Museums

Bilbao: Art is Everywhere, Not Just at the Guggenheim

I’ve met more than a few people traveling in Spain who take a day trip to Bilbao to visit the Guggenheim Museum and then they leave. The museum IS incredible both for its collections and Frank Geary’s astounding architecture, but there is so much more to experience in the Basque region’s largest and most important city.

*There is art everywhere in Bilbao! To enjoy it all you’ll need more than a day in this vibrant Basque city.*

After a quiet stay on the beautiful Costa Verde, we felt the energy of this revitalized city on arrival. We dropped our car with the valet at the centrally located Hotel Ercilla Bilbao and took a walk around to get our bearings. We couldn’t help but notice the public art, pedestrian only streets, and parks everywhere we went.

The Guggenheim Museum Bilbao

*Architect Frank Geary’s spectacular design has come to represent the city of Bilbao since the Guggenheim opened in 1997.*

We planned a four-day stay in this vibrant city and since it was at the very top of our list, had gotten tickets for the Guggenheim for our first full day in Bilbao. Tickets are timed and the museum is the number one attraction in the city. Buy your tickets online as soon as you have your dates and get them for as early in the day as you can. There is much to see so book lunch at one of the two restaurants in the museum and you can stay all day. Bistro Guggenheim Bilbao is the more casual of the two, while the Michelin one-star Nerua offers a fine dining option.

*Jeff Koon’s* Puppy *serves as the official greeter at the Guggenheim Bilbao.*

We could see the top of the iconic building as we headed towards the Guggenheim, enjoying Bilbao’s bustling streets as we walked the short distance from our hotel. We spotted Puppy by Jeff Koons, waiting out front. People were vying for a turn to take selfies and group pictures in front of the enormous floral sculpture. The building is spectacular—even more so in person—and there are monumental masterworks to experience even before you enter the museum. Louise Bourgeois’ giant spider called Maman, Daniel Buren’s Arcos Rojos and Anish Kapoor’s Tall Tree are all outside the museum, along with the fog “sculpture” by Fujiko Nakaya that creeps out from under the building every hour.

The first enormous gallery you’ll encounter inside is dedicated to Richard Serra’s site-specific work The Matter of Time. His massive steel structures spiral, snake, and defy gravity. Walking through the huge sculptures can be vertiginous, claustrophobic, even isolating, though you are hardly alone here. Feel the texture of the steel, which changes, as does the temperature. Make some noise! People were whistling and yelling to create echoes inside the sculptures. It was a sensory experience on all levels.

*Richard Serra’s monumental The Matter of Time is a multi-sensory experience.* *Here’s the view from above.*

There’s a viewing deck above the gallery where you can take in the entire exhibition at once, something you can’t really do on the ground level. It’s fascinating to watch people going into the work, standing in the center of some of the larger pieces, moving in a single file through the narrow spaces in others, and just wandering around and enjoying it all! I could’ve spent the day just in that gallery.

*The Matter of Time appeals to all ages!*

Steps from the sculpture is a smaller gallery that has models of each piece, information about Serra’s work and process, and details about the steel’s origins. We learned that only gravity is keeping these gigantic sheets of steel upright and in place! There are photos and information about other works Serra has created–many, like this one, site-specific. I was particularly taken with the history of a piece designed for the City of New York which the artist took back, after the city wanted to move the work.

After you’ve spent some time with Richard Serra’s installation, head upstairs to the special exhibitions and the museum’s excellent permanent collection. Highlights during our visit included an extensive Miro exhibition and Yayoi Kusama’s Infinity Mirrored Room— there was a line to enter this small room, but it was worth the wait to step inside the enchanting world she created!

Read about current exhibitions here.

The museum focuses on art from 1945 on—all modern and contemporary pieces, primarily by American artists. Works by many of the artists you’d expect, including Andy Warhol, Jeff Koons, Ellsworth Kelly, Sol Lewitt, Rothko, Oldenburg, Jackson Pollock, Jean-Michel Basquiat, Willem de Kooning, and their contemporaries are all here, along with works by other less familiar artists.

Our day at the Guggenheim Bilbao was definitely a highlight of our travels through the North of Spain.

Mercado de la Ribera

*Take time to explore the oldest covered market in the world– and have a little lunch.*

There are other iconic structures in this Basque city, some with significantly more history than the Guggenheim. Built in 1929, the Mercado de la Ribera (Erriberako Merkatura in Basque)is the largest covered market in the world and features beautiful stained-glass windows and original iron works throughout. In the heart of the old city, it is the perfect place for a quick, casual meal, snack or drink.

The ground level is a massive food hall offering just about everything—vermouth bars, coffee bars, beer bars, tapas bars, and sweets shops! We went on a busy Saturday afternoon and it was really crowded, but the lines went fast. Look around to see what appeals, order, and then grab a seat at a communal table. This is food hall dining at its best.

Upstairs you’ll find purveyors of fresh fish, produce, meats, cheeses, spices—all the things that made me wish I had a kitchen in Bilbao. There’s also a cooking school. If you’d like to take classes, reserve online here.

It was a sunny Saturday afternoon when we set out to explore to the market and old town and it felt like everybody in Bilbao was outside enjoying the fine day. We stopped at the lively and bustling Plaza Mayor, full of cafes and shops, as you’d expect, along with kids playing soccer (and subsequently soccer balls breaking glasses), people at tables and sitting on the ground having tapas and wine, and everyone generally having a lovely time! We saw a bridal group in tutus with the maid of honor hoisting a megaphone making regular announcements—all fun to experience! Plaza Mayor is the perfect place to stop and have a drink or a coffee—and people watch.

Bilbao’s Cathedral and Church of San Anton

While we were in the old town, we visited the beautiful Cathedral, as we do in every European city. Bilbao’s cathedral, Gothic in style, is dedicated to Saint James or Santiago, the city’s patron saint.

There’s also the much smaller Church of Saint Anton, the oldest building in Bilbao, right next to the market. Purchase a combo ticket at the Cathedral so you can visit both splendid sanctuaries. The entrance fee includes an audio guide available in seven languages, including English.

We took a 20-minute walk through an interesting and diverse neighborhood to reach the market/old town area and walked back another route, through an upscale shopping area. These very different experiences showed us two opposing sides to this Basque city.

*An American President and a musican on a busy shopping street.*

Beaux Art Museum

*Rainy days and museums were made for each other!*

Where better to spend a rainy day than a museum—or two? The Fine Arts Museum (also called Beaux Arts Museum) is the second most visited museum in Bilbao. They have an impressive collection of contemporary art, special exhibitions, and European art from the 16^th, 17th and 18th centuries.

You’ll find many well-known Spanish artists like Goya, Picasso, and Velazquez, plus others you may not have heard of, with Basque artists known for their mostly modern and contemporary works in this category. We bought tickets onsite, though if you are visiting during busy summer or holiday times, it is best to get tickets for everything online in advance.

ITSAMuseum

Also known as the Maritime Museum, ITSAMuseum surprised us by the scope of its offerings. Naturally, the focus of the museum is the sea, which has created a livelihood for so many in the area. In addition to all the seafaring/maritime themed exhibitions, artworks and even a surfing exhibit, we saw a terrific video and exhibit on Bilbao’s history and the enormous impact that the Guggenheim Museum has made on the growth and revitalization of the city. The video also focused on the role Basque culture has played in the city’s history and development, the importance of shipping and trade, and what the future may look like for the area. You’ll see what a sad, industrial wasteland Bilbao was not so long ago, and what it took to become the beautiful, vital city that it is now.

There’s a bar next door if you’d like a drink and a snack. While we were visiting, they were celebrating Earth Day there. There was a band and lots of people, including families with kids, singing along to Basque songs, drinking beer (not the kids), and having a good time.

Azkuna Zentroa– Cultural Center

*Surprising art and architecture await just inside Bilbao’s Cultural Center.*

The Cultural Center –Azkuna Zentroa is worth a visit. The façade is all that remains of the original building but the Philippe Starke- designed interior is the real draw. There are three separate structures under one roof and within the walls. Eight hundred different columns were created for the building and from those, the architect chose 47 to become a part of the edifice. Each one is unique and designed from different materials.

*Free public art is on exhibit on the ground floor.*

There is art displayed in various spaces on the ground floor between the columns. Several pieces were by an artist whose work we had seen at the Fine Arts Museum. The Bilbao public library is also in the building and has free art exhibitions in addition to being a lending library. We saw a comic-themed show. There are also some small shops selling arts and artisanal goods produced by local artists and an information center on the ground floor. The building and the library are free to visit.

On the top floor, there’s a gym and a public swimming pool available to everyone. Look up and you’ll see the swimmers overhead—the pool bottom is transparent!

Practicalities: Where to Stay and Delicious Places to Eat

Like every large city there are lodging options at all price points in Bilbao. We stayed at the Autograph Collection Ercilla Bilbao, which is in a great location right in the center of the city on a pedestrian shopping street. It is walking distance to all the major sites and there are plenty of restaurants and shops nearby. Our room was spacious (Vintage King) and overlooked a courtyard, so it was very quiet. Disclosure—I have status with Marriott/Bonvoy that gives me perks like room upgrades and free breakfast, so I often choose a hotel from the brand.

*Be sure to book a table at Ercilla’s rooftop bar, even if you’re a guest.*

The Ercilla has a great rooftop bar with fabulous views over the city—perfect for an aperitivo or an after-dinner drink! They also have light fare available. You don’t have to be a guest to visit the bar but you should make a reservation.

