and motto. It is a vertiginous experience at best and not a place to linger—purposefully, scholars think. Some believe that the house represents the falling fortunes of the Orsini family, but nearly 500 years on, the house still stands!

*Proserpina welcomes visitors to the hippodrome area.*

Hiding around every corner or peeking through the trees are heroic and monumental figures. Proserpina, wife of Pluto, stands in for Diana and Juno greeting visitors with open arms. An enormous Hercules—a protector of good, is shown subduing the evil Caucus. Ceres appears with her circle of babies.

*Hercules, protecting the poor, vanquishes Caucus, who stole food from them.*

Neptune towers over the basin, while the open jaws of a whale warn visitors away from the water. Nearby, a giant nymph is both human and divine– a reference to the sleeping Ariadne. There are Furies, a pegasus, dolphins, lions and other mythical and magical creatures throughout the garden.

*The Winged Fury is of Greek origin and also played an important role in Roman religion. The Furies were considered guardians of national glory and the fertility of the soil.*

There are large vases with inscriptions no longer decipherable, benches with messages in Latin, and much more that will surprise and delight around every turn.

*Some of the benches have Latin inscriptions.*

*Scholars think this sculpture represents Bacchus’s descent into hell, goblet in hand. Medusa’s head is carved into the bottom of the giant vase.*

Il Sacro Bosco was created as a memorial to Prince Orsini’s late wife, Guilia Farnese, of the wealthy Farnese family. Their money helped fund the garden, which her broken- hearted husband intended as a manifestation of his grief and a place of shock and surprise.

*Il Sacro Bosco was created as a tribute to Orsini’s late wife, Guilia Farnese.*

A Pegasus in the garden represents Orsini’s in-laws– the Farnese family. The Temple of Eternity was built 20 years after the original garden as a memorial to Guilia and was designed with roses associated with the Orsini family.

*Wander as you like, but if you follow the suggested trail in the park’s brochure you’ll see all of the key sculptures and sights in this fascinating garden.*

Visitors are welcome to wander freely through the paths, but following the trail outlined on the brochure’s itinerary will ensure that you won’t miss a single one of the extraordinary sculptures and sights waiting in the Sacred Wood at Bomarzo. While the traditional gardens of the period we visited– including Villa Farnese, Villa Lante and Villa D’Este–are stunning, Bomarzo is absolutely fascinating. We’ve never experienced anyplace like it!

Lisbon’s Beautiful Belem

The Belem district is a fascinating and historic area of Lisbon that ought to be on every traveler’s itinerary—and it appeared that it was on the Sunday we spent there! Packed with monuments, museums and many of Lisbon’s “must see” spots, it’s just about five miles from the downtown area. It’s easy to reach via bus, tram or cab. We took a 10 Euro taxi ride for the 20-minute trip from Lisbon’s city center. The tram costs less but takes nearly an hour and with so much to see, we opted to save time.

There’s plenty to see and do in Lisbon’s busy Belem area.

Belem was the launching point for many sea voyages during Portugal’s Age of Discovery. The Tower of Belem was the last thing sailors would see as they left port and the first site to welcome them home.

The Church of St. Jeronimos and its monastery are beautiful examples of the decorative Manueline architectural style.

Before setting off, many sailors would stop at the stunning Church of St. Jeronimos and its spectacular monastery to pray for a successful journey and a safe return. These gorgeous buildings are wonderful examples of the decorative Manueline architecture popular in Portugal in the late 1400s through 1500s.

St. Jeronimos and it’s spectacular monastery are among Lisbon’s most popular sites.

The entry fee for the monastery is 10 Euro and worth it. It’s stunning and surprisingly peaceful in spite of the crowds. Admission is free for the church. If you plan to attend mass, be punctual. We arrived late and no amount of pleading would make the guards open the church doors for us until services were over.

Visitors to the church can see the tomb of famed Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama and the memorial to writer Luis de Camoes.

Entry to the Church of St. Jeronimos is free but there is a fee for the monastery.

We were directed to the end of a very, very long line. After standing around for quite some time, we realized there were no lines at the other end of the building and decided to go check it out. That’s when we found the National Archeology Museum.

Avoid the long lines at St. Jeronimos by buying a combo ticket for the Archeology Museum next door for an extra two Euro.

Here’s a tip we wished we’d known–walk right past those long lines in front of the monastery and church and make your first stop in Belem the National Archeology Museum.

The museum is full of ancient treasures and antiquities, some dating back to the Iron Age.

Buy a combo ticket for the museum and the monastery (the monastery is actually in the same building as the museum). For an extra two Euro, or 12 Euro total, you can enjoy the museum’s terrific exhibitions and avoid the crowds. The museum is a treasure trove of Egyptian, Roman, Greek, and Moorish artifacts. After touring the galleries, you’ll go directly into the monastery from the museum without waiting on the ever-present line.

This was the first megalith we saw and it inspired us to seek out the Almendres Cromeleque, home to 95 of these fascinating stones near Evora in the Alentejo area.

The museum has a rich collection of Egyptian, Greek, Roman and Moorish art and antiquities. Be sure to visit the Room of Treasures in the museum. No photography is allowed in that area but the display of coins and jewelry from 1800 to 500 BC is impressive.

After touring the galleries in the National Archeology Museum, you’ll enter the Monastery directly without waiting on any additional lines.

This fascinating time line inside the monastery captures 500 years of world history in words and images.

