Family Fun

Seeking Serenity at Portland’s Spectacular Japanese Garden

Gorgeous grounds, stunning views and an authentic Japanese experience have been delighting visitors to Portland’s spectacular Japanese Garden since 1963. Now, the beautiful 12-acre oasis, which includes five separate gardens with plenty of peaceful seating areas for reflection, a Japanese Tea House, tranquil ponds, and meandering paths perfect for contemplation, has even more to offer. Last month the new $33.5 million Cultural Crossing opened to visitors.

Follow the footpaths, steps and bridges that lead to each of the separate and distinctive garden spaces within Portland’s Japanese Garden.

The new $33.5 million Cultural Crossings expansion project includes new exhibition space, library, tea house and additional garden areas, all designed to enhance the authentic Japanese experience for visitors.

Designed by respected architect Kengo Kuma, the Cultural Crossing’s new buildings provide the perfect showcase for traditional Japanese arts and culture and serve as a venue for family-friendly activities and interesting demonstrations. An already popular attraction is even more appealing with the new expansion project. No wonder the lines for tickets are long. Purchase tickets online and check-in at the membership desk, exchange your voucher for a ticket there, and avoid the serpentine lines that are sure to continue for some time.

Minutes away from Portland’s busy streets, the Portland Japanese Garden is an oasis of tranquility.

Many visitors take the complimentary shuttle up to the gardens and walk back down to the parking area along the paved pathways.

Visitors can either take a complimentary shuttle bus or walk up the pathway to the open and airy Japanese Arts Learning Center–the heart of the new project with performance space, library and classroom.

Young visitors take a break on the steps inside the new Jordan Schnitzer Japanese Arts Learning Center.

The ground level Tanabe Gallery currently hosts an exhibition of ceramics, calligraphy, and sculpture by former Japanese Prime Minister Hosokawa Morihiro.

A delightful display of ceramics, calligraphy, and sculpture by former Japanese Prime Minister Hosokawa Morihiro are currently on exhibit in the Tanabe Gallery and Pavilion Gallery.

The expansive display, Hosokawa Morihiro: The Art of Life, a Rebirth in Clay, continues in the Pavilion Gallery, which also includes a portable teahouse. Two additional “Art in the Garden” showcases, one featuring Kabuki costumes and the other, Noh masks and costumes, are scheduled for later in the year. The Japanese Garden will host related events and activities associated with both.

A portable tea house with the implements needed to perform a classic Japanese tea ceremony are part of the current exhibition. Noh masks and costumes and Kabuki costumes will be featured in the galleries later this year.

Now, to explore these magnificent gardens! The Strolling Pond Garden was our first stop, after a visit to the Learning Center and Gallery. Visitors can walk across the “iconic Moon Bridge” over the Upper Pond and enjoy the views.

Stroll the “Zig-Zag Bridge” over the Lower Pond which is surrounded by iris. It had not quite bloomed at the time of our visit, but was close. The aptly named Heavenly Falls provide the perfect backdrop to the Lower Pond and were a popular “selfie stop.”

The Heavenly Falls provide the perfect backdrop for contemplation or photo opps.

Follow the rough stepping stones along a lantern- lined path through the beautiful Japanese Tea Garden to the authentic Kashintei Tea House. Typically, the tea garden is a place to appreciate nature’s beauty and “the art of living in harmony” while leaving the cares of the world behind. This is certainly the case at the Portland Japanese Garden—it is so serene it’s easy to forget you are mere minutes from busy city streets.

Visitors are invited to leave their worldly cares behind when they explore the authentic tea garden and Kashintei Tea House.

The Kashintei Tea House, which is where tea demonstrations and related events are held, was brought to Portland from Japan and reassembled here.

Contact the Japanese Garden to learn when tea demonstrations and other events are scheduled for the Kashintei Tea House.

The Portland Japanese Garden has a lovely Sand and Stone Garden, created by Professor Takuma Tono, the Garden’s chief designer in the 1960s. These “dry landscape” gardens are sometimes called “Zen Gardens” because they are often found at Zen monasteries and are meant to invite quiet contemplation. The Sand and Stone Garden here illustrates an important Japanese concept—“the beauty of blank space.”

Enjoy your moments of Zen at the Sand and Stone Garden.

Recent additions to Portland’s Japanese Garden include the Natural Garden, which features local plants not typically associated with Japanese gardens and depicts seasonal change.

The cherry blossoms were in full bloom during our recent visit to Portland’s Japanese Garden.

The small courtyard garden (Tsubo-Niwa) and the Ellie M. Hill Bonsai Terrace are both new and located near the Tateuchi Courtyard in the Cultural Village.

Visitors are treated to an exquisite display of bonsai at the new Ellie M.Hill Bonsai Terrace.

The Flat Garden, which highlights each of the four seasons with specific plantings and trees is popular with visitors. The weeping cherry tree on the left represents spring while a 100- year old maple depicts autumn.

The Flat Garden is meant to be viewed from a single angle either from inside a home, where the door or window serves as a frame, or from a verandah, as these visitors are doing.

The gravel stands in for water, signifying summer in the Flat Garden.

After you’ve finished strolling around the gorgeous gardens and interesting exhibitions, stop in and sample the fare at the new Umami Café. During our visit, just a week after the April 2 reopening, the café was not yet serving food but was offering complimentary samples of four delicious teas from Tokyo-based Jugetsudo Tea Company. (Update– Light snacks and sweets were available on subsequent visits.)

Stop in the new Umami Cafe for a restorative cup of tea and authentic Japanese sweets and snacks.

During our visit, guests were offered four different and delicious teas as part of a complimentary tea tasting.

When His Excellency Nobuo Matsunaga, the former Ambassador of Japan to the United States, visited the Portland Japanese Garden, he proclaimed it “the most beautiful and authentic Japanese garden in the world outside of Japan,” according to the organization.

Tranquil settings such as this one near the Upper Pond, have been drawing visitors since 1963.

They currently report more than 350,000 visitors annually, a number that will surely grow with the addition of the new Cultural Crossroads expansion. Be sure to add this spectacularly beautiful and serene spot to your Portland itinerary. For updated information on tickets, events and hours click here.

Back to (Ski) School— Hitting the Slopes at Deer Valley

It had been more than 25 years since I last slid my feet into skis but when the chance came to join some friends on their annual ski trip to Park City, Utah, I took it. This would be my first time to visit Utah. A short Delta flight delta.com from San Diego and then an Uber had us in Park City in no time.

There is lodging ranging from hotel rooms to home rentals at all price points in and around Park City. We stayed at a friend’s home in this beautiful area close to both Park City Mountain and Deer Valley.

We set off to get provisions for the house and made a quick trip to Christy Sports Ski and Snowboard Rentals www.christysports.com where my friends had reserved their equipment. Book your gear in advance online and you’ll save about 15 percent. There are numerous rental outlets to choose from in Park City and the ski resorts have their own shops and rental facilities, too. Check around for best prices.

Downtown Park City has plenty of stores, boutiques, galleries and restaurants for every taste and budget. You’ll get the best value in ski gear rentals with an advance booking online at places like Christy’s, which is outside of town.