Restaurants We Loved

We ate extremely well in Bilbao—everywhere in the Northern Spain, in fact. As in any Spanish city, it is important to book a table unless you’re having stand up tapas. Here’s where we went in Bilbao—all different and all excellent!

We had a wonderful, casual dinner our first night in Bilbao at La Vina del Ensanche. They offered a prefix menu for €45 per person along with the regular menu. We had an enormous plate of beautiful Iberian ham, fresh fish, vegetable croquettes, and two desserts. The wine was not expensive and selections were almost all Spanish with plenty of local choices. Service was attentive and very helpful describing different dishes and assisting with wine selection. They also had a little shop with specialty food and wine you could buy to take away. This would be a great place for provisions if you had a kitchen!

We also had an excellent dinner at Viejo Zorti, a popular upscale restaurant with a long history. We had shrimp with garlic to start, followed by a whole turbo which they presented at the table with Pil Pil sauce—you’ll see that sauce everywhere! It was a delicious meal but pricey, which we expected because the fish was “price by the kilo” but so fresh and worth every euro. The wine list was extensive and again, service was attentive and extremely helpful.

Bistro Salitre is a lively, buzzy place catering to a younger, hipper crowd than Viejo Zorti. They had both traditional Basque dishes and updated versions of classics. It was fun on a Saturday night and they had music, too!

It can be hard to find a restaurant that’s open on Sunday night, so we were happy to have Serantes II reserved. This one also specializes in fish dishes and was recommended by the hotel. It was quiet and elegant and a nice respite after a day of touring.

We’ll Be Back

Bilbao was a city of surprises and there was more I wanted to see and do there than we could accomplish, even in four days. I’m excited to return to this beautiful Basque city of outstanding art, notable culture, rich history and exemplary cuisine!

The Cinque Terre, Portofino and Camogli: Liguria’s Allure

Liguria is the place you imagine when you think of Italy’s spectacularly scenic Mediterranean coastline, stylish Europeans sipping spritzs behind oversized sunglasses, perhaps aboard fabulous yachts bobbing in crystalline waters. I’d traveled to Italy 15 times and when a friend asked why I’d never been to Liguria, I had no answer. It was time!

**Liguria is known for its beautiful seaside towns. We chose to stay in Camogli.**

There are many lovely small cities and towns dotting the Ligurian coast, all with their own particular charms. We settled on Camogli, midway between the bustling seaport city of Genoa to the north and Riomaggiore, the southernmost of the ever- popular Cinque Terre—the Five Towns. We had a rental car and planned to drive from Ortesei in the Val Gardena, where we’d spent a week at the Adler Dolomiti hiking in the beautiful Italian Alps, to the Ligurian coast.

**Pastel buildings, many at least six stories high, line** **the seafront in Camogli.**

The freeways were fine, but rain and traffic slowed us down considerably. We’d been driving for nearly six and half hours for a trip that should have taken just over five, when 90 minutes shy of our destination we entered another of an endless string of tunnels (the Italians call them galleries) and quickly noticed that not only had traffic completely stopped, but everyone around us had turned off their engines. Did I mention I was claustrophobic? Just as I was beginning to hyperventilate, the people in a car ahead of ours jumped out, skateboard and a soccer ball in hand.

***We were stuck in a tunnel for more than an hour*— *watching them kept my mind off it!***

This was the distraction I needed for the next hour until miraculously, engines started, and traffic began to move ever so slowly out of the tunnel. What a relief to finally arrive at the Cenobio dei Dogi in Camogli.

Camogli- Under the Radar but Not for Long

*The terrace at Cenobio dei Dogi is the perfect place for lunch or an aperitivo.*

Our room at the Cenobio was on the top floor of this building above the pool. It was nice to have a choice of the pool or the private beach and we often used both!

We chose the Cenobio after reading about it in a Frances Mayes book. It’s a stylish grand dame of a hotel, with a prime location at the end of the esplanade overlooking the sea and the town below. It has a private beach, a pool with plenty of lounge chairs, a well-reviewed restaurant and an outdoor terrace for drinks and lunch, all with amazing sea views. It is steps away from the main pedestrian street, Largo Luigi Simonetti, and a five-minute walk to the train station.

We had phoned ahead (from the tunnel), and they had a table was waiting for us in Il Doges restaurant. We tucked into a fresh mushroom salad, spaghetti al vongole (with clams), and a tower of fritto misto del mare with every kind of fish imaginable, before heading upstairs where we were lulled to sleep by the sound of the waves below.

Our room was on the top floor of the bright pink building behind the main hotel. The room was amply sized, and simply but comfortably furnished with a private balcony. I could have spent every waking moment admiring the sea view.

**The view from our balcony was unbeatable– the sea and Camogli! The umbrellas below are on the hotel’s terrace.**

Camogli boasts a bevy of tall pastel- hued buildings, most at least six stories high, looking out to the sea, where historically, many in this community have earned their livelihood. There are more working boats than pleasure craft in Camogli’s harbor and townspeople go about the business of living among the tourists who descend on the pedestrian main street in search of fresh seafood, focaccia, and beachy souvenirs.

**You’ll see more working boats than yachts in Camogli’s harbor.**

**These whimsical fish tail sculptures mark the beach near Camogli’s port.**

We devoted the next day to exploring Camogli, wandering the harbor area, window shopping, and learning about the Sagra del Pesce. Since 1952, the town has hosted a huge annual fried fish feast, originally served free to all. The event happens the second weekend in May, and honors the patron saint of fishermen, San Fortunato.

*Camogli is famous for its Sagre de Pesce– an annual event where everyone is welcome and fried fish is on the menu. This is one of the pans they used to use– four meters across!*

The early festivals used smaller cookware but in 1954, the first of a series of massive pans was introduced. That one was four meters in diameter. Two of these immense pans are displayed on a wall on Via Guiseppe Garabaldi near the Largo Luigi Simonetti. This year, three tons of fish, fried in 3,000 liters of olive oil, were served. In all, 30,000 portions were prepared by volunteers. Hungry attendees are asked to contribute 6 Euro each, all of which goes to charity. They even fry up gluten-free portions of fish!

*Here’s a look at the Sagre de Pesce circa 1970 using the pan that now hangs on the town wall.*

The Largo Luigi Simonetti, an elevated esplanade above the sea, serves as the main thoroughfare and is where you’ll find most of the town’s restaurants and shops. Families gather and children ride bicycles around the small piazzetta, which is also a perfect place for a sunset aperitivo and dinner.

*The Largo Luigi Simonetti, an elevated esplanade above the sea, serves as Camogli’s main thoroughfare*. *It’s a busy place on a Sunday at lunchtime!*

One of the joys of staying in a seaside town is all the fresh fish. Camogli has so many excellent places to eat it was hard to choose, but Izoa was one of our favorites.

You’ll find fish and pasta on every menu in town. Squid ink linguini with shrimp and vegetables was my pick!

Camogli has its share of tourists who visit, eat, shop, and mostly depart by nightfall. The crowds here do not compare to towns further south, particularly in the Cinque Terre, and we were very grateful for that!

*Sweet, savory or just plain, focaccia is as ubiquitous in Liguria as bruschetta is in Tuscany. There always a line, but it is worth waiting for the fresh baked focaccia at Revello.*

*Camogli’s public beach is popular even in October– the weather is still warm! Beaches in this area are covered in cobbles, not sand, so bring your aqua socks.*

The Abbey at San Fruttuoso

A trip to the Abbey at San Fruttuoso is a highlight of a stay in Camogli. This beautiful Benedictine abbey dates to the 10^th century and can only be accessed by foot – an arduous hours-long hike to the end of the peninsula, or a pleasant less than 30 -minute jaunt aboard a boat. You can catch the regularly scheduled boat, which is well signed-posted, on Camogli’s pier near the Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta.

*The Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta towers over the harbor behind it and the public beach in front of it.*

The regularly schedule boat to Punta Chiappa and San Fruttuoso leaves from this easy to find dock in Camogli.

After a quick stop at Punta Chiappa, we landed on the beach below the abbey. Upon arrival, you have options. You can climb the stone stairs up to reach the abbey immediately, take a hike up the hill beside it for the views, or just relax on the beach, as we saw a number of people doing.

*It’s an hours- long hike or a quick boat ride to the abbey at San Fruttouso. We took the boat.*

Many beaches in this area are filled with smooth stones rather than sand, so pack your aqua socks. The cobbles are really hard on tender feet!

There are two small restaurants on either side of the beach that we didn’t visit but seemed to be doing a good business. We climbed the steps, past the old rowboats and went inside to explore the maritime art, medieval artifacts, and antiquities housed on several floors of the abbey. We also visited the 10th century chapel and the crypt.

**The Abbey of San Fruttuoso has numerous antiquities, maritime artifacts and art on display.**

Though the abbey was important in the 11th and 12th centuries, it fell into disrepair and in 1467 was abandoned by the Benedictine monks who founded it. Genoa’s Doria family assumed patronage which lasted until 1885. Many members of the prominent family are buried here in the striking grey and white marble crypt.

*This small chapel in the Benedictine Abbey of San Fruttuoso dates back to the 10th century.*

*When the tide is low you can see San Fruttuoso’s image at the beach below his namesake abbey.*

We spent a few hours exploring the Abbey and the grounds and were back in Camogli in time for a leisurely late lunch on the hotel’s terrace and a swim.