In spite of the crowds, there are numerous serene spaces within the monastery perfect for quiet contemplation.

You may notice long lines around the bakery just up the street from the monastery. If you’ve been to Portland, Oregon, this may remind you of the lines around Voodoo Doughnuts. I’m always amazed by the patience people seem to have in their quest for particular baked goods, but back to Belem…

Lines for Casa Pasteis de Belem snake around the corner. Worth the wait? You decide.

This is the place that claims to have the original and the best Pasteis de Belem. These are little custard pastries in a flaky filo- like crust. Locals say these are good, but you’ll have to decide if they’re worth waiting for. We didn’t, but we haven’t ever waited for doughnuts either. They sell Pasteis de Belem in the Starbuck’s next door without the wait, though buying them there doesn’t quite have the same cachet. You can find these delicious pastries all over the country though they’re called Pasteis de Nata (nata is cream) or Pastel de Nata, if you’re only having one, everywhere else except Belem. Try one or two and remember to add a healthy shake of cinnamon and powdered sugar on top!

Time for lunch or dinner? Turn down this little street to find Enoteca de Belem.

If you’re hungry for a meal, we highly recommend the Enoteca de Belem (+351) 213 631 511 Travessa do Marta Pinto, 12. Located on a little alley off the main street in Belem, this is a terrific choice for lunch or dinner. It’s very small so book a table or prepare to be disappointed.

We were delighted with our lunch at Enoteca de Belem. Here’s a peak at the menu.

Sitting at the bar gave us a chance to learn about and taste delicious Portuguese wines.

We sat at the bar since we had missed our reservation time—the museum and monastery were so fascinating we spent far longer than we had anticipated. The bar turned out to be perfect for us because in addition to a fabulous lunch, we had a great chat and learned quite a bit about Portuguese wines and history.

The perfectly prepared scallops with cauliflower puree and quail eggs were as delicious as they looked.

The freshly caught grouper was the fish of the day. Served with “clam rice,” it was an incredibly flavorful dish.

Portuguese cuisine often pairs fish and pork. The tender grilled octopus and spicy chorizo was perfection on a plate.

This classic dessert, Papo de Anjo, reminded us of an upgraded rice pudding. Comfort food at its best!

Our lunch was incredible and one of the best meals we had in Lisbon. Try the scallops to start and the grouper or cod if they have it.

When we asked for the wine list, we were handed these vintage binoculars and instructed to look around and choose whatever we were interested in from the shelves above the bar. There was a printed list, as well, but selections change regularly– thus the binoculars.

We opted for wines by the glass so we could sample several. The staff were well- versed in the wide selection available and happy to make suggestions and answer questions.

The knowledgeable staff will be glad to help you match the appropriate wines to your food selections.

Sailboats and other pleasure craft ply the waters off the embarcadero. The Hippotrip looked like Lisbon’s version of the Boston Duck Tours. Could be fun, but we didn’t try it.

Next, take a walk along the water down to the Monument to the Discoveries, which honors Prince Henry the Navigator, and was built in 1960 to commemorate the 500^th anniversary of his death. Henry’s mother, Queen Filipa of Lancaster, Vasco da Gama, Magellan, King Manuel I and the poet Camoes are all depicted on the monument.

The busy waterfront is the perfect place to stroll and people watch. It’s possible to go inside the Monument to the Discoveries, which commemorates the 500th anniversary of the death of Henry the Navigator.

The Tower of Belem was the last bit of home Portuguese sailors saw as they set off to sea. It offers beautiful views but be prepared for long lines if you’d like to climb the 120 steps to the top.

Further on, you’ll see the famous Tower of Belem. It’s possible to climb 120 steps to the top of the tower for the views. Lines can be quite long. Let’s face it—there are lines for nearly everything you’ll want to see in this area so just be prepared for that. There’s an Atlas Hotel along the way with a nice terrace, perfect for an apperitivo if you’re ready for a break from touring– and the lines.

There is a lovely park near the waterfront and we happened to catch a good- sized open air market there on our visit.

On our walk back, we came upon an open air market selling everything from hand crafted ceramics, art and jewelry, to tea towels and mass-produced souvenirs. There was also a lively folk dance competition taking place in the park and we simply had to stop and watch for a while. It was delightful!

Troupe after troupe of talented folk dancers took the stage in the park. We joined the crowd to cheer them on.

Near the stage where the dancers competed, we spotted this pavilion. It was a 2012 gift from the Royal Thai Government to Portugal, celebrating 500 years of bilateral relations between the two nations.

We wished we had more time in Belem. We would like to have seen the Maritime Museum, Coaches Museum and the Ajuda Palace. Next time for sure!

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Check Your Documents

Are You a Trusted Traveler?

Back Up Plan

Get the App

Driving?

Book Your Rental Car Early

Car Services

Take the Train

Join Hotel Loyalty Programs

Create an Itinerary

Bring the Right Credit Cards

Cash is Not King– But You’ll Need Some

Buy Travel Insurance

Weather!

Don’t Check Luggage

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Some Final Advice

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Rolling On the River

Cultural Exchange

Cool Cars and Clothes

Go North

A Day in Denali

Go Play Outside

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Camogli- Under the Radar but Not for Long

The Abbey at San Fruttuoso

The Cinque Terre–Beautiful But…

Riomaggiore

Vernazza

Picture Perfect Portofino

Genoa

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