We had a delicious dinner at the Blind Dog www.blinddogpc.com on our first night. It’s a casual restaurant popular with locals and visitors with an expansive menu sure to please most. There are salads, seafood and steak dishes to choose from, as well as both gluten free and vegetarian options. There is also a sushi menu available, which several in our group chose.

The Blind Dog has lots of menu options including gluten free and vegetarian selections.

Everything was fresh and tasty and the service attentive.The Blind Dog’s “Whine List” has a very good selection with plenty of by- the- glass options, beers, cocktails and sakes. The restaurant also has a gift shop with all manner of Blind Dog merchandise.

Indulge in some after dinner shopping at Blind Dog in Park City, UT.

The next morning we were off to Deer Valley Resort. There wasn’t as much snow as in years past, but the mountains were beautiful and I was excited to start my ski adventure.

Deer Valley is a full- service ski resort with lodging, restaurants, shops, gear rentals and a terrific ski school.

The others were planning to ski both Deer Valley www.deervalley.com and Park City www.parkcitymountain.com during our time there, but I was advised to start at Deer Valley. Their ski school is highly regarded and after my lengthy hiatus from the mountains, lessons were definitely in order. Note: Deer Valley is for skiers only–snowboarders are welcome at Park City Mountain.

Park City Mountain welcomes snowboarders and skiers. Free buses shuttle visitors between the mountain and downtown Park City.

The Deer Valley www.deervalley.com ski school staff suggested I purchase a beginner’s day pass, which allows access up to Silver Lake –about mid-mountain and high enough for me. A beginner’s pass was only $35 while a full day pass was $120 for adults. There are discounts available for seniors, children and military. You must have a pass to take lessons.

You must have a ski pass to take lessons at Deer Valley. The beginner’s ticket is perfect if you’re only planning to go mid-mountain.

I also opted to rent my equipment at Deer Valley. You can purchase your lift ticket, equipment rental and pay for lessons at the rental shop—one stop shopping. Since I chose the three-hour afternoon ski lesson, I was also counseled to wait until noon to get my rentals—great advice since the price is reduced at that time. I found out later that my rental also included a complimentary subscription to Ski Magazine.

Deer Valley has a highly regarded ski school and lived up to its reputation with patient, knowledgeable instructors.

By 12:40 p.m. I was fully outfitted and making my way to join the others in my “Max 4” lesson, so-called because there is a maximum of three other students plus an instructor. Students are matched as much as possible based on level of skill, age, etc. I was with three other women and all had been back on the slopes far more recently than I. Mike Wirt, from upstate New York, was our excellent and patient instructor. He critiqued with kindness, gave practical pointers and instilled confidence in all of us.

Being back on skis after a 25- year hiatus was fun and exhilarating. Yes, I fell a few times but that was no surprise!

I was a little nervous when our instructor took my poles away but it actually helped me improve—immediately. Before long, I was skiing with a new found confidence and while I fell a few times (including a pretty spectacular wipeout that involved a fence), I thoroughly enjoyed myself. I had a wonderful and exhilarating afternoon, and thanks to Mike’s excellent instruction, I’m looking forward to my next adventure on the slopes.

In addition to skiing, you can book snowshoeing and sleigh ride excursions at Deer Valley or rent skates at Park City and take a few turns on their on-site ice rink.

Deer Valley Resort has numerous options for dining and refreshments. I enjoyed a restorative hot cocoa at Deer Valley, Etc., the coffee shop on the plaza level, and a casual lunch at the cafeteria there. My friends dined at Silver Lake Restaurant, which they raved about, but my lesson time precluded meeting up with them mid-mountain.

There are also shops to explore and a handy locker room to stow your stuff while you’re on the slopes at Deer Valley. Lockers are $3 for one- time access. The attended bins are $5 for all day access and can be shared. This is the way to go if you want to ditch outer layers as the day warms up. You may also store your skis overnight with the attendants. Park City Mountain also offers a variety of dining and shopping opportunities as well, and an on-site outdoor ice rink.

Complimentary buses take visitors from Deer Valley and Park City Mountain to downtown Park City where a free trolley is available.

Local transportation is convenient and complimentary— free shuttle buses take visitors into town, up to Silver Lake, to Park City Mountain and all around the area. There’s also a free trolley that traverses Park City’s Main Street.

The helpful people at Deer Valley’s information booth are happy to assist with transportation, excursions and dining recommendations. In addition to skiing, shopping and dining, it is also possible to book sleigh rides and snowshoeing outings at Deer Valley. The lack of snow precluded us from those activities last time, but next season looks promising!

Treasures of Berlin’s Museum Island

Take a stroll through the Brandenburg Gate, down Unter den Linden, to the banks of the River Spree. There you’ll find some of the world’s most intriguing and important cultural treasures—the Ishtar Gate, the bust of Nefertiti and so many extraordinary antiquities, classical sculpture and masterworks, it is impossible to imagine they could all be in one place—but they are—Berlin’s Museum Island.

Museumsinsel http://www.smb.museum is home to five separate historical museum buildings, each designed by a well-regarded architect of the time and now part of a UNESCO world heritage site. Here you will find the Pergamonmuseum, Altes (Old) Museum, Alte Nationalgalerie, the Bode-Museum, and the Neues (New) Museum.

The museums on Berlin’s Museumsinsel are a treasure trove of important paintings, sculpture, and antiquities from around the globe.

According to Visit Berlin, more than 3 million people come each year to view the collections that range from prehistory to 20^th century art. Savvy travelers will want to purchase a Museum Pass, which provides entry to 50 major and lesser-known museums, including the five on Museum Island, over three consecutive days for one low fee. The price was 24 Euro when we visited in November. Passes are available at Berlin Tourist Info points, in the museums, and online at Shop.visitberlin.com.

The magnificent Ishtar Gate, believed to date from 170 AD, was dedicated to Zeus and Athena. It was brought to Berlin from Western Turkey in 1903.

The long lines and crowded galleries attest to the fact that the Pergamon Museum is on nearly every visitor’s short list of places to visit in Germany’s capitol city. It should be. The magnificent Pergamon Altar, Ishtar Gate, and marvelous sculpture and other works from ancient Sumeria, Babylon, Assyria, and modern day Iraq, Turkey and Syria are all on display here. Restoration is underway on the Ishtar Gate, but it remains open for viewing. The Pergamon Altar was closed for restoration during our recent visit and will reopen in 2019. We were fortunate to see it several years ago.

Detail from the Processional Way, which leads to the Ishtar Gate, at the Pergamon.

Stunning Roman mosaics cover the floor in the gallery that contains the Market Gate of Miletus, built in the 2nd century AD in Turkey and excavated and brought to Berlin in the early 1900s.

The stunning Aleppo Room at the Pergamon, seen through protective glass walls.

Facade of the Caliph Palace Mshatta from Amman/Jordan from the 8th century. The 33 meter long, 5 meter high facade was brought to Berlin in 1903 to the Bode Museum. In 1932 it was reconstructed in the Pergamon.

We practically had the galleries to ourselves when we visited the Bode-Museum in November. This beautiful museum boasts art from the Byzantine and Roman Empires, a spectacular sculpture collection spanning from the early Middle Ages to the late 18^th century, and one of the most extensive numismatic collections in the world. We could not understand why the Bode wasn’t full of people enjoying these art treasures.

Pedro Roldan’s Our Lady of Sorrows (Mater Delorosa) at the Bode-Museum.