The Cinque Terre–Beautiful But…

*This is the kind of view that draw tourists from around the world to the Cinque Terre.*

Since we were so close to the Cinque Terre, we planned to take a train early the next morning to Riomaggiore, the southernmost of the five towns, and make our way back up the coast by boat, stopping in each of the towns as we went. We had a car, but parking is almost impossible in these small Ligurian towns. It was a gorgeous, sunny October day — perfect for exploring, or so we thought. We caught a local train and less than an hour later disembarked along with a shocking number of other visitors. We could not believe how crowded the town was in the so-called off season.

Riomaggiore

We made our way through the heaving throngs down to the pier only to find a sign announcing there would be no boats “due to adverse weather.” Too nice to spend the day at work was our guess!

*No boats today! Sunny skies, calm seas–we couldn’t fathom the “adverse weather conditions” noted on the sign.*

*It’s a waiting game in Riomaggiore– the southernmost town in the Cinque Terre.*

We waited to climb up the stone steps to enjoy the views out over the water, waited to climb back down, waited to get a cup of coffee, and waited some more. We were not enjoying the highly touted charms of Riomaggiore. We decided to get on a train heading north and pay a visit to Vernazza, reputed to be the most beautiful of the five towns.

Vernazza

If Riomaggiore was crowded, Vernazza was mobbed! Even climbing the stairs to exit the train station was a challenge. There were tour groups galore. We finally made our way down to the water, and after noting the crowds, headed for the 11^th century church of Santa Margherita d’Antiocchia for a bit of peace and quiet.

*Vernazza is meant to be the most beautiful of the five towns in Cinque Terre.*

*The 11th century church of Santa Margherita d’Antiocchia provided a bit of peace and quiet in bustling Vernazza.*

After a walk around the main square, Piazza Marconi, we decided to head back to Camogli.

*After fighting the crowds to get to the ticket machine– it didn’t wor*k!

The ticket machine at the station wouldn’t take our credit cards or our cash. We asked the information person what to do since we didn’t want to get a fine, or worse, for traveling without a valid ticket. He laughed, said the machines had been broken for some time and advised we just get on the train with the tickets we’d used to come south. On we went, back down through the masses to the tracks below and northward to Camogli. We treated ourselves to gelato, headed for the hotel, and spent the rest of the afternoon at their private beach, enjoying the serenity of our beautiful little town.

*What a relief to return to Camogli and the blissful peace of the Cenobio’s private beach!*

Picture Perfect Portofino

By now we had explored Camogli, visited the much-vaunted Cinque Terre, had gone swimming in the Ligurian Sea’s crystal-clear waters, enjoyed a spritz or two, but still hadn’t seen any yachts. One stop on the local train took us to Santa Margherita Ligure and then a short bus ride brought us to picture-perfect Portofino.

The pretty town boasts upscale boutiques, inviting restaurants and a gorgeous harbor filled with yachts. There were also plenty of tourists, which at this point was not unexpected. We had a nice wander around town but the sculpture garden, Museo del Parco, we had planned to visit was closed, though we’d checked the website first.

We hiked up the hill to the lovely church of San Giorgio, lit a few candles and enjoyed the views. We realized we could probably see at least some of the art from above and took a winding path back down from the church to the harbor, enjoying the sculpture as we went.

**The sculpture garden, Museo del Parco, was closed but we saw a lot of the art from above as we walked back down to the Piazzetta from the Church of San Giorgio.**

*Here’s the view from above of Portofino’s beautiful harbor and the Museo del Parco.*

We decided to take a boat back to Santa Margherita Ligure—an excellent choice as it turned out. The boat took us on a scenic tour of the harbor where we saw plenty of pleasure craft, and spotted magnificent homes in the hills above the town.

*I’ll always say yes to a boat ride– especially on a day as beautiful as this one.*

After our all too brief boat ride, we enjoyed a walk around Santa Margherita Ligure’s waterfront and headed to the train station for the one- stop train ride back to Camogli.

Genoa

Here’s where our well-planned day took a turn. Santa Margherita Ligure’s station was small and didn’t have the large electronic signs with train numbers, expected arrival times and destinations you’ll typically find in Italian train stations. Five minutes before ours was due, a train pulled in and I insisted we get on. My husband reluctantly climbed aboard and as soon as the doors closed, I sensed I’d made a mistake. This train was much more luxurious than the locals we’d been taking up and down the coast. Sure enough, when I asked another passenger if the next stop was Camogli, he shrugged and said, “No lo so, Camogli.” –he didn’t know Camogli. Not a good sign. A conductor came along and when I showed him our tickets he laughed and announced we were on an express train to Genoa which, by the way, had nine different stations. He advised we keep our tickets, get off at Piazza Principe, and take the next local train back to Camogli.

We arrived in Genoa in less than 30 minutes. The leisurely ride back to Camogli took more than an hour and stopped no fewer than eleven times, but the views over the sea were spectacular. Lesson learned. Trains in Italy may be delayed, but they do not arrive early.

Though I still struggle with the appeal of the tourist- packed Cinque Terre and our misadventures landed us in Genoa, I loved our time in Liguria. It is a beautiful area with enormous charm, delicious food and wine, and absolutely worth a visit. I’ll definitely return to Camogli, may explore Genoa, but will give the Cinque Terre a miss next time!

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Explore Rome’s Ancient Wonders and Avoid the Crowds

Rome is the destination of choice for tens of millions of visitors annually and it seems like everyone is heading to the Eternal City this year. Where do all those tourists go? Only the Vatican gets more visitors than the Colosseum and both boast more than 4 million each year. Rome has more monuments than any other city in the world, so why fight the crowds when there are so many other archeological marvels to see in Bella Roma?

The Vatican Museums are astounding and should be on everyone’s itinerary but even with timed entry tickets, be prepared for enormous crowds.

The savvy traveler to Rome will purchase an Archeological Museum Pass. The last time we checked, 25 Euro will buy you an expedited entrance to several of Rome’s most important archeological sites and museums. The Colosseum, Forum, Palatine Hill, Baths of Diocletian, Crypta Balbi, Palazzo Massimo, Palazzo Altemps, and Baths of Caracalla are all included. The pass is available for purchase at any of these sites and is good for seven consecutive days. The Roma Pass also includes these sites plus additional museums and public transportation. It is available for 32 Euro for a two- day pass or 52 Euro for a three- day pass.

The Baths of Diocletian

The Baths of Diocletian are just across the busy Piazza Repubblica near Rome’s main train station Stazione Termini.

We have visited the Baths of Diocletian many times and have never had to wait on line to enter. On our first visit a few years ago, an expansive Henry Moore exhibition was on display throughout the baths. Seeing Moore’s sculpture, large and small, in this remarkable setting was an incredible experience.

The largest and best preserved thermal baths the Romans constructed, the Baths of Diocletian provide a respite from the crowds, outstanding architecture, art and history.

We were fortunate to see a marvelous Henry Moore exhibition staged at the Baths of Diocletian on one of our first visits here.

Even without a special exhibit on, this museum should be on your list. Built in the 4^th century, these are the largest of all the thermal baths built by the Romans. They are also among the best preserved and easy to reach since they are across the Piazza della Repubblica from Rome’s train station—Roma Termini.

Remarkably preserved Roman mosaics line the floors and some walls within the Baths of Diocletian.

A memorable experience awaits visitors to this archeological and architectural wonder.

Water was stored in these great halls where sculpture now stands.

If you happen to visit the in the evening, you’ll have the opportunity to walk inside the enormous baths bathed in blue light—a simulation of sorts of what the ancient Roman experience may have been. Day or evening, don’t miss this astounding repository of Rome’s magnificent history.

The large marble-clad pool, called the natatio, was about 4,000 square meters and one meter deep. Visitors are free to wander throughout the pool areas and great halls.

In 1561, Michelangelo was given the job of converting the Bath’s frigidarium into a church. He created the beautiful Basilica Santa Maria degli Angeli on the site, along with the cloister he designed. He likely did not live long enough to oversee its construction though it is referred to as Michelangelo’s Cloister. More than 400 works of art, including sculpture, reliefs, altars and more are displayed in the cloister and gardens.

The cloister of Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri, referred to as Michelangelo’s Cloister, contains hundreds of statues, sculpture, altars and sarcophagi.

This is one of several colossal animal heads that were found near Trajan’s Column in 1586 and brought to the cloister.

Inside the National Roman Museum, which has been housed at the Baths of Diocletian since 1889, visitors will find three floors of extraordinary exhibitions and works of art ranging from important documents related to Roman life, culture and commerce through the centuries, to classic sculpture, funerary objects, mosaics and much more.

Art and artifacts from the 5th century BC to the 4th century AD are displayed in the area known as the Epigraphic Museum, part of the National Roman Museum.

Fascinating documents and antiquities relating to Roman life, culture and commerce through the centuries bring the Roman experience to life.

We have visited the Baths of Diocletian numerous times and always spend many more hours than we planned– wandering through the Baths, the garden and cloister, and of course, the marvelous museum and beautiful Michelangelo-designed church, all located on this easy- to- reach site. There is so much to see here. Don’t miss it!

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Built at the behest of Jesuit priest Massimiliano Massimo, whose family had owned the land prior to the construction of Rome’s Termini Station, Palazzo Massimo was constructed between 1883 and 1887.

