Italian Travel

The Cinque Terre, Portofino and Camogli: Liguria’s Allure

Liguria is the place you imagine when you think of Italy’s spectacularly scenic Mediterranean coastline, stylish Europeans sipping spritzs behind oversized sunglasses, perhaps aboard fabulous yachts bobbing in crystalline waters. I’d traveled to Italy 15 times and when a friend asked why I’d never been to Liguria, I had no answer. It was time!

**Liguria is known for its beautiful seaside towns. We chose to stay in Camogli.**

There are many lovely small cities and towns dotting the Ligurian coast, all with their own particular charms. We settled on Camogli, midway between the bustling seaport city of Genoa to the north and Riomaggiore, the southernmost of the ever- popular Cinque Terre—the Five Towns. We had a rental car and planned to drive from Ortesei in the Val Gardena, where we’d spent a week at the Adler Dolomiti hiking in the beautiful Italian Alps, to the Ligurian coast.

**Pastel buildings, many at least six stories high, line** **the seafront in Camogli.**

The freeways were fine, but rain and traffic slowed us down considerably. We’d been driving for nearly six and half hours for a trip that should have taken just over five, when 90 minutes shy of our destination we entered another of an endless string of tunnels (the Italians call them galleries) and quickly noticed that not only had traffic completely stopped, but everyone around us had turned off their engines. Did I mention I was claustrophobic? Just as I was beginning to hyperventilate, the people in a car ahead of ours jumped out, skateboard and a soccer ball in hand.

***We were stuck in a tunnel for more than an hour*— *watching them kept my mind off it!***

This was the distraction I needed for the next hour until miraculously, engines started, and traffic began to move ever so slowly out of the tunnel. What a relief to finally arrive at the Cenobio dei Dogi in Camogli.

Camogli- Under the Radar but Not for Long

*The terrace at Cenobio dei Dogi is the perfect place for lunch or an aperitivo.*

Our room at the Cenobio was on the top floor of this building above the pool. It was nice to have a choice of the pool or the private beach and we often used both!

We chose the Cenobio after reading about it in a Frances Mayes book. It’s a stylish grand dame of a hotel, with a prime location at the end of the esplanade overlooking the sea and the town below. It has a private beach, a pool with plenty of lounge chairs, a well-reviewed restaurant and an outdoor terrace for drinks and lunch, all with amazing sea views. It is steps away from the main pedestrian street, Largo Luigi Simonetti, and a five-minute walk to the train station.

We had phoned ahead (from the tunnel), and they had a table was waiting for us in Il Doges restaurant. We tucked into a fresh mushroom salad, spaghetti al vongole (with clams), and a tower of fritto misto del mare with every kind of fish imaginable, before heading upstairs where we were lulled to sleep by the sound of the waves below.

Our room was on the top floor of the bright pink building behind the main hotel. The room was amply sized, and simply but comfortably furnished with a private balcony. I could have spent every waking moment admiring the sea view.

**The view from our balcony was unbeatable– the sea and Camogli! The umbrellas below are on the hotel’s terrace.**

Camogli boasts a bevy of tall pastel- hued buildings, most at least six stories high, looking out to the sea, where historically, many in this community have earned their livelihood. There are more working boats than pleasure craft in Camogli’s harbor and townspeople go about the business of living among the tourists who descend on the pedestrian main street in search of fresh seafood, focaccia, and beachy souvenirs.

**You’ll see more working boats than yachts in Camogli’s harbor.**

**These whimsical fish tail sculptures mark the beach near Camogli’s port.**

We devoted the next day to exploring Camogli, wandering the harbor area, window shopping, and learning about the Sagra del Pesce. Since 1952, the town has hosted a huge annual fried fish feast, originally served free to all. The event happens the second weekend in May, and honors the patron saint of fishermen, San Fortunato.

*Camogli is famous for its Sagre de Pesce– an annual event where everyone is welcome and fried fish is on the menu. This is one of the pans they used to use– four meters across!*

The early festivals used smaller cookware but in 1954, the first of a series of massive pans was introduced. That one was four meters in diameter. Two of these immense pans are displayed on a wall on Via Guiseppe Garabaldi near the Largo Luigi Simonetti. This year, three tons of fish, fried in 3,000 liters of olive oil, were served. In all, 30,000 portions were prepared by volunteers. Hungry attendees are asked to contribute 6 Euro each, all of which goes to charity. They even fry up gluten-free portions of fish!

*Here’s a look at the Sagre de Pesce circa 1970 using the pan that now hangs on the town wall.*

The Largo Luigi Simonetti, an elevated esplanade above the sea, serves as the main thoroughfare and is where you’ll find most of the town’s restaurants and shops. Families gather and children ride bicycles around the small piazzetta, which is also a perfect place for a sunset aperitivo and dinner.