The Bode-Museum is known for it’s sculpture collection. Friezes, sacred art and other cultural treasures are also on display.

Don’t miss the extensive numismatic collection at the Bode. It’s one of the most comprehensive in the world.

The Bode also has a lovely café where we enjoyed a delicious and very reasonably priced lunch along with views over the Spree. The cafe balcony overlooks the museum’s grand entrance below.

The comfortable cafe at the Bode was perfect for a light lunch.

Save room for dessert!

If Impressionist works are more to your liking, visit the Alte Nationalgalerie, home to 19^th century works by Renoir, Manet, Monet, and Cezanne, Adolph von Menzel and other well regarded artists of that time period. The Alte Nationalgalerie was the third museum to open on Museum Island.

The Alte Nationalgalerie is home to a fine collection of 19th century paintings– part of Berlin’s State Art Collection.

Housed in one of Berlin’s most impressive neoclassical buildings, the Altes Museum was dedicated in 1828 by Friedrich Wilhelm III for “the study all antiquities and the free arts”. The museum’s permanent collection centers on classic antiquities covering Etruscan, Roman and Greek art and includes urns, vases, sarcophagi, friezes, pottery and sculpture.

The Altes Museum is a popular destination for student and tour groups.

The 3300 year-old bust of Nefertiti is among the highlights at the Neues Museum, or New Museum. After sustaining significant damage during World War II, the building, which was designed by Friedrich August Stuler and constructed between 1843 and 1855, was abandoned. In 2003, extensive restoration began and the museum opened in 2009 with three main collections—Egyptian art from the Egyptian Museum and Papyrus Collection, prehistoric objects from the Museum for Prehistory and Early History, and classical antiquities. Visitors will find works from around the globe including the Middle East, North Africa, and Northern Europe at the Neues Museum.

For updated information on each of the museums on Berlin’s Museum Island and details on permanent collections, temporary exhibitions, admission, hours and directions, please visit http://www.smb.museum.

Note: The banner image is the Cathedral of Berlin known also as Berlin Dom, located on Museum Island. In addition to church services, the Berlin Dom is open for tours. Numerous concerts and other events are also held there throughout the year. To the right is the Berlin TV Tower, constructed by the Soviets during the Cold War and now a popular tourist destination.

Exploring San Francisco’s Mission District

It’s easy to spend your entire day just wandering around the Mission District. There’s someplace inviting to eat and drink every few feet, interesting shops, galleries, independent bookstores (there are still a few left) and of course, the Mission Dolores, for which the area is named.

One of many inviting places to stop for a bite in the Mission District.

Our itinerary included some of all of the above. First, lunch at the ever-popular Pizzeria Delfina. We’ve enjoyed many delicious dinners at Delfina www.delfinasf.com, a lively, casual Italian restaurant that many say marked the beginning of the Mission District’s popularity as a dining destination back in 1998 when Craig and Annie Stoll first opened their doors. Today, we’re looking for lunch, and Delfina serves dinner only, so it’s Pizzeria Delfina (right next door) for lunch.

The original Pizzeria Delfina is right next door to the restaurant and has sidewalk tables.

With Delfina owner Craig Stoll.

There is almost always a lengthy line of hungry folks waiting for the pie at Pizzeria Delfina www.pizzeriadelfina.com. No reservations are accepted but there is a chalkboard right inside the small space– write your name and the number in your party then stand on line and wait your turn. Watch the pizzaoli as you wait—it’ll be your turn soon enough!

Lunchtime at Pizzaria Delfina.

The menu has a nice variety of pizzas with perfect thin and crunchy crusts (puffy on the edges—just like I like it), salads, antipasti and some desserts. There is limited seating inside but there are also some tables on the sidewalk. Wine and beer are available along with soft drinks. Service is friendly and pizzas are delivered to your table prontissimo.

Everything on the simple menu is fresh and delicious.

Perfect pizza– puffy, crunchy crust and best quality toppings.

If pizza is not what you’re after, Tartine www.tartinebakery.com is right on the corner. When we were loitering around the closed Pizzaria Delfina one sad Monday—the only day they are not open, owner Craig Stoll directed us to Tartine— one of his neighborhood favorites.

Crowds queue for Tartine’s pastries, breads and hot pressed sandwiches.

Diners in the back of the room can watch the bakers at work.

Superb sandwiches, salads, light meals and beautiful pastries are available in this small storefront, which also almost always has a line, especially on the weekends. If you grab a table near the back, you can watch the bakers at work and enjoy the heady aroma of baking bread.

If you haven’t satisfied your sweet tooth, walk a few blocks over to Valencia St. for dessert and learn how chocolate is made at Dandelion Small- Batch Chocolate.This café and factory has organized tours (book online at www.dandelionchocolate.com) but even if you haven’t been able to reserve a formal tour, it’s easy to see the chocolate makers at work in the open kitchen area and they are happy to answer questions.

Reserve a tour of Dandelion’s chocolate making facility online.

The current roaster can handle five kilos of cacao beans. The new facility will have a 50 kilo roaster.

We couldn’t join a tour but Lisa Vega, executive pastry chef, was kind enough to show us around and explain the chocolate making process from bean procurement (high quality, single source beans from numerous countries including Ecuador, Madagascar, Belize, and Venezuela), to sorting, roasting, winnowing, melanging, blocking, tempering, and finally, wrapping the bars for sale.

Executive Pastry Chef Lisa Vega was happy to show us around.

Dandelion’s chocolate makers create small batch chocolates everyday.

Their chocolates are made from two ingredients only– cacao and sugar.

After you’ve satisfied your curiosity, sample the wares while you wait to place your order for a delicious cocoa or coffee drink and something sweet to eat. There are plenty of tempting items both to enjoy at the café and to take home.

It isn’t easy to choose!

Complimentary samples are available of most of the single source chocolates.

Dandelion Chocolate also has a small kiosk in the Ferry Building, which sells their tasty products, books and other chocolate-related merchandise. The Ferry Building location is at the same end of the building as Miette Patisserie www.miette.com and Humphrey Slocombe Ice Cream www.humphreyslocombe.com— just across the way from Slanted Door’s take away place, Out the Door www.outthedoors.com.

Soon chocolately drinks like these will also be available at the Ferry Building.

Dandelion has plans for a cocoa café there as well, so you can enjoy their delicious drinks even if you don’t make it to the Mission.

Say cheese– at Mission Cheese.

If it’s cheesy goodness you’re craving, check out Mission Cheese www.missioncheese.net. This little shop is across from the “parklet” on Valencia and just two doors down from Dandelion Chocolate. Sample and purchase a wide variety of cheeses both domestic and imported, or make a meal of it with their gooey mac n’ cheese, a pressed cheese sandwich, charcuterie or a cheese flight. They also offer a fine selection of wine, beer and ciders, plus coffee, teas and dessert.

There’s plenty to see and do in the Mission.

Need pirate supplies? Pop into 826 Valencia St. in the Mission www.826valencia.org It’s the only “independent pirate supply store” in San Francisco.

Stop in to 826 for pirate supplies and to support young writers’ programming.

There you’ll find an assortment of pirate paraphernalia including “Scurvy Be Gone,” pirate flags, booty chests, tattoo removers (metal brushes aka “the low cost option”), looking glasses, maps, eye patches, tee shirts, books and much, much more.