Also near the Baths of Diocletian you’ll find the stunning Palazzo Massimo alle Terme. This is another of Rome’s great treasures not found on many traveller’s itineraries. The Palazzo Massimo gives visitors a rare look into what life was like for upper class Romans during the empire’s heyday.

Detail of one of the many beautifully preserved mosaics on display at Palazzo Massimo alle Terme.

Here you’ll discover beautifully preserved mosaics, frescoes, stuccoes and entire rooms rebuilt inside the museum from Imperial Roman villas. The beautiful painted garden from Livia’s Villa (constructed 75-50 BC) now displayed here, offers a serene escape in the heart of the busy city.

These carefully restored painted walls once adorned the villa belonging to Livia, wife of Augustus.

This reconstructed room from Villa Farnesina gives a glimpse into upper class Roman life in the 1st century BC.

These bronze arms were fittings from one of two ceremonial vessels owned by Caligula and recovered from Lake Nemi between World Wars I and II. The ships were destroyed during WWII.

Portraits from the Republican to the Imperial era, Greek and Roman sculpture (including the famous Hermaphroditus Asleep from the 2^nd Century), jewelry, furnishings, and even a mummy of an eight-year old are included in the museum’s collections.

The Boxer (also called The Pugilist) seems to gaze plaintively at visitors through his lost eyes. This magnificent sculpture may date from the 4th century BC and was found on Quirinal Hill.

The Lancellotti Discobolos, in the foreground, is another important sculpture from the Antonine period on view at Palazzo Massimo.

Palazzo Altemps

This peaceful courtyard gives visitors to Palazza Altemps quiet respite from the busy Piazza Navona just outside.

Just off the busy Piazza Navona is Palazzo Altemps. This gorgeous 15^th century palace was once home to Cardinal Altemps and has been a part of the Roman National Museum since 1997.

Classical sculpture and elaborately decorated ceilings line the loggia.

The Palazzo includes works ranging from Egyptian antiquities, Greek and Roman sculpture, original frescoes, and the spectacular Ludovisi Collection.

The Ludovisi Fury is thought to be a copy of a Greek work, likely from the 2nd century. The left side of the face was cut horizontally to provide stability and is sometimes called the Sleeping Fury.

Ancient sculpture and reliefs from important collections, notable Egyptian artifacts, frescoes from 70-100 AD, and other antiquities are all housed in the museum’s galleries.

The 104 sculptures that comprise the collection, begun by Cardinal Ludovico Ludovisi in the early 1620s and purchased by the Italian government in 1901, is widely regarded as the centerpiece of the Palazzo Altemps. Be sure to see the famous Ludovisi Throne.

Detail of one of the colossal sculptures displayed at the Palazzo.

The museum also houses several other important collections including the Mattei and “Dragon Collection” which has nothing to do with mythical beasts but is instead the works owned by the del Drago family. Visitors will also find the Pallavicini Rospigliosi Frescoes, which date from 70-100 AD, and notable art and significant artifacts in the Altemps’ Egyptian and Antiquarian collections.

The beautiful Church of San Aniceto is located within the Palazzo Altemps– a serene spot for contemplation and prayer.

Step inside the Church of San Aniceto, which is located within the palazzo and was built in 1617 to house the saint’s remains, for a meditative moment or two and leave the noise and crowds behind.

Crypta Balbi

Crypta Balbi’s excavations show how Rome developed from antiquity through the 20th century, building layer upon layer from its ancient beginnings.

You will not be fighting crowds at Crypta Balbi, also part of the National Roman Museum. It is a wonderful archeological site and should be on your list of remarkable places to see. A subterranean tour through excavations of ancient buildings, combined with fascinating exhibitions, takes visitors on a historical journey from Rome’s earliest beginnings through the 20th century.

The excavations, which give visitors a fascinating look at the city’s earliest development, began in 1981.

Frescoes, such as these from Santa Maria in Via Lata can be found upstairs in the “Rome from Antiquity to Middle Ages” section of the museum.

Ceramics, glass fragments, coins, tools and other items from Roman daily life centuries ago are on display.

Be aware that there are not always English speaking guides available to accompany you through the excavations below the museum but the exhibitions upstairs have information in English. Even without a guide, it is worth exploring the lower level. The museum is at Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, just around the corner from the Largo di Torre Argentina where you’ll find interesting ruins, a sunken excavation site and a cat sanctuary and adoption point.

The Largo di Torre Argentina is home to ancient Roman ruins and a cat sanctuary.

The Pantheon

The Pantheon is one of Rome’s most important and most visited ancient wonders.

The Pantheon is one of ancient Rome’s most glorious structures and has been in continual use since it was built by Marcus Agrippa in 31 BC and rebuilt by the Emperor Hadrian 125-118 AD. Illuminated by the oculus in its magnificent dome, the Pantheon boasts the largest masonry vault ever constructed. As of July 3, 2023 a 5 Euro fee is required to enter. Tickets are available online and onsite and nearly 3,800 were sold the first day.

Originally built in 31 BC by Marcus Agrippa, this is the largest masonry vault ever constructed and it is spectacular.

We have been here when the sun is streaming in through the oculus as well as when the rain is pouring down—a visit here is a memorable experience at any time.

Sculpture, paintings and sacred art adorn the interior of the Pantheon.

The esteemed Italian painter Raphael and Italy’s first king, Vittorio Emanuel II, are both buried here. Go early in the morning to beat the crowds.

Arrive here any time after early morning and be prepared for large crowds and the occasional, “Silencio,” shouted by guards.

After you’ve finished marveling at the immense beauty inside the Pantheon, take a walk around the exterior. You can see excavations of the shops and dwellings that surrounded the building during the era of Imperial Rome.

Shops and homes were once built into the Pantheon’s exterior walls. Visitors can see the remains today.

Close to this magnificent building you’ll find the classic Armando Al Pantheon. Open for lunch and dinner, except on Saturday nights and Sundays, this place serves traditional Roman cuisine. Reservations are essential as it’s popular with locals and tourists.

The Colosseum

If you’ve never visited Rome before, you’ll need to brave the crowds and see the Colosseum.

I’m not suggesting you skip the Colosseum. In fact, if you’re planning to head over that way, be sure to include the Forum and Palatine Hill in your plans. Just be prepared. Lines are less long early in the morning, but there are always lines. If you have an Archeological Pass or Roma Pass you get to go on a much shorter line than those without—just look for the signs. The Colosseum, which took just under 10 years to build, was completed in 80 AD and is the largest amphitheater ever constructed.

Pack your patience and your most comfortable walking shoes. Crowds are huge and steps are steep and unforgiving at the Colosseum–one of Rome’s most visited sites.

There are rules, though apparently not always observed.

You’ll be hiking up and down some very steep stone steps and rocky, uneven walk ways in both the Colosseum and the Forum. There is no shade so wear a hat or take an umbrella to keep the sun off and bring a bottle of water if it’s a hot day. There are no services or shops. Some areas are handicapped accessible but inquire before setting off.

The Forum

The Forum tempts the imagination with incredible Imperial Roman ruins.

The Roman Forum was the heart of the ancient city and the ruins are spectacular. Some of the highlights include the Arch of Titus (through which most visitors enter), the Temple of Saturn, and the Temple of Vesta. The Sacra Via, or sacred road, runs through the ancient site.

Uneven walkways and cobbled paths at the Forum call for comfortable shoes. Bring a hat and water– there’s no shade and no conveniences inside the gates.

Be aware that unlike the Colosseum, there are no facilities once you are in the Forum—no bathrooms, snack shops, water fountains or souvenir vendors inside the gates. Beware of pickpockets and “for hire” guides at both the Colosseum and the Forum. The latter often dupe visitors into thinking they must buy a guided tour to get inside, which is not true.

Visitors take a walk through ancient history on original Roman roads. Most significant sites are signed in English and Italian but a guidebook will be handy here.

All that walking gave us an appetite. We had a good lunch across from the Colosseum at Angelino ai Fori dal 1947 at Largo Ricci #40, 06.6791121. We expected high prices and mediocre food since it’s so close to several major tourist sites but were pleasantly surprised by both the food and the prices.

We enjoyed a delicious lunch on the patio at Angelino ai Fori.

If you are prepared for a short journey, take a trip to Ostia Antica. Ancient Ostia was once a bustling seaside town built on the Tiber River where it enters the Mediterranean Sea, but now, 2,000 years later, it is four kilometers from the water. We found the ancient site even more interesting than the Forum and far less crowded. We enjoyed a picnic here one fine afternoon and learned, once we had secured a knowledgeable guide of the area, that we’d had our lunch seated on a burial site. There are spectacular ruins of baths, a theater, apartment houses (some with painting still intact), mosaics, and much more to see in the excavations of this once fortified city.

These are just a few of the astounding archeological treasures found nowhere else but Rome. Put on your walking shoes and go explore this ancient and vibrant city.

PS If you’re looking for restaurant recommendations near the historic center or want to know where to go for gelato, reach out!

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An Afternoon with Otzi the Iceman

He’s an international man of mystery, media darling, and a murder victim. Otzi the Iceman was brutally killed about 5,300 years ago and is the oldest known natural human mummy in Europe. A German couple hiking the Otzal Alps discovered his body on September 19, 1991 on a glacier in Italy about 100 meters across the Austrian border — thus his nickname. We spent an afternoon with Otzi, not far from his birthplace in the Dolomites.