*The Largo Luigi Simonetti, an elevated esplanade above the sea, serves as Camogli’s main thoroughfare*. *It’s a busy place on a Sunday at lunchtime!*

One of the joys of staying in a seaside town is all the fresh fish. Camogli has so many excellent places to eat it was hard to choose, but Izoa was one of our favorites.

You’ll find fish and pasta on every menu in town. Squid ink linguini with shrimp and vegetables was my pick!

Camogli has its share of tourists who visit, eat, shop, and mostly depart by nightfall. The crowds here do not compare to towns further south, particularly in the Cinque Terre, and we were very grateful for that!

*Sweet, savory or just plain, focaccia is as ubiquitous in Liguria as bruschetta is in Tuscany. There always a line, but it is worth waiting for the fresh baked focaccia at Revello.*

*Camogli’s public beach is popular even in October– the weather is still warm! Beaches in this area are covered in cobbles, not sand, so bring your aqua socks.*

The Abbey at San Fruttuoso

A trip to the Abbey at San Fruttuoso is a highlight of a stay in Camogli. This beautiful Benedictine abbey dates to the 10^th century and can only be accessed by foot – an arduous hours-long hike to the end of the peninsula, or a pleasant less than 30 -minute jaunt aboard a boat. You can catch the regularly scheduled boat, which is well signed-posted, on Camogli’s pier near the Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta.

*The Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta towers over the harbor behind it and the public beach in front of it.*

The regularly schedule boat to Punta Chiappa and San Fruttuoso leaves from this easy to find dock in Camogli.

After a quick stop at Punta Chiappa, we landed on the beach below the abbey. Upon arrival, you have options. You can climb the stone stairs up to reach the abbey immediately, take a hike up the hill beside it for the views, or just relax on the beach, as we saw a number of people doing.

*It’s an hours- long hike or a quick boat ride to the abbey at San Fruttouso. We took the boat.*

Many beaches in this area are filled with smooth stones rather than sand, so pack your aqua socks. The cobbles are really hard on tender feet!

There are two small restaurants on either side of the beach that we didn’t visit but seemed to be doing a good business. We climbed the steps, past the old rowboats and went inside to explore the maritime art, medieval artifacts, and antiquities housed on several floors of the abbey. We also visited the 10th century chapel and the crypt.

**The Abbey of San Fruttuoso has numerous antiquities, maritime artifacts and art on display.**

Though the abbey was important in the 11th and 12th centuries, it fell into disrepair and in 1467 was abandoned by the Benedictine monks who founded it. Genoa’s Doria family assumed patronage which lasted until 1885. Many members of the prominent family are buried here in the striking grey and white marble crypt.

*This small chapel in the Benedictine Abbey of San Fruttuoso dates back to the 10th century.*

*When the tide is low you can see San Fruttuoso’s image at the beach below his namesake abbey.*

We spent a few hours exploring the Abbey and the grounds and were back in Camogli in time for a leisurely late lunch on the hotel’s terrace and a swim.

The Cinque Terre–Beautiful But…

*This is the kind of view that draw tourists from around the world to the Cinque Terre.*

Since we were so close to the Cinque Terre, we planned to take a train early the next morning to Riomaggiore, the southernmost of the five towns, and make our way back up the coast by boat, stopping in each of the towns as we went. We had a car, but parking is almost impossible in these small Ligurian towns. It was a gorgeous, sunny October day — perfect for exploring, or so we thought. We caught a local train and less than an hour later disembarked along with a shocking number of other visitors. We could not believe how crowded the town was in the so-called off season.

Riomaggiore

We made our way through the heaving throngs down to the pier only to find a sign announcing there would be no boats “due to adverse weather.” Too nice to spend the day at work was our guess!

*No boats today! Sunny skies, calm seas–we couldn’t fathom the “adverse weather conditions” noted on the sign.*

*It’s a waiting game in Riomaggiore– the southernmost town in the Cinque Terre.*

We waited to climb up the stone steps to enjoy the views out over the water, waited to climb back down, waited to get a cup of coffee, and waited some more. We were not enjoying the highly touted charms of Riomaggiore. We decided to get on a train heading north and pay a visit to Vernazza, reputed to be the most beautiful of the five towns.

Vernazza

If Riomaggiore was crowded, Vernazza was mobbed! Even climbing the stairs to exit the train station was a challenge. There were tour groups galore. We finally made our way down to the water, and after noting the crowds, headed for the 11^th century church of Santa Margherita d’Antiocchia for a bit of peace and quiet.

*Vernazza is meant to be the most beautiful of the five towns in Cinque Terre.*

*The 11th century church of Santa Margherita d’Antiocchia provided a bit of peace and quiet in bustling Vernazza.*

After a walk around the main square, Piazza Marconi, we decided to head back to Camogli.