Everyday is “Talk like a Pirate Day.”

In the back room, you’ll see what makes this space so important—it’s the free writing/tutoring lab author and 826 Valencia co-founder Dave Eggers began in the storefront in 2002, along with educator Ninive Calegari.

The writing/tutoring lab is the heart of 826 Valencia.

826 Valencia is a not-for-profit organization dedicated to supporting underserved Bay Area students ages six to 18 by working with them to develop their writing skills. According to the 826 Valencia’s website, the group serves more than 6,000 students annually thanks to their 1,700 Bay Area volunteers. They also have an outreach program for teachers. Books by the young authors, including numerous anthologies, are available for sale, as are quarterly subscriptions to the young writers’ work. For more information on in-store events, volunteer and donation opportunities, and the writing programs, visit www.826valencia.org. Proceeds from all sales in the pirate shop support the free writing programs, so stop by and pick up a few treasures, matey.

Support independent booksellers.

Borderlands Bookstore www.borderlands-books.com is also on Valencia and home to new and used sci-fi, mystery, horror and fantasy titles. Independent bookstores like these are getting increasingly hard to find, and in fact, Borderlands was in danger of closing earlier this year due to the dramatic increase in minimum wage now required by the state of California. A community meeting and the clever idea to sell 300 $100 sponsorships have kept the doors open so far.

Grab a cup of coffee with your sci-fi.

Borderlands has special events including author readings and signings and a nice café right next door, too. I always like to support independent booksellers and encourage everyone else to do so. If you’re in the neighbor and your shelves are looking a little empty, stop in and buy a book or two.

The Mission is named for the beautiful Mission Dolores.

Finally, a visit to the actual Mission www.missiondolores.org, the oldest intact building in San Francisco. As we mentioned earlier, the Mission District takes its name from the Mission San Francisco de Asis established by Father Junipero Serra in 1776, but also commonly called Mission Dolores because of a nearby creek, Arroyo de los Dolores or “Creek of Sorrows.”

The gorgeous painted wooden ceiling is one of the highlights at Mission Dolores.

If the Mission Dolores seems familiar, it’s probably because you’ve seen it in the movies. Alfred Hitchcock’s Vertigo with Kim Novak and Jimmy Stewart was filmed here in 1957. Visitors are welcome, and for a small fee, can tour the church with it’s brightly painted wooden ceiling and alter piece, outbuildings and gardens, as well as the small cemetery, which was the final resting place of missionaries and parishioners alike.

Visit the tranquil gardens.

There are antique vestments, a diorama depicting how the mission functioned, paintings and Native American artifacts on display. There is also a small gift shop with handicrafts, devotional candles, rosary beads, prayer cards and Alfred Hitchcock bobble heads—really!

A tribute to “Vertigo.”

Take a few hours, an afternoon, or the whole day, and explore this fascinating area of San Francisco. Buy some books. Enjoy a meal or a drink. Pick up some chocolate, cheese or even a bobble head while you’re there!

Seattle: Whirlwind Weekend in the Emerald City

Art, food and fun highlighted our three-day weekend in the Emerald City. We started off our Saturday morning with a monorail ride from the central shopping area to the Center City area, home of the iconic Space Needle. The monorail, which was built for the 1962 World’s Fair, costs just $3.00 and is only $1.50 for seniors, children under 12, disabled, and active duty military.

It’s a quick but fun ride on Seattle’s monorail.

The trip takes only minutes between Westlake Center Station at 5^th and Pine Streets and The Seattle Center Station. Purchase your ticket at the kiosk or from the cashier as you enter the train. The monorail runs every seven minutes or so from 8:30 a.m. on weekends (7:30 a.m. during the week) until 11 p.m.

Sonic Bloom greets visitors walking to EMP or Chihuly Garden and Glass. The “sunflowers” move and emit sound.

The monorail drops you off steps from at the Space Needle, Chihuly Garden and Glass and MoPOP Museum (formerly called Experience Music Project).

Seattle’s iconic Space Needle was built for the 1962 World’s Fair.

We’d been to the Space Needle on previous visits so headed right to the Chihuly Garden and Glass.

There’s a reason Chihuly Garden and Glass is on everyone’s Top 10 list. Don’t miss it!

We should have bought our tickets online—the lines were long for the cashiers inside and at the outdoor kiosks, and cost more than the online price. Plan ahead! Once you have your ticket and have reached the admission area, ask to have your arm stamped so that you can return in the evening (6 p.m. to 10 p.m.) to view these magnificent glass works illuminated. The sun sets quite late in Seattle during the summer months so keep that in mind when planning your return visit.

Prepare to be amazed. Detail of Chihuly’s Sealife Tower.

The Chihuly Garden and Glass is included in Seattle’s City Pass so if you plan to visit more than one of the included attractions—yes, the Space Needle is one of them—you may want to opt for the City Pass. You’ll save money and time since you won’t wait on line.

Tabac Basket in the Northwest Room.

Once inside, be prepared to be awed. There is a reason Chihuly Garden and Glass is on everyone’s “must see” list. We heard more than a few “wows” as soon as we stepped into the first gallery. Dale Chihuly’s glass art works are artistic, whimsical and beyond stunning.

Mille Fiori-– A thousand flowers- delight the senses.

These photos cannot capture the splendid forms, movement, intricacy and vibrant colors in Chihuly’s work but they do give an hint of what you’ll experience at Chihuly Garden and Glass. It is a magical place.

Persian Ceiling floods the room with color from above.

It seems as you move from gallery to gallery the works get progressively more beautiful and intricate. The lighting, staging and even the music in the galleries combine to create a magnificent experience.

Ikebana and Float Boats capture the viewer’s imagination.

A stroll through the gorgeous gardens is another delight. The art is so beautifully integrated in the various plantings that you’ll want to linger.

A view in the garden.

Northwest timber is integrated in the glass garden.

We had the added benefit of a spectacular day—clear, blue skies and temperatures in the mid-70s. The soothing background music being performed by a gentleman playing the Eyhu on the street just outside the garden added to our enjoyment.

Soothing music further enhanced our enjoyment of the gardens.

The works on display are included in a fairly comprehensive catalog titled, Chihuly Garden and Glass, available in the gift shop in the lobby. It is one of many available volumes featuring Mr. Chihuly’s art. In addition to the usual museum gift shop items like books and calendars featuring the artist’s work, original pieces of Chihuly’s glass art are also on offer and priced from $5,000.

This is no ordinary gift shop.

A spectacular souvenir.

If you’ve worked up an appetite after your stroll through the garden, head over to the Seattle Center Armory a few steps away. Originally built in 1939 to house the 146^th artillery and its half-ton tanks, it was repurposed for the 1962 World’s Fair and became the city’s first vertical shopping mall, called the Food Circus.

Once home to an artillery unit and half-ton tanks, the Armory now features food and family fun.

Today, in addition to a public space that hosts more than 3,000 free family entertainment and cultural events each year, you’ll find a food court that’s got something for everyone. Though Starbuck’s and Subway do have a presence here, they share the main floor with more interesting offerings from the likes of Eltana’s Wood- Fired Bagel Café, Seattle Fudge, MOD Pizza, Kabab, Cool Guys Fry Bar, Ceres Roasting Company, Bigfood BBQ, Quincy’s (burgers and seafood) , Blue Water Taco, Plum Pantry (vegan and organic selections), The Confectional and Skillet Counter.