*Otzi’s final resting place is the South Tyrol Museum of Archeology in Bolzano Bozen, not far from where he was born and where his body was discovered 5,300 years later.*

After a brief custody dispute— both Austria and Italy laid claim to Otzi–research on his mummified body began at Innsbruck University in Austria. He has found a final resting place at Italy’s South Tyrol Museum of Archeology in Bolzano Bozen. Today, the entire museum is dedicated to Otzi and life in the Copper Age. Visitors can peek through a small glass window to view Otzi’s body, which is kept in a climate controlled, sealed vault. Be patient, there is always a line to see him.

*Otzi’s body is preserved in a viewable, climate- controlled vault but signage asks visitors to be respectful and refrain from photographing his remains. This acrylic model is provided for photos.*

*Scientists have created a remarkably life-like reconstruction of Otzi, one of the world’s most fascinating murder victims and Europe’s oldest natural human mummy.*

A 3-D reconstruction gives a surprisingly lifelike depiction of what Otzi would have looked like. He was believed to be 45 years old when he met his untimely death. At 5’3’’ and 110 lbs., he was short and stocky, but muscular. He wasn’t in the pink of health when his life was cut short, though. He had tooth decay, parasites and H. pylori, which would have caused numerous gastric issues. Scientists were able to retrieve and identify the contents of his stomach which included his last meal—red deer meat, unleavened bread and fruit and an herb called hop hornbeam. He likely took that to ease his tummy troubles. His hair had high levels of arsenic and copper particles, possibly from smelting copper, which may also have contributed to his ill health. None of these things killed him though.

*Otzi’s goat hide leggings, bearskin hat, and other garments were remarkably well preserved after 5,300 years entombed in a glacier.*

*Otzi’s leggings would have extended into his shoes for warmth and protection from the snow and rain.*

The garments and accessories Otzi was wearing when he met his demise were remarkably well preserved by his years of glacial entombment. His lambskin loincloth, goat hide coat and leggings, and bearskin hat are all on exhibit, along with what remains of his shoes with their cow hide laces. His shoes are really something to see- made from bearskin soles, deer hide uppers and tree bark netting, they were lined with grasses that acted like socks and cushioned his feet for the long treks he made through the mountains.

*Bearskin, deerskin, tree bark netting and hay-like grasses went into the construction of his shoes. Here you can see the structural foundation as well as what remains of his well worn shoes.*

Even his deerskin quiver and arrows survive. Because of the variety of animal skins used in his clothing and accessories, researchers believe that Otzi kept and herded domesticated animals like sheep, goats and cows, earlier than was previously thought.

*Scientists discovered blood, not his own, on Otzi’s goat skin coat, adding to the mystery around his murder.*

He also had a grass cape with him, either to wear as a raincoat or to sleep upon—or maybe both. Displays show how all of his garments fit together to protect him from the elements—pretty complicated!

*Drawings indicate how Otzi would have dressed. Fitting each item together was a lot more complicated than you’d imagine.*

Otzi liked ink! He is in the Guinness Book of World Records for being the oldest person on earth to sport tattoos. His body is adorned with 61 of them made by rubbing charcoal dust into fresh wounds. These are certainly not the elaborate tattoos seen today—they’re mostly crosses and lines on his back, ribs, wrist and legs and may have been used for pain relief.

*The copper head on Otzi’s axe came from far-away Tuscany, which meant he traveled widely or traded or both.*

Researchers have been able to piece together a great deal about the life and times of Otzi the Iceman based on his clothing and the items found alongside him. He had a copper-bladed axe, which would have made him a high-status individual. The copper was from Tuscany, quite a distance away, so he traveled or traded or both. He also had a flint dagger from the Lake Garda area, arrows, incomplete shafts and longbow, plus a net. Otzi was a hunter.

*The articles found near his body give us great insights into Otzi’s lifestyle and activities. A backpack frame, shown here, was one of many personal belongings discovered with him in 1991.*

He had several wooden tools used to fashion clothes or utensils—he would have needed these to make repairs or construct needed items on his long treks. He also had a birch bark cylinder likely used to carry hot embers for quickly starting a cook fire and a complex fire-starting kit. These would have been handy on his journeys for cooking and for warmth. Otzi has shown us that people travelled more widely than previously believed during the Copper Age, trading goods, services and knowledge.

*Visitors can examine Otzi’s clothing, weapons, even the contents of his last meal, and learn what scientists have finally determined was his cause of death.*

Researchers know what the iceman wore and ate and likely what he did for a living, but mystery surrounded his murder until 2012. Was he struck in the head with a blunt object? Stabbed? Shot in the back with an arrow? Was there a fight? Or all of these things? Scrappy Otzi was definitely a hunter and a fighter. Blood from four different individuals was found on Otzi’s dagger, coat and on one of his arrows which could mean a battle. He had several broken ribs that had healed before death, and he had been struck in the head. His brain had evidence of clots which could have been from blunt force trauma that then caused stroke or embolism. He also had stab wounds on his hands. The likeliest cause of death was the arrow lodged in his left shoulder. Finally, in 2012, researchers agreed that Otzi had bled to death from the arrow wound.

*Otzi and the mysteries surrounding him have made him a popular media subject across the globe.*

Otzi’s discovery made quite a stir worldwide and was also marked by controversy. Once the significance of the find was reported, numerous people claimed to have found the body. The museum has an exhibit detailing much of the media coverage around him. Otzi is so scientifically important; the museum has a specific evacuation plan for him should a crisis arise that could damage him. He has opened a window into life in the Copper Age that would have remained closed, had those hikers not stumbled upon him back in 1991.

*Helmut and Erika Simon, a German couple, were credited with finding Otzi’s body on the Tisenjoss Pass, just over the Austrian border in Italy, while hiking in the Otzel Alps.*

In 2012 Otzi’s genome was sequenced using a bit of his hip bone, revealing he had brown eyes, type O blood, a predisposition to heart disease, was lactose intolerant, and may have had Lyme disease. His maternal line is extinct, but his paternal lineage is intact. In 2013, 19 Austrian men from a group of 3,700 tested, shared a unique genetic mutation with Otzi. Scientists believe that his descendants would have settled between the Dolomites and Sardinia— his genetic profile has much in common with Sardinians today —and that there are likely more of them alive today.

Our afternoon with Otzi was fascinating and we’d highly recommend a visit if you’re in the Bolzano Bozen area. For more information, click here.

Listen to the World at Phoenix’s Musical Instrument Museum

If “Music is the language of the soul,” the Musical Instrument Museum speaks it fluently. The MIM, as it’s known, is home to more than 8,000 musical instruments from every country on the planet and calls itself the world’s only global music museum.

*Musical instruments from every country on earth are displayed at the MIM, sometimes along with ceremonial costumes, like this one from the Mongol people of Ulaanbaatar.*

Wonder what a theremin sounds like or even what it is? Put on your headset and watch and listen as virtuoso Clara Rockmore brings this custom-built instrument to life, moving her hands between two antennae to control pitch and volume. You’ll learn the history behind the instrument, the artist, and even see what she wore as she toured the USA with major symphonic orchestras in the 1930s.

*I’d never heard of a theremin before my visit to the MIM! Now I’ve had the chance to see, hear and even play one!*

The MIM’s interactive technology instantly syncs your headset to any video screen you stand before, allowing guests to see, hear and experience instruments we may never have even heard of, let alone seen and heard being played!

*Move your hands between two antennae to control pitch and volume on the theremin. There’s one in the Experience Gallery for visitors to try!*

Throughout the museum, thousands of instruments– historic, rare and sometimes common place– are displayed along with clothing, costumes, cultural artifacts, maps, and most importantly, information that gives perspective to the ceremonies, rituals and the role in everyday life the instruments play. The videos that accompany each exhibition take visitors on a musical journey to countries and cultures around the world and sometimes, back in time.

*Headphones sync automatically with videos as you walk through the museum.Watch and listen as Kukeri- costumed dancers chase away evil spirits with their jangling bells in Bulgaria*.

*Visit Ireland and hear the Chieftains, the country’s “Musical Ambassadors,” perform traditional Irish music.*

We started our visit at the MIM’s special exhibition, Treasures: Legendary Musical Instruments. Rare, historically significant and stunningly beautiful instruments from around the world, spanning thousands of years of musical history, are on display along with videos that allow you to hear these incredible instruments being played.

*Where else will you see and hear an ancient Greek trumpet that may be the only one of its kind still in existence*?

Nowhere else will you experience the sounds and sight of a Salpinx, an ancient Greek trumpet (300 BCE-200 CE) believed to be the only one of its kind still in existence! You’ll see and hear renowned musician Jake Shimabakuro play a Kumu tenor ukulele handcrafted of Koa wood, mahogany, mother-of pearl, ebony, turquoise, abalone and onyx, built specifically for him. View fragments of a 4,500-year-old lyre from Ur, Mesopotamia (modern day Iraq), along with the oldest intact guitar on earth, and Jimi Hendrix’s iconic Black Widow guitar.

*The oldest intact guitar in the world is at the MIM along with Jimi Hendrix’s famous Black Widow*, *shown below.*

*Anthropomorphic harps from the Ngandi people of the Central African Republic are among the rare instruments in the **Treasures** exhibition and are a part of the MIM’s permanent collection.*

The collection includes a 1584 harpsichord from Belgium made from wood, bird quill, iron, felt, paper and paint, and anthropomorphic harps from the Ngandi people of the Central African Republic (1850-1875). There are fiddles, mandolins, drums, bells, lutes, and flutes– some shown being played by world-class musicians. In the center of it all is a spectacular bronze-gilded grand piano built by the Erard Company in Paris for the 1889 Exposition Universelle, where the Eiffel Tower was introduced to the world.