*After fighting the crowds to get to the ticket machine– it didn’t wor*k!

The ticket machine at the station wouldn’t take our credit cards or our cash. We asked the information person what to do since we didn’t want to get a fine, or worse, for traveling without a valid ticket. He laughed, said the machines had been broken for some time and advised we just get on the train with the tickets we’d used to come south. On we went, back down through the masses to the tracks below and northward to Camogli. We treated ourselves to gelato, headed for the hotel, and spent the rest of the afternoon at their private beach, enjoying the serenity of our beautiful little town.

*What a relief to return to Camogli and the blissful peace of the Cenobio’s private beach!*

Picture Perfect Portofino

By now we had explored Camogli, visited the much-vaunted Cinque Terre, had gone swimming in the Ligurian Sea’s crystal-clear waters, enjoyed a spritz or two, but still hadn’t seen any yachts. One stop on the local train took us to Santa Margherita Ligure and then a short bus ride brought us to picture-perfect Portofino.

The pretty town boasts upscale boutiques, inviting restaurants and a gorgeous harbor filled with yachts. There were also plenty of tourists, which at this point was not unexpected. We had a nice wander around town but the sculpture garden, Museo del Parco, we had planned to visit was closed, though we’d checked the website first.

We hiked up the hill to the lovely church of San Giorgio, lit a few candles and enjoyed the views. We realized we could probably see at least some of the art from above and took a winding path back down from the church to the harbor, enjoying the sculpture as we went.

**The sculpture garden, Museo del Parco, was closed but we saw a lot of the art from above as we walked back down to the Piazzetta from the Church of San Giorgio.**

*Here’s the view from above of Portofino’s beautiful harbor and the Museo del Parco.*

We decided to take a boat back to Santa Margherita Ligure—an excellent choice as it turned out. The boat took us on a scenic tour of the harbor where we saw plenty of pleasure craft, and spotted magnificent homes in the hills above the town.

*I’ll always say yes to a boat ride– especially on a day as beautiful as this one.*

After our all too brief boat ride, we enjoyed a walk around Santa Margherita Ligure’s waterfront and headed to the train station for the one- stop train ride back to Camogli.

Genoa

Here’s where our well-planned day took a turn. Santa Margherita Ligure’s station was small and didn’t have the large electronic signs with train numbers, expected arrival times and destinations you’ll typically find in Italian train stations. Five minutes before ours was due, a train pulled in and I insisted we get on. My husband reluctantly climbed aboard and as soon as the doors closed, I sensed I’d made a mistake. This train was much more luxurious than the locals we’d been taking up and down the coast. Sure enough, when I asked another passenger if the next stop was Camogli, he shrugged and said, “No lo so, Camogli.” –he didn’t know Camogli. Not a good sign. A conductor came along and when I showed him our tickets he laughed and announced we were on an express train to Genoa which, by the way, had nine different stations. He advised we keep our tickets, get off at Piazza Principe, and take the next local train back to Camogli.

We arrived in Genoa in less than 30 minutes. The leisurely ride back to Camogli took more than an hour and stopped no fewer than eleven times, but the views over the sea were spectacular. Lesson learned. Trains in Italy may be delayed, but they do not arrive early.

Though I still struggle with the appeal of the tourist- packed Cinque Terre and our misadventures landed us in Genoa, I loved our time in Liguria. It is a beautiful area with enormous charm, delicious food and wine, and absolutely worth a visit. I’ll definitely return to Camogli, may explore Genoa, but will give the Cinque Terre a miss next time!

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Navigating Travel as Covid Continues– Updated!

Note: I’ve chosen to leave this post up as a reminder of what travel was like not that long ago. Let’s hope this experience remains in the rear view mirror!

Remember when we could book an airline ticket, grab our bags and go? Covid has changed how, and even if we travel, for what feels like a long time now. As I prepared for my first international trip in nearly two years last fall, I learned just how different things had become. When I returned to Europe last month, the rules had changed again.

*Covid has changed so much about how and even if we can travel.*

Vaccination and documentation requirements, for leaving the country and returning, seem to change almost daily both in the USA and abroad. Check government websites for any and all countries you will visit or transit through for updated Covid information. Some countries still require testing, proof of vaccination, and forms that must be completed online before you can board the plane.

We traveled to Italy last fall, transiting through London’s Heathrow airport. We needed proof of a negative Covid test within 72 hours of travel (we scheduled free tests cvs.com), a completed EU locator form euplf.eu, a UK locator form gov.uk, an Italian Declaration Statement esteri.it, our vaccine card showing at least two doses, and of course, USA passport, before we could obtain our boarding passes. The UK has no restrictions right now, and masks are no longer required there or on planes or airports in the EU. When we went to Portugal and Spain last month we still needed to test to enter Portugal and locator forms were also required. Had we flown into Spain, none of that would have been necessary.