The Seattle Center Armory is a busy place at lunchtime.

Mediterranean street food, beef baracoa, fish tacos, Belgian style fries, individual cheesecakes, pizza, vegan fare, and a terrific fried chicken sandwich are among the tantalizing possibilities we deliberated for lunch.

So many choices…

We chose Skillet Counter where the Fried Chicken Sammy with a fennel seed crust, kale, and jalapeno aioli on a potato roll called out to my traveling companions. I had a delicious curried carrot soup and a salad. We met Chef Mike “Mookie” who kindly shared his recipe for the soup and the aioli. Looking forward to whipping up some of that at home!

Skillet Counter’s Chef Mike aka “Mookie”

If you’ve got little ones in tow—you’re in luck—Seattle’s Children’s Museum is just downstairs. Here you’ll find interactive exhibitions, hands on, and age appropriate activities for children ages 10 months to 10 years.

Seattle Children’s Museum is lots of fun for the little ones.

After our satisfying lunch at Skillet Counter, we headed down towards Elliott Bay to the Olympic Sculpture Park, part of the Seattle Art Museum. So much to see and do in the Emerald City!

The Museum of Flight: An Aviation Adventure

Air Force One, the Concorde, the Space Shuttle Trainer, the first fighter plane, and many more remarkable aircraft are just a short drive south of Seattle in Tukwila, WA, home of the largest private non-profit aviation museum in the West.

Seaplanes to space craft are all on display at the Museum of Flight.

The Museum of Flight http://www.museumofflight.org is located at the King County International Airport on Boeing Field and has more than 150 aircraft plus interactive exhibitions, rare photographs, films, newsreels, memorabilia and much more. Exhibits take visitors on a fascinating journey from the earliest days of aviation, to the moon, and back to the present.

Military aircraft make up a significant part of the Museum’s collection.

After purchasing tickets inside the Museum of Flight, come back outside and climb aboard some of the most iconic aircraft to ever take flight. The outdoor exhibits close before the museum does.

The very first Air Force One jet.

Just outside on the Boeing Field, the first jet used as Air Force One, a specially constructed Boeing 707-120 called SAM (Special Air Missions) 970, is open for touring. Presidents Eisenhower, Kennedy, Johnson and Nixon and numerous dignitaries traveled the world aboard this particular aircraft. Kennedy’s pipe rack, Johnson’s hat rack, the safe where the president’s secret nuclear codes were kept, “Press Section” seating and the president’s private quarters are all on view.

This area was the president’s private sitting area and popular for naps, we were told.

Personal memorabilia from several presidents are still onboard.

The world’s fastest commercial jet, one of only 20 Concordes ever built, is on display outside the Museum, too. Courtesy of British Airways, guests can tour this compact aircraft. We were surprised at just how narrow the cabin was.

One of only 20 Concordes manufactured.

Speed was more important than spaciousness on the Concorde.

At the other end of the spectrum, guests can visit Boeing’s 787 Dreamliner, one of the most fuel efficient commercial airliners to take to the skies, according to the company.

A wide array of aircraft are on display and open for touring. Helpful docents are on hand at most.

There’s plenty of room to relax on this Boeing 787, at least in the forward cabins.

Also on the field is a US Air 737, which now serves as a theater for those interested in viewing Time Flies: Century of Flight.

Back inside the Museum, guests can trace the history of aviation from its earliest days right up to the present. The Red Barn, where the Boeing Company began, is part of the Museum today and gives guests an excellent historical perspective on the development of commercial aviation.

Inside the Red Barn.

Visitors can learn about the men and women at the forefront of aviation in America.

Rare photographs, news stories, film clips and more tell the story of flight.

Memorabilia from Boeing’s beginning.

The Museum has displays of every imaginable aircraft from the Taylor Aerocar III—AKA the “car plane”, which actually did take flight as a film clearly shows; to all manor of military aircraft, including the first fighter plane, the Italian built Caproni Ca.20; to planes used to deliver mail in Alaska and newspapers in the Midwest and much more.

The Aerocar was one of my favorite aircraft. The wings folded into a handy trailer for driving after landing.

There is a hole in the floor of the plane for the pilot to drop newspapers through.

There are even miniature planes. The Holtgrewe WWII Model Collection has more than 400 1/72 scale models of military aircraft used by most of the countries who became combatants in the second world war. Another marvelous miniature is the 1/10 scale model of the Montgolfier Brothers’ Balloon on display in the Museum’s lobby.

A model of a Montgolfier Brothers Balloon greets visitors in the lobby.

Military craft from many nations attract visitors’ attention.

A Vietnam War era helicopter.

The U.S. Space Program is well represented, too. Visitors can track America’s race to space from its earliest days to the present. There are photographs, magazine and newspaper articles, films and news reels, exhibits on the animals used in space program, space suits worn by U.S. Astronauts and Soviet Cosmonauts, and a vast assortment of memorabilia from moon rocks to the cowboy boots worn by a famous test pilot. Apollo 17 Mission Models and the only Mars Viking lander still here on Earth are also at the Museum.

Here’s how the cosmonauts suited up for space.

Primates and pups launched before our first astronauts.

Guests can also walk through the Space Shuttle Trainer Crew Compartment where U.S. astronauts trained for every Shuttle mission. A separate 30- minute tour of the Trainer is available for an additional fee for visitors 10 years and older. Tours of the Boeing Field are also offered for an additional fee.

Apollo 17 models are just some of the fascinating exhibits on space exploration.

There are numerous flight simulators, exhibits on every aspect of aviation including rocketry and “spacebots”, a research library, aviation advertising, and so much more for visitors to see.

Aviation advertising from the days when flying was fun.

An American Airlines advertisement.

There is so much to see and experience at the Museum that many visitors will not be able to enjoy all that is on offer in one day. Happily, discounted return tickets are available so take your time and come back again.

Art, Yoga and More at Seattle’s Frye Museum

Welcome to the Charles and Emma Frye Art Museum.

Charles and Emma Frye began collecting art in 1893 focusing primarily on French and German artists from the 19^th and early 20^th centuries. The couple built an impressive Founding Collection of 230 paintings, now on permanent display at their namesake museum in Seattle’s Capitol Hill area. The museum is open to the public at no charge, as the Fryes intended when they established the Charles and Emma Frye Free Public Art Museum in 1952.

The museum has expanded and been updated since it opened at its current location in 1952.

The Fryes had a particular interest in German painters of the mid-19^th Century Munich School including Wilhelm Leibl, Franz von Lenbach and Max Slevogt whose works, along with other prominent painters of the period, are part of the Founding Collection.

Henry Raschen’s 1913 portraits of Emma and Charles Frye hang in the Frye Salon.

The Frye’s Permanent Collection includes not only those works collected by Charles and Emma, but also later acquisitions made by the Frye Foundation. These later aquisitions expanded the collection to include American artists as well as European painters other than the French and German artists the couple built their original collection upon.

Acquisitions by the Frye Foundation expanded the collection to include American artists.

Gilbert Stuart and John Singleton Copley’s Colonial Period paintings hang alongside the American Realism works of Winslow Homer and Thomas Eakins. Mary Cassatt, James McNeil Whistler, and John Singer Sargent are among the ex-pat painters whose Impressionist works are displayed.