*This splendid piano was unveiled at the 1889 Exposition Universelle in Paris at the same time as the Eiffel Tower.*

Next door to Treasures, the Artist Gallery features musicians from nearly every genre you can think of from hip hop to country. Missed Woodstock? The MIM has it covered with instruments, costumes, memorabilia and video of that epic event thanks to donations by people who performed there including Carlos Santana, Joan Baez and John Sebastian.

*Memorabilia, musical instruments and concert performances by numerous artists who played the iconic festival help capture the spirit of Woodstock.*

*I saw the legendary drummer performing at New York City’s Rainbow Room many years ago though I don’t know if Buddy was playing this particular set of drums*.

The white, marine pearl Swingerland drum set the legendary Buddy Rich played many times on The Tonight Show hosted by Johnny Carson (also a drummer by the way) is here. So is the Steinway piano John Lennon composed Imagine on and the guitar Eric Clapton used to record Layla. Country music fans will find the Chet Atkin’s Signature electric archtop guitar donated by Duane Eddy and hear Glen Campbell strumming, singing and playing the bagpipes, via video at the MIM.

Photos, video, drums, even Tito Puente’s dazzling jacket are here along with one of the “Queen of Salsa” Celia Cruz’s gorgeous stage dresses and maracas. Cruz, a five-time Grammy -award winner sometimes performed and recorded with Puente.

Elvis Presley, Dick Dale, Black Eyed Peas, Johnny Cash and Maroon 5 are just a few of the artists sharing the spotlight in this enormous gallery which rotates its 40 exhibitions to include music icons from around the world.

*The King is among the legendary performers in the Artists Gallery, of course*!

In the Mechanical Music Gallery, the MIM has treasures ranging from intricate music boxes to player pianos to my personal favorite, the orchestrion named Apollonia. Built in 1926 in Antwerp, she is 25 feet wide, seven feet tall and weighs two tons. After retiring from a career touring the dance halls of Europe, Apollonia was refurbished in 1950 and found her way to the USA. Now she entertains MIM’s visitors daily at noon and 3 p.m. How extraordinary to experience the same music played on identical instruments audiences enjoyed nearly one hundred years ago!

*Apollonian entertains visitors daily at noon and 3 p.m. Don’t miss a chance to hear this performance!*

*Intricate music boxes, dancing puppets, player pianos and more fill the Mechanical Music Gallery.*

Upstairs, in the Geographic Galleries, you’ll tour the world through music—the bridge that connects us all. Start in Africa, where human civilization began, and wind your way through the continent from Angola to Zimbabwe.

*Start your journey in Africa, where human civilization began and prepared to be amazed at the sheer variety of instruments played on that continent.*

Stunning stringed instruments, drums, Nigerian bronze bells from the eighth century, an enormous 18- key xylophone from Ghana, Ngoni lutes from Mali, and more held our attention as we traveled from country to country learning about cultures, languages and the music people make a world away from our home. Move on to the Middle East then continue your tour through Asia.

In 17th century Japan, displaced Samuri warriors often became Komuso monks, wandering the countryside playing the shakuhachi. Wearing a basket over their head signified detachment from the material world.

*Take a musical journey through every country in the world at the MIM. Just about every instrument imaginable– is here in one gallery or another!*

*No area of the globe is left unexplored -even instruments from the subarctic are here!*

Cross the seas to Oceania and Latin America. Experience Europe’s musical treasures–opera, ballet and orchestral instruments and performances– and finally, explore genres from country to classical to jazz and even marching band music in North America. Who knew Elkhart, Indiana played such a significant role in our musical history?

This 48K Grand Jumbo sousaphone (left) was manufactured in Elkhart, IN, the home of most American band instrument companies. Master engraver Julian Stenberg created this for a nationwide promotional tour for the C.G. Conn company’s 50th anniversary.

Personally, I was astounded to see how musical instruments traveled and evolved across borders and through time. We saw bagpipes in one form or another, made from materials ranging from fabric to animal skin, not only from Scotland, but also Tunisia, Croatia, Slovakia, France, Spain, Romania and Sweden.

*Above are bagpipes from Tulum, Turkey while the instrument below is from the Iranian* *province of Hormozgan.*

Though closely associated with the Scottish Highlands, bagpipes have been around for 2,000 years and may have originated in Turkey, according to the MIM.

*Bagpipes may have originated in Turkey more than 2,000 years ago.* *This display shows wind, string and percussion instruments from Turkey’s countryside and urban areas.*

Don’t leave the MIM before stopping in the Experience Gallery where visitors of all ages are not only invited but encouraged to make their own kind of music.

*The gamelan shown here is displayed in the Geographic Galleries but there is also a gamelan available for visitors to play in the Experience Gallery. Give it a try!*

Drums are found in every country. These Turkish kettle drums from the 1920’s are made from copper covered in camel skin and are part of the **Treasures** exhibit. There’s a huge communal drum for visitors to play in the Experience Gallery.

Bang a gong, play a zither, try your hand at the theremin or Javanese gamelan. Join your friends around the communal drum and make a joyful noise! Express your own ‘Language of the Soul”—after all, that’s what this magnificent museum is all about. Learn more at mim.org.

Note: Treasures: Legendary Musical Instruments was a special exhibition that has closed since I originally posted this article, but the majority of the rare instruments highlighted in the exhibit are part of MIM’s permanent collection and can still be seen and experienced at the museum.

California’s High Desert Hidden Gems: Noah Purifoy’s Outdoor Desert Museum

I first learned about Noah Purifoy’s wondrous Outdoor Desert Museum while planning a trip to Joshua Tree National Park during the COVID pandemic. Museums, and most cultural outlets, were closed in Southern California where I live, and pretty much everywhere else, too. When I learned about an outdoor museum close to the town of Joshua Tree, I knew we had to go!

*Welcome to Noah Purifoy’s Outdoor Desert Museum of Assemblage Sculpture.*

After spending most of the day hiking in the strange but beautiful Joshua Tree National Park, we headed out for a look at another high desert gem—Noah Purifoy’s Outdoor Desert Museum of Assemblage Art. We drove through the small town of Joshua Tree, into the scrubby desert landscape, past large lots and small houses–more than a few surrounded by chain link fences. In this part of Southern California, pick-up trucks are far more popular than Porsches.

*The high desert landscape is the perfect setting for Mr. Purifoy’s assemblage art. Shipwrecked is in the foreground with White House to the left.*

Up and down the lonely roads we drove until our turn- off onto an unpaved road that ended in a dirt lot. A triumphal arch of tires spelling out W-E-L-C-O-M-E in a non- conformist way, let us know we had arrived.

*Please don’t jump on the Band Wagon, 1995. Tempting as it is, visitors are asked to refrain from touching or climbing on the sculptures.*

*Bowling balls play a starring role in a number of Mr. Purifoy’s sculptures.*

*Found materials of all kinds make up the monumental sculpture in the Outdoor Desert Museum, as in this work called Aurora Borealis.*

I have been fascinated by assemblage art for a long time. Created from found materials, assemblage art personifies the old saying, “One man’s trash is another’s treasure,” and shows how a creative mind can make something provocative, beautiful, and meaningful from goods that might otherwise have been tossed on the trash heap. Noah Purifoy’s Outdoor Desert Museum of Assemblage Sculpture is the embodiment of that.

*1996 Toilet Bowl Sculpture is just one of the 30 inventive and monumental assemblage sculptures on the 10-acre art site.*

Too often, we find ourselves exploring these out-of-the-way places alone. We were happy to see others here experiencing these amazing art installations.

*Purifoy’s work can be poignant and provocative. This piece is called White/Colored.*

*Homelessness and shelter are among the social themes Purifoy explores in his work.*

A renowned assemblage artist, Noah Purifoy first came to national attention with sculpture he created using burnt debris from the 1965 Watts Riots in Los Angeles. His work was part of 66 Signs of Neon, a landmark group exhibition that traveled across America and abroad from 1966- 1971.

*Prominently positioned, The White House includes plumbing ware and bowling balls. It took Purifoy three years to create.*

*Free brochures lead visitors on a self-guided tour of the 10-acre site. Docent-led visits for groups can be arranged through the Noah Purifoy Foundation.*

Purifoy was the founder and first director of the Watts Tower Art Center and was later appointed to the California Arts Council, a position he held for more than a decade. His work there included bringing art into California’s State Prison system under the Artists in Social Institutions program he initiated.

*This piece, called Kirby Express, was created from old Kirby vacuum cleaners and bicycle parts among other things.*

*Here’s Kirby Express from a different vantage point with Shipwrecked and Carousel to the left.*

*No Contest (Bicycles) is dwarfed by a Joshua Tree, the area’s namesake desert plant.*

Long a fixture on LA’s art scene, Purifoy, who was born in Alabama in 1917, moved to Joshua Tree in California’s high desert in 1989. He began populating his 10-acre sculpture park with works of all shapes and sizes using materials ranging from discarded toilets to tires and just about everything in between. Industrial materials, clothing, wood, metal, rubber, concrete and old appliances all found their way into Purifoy’s art.