*We didn’t realize we needed a UK Locator Form just to pass through Heathrow Airport last fall.* *All restrictions have been lifted in the UK– for now.*

We flew on American Airlines which uses VeriFLY, an app you upload your documents and test results to for easier airport check-in. See if your airline uses one of these services. I wish we had downloaded it before we started our trip– we would’ve known we needed the UK Locator form before we got to the airport, saving time and undue stress as we scrambled to complete the form on our phones before we could check in.

*If your airline uses an app like VeriFLY download it– it makes check-in much easier and lets you know exactly which forms you’ll need before you head to the airport.*

I strongly suggest you carry paper copies of all of your documentation in case you can’t access digital copies. Not only did we need these to obtain our boarding passes, but also on arrival in the UK, before we boarded our flight to Rome and again when we landed in Rome. We also had to show negative Covid test results, vaccine card and EU locator forms when we checked in to our first hotel in Italy. This spring, we used Verifly again and it made life a lot easier!

*Check specific requirements for every country you plan to visit.*

Carry your Covid-19 vaccination card at all times. You will be showing it a lot if you’re traveling in an EU country. In Italy we needed our vaccine cards to enter all buildings including museums, shops, restaurants, hotels—nearly everywhere we went. In Spain and Portugal we rarely needed to show it, though we kept it handy just in case.

A clear plastic sleeve will help protect your card. I got ours on amazon.com. At the moment EU citizens and people from 16 other countries can get a digital “green pass” but most Americans cannot ec.europa.eu.

*You’ll show your vaccination card at the Green Pass check everywhere you go. Keep it handy!*

Bring disposable masks. Mask mandates are changing all the time. They are still required in many places where social distancing is not possible in the EU and other parts of the world. No discussion. No exceptions. Wear your mask if you’re asked to.

*Masks may be required in EU countries and many other parts of the world.*

Check your documents! Is your passport up to date? And by that, I mean will it be valid six months from your scheduled departure? If not, renew it now and be prepared to pay extra to expedite this if necessary. Everything takes longer in the time of Covid. I just renewed mine. It took six weeks with expedited processing, though the website said it could take up to 11 weeks. For more visit travel.state.gov.

Make copies of your passport and leave at least one copy at home with a friend or family member. Keep one with you in a secure location and keep a copy on your phone. This will come in handy if your passport goes missing. Having a color copy helped my husband get a replacement passport in a hurry when his was stolen in London. It also was helpful for the police report he had to file before the new one could be issued. Never pack your passport in a checked bag. When you’ve reached your destination lock it in your hotel safe and carry a color copy. Do not leave it in your room unsecured.

*Be sure your passport is valid for six months from your departure date.*

Notify your bank and credit card companies that you will be traveling abroad. Nothing will ruin your trip faster than having your credit card frozen because of fraud concerns. Make a note of contact numbers for your cards and keep it in a secure location in case they’re lost or stolen. If you don’t already have a four- digit pin, create one as soon as possible.

*We haven’t always been notified when a flight has been delayed or cancelled.* *Check your travel plans with your airline regularly.*

Check in with your airline regularly. Flights are cancelled and changed with shocking frequency these days. Both our outbound and return flights were cancelled, rescheduled, and changed again before we left for Italy. Our return trip from Madrid last month was cancelled the same day we were scheduled to fly and we got a “bonus” day there. Your airline will also have updated Covid information for the countries you’ll be visiting.

Book your rental car ASAP. Rental cars are harder to come by and much more expensive than they used to be. This is true everywhere. The sooner you book the more likely you’ll get what you want and at a better price. Try autoslash.com for price comparisons for the major rental companies.

Coming home can be fraught with anxiety these days as everyone must be tested for Covid before returning to the USA. We are one of the few remaining countries to require this and it is not as easy to organize as it was even last fall. At the moment rapid tests taken within 24-hours of departure are needed. Your hotel can usually book you an appointment. Ours had a nurse come to our room in Madrid to administer the test. If you’re going elsewhere, bring your passport to the testing appointment–you will need it to receive your documentation. We paid 50 Euro each in cash in Madrid for our tests in April. Last year in Rome it was 22 Euro each at a pharmacy. Be aware that some pharmacies do not test on the weekend, appointments are required, and because few countries require tests, not all will provide necessary documentation.

*You still need proof of a negative Covid test to return to the USA. Check for current requirements*.

Summing it up—Check current requirements for all countries you’ll visit or transit through, as well as testing needs for returning, and make appointments in advance. Keep your vaccination card handy. Be flexible– and very patient. Now go out in the world, be safe, and have fun!

Note– This article was originally written in January 2022 and updated in May 2022.