Paintings are hung as they once were in the Frye home gallery.

Portrait of Chief Seattle by Henry Raschen, 1916.

The vast collection of paintings covers every wall in the Frye Salon with the works hung as they once were in the Frye’s home gallery. The Frye Salon is reminiscent of Boston’s Isabella Gardener Stewart Museum. In other words, there is not much space between the works and they are not hung in any apparent order— historical, religious and allegorical paintings hang beside portraits, landscapes and seascapes. There are several copies of a hardcover guide available to visitors in the gallery that identifies and describes each work and artist.

Visitors reference gallery guide to identify paintings and artists.

The helpful guide is available only in the gallery. There are several other books about the museum and its collection for sale in the shop, but not the gallery guide.

In addition to the Permanent Collection, there are several changing contemporary exhibitions.

The Frye features contemporary art as well as European and American paintings from the 19th and 20th centuries.

We enjoyed the two Andy Warhol exhibitions currently on view. During the 1970s, Warhol recorded a reported 40,000 Polaroids documenting his personal and professional endeavors. Warhol’s Little Red Book #178 is a collection of 19 Polaroid pictures of his friends and other celebrities taken in 1970 while he made his film L’Amour.

Little Red Book #178 has 19 of the reported 40,000 Polaroid photos Warhol took in the 1970s.

From 1964-1966, Warhol recorded hundreds of visitors to his studio, called The Factory, using a Bolex camera. Warhol’s 12 Screen Tests features artists and celebrities who were instructed to sit still for the length of a 16 mm film—about three minutes. Subjects featured in 12 Screen Tests include Dennis Hopper, Edie Sedgwick, Susan Sontag, Lou Reed, Bob Dylan, Marcel Duchamp and Brooke Hayward. Not everyone was capable of the task assigned. Bob Dylan’s Screen Test shows him smoking a cigarette and fidgeting throughout.

Hundreds of Warhol’s Factory visitors were filmed for his series of “Screen Tests.”

Subjects were meant to be still for the three minute films, but Bob Dylan fidgeted and smoked throughout his “Screen Test.”

Also on view is Structure and Ornament, a multi media exhibition of Leo Saul Berk’s work based on the iconic Chicago-area Ford House, his childhood home.

Berk’s dream about sleeping on the floor at Ford House was the inspiration for “Heat Signature.”

The artist refers to his work as “a riff on the house,” which has historical significance and was designed by architect Bruce Goff. The exhibition includes the history of the home, photographs and films, along with Berk’s sculptures and other works, based upon the unique structure and the artist’s memories of living there.

Leo Saul Berk’s childhood residence, the iconic Ford House, was the basis for the “Structure and Ornament” exhibition now on view.

“Cone Twelve,” Berk’s aluminum composite and stainless steel sculpture.

“Mortar and Marbles” is a to-scale representation of a section of the Ford House’s curved coal walls.

Also currently on view is: American Portraits: 1880-1915– a selection of portraiture by artists whose works are included in the Founding Collection.

Museum visitors relax and enjoy the “American Portraits: 1880-1915” exhibition.

The Museum has a nice little café with an outdoor garden. Sandwiches, soups, sweets and other simple but satisfying offerings are available at very reasonable prices.

The Frye’s cafe has a lovely garden area and is a nice option for lunch or coffee.

When we arrived at the Frye Museum, we were told that one of the galleries was closed for yoga, but would soon reopen. Every Sunday morning, a yoga class takes place there, accompanied by local experimental musicians—just one of the creative classes the Museum hosts along with art classes for everyone from pre-schoolers to life-long learners, meditation, film presentations, lectures, performances and creative aging programs for adults suffering dementia. A complete program listing is available at www.fryemuseum.org.

Charles and Emma Frye would no doubt be pleased to see their wish– that the public enjoy free access to art, that ‘perfection of good-nature,’ continues to be a reality today, thanks to their free art museum.

Outdoor Art at Seattle’s Olympic Sculpture Park

After a beautiful morning at Chihuly Garden and Glass and lunch at Seattle Central Armory’s Skillet Counter, we headed down to the Olympic Sculpture Park, part of the Seattle Art Museum. On the way we passed a Duckload of friendly tourists.

Seattle’s Duck Tour is one way to see the sights in the Emerald City.

We enjoyed the view of snowcapped Mt. Ranier in the distance and the cruise ships docked nearby.

Seattle is a popular jumping off point for Alaskan cruises.

And finally reached our destination– the Olympic Sculpture Park.

All are welcome at Seattle’s Olympic Sculpture Park. Admission is free.

Jaume Plensa’s 46- foot Echo, towers over visitors with her eyes closed to the sea beyond.

This beautiful urban art park was once an industrial site. Now, less than 10 years later, the nine acres on Elliott Bay is Seattle’s largest downtown green space and home to spectacular sculpture by some of the most influential and respected artists in the world including Richard Serra, Ellsworth Kelly, Alexander Calder, and Louise Nevelson.

A view of Richard Serra’s Wake.

It’s an entirely different visual experience to wander among the panels of Wake.

Alexander Calder’s The Eagle provides a brilliant pop of color and a shady place to rest.

Typewriter Eraser by Claes Oldenburg and Coosje van Bruggen must add a touch of whimsy to the daily commute.

With views toward the Olympic Mountains and Puget Sound, thought provoking and attention getting art, and its beautiful waterfront location, the award-winning Olympic Sculpture Park ought to be on your list of “must sees” in Seattle.

Cargo ships glide by Bunyon’s Chess by Mark di Suvero.

Puget Sound makes a beautiful backdrop for these sculptures.

di Suvero’s Schubert Sonata has a prime location.

The nine-acre sculpture park has lovely wooded paths to explore.

The Olympic Sculpture Park is pedestrian and bicycle friendly, handicapped accessible, and admission is free.

Roy McMakin’s Love and Loss was commissioned for the Olympic Sculpture Park.

Beverly Pepper’s Perre’s Ventaglio III is right at home among the vegetation.

What a fantastic place to spend a beautiful day in Seattle! Next, dinner decisions, The Frye and we take flight to Boeing Field–a visit to the Museum of Flight.

Note: Banner image is Louise Bourgeois’s Father and Son. Each figure is in turn concealed and revealed by the water in which they stand, separated, arms outstretched.

Maui– A Blowhole, Beach Hike and Dragon’s Teeth

After a surprising number of rainy days on our springtime get-away to Maui, we woke to a brilliant blue Hawaiian day. From the balcony of our rental condo, we saw rainbows and cavorting whales–the perfect day to explore this little corner of paradise!

*What better way to start the day than with rainbows and whales?*

The Nakalele blowhole looked spectacular in photos, so we packed a picnic, swimsuits and snorkel gear, and off we went. We followed Highway 30 past Kapalua, home to the Ritz Carlton, and continued along the winding two-lane road beyond where it joins Highway 340—the Kahekili Highway. The road narrows along the rugged coastline and the views become even more breathtaking as you drive.

*The curvy road narrows and dips so use your horn!*

Near mile marker 38, you’ll begin to see cars parked on the side of the road and people trekking across a scrubby, rocky area towards a precipitous cliff and the ocean below. That’s your signal to pull off the road and join them.