*From the Point of View of the Little People, 1994.*

*Abstract, whimsical, inventive and thought provoking, Purifoy’s works are best experienced by a visit to his amazing desert museum.*

*Piles of old chairs became art in Purifoy’s wildly creative hands.*

From 1989 until his death in 2004, Purifoy worked to create a public art space that continues to attract visitors from across the country and around the world. Admission to the sculpture park is free but donations are welcome. The Outdoor Desert Museum is open daily.

*The Gas Station conveys a certain attitude. The White House is to the left.*

*Admission is free but donations are welcome.*

Purifoy’s work can be seen at the Whitney Museum of American Art in New York, Los Angeles County Museum of Art, National Gallery of Art in Washington, DC, as well as other prestigious art institutions here and abroad. These eminent museums have long since reopened their doors, but visitors to Southern California may well want to head to the high desert to experience Purifoy’s final and very impressive body of work. Visit the Noah Purifoy Foundation for more information.

Lisbon’s Beautiful Belem

The Belem district is a fascinating and historic area of Lisbon that ought to be on every traveler’s itinerary—and it appeared that it was on the Sunday we spent there! Packed with monuments, museums and many of Lisbon’s “must see” spots, it’s just about five miles from the downtown area. It’s easy to reach via bus, tram or cab. We took a 10 Euro taxi ride for the 20-minute trip from Lisbon’s city center. The tram costs less but takes nearly an hour and with so much to see, we opted to save time.

There’s plenty to see and do in Lisbon’s busy Belem area.

Belem was the launching point for many sea voyages during Portugal’s Age of Discovery. The Tower of Belem was the last thing sailors would see as they left port and the first site to welcome them home.

The Church of St. Jeronimos and its monastery are beautiful examples of the decorative Manueline architectural style.

Before setting off, many sailors would stop at the stunning Church of St. Jeronimos and its spectacular monastery to pray for a successful journey and a safe return. These gorgeous buildings are wonderful examples of the decorative Manueline architecture popular in Portugal in the late 1400s through 1500s.

St. Jeronimos and it’s spectacular monastery are among Lisbon’s most popular sites.

The entry fee for the monastery is 10 Euro and worth it. It’s stunning and surprisingly peaceful in spite of the crowds. Admission is free for the church. If you plan to attend mass, be punctual. We arrived late and no amount of pleading would make the guards open the church doors for us until services were over.

Visitors to the church can see the tomb of famed Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama and the memorial to writer Luis de Camoes.

Entry to the Church of St. Jeronimos is free but there is a fee for the monastery.

We were directed to the end of a very, very long line. After standing around for quite some time, we realized there were no lines at the other end of the building and decided to go check it out. That’s when we found the National Archeology Museum.

Avoid the long lines at St. Jeronimos by buying a combo ticket for the Archeology Museum next door for an extra two Euro.

Here’s a tip we wished we’d known–walk right past those long lines in front of the monastery and church and make your first stop in Belem the National Archeology Museum.

The museum is full of ancient treasures and antiquities, some dating back to the Iron Age.

Buy a combo ticket for the museum and the monastery (the monastery is actually in the same building as the museum). For an extra two Euro, or 12 Euro total, you can enjoy the museum’s terrific exhibitions and avoid the crowds. The museum is a treasure trove of Egyptian, Roman, Greek, and Moorish artifacts. After touring the galleries, you’ll go directly into the monastery from the museum without waiting on the ever-present line.

This was the first megalith we saw and it inspired us to seek out the Almendres Cromeleque, home to 95 of these fascinating stones near Evora in the Alentejo area.

The museum has a rich collection of Egyptian, Greek, Roman and Moorish art and antiquities. Be sure to visit the Room of Treasures in the museum. No photography is allowed in that area but the display of coins and jewelry from 1800 to 500 BC is impressive.

After touring the galleries in the National Archeology Museum, you’ll enter the Monastery directly without waiting on any additional lines.

This fascinating time line inside the monastery captures 500 years of world history in words and images.

In spite of the crowds, there are numerous serene spaces within the monastery perfect for quiet contemplation.

You may notice long lines around the bakery just up the street from the monastery. If you’ve been to Portland, Oregon, this may remind you of the lines around Voodoo Doughnuts. I’m always amazed by the patience people seem to have in their quest for particular baked goods, but back to Belem…

Lines for Casa Pasteis de Belem snake around the corner. Worth the wait? You decide.

This is the place that claims to have the original and the best Pasteis de Belem. These are little custard pastries in a flaky filo- like crust. Locals say these are good, but you’ll have to decide if they’re worth waiting for. We didn’t, but we haven’t ever waited for doughnuts either. They sell Pasteis de Belem in the Starbuck’s next door without the wait, though buying them there doesn’t quite have the same cachet. You can find these delicious pastries all over the country though they’re called Pasteis de Nata (nata is cream) or Pastel de Nata, if you’re only having one, everywhere else except Belem. Try one or two and remember to add a healthy shake of cinnamon and powdered sugar on top!

Time for lunch or dinner? Turn down this little street to find Enoteca de Belem.

If you’re hungry for a meal, we highly recommend the Enoteca de Belem (+351) 213 631 511 Travessa do Marta Pinto, 12. Located on a little alley off the main street in Belem, this is a terrific choice for lunch or dinner. It’s very small so book a table or prepare to be disappointed.

We were delighted with our lunch at Enoteca de Belem. Here’s a peak at the menu.

Sitting at the bar gave us a chance to learn about and taste delicious Portuguese wines.

We sat at the bar since we had missed our reservation time—the museum and monastery were so fascinating we spent far longer than we had anticipated. The bar turned out to be perfect for us because in addition to a fabulous lunch, we had a great chat and learned quite a bit about Portuguese wines and history.

The perfectly prepared scallops with cauliflower puree and quail eggs were as delicious as they looked.

The freshly caught grouper was the fish of the day. Served with “clam rice,” it was an incredibly flavorful dish.

Portuguese cuisine often pairs fish and pork. The tender grilled octopus and spicy chorizo was perfection on a plate.

This classic dessert, Papo de Anjo, reminded us of an upgraded rice pudding. Comfort food at its best!

Our lunch was incredible and one of the best meals we had in Lisbon. Try the scallops to start and the grouper or cod if they have it.

When we asked for the wine list, we were handed these vintage binoculars and instructed to look around and choose whatever we were interested in from the shelves above the bar. There was a printed list, as well, but selections change regularly– thus the binoculars.

We opted for wines by the glass so we could sample several. The staff were well- versed in the wide selection available and happy to make suggestions and answer questions.

The knowledgeable staff will be glad to help you match the appropriate wines to your food selections.

Sailboats and other pleasure craft ply the waters off the embarcadero. The Hippotrip looked like Lisbon’s version of the Boston Duck Tours. Could be fun, but we didn’t try it.

Next, take a walk along the water down to the Monument to the Discoveries, which honors Prince Henry the Navigator, and was built in 1960 to commemorate the 500^th anniversary of his death. Henry’s mother, Queen Filipa of Lancaster, Vasco da Gama, Magellan, King Manuel I and the poet Camoes are all depicted on the monument.

The busy waterfront is the perfect place to stroll and people watch. It’s possible to go inside the Monument to the Discoveries, which commemorates the 500th anniversary of the death of Henry the Navigator.

The Tower of Belem was the last bit of home Portuguese sailors saw as they set off to sea. It offers beautiful views but be prepared for long lines if you’d like to climb the 120 steps to the top.

Further on, you’ll see the famous Tower of Belem. It’s possible to climb 120 steps to the top of the tower for the views. Lines can be quite long. Let’s face it—there are lines for nearly everything you’ll want to see in this area so just be prepared for that. There’s an Atlas Hotel along the way with a nice terrace, perfect for an apperitivo if you’re ready for a break from touring– and the lines.

There is a lovely park near the waterfront and we happened to catch a good- sized open air market there on our visit.

On our walk back, we came upon an open air market selling everything from hand crafted ceramics, art and jewelry, to tea towels and mass-produced souvenirs. There was also a lively folk dance competition taking place in the park and we simply had to stop and watch for a while. It was delightful!

Troupe after troupe of talented folk dancers took the stage in the park. We joined the crowd to cheer them on.

Near the stage where the dancers competed, we spotted this pavilion. It was a 2012 gift from the Royal Thai Government to Portugal, celebrating 500 years of bilateral relations between the two nations.

We wished we had more time in Belem. We would like to have seen the Maritime Museum, Coaches Museum and the Ajuda Palace. Next time for sure!

Porto—Sinners, Saints, Art, and of course, Plenty of Port

Portugal’s second largest city, Porto, or Oporto as the British called it, has a vibrant cultural scene, beautiful churches and a fascinating history, but for many, it’s all about the port.

Port!

Port and port tastings draw visitors from all over the world —after all, the city is named for the fortified wine. All the big port houses are here, along with smaller cellars worth investigating. Just across the river in Vila Nova de Gaia, you’ll find Sandeman, Taylor Fladgate, Grahams, Ferreira, Calem, Croft, Cruz, Ramos Pintos, Kopke, Cockburn and many others. Individual port houses vary in their offerings– there are guided tours, self-guided visits, port tastings, retail shops and several have restaurants on site.

Since there is so much to do in Porto and we had already spent time in the Douro Valley where the grapes for port are grown and the production of the fortified wine occurs, we decided to visit just one port house. We chose Taylor Fladgate because we also wanted to have lunch at Barao de Fladgate. Food is an important part of the travel experience!