*Park on the shoulder.* *There’s no official parking area here.*

*There are several hiking trails that lead down to the blowhole. One passes a small light beacon.*

If mobility allows, join the march down toward the sea. We parked close to mile marker 38.5 and carefully made our way down through the rough and rocky landscape to get nearer, but not too close, to the blowhole.

*The trail down is steep and rocky and the lava rock can be slippery*.

*We visited the blowhole at high tide–spectacular!*

Blowholes, sometimes known as marine geysers, are formed when sea caves develop landward and upward towards the surface. When waves sweep in, the hydraulic pressure forces the water up and out with enormous force creating a powerful plume. The higher the tide and swells, the more spectacular the eruptions.

*These two wisely chose to enjoy nature’s show from a safe distance away. The area near the blowhole can be treacherous.*

You can see the spray from the blowhole and hear the huge waves slam onto shore from quite a distance, especially during high tide. You can also feel the vibrations underfoot as you get closer.

This is not a hike for those with impaired mobility or while wearing flip flops. There are no barriers, safety features, paved pathways or services of any kind and the trail down can be challenging, but so worth it.

The Nakalele blowhole is a powerful, natural phenomenon and should be enjoyed with respect and caution from a safe distance. As a crude hand- painted sign warns, “Stay clear of blowhole. You can be sucked in and killed. It’s not a waterpark.” This is the only sign you’ll see here but please take it seriously and don’t get too close! People have been sucked into this blowhole and drowned and they have also been swept off the slippery lava rocks by the enormous waves common here and drowned.

*You can see the huge plume and hear the giant waves crashing from a distance away, especially at high tide.*

We didn’t go all the way down to the blowhole–no need to for great views. We sat on the rocks above for a long time, mesmerized by the pounding waves and the tremendous geyser as the blowhole shot plumes of sea water high into the air and people nearby tried to capture that perfect Instagrammable moment.

We were reluctant to leave Nakalele but the beach beckoned. Highway 340 continues on, but recent flash floods and road closures in the area led us to head back down the winding two-lane highway towards Kapalua until we spotted a sign for D.T. Fleming Beach Park.

At mile marker 31.1 we drove down Lower Honoapiilani Road and found ourselves in a big, paved parking lot with plenty of spaces available. We were lucky. This is a very popular and crowded beach on weekends and in the summertime–spots fill up early.

*Recent storms made for rough surf — thus the red flag warning and a very busy lifeguard.*

D.T. Fleming Beach Park has bathrooms, showers, changing areas, BBQs, and picnic tables. The beach even has a lifeguard which is not usual in our experience at Maui public beaches. Ritz Carlton guests use this beach and the hotel has a snack bar near the path between the hotel and the beach parking lot. If you want an ice cream or snack, you’re in luck!

*Pineapples really did turn out to be gold for West Maui.*

The beach is named in honor of David Thomas Fleming, a Scotsman, who emigrated to Maui with his family at age 9. D.T. Fleming is credited with introducing commercial pineapple cultivation to Western Maui in 1912, saving the Honolau Ranch, the local economy, and helping to create prosperity in the area that continues today.

We changed into our swimsuits, hauled our picnic and snorkel gear down to the sandy beach and settled in. The views were gorgeous, the water was warm, but all the storms we’d had recently made for a rough surf. The lifeguard was kept very busy calling people back onto shore. We took a dip and enjoyed the sunshine that had been so fleeting the last few days.

After lunch, we set out for the Kapalua Coastal Trail and Makaluapuna Point. The trail begins with a paved path that winds along the Ritz Carlton’s golf course.

*This monument marks* *an ancient Hawaiian burial site beyond the hedge.*

The Kapalua Coastal Trail gets rugged and rocky pretty quickly once you leave the golf course path but the scenery and rock formations are spectacular the closer you get to Makaluapuna Point.

The winds were high, the powerful waves were pounding the lava rock, and the trail became rougher as we reached Makaluapuna Point and spotted Dragon’s Teeth labyrinth. What a gorgeous spot for quiet contemplation!

There is a small sign asking people to be respectful and not leave anything in the center. According to a Wall Street Journal article, stacking stones on trails, paths and in labyrinth centers is a trend. Please don’t.

The “Dragon’s Teeth” were formed when hot lava hit the ocean and the wind and waves shaped the rock into what resembles jagged teeth. Can you see them?

Sometimes weather and ocean conditions make this stunning place off limits, but we visited on a beautiful day and were able to fully experience the peacefulness of this rugged spit of land, jutting into the sea. Paradise indeed!

Note: Visit Travel.Hawaii.Gov for updated Hawaiian travel information. Be sure to book your rental car ASAP and restaurant reservations before you go!

Headed to Hawaii? What to Know Before You Go

Note: Even though Covid and the many restrictions (travel and otherwise) that came with it is behind us, I’m leaving this post up to memorialize the experience!

It seems like almost everyone I know is either on their way, just returned, or is planning a trip to Hawaii. With most international destinations still off limits for Americans, Hawaii is the perfect escape—mainlanders can enjoy a far flung holiday without leaving the USA. A trip to paradise during the pandemic is not going to happen without planning though. Gone are the days of buying a ticket and showing up at the airport. The State of Hawaii has testing requirements and rules in place to safeguard the health of its citizens and those wishing to enjoy a tropical get-away. Here’s what you need to know before you go.

First step—visit Safe Travels: State of Hawaii https://travel.hawaii.gov Here’s where you’ll find all current travel rules and requirements. They change frequently! You can also find helpful information at http://hawaiicovid19.com. You will need a Covid-19 test within 72-hours of travel and it must be administered by an approved testing organization. These are listed on the website. We used Carbon Health at San Diego’s airport. It was seamless and our results were back in plenty of time to upload and add to our documentation on the SafeTravelHawaii site. It was not inexpensive—we paid $170 each but knowing we’d have our results back on time reduced our stress level considerably.

*Visit https://travel .hawaii.gov before you pack for paradise!*

There is also a mandatory online questionnaire to complete. Once you’ve submitted all the information required, the State of Hawaii will send you a QR code. You will need this to check in for your flight and at your hotel. Some car rental companies may also want to see and scan your code. Consider printing a copy or two and keeping it with you along with a printed copy of your negative Covid-19 test results. WiFi can be spotty and you may need to show the QR code even when you can’t access it on your mobile device.

*Each of the Hawaiian Islands has their own travel regulations. In Maui, you need to download the contact tracing app, for example.*

if you’re traveling to Maui, as we were, you’ll need to download the contact tracing app for the island. Each of the Hawaiian Islands has their own, very specific rules and travel between islands also requires compliance with local regulations. You must meet all of these requirements even if you are fully vaccinated.

*Alaska Airline’s pre-screening meant we got off the plane and started our vacation with no further Covid-19 checks necessary.*

Your airline may also be of assistance in your travel preparations. We were able to complete a pre-clearance check before boarding our Alaska Airlines http://www.alaskaair.com flight. The wristbands we were given meant once we landed, we were free to leave the airport with no further interactions or delays. Hawaii means business– there were officials positioned throughout the airport, checking for wristbands. Those without them were whisked away.

*Hawaii is a very popular destination right now, especially since most international travel is still off limits to Americans.*

There is a mandatory quarantine in effect for anyone arriving without the required testing and documentation. I read recently of a couple who tried to bribe a TSA official upon landing without having been tested. They wanted to avoid quarantine and instead were arrested.

*We spent lots of time admiring rainbows, whale watching and staring at the sea in Maui.*

Be sure to book your rental car when you buy your air tickets. I’ve heard horror stories lately about the lack of rental car availability and the outrageous prices being charged. Do not expect to find a rental car without a reservation on any of the islands.

Because Hawaii is such a popular destination right now, make restaurant reservations before you leave home. We were lucky to get reservations for the last two nights of our 10-day holiday.

*Many popular restaurants were fully booked for the first week of our vacation. We would have booked our favorites before we left home, had we known!*

Due to Covid restrictions, restaurants are operating at limited capacity and reservations are a must at most places. Some of the more casual eateries will accept walk-ins and we had a luck with that at Maui Brewing Company www.mauibrewing.com on our first night. If you’re craving beer and a burger (or that tasty kalua pork), this is a great option and it’s family-friendly, too. I’m not much of a beer drinker but our friendly server gave me a few tastes to find one I liked– the Wiamea Red was my pick.

*The Wiamea Red and Hazy Big Swell IPA were perfect with our burger and tacos after a long travel day.*

*Maui Brewing makes a wide range of local beers from Bikini Blonde lager to the very robust Imperial Coconut Porter. They offer flights so you can try a few!*

They offer their beer to go with or without take-away food orders and it’s priced better at the brewery than the Safeway. They have two locations on Maui and two on Oahu. We ate at the Lahaina/Kahana outpost.

If you are up for a night out and enjoy Asian cuisine, Star Noodle in Lahaina www.starnoodle.com gets two thumbs up from us. We had such a delicious lunch that we returned for dinner later in our stay.

*Great food and a fabulous location make Star Noodle one of our top picks!*

The seating is almost all outdoors and right on the ocean–just what you want on a Hawaiian holiday. All the noodles are made in-house and both the Hot n Sour noodles and Singapore noodles were delicious.

*All the noodles at Star Noodle are made in-house and are delicious!*

The Nuoc Cham wings were so tasty we ate them both times! The Adobo Ribs were excellent as were the Colossal Tempura Shrimp but beware—these dishes sell out and when they’re gone, they’re gone.

*These Nuoc Cham wings were so good we ordered them twice.*

*We enjoyed a lunch and a dinner at Star Noodle. Reservations for both are required!*

Star Noodle is located right next door to the Old Lahaina Luau www.oldlahainaluau.com and during our dinner we could hear the drumming and the singing from next door. I even caught a glimpse of a few performers headed to the stage.

*The Old Lahaina Luau is still one of the best and most popular on the island. They sell out months in advance during the high season.*

This brought back happy memories of traveling to Maui with our kids when they were younger and a trip to the luau was a Hawaiian highlight. The concierge at the Westin told me that the Old Lahaina Luau is still one of the best on the island but get your tickets way in advance—it sells out quickly!

*Dukes is a popular spot for breakfast, lunch and dinner.*

On our last night in Maui, we opted for the extremely popular Duke’s Beach House www.dukesmaui.com since it was just a short walk up the beach from the Nanea. We had booked early in the trip and honestly, my expectations were not high but the food and the service far surpassed what I imagined a place packed with tourists would offer. I had delicious, seared ahi and my husband opted for a huge and tasty burger.

*The ahi was perfectly fresh and seared just right.*

*They make a big, tasty burger at Duke’s Maui.*

They offered us a complimentary Hulu pie—their signature dessert, but we were too full to accept. They also had live music—a treat after being locked down for so long– and they’re right across from the beach so tables close to the esplanade have lovely views. Duke’s serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. Make reservations!

*Grilling at the oceanfront condo we rented took the sting out of cooking on vacation.*

After cooking at home for months and months, we found ourselves still cooking on vacation most nights, but the change of scenery made it much more palatable! We stayed in a condo in Kahana our first five nights https://www.vacasa.com/unit/15880 and had a well-equipped kitchen and sparkling clean BBQ grills in the pool area which we used nightly. It was pretty special to grill just feet from the ocean and enjoy our meals on the balcony while whale watching! That’s something we can’t do at home.

*We had rainbows at breakfast, whale watching at lunch, and spectacular sunsets before dinner every night from the balcony at our Hololani rental.*

Our last five nights were at the Westin Nanea, an upscale timeshare on the north end of Ka’anapali. We had a very large two-bedroom unit with an eat-in kitchen and all the amenities we needed. http://marriott.com The pools were busy but the adjacent lawn area and beach were peaceful.

*Both the Westin Nanea and its sister property Ocean Resort Villas further down the beach were buzzing with activity during our stay.*

*We had a fully-equipped kitchen, a dining area plus a balcony with table and chairs at our two-bedroom, two bath villa.*

*There was plenty of room to spread out in our unit at the family-friendly Westin Nanea.*

Dining options on the property were very limited due to Covid but BBQ grills were placed throughout the expansive property so we’d grab a glass of wine and our fish and head down the elevators to cook most nights. We met some lovely people while preparing our meals!

*Guests will find BBQ grills throughout the grounds at the Nanea.*

If you are planning a “self-catering” holiday in Maui where you have a kitchen and/or grill available, be sure to stock up at the Costco near the airport. We got most of the basics, wine, and fantastic fresh fish there. I also picked up a lightweight rain jacket which came in very handy on this trip. You’ll also find chocolate covered macadamia nuts, Hawaiian coffee, and other edible souvenirs at a fraction of the price of the touristy shops around the island. Watch out for the chickens roaming the parking lot!

*These chickens were in Lahaina but their cousins were everywhere– including the Costco parking lot.*

If you don’t have a Costco membership or just want a few things, the Lahaina Safeway will have what you need. We made a trip or two there, as well.

Pick up pies both sweet and savory—it is vacation after all–at Leoda’s Kitchen & Pie Shop in Olowalu https://www.leodas.com. There’s always a line but it goes quickly. The Olowalu Lime and Chocolate Macadamia were my favorites!

*Leoda’s is a popular stop for sweet and savory pies, sandwiches and more.*

*Avoid disappointment and go early or order online! Pies sell out and when they’re gone, they’re gone.*

Right next door is the Olowalu Juice Stand and Farmer’s Market for fresh fruits and vegetables, ice cold coconuts, sweets and more. We watched a Farmer’s Market clerk with a machete make quick work of a coconut, preparing it for a customer in minutes– paper umbrella and all. There’s also a small general store and the Butterfly Farm here.

*Grab one of Olowalu Juice Stand’s tropical smoothies and head next door to the Farmer’s Market where fresh coconuts and pineapples are big sellers.*

*We didn’t go in, but the Butterfly Farm is close to Leoda’s and the Juice Stand in Olowalu.*

After a long year of not traveling, our trip to Maui was just what we needed. It was exciting to be on an airplane again and to spend some time in such a beautiful, tropical paradise—without ever leaving our own country!

*What a wonderful trip after a long year without travel!*

Next up, I’ll share about some of the places we explored in Maui when we weren’t gazing out to sea, watching for whales, and enjoying rainbows!

Note- This article was written in April 2021. Many Covid-related restrictions have changed since that time.

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