Taylor offers a self- guided tour (with audio available in English) and port tastings in the garden afterwards. No reservations are needed for tours but they are required for lunch.

The self-guided tour, which includes a visit to the cellars, was fun and informative.

Visitors learn about the history of the wine, the area it comes from, and port production through photos, a short film and exhibits at Taylor Fladgate.

We thoroughly enjoyed our tour, which covered the history and “how to” of port production, interesting information about the families behind the cellar, and included a short film, static exhibits, photographs, and a cellar visit.

Afterwards we were entertained by a group of peacocks and one very loud, very busy rooster who was clearly in charge, during our tasting in Taylor’s garden. There is also a well-stocked shop on the premises with relative bargains compared to the prices you’ll pay in the U.S. for ports of this quality.

Visitors have numerous choices for their port tasting.

This fellow clearly ruled the roost and let those peacocks know it.

Taylor Fladgate is the only port house we visited in both our visits to Porto, so we can’t give details on the others, though Grahams was also highly recommended. Check with all those you’re interested in for specifics.

Many of the larger port houses have tours and tastings. Check individual websites for updated information and to make reservations where required.

A water taxi goes back and forth from Porto to Vila Novo de Gaia for about 3 euro. It’s a short but pleasant ride and sometimes you can see the local boys jumping off the lower level of the Eiffel Bridge to the river below.

Taking a water taxi is a nice way to cross the Douro after port tasting and exploring Vila Nova de Gaia.

If you are a serious port person or just want to learn more and sample some of Portugal’s best known export, look into a visit at the Douro and Port Wine Institute’s Interpretive Center. A word of warning – port is a high alcohol, fortified wine so taste judiciously.

Museu Serralves– Contemporary Collections

A peek inside the enormous Anish Kapoor installation.

As we said, there’s much more to Porto than port. For contemporary art lovers, the Museu Serralves is a top draw. The museum, which showcases contemporary art from the 1960s through the present, recently celebrated its 30th anniversary. Its vast collection includes more than 4,400 works either owned by the foundation or on long- term loan. Located in a beautiful park-like setting, it’s easy to reach by public transport, cab or Uber.

There are more than 4,400 works of contemporary art in the Museu Serralves’ collections.

Numerous models of famous works by Anish Kapoor, including Cloud Gate, informally known as the Chicago “Bean”, were on exhibit when we visited the museum.

The Incredible Hulk has international appeal.

There was so much to see and experience, we wound up spending almost all day at the Museu Serralves.

Some visitors practiced yoga and danced inside this Kapoor installation.

Museu National Soares dos Reis–– Porto’s First Public Art Museum

The oldest museum and first public art museum in Porto, the Museu National Soares dos Reis has been located in the beautiful 18th century Carrancas Palace since 1940.

“The Presence of History” by Pedro Valdez Cardoso, greets visitors at the Museu National Soares dos Reis. Duct tape and found objects were used to construct the sculpture.

The museum was originally created as a repository for artifacts like these, seized when the government dissolved monasteries throughout Portugal. — A 1934 terracotta sculpture by Canto da Maya is one thousands of pieces on display at Porto’s very first public art museum.

The museum was created as a repository for confiscated property seized when monasteries in Porto and other Portuguese cities, like Coimbra, were dissolved by the government.

The museum was created to house art and other treasures like these, seized when the government dissolved monasteries throughout Portugal.

Ceramics, glassware, textiles and furnishing are among the decorative arts on display here.

The museum’s collections include sculpture, paintings, textiles, furniture, ceramics, jewels and works such as a Roman sarcophagus found in the Alentejo region dating from the 3rd century, an 18th century French tapestry that tells the life story of Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama, and contemporary sculpture by Portuguese artists like Pedro Valdez Cardoso.

Portuguese Centre of Photography

Stories of spycraft, crime and photography converge at the Portuguese Centre of Photography near the Torre dos Clerigos. Yes, there are photo exhibits, but there’s much more in store for visitors here. The building itself, a former prison, is part of the story.

Housed in a former prison, the Centre of Photography includes exhibits about the people once incarcerated here.

Visitors can see cameras of every description including rare daguerreotypes, antique wooden cameras, spy cameras, and even disposable cameras. There are also exhibits about the prison and the people incarcerated within its walls, including political prisoners during the dark days of Salazar’s reign.

The Centre of Photography has special exhibitions as well as a permanent collection for visitors to enjoy.

The museum has revolving photo exhibitions as well as a permanent collection. We saw a fascinating exhibit of photos by and about the artist Frieda Kahlo.

Spy cameras used during Salazar’s tenure are on display along with vintage cameras and much more at the Portuguese Centre of Photography.

Former prison cells now house exhibitions at the Portuguese Centre of Photography.

Clerigos Tower– Torre dos Clerigos

While you’re in the area, consider a visit to the Clerigos Tower–– Torre dos Clerigos. A beautiful example of baroque architecture and a national monument since 1910, the tower offers expansive views of Porto.

Take a tour of this beautiful baroque landmark, a national monument since 1910.

Free or guided tours of this Porto landmark are available.

Se do Porto — The Cathedral of Porto and Churches Worth a Visit

A view of Porto’s Cathedral, or Se, at the top of the Praca da Batalha.

The Catholic Church has a major presence in Portugal and Porto has many marvelous churches filled with exquisite paintings, sculpture and azulejos. Visit the magnificent Porto Cathedral (Se do Porto) located in the Batalha area, the highest point in the city for the art and the views.

Though you’ll often read travel stories where you may be directed to “visit the Se Cathedral”, Se is the Portuguese word for cathedral, like duomo in Italian. Igreja means church. It is free to enter the Se but there is a small fee to visit the tower.

Inside the opulent Se do Porto, resplendent in gold and silver.

The Church of St.Francis or Igreja de Soa Francisco, Igreja do Carmo and the Carmelitas Church right next door, are also worth a visit.

Stop into Porto’s beautiful churches for some quiet reflection and to enjoy the art treasures within.

Located in Porto’s historic center in the building it has occupied since the mid 16^th century, MMIPO, the Museum of the Church of the Misericordia is worth a visit for its paintings, sculpture, religious articles and exhibits that tell the history of Porto’s Holy House of Mercy and the city itself. A visit to the museum includes entry to the church and is the only way to see it.

Porto’s Museum of the Church of Misericordia or Holy House of Mercy includes admission to the church, as well as the opportunity to view the fine art on exhibit.

Shop

If retail therapy is what you’re after, head over to Rua Santa Catarina. Santa Catarina is Porto’s main shopping street and is in the highest part of town, beginning at Praca da Batalha.

You’ll find all the well-known international brands and plenty of smaller, local stores along the busy street, as well as cafes and coffee shops including the famous Majestic Cafe.

The Majestic Cafe, open since 1921, is still a popular spot for coffee or a light meal.

Nearby, you’ll find Porto’s main market —Mercado do Bolhao. This is the place to pick up picnic provisions. If you’re lucky enough to have lodging that includes a kitchen, you can find fresh produce, charcuterie, cheeses, meats, and fish—everything you need to make a marvelous meal.

Sao Bento’s Azulejos

If you arrive in Porto by train and happen to come into the Sao Bento railway station, you’ll be treated to a remarkable display of azulejos – the fabulous blue and white tiles so famous in Portugal. Many people come to the station just to see the tiles, as we did.

The beautiful azulejos at Sao Bento rail station tell the story of Portugal and Porto’s rich history.

Rua da Ribeira Negra– Buskers, Bars and Boat Rides

The Rua da Ribeira Negra area is very busy and touristy but it is fun to walk along the river and enjoy the buskers and people watching. We saw people dancing, making music, and performing magic tricks.

The Rua da Ribeira is a lively area on the riverfront with cafes, bars and buskers.

Buskers sang, danced, performed magic, and blew giant bubbles hoping to collect tips from tourists on the Rua da Ribeira.

Most boat rides on the Douro River depart from Rua da Ribeira. We took an hour- long cruise–it was a nice ride and especially fun on a hot day! We did not book ahead—boats run regularly and there are a number of companies offering the same rides at the same prices. We picked the one leaving the closest to the time we wanted to go.

A boat ride on the Douro was the perfect antidote to a hot summer day.

Pick the river cruise that suits your departure time and length of journey. Most companies offer the same itineraries and rates.

Souvenir vendors line the riverfront. If you’re looking for cork products, tea towels and “typical” Portuguese goods, you’ll find them here.

Souvenir shopping under the Eiffel Bridge in Porto.

Shopping for tea towels for their new life together?

Sleep

Here, as in most cities, there are lodging options for all tastes and budgets. We stayed at the Eurostars Porto Douro just a 10- minute walk along the river to the Rua da Ribeira Negra area. The hotel is comfortable, clean and well- priced. Our large room had a little kitchenette perfect for making a cup of tea or a snack and the view from our balcony of the Eiffel Bridge, the boats and people passing up and down the river was unbeatable.

Our spacious corner room had a fabulous river view from the balcony.

The kitchenette was a nice addition to our room.

Breakfast was included in our rate and offered everything we could want from hot dishes to yogurt, fruit and pastries, including the Portuguese specialty pasteis de nata. The clientele was international and Americans were definitely in the minority here. We met some terrific fellow travelers and the front desk staff couldn’t have been more helpful.

The hotel has a well-priced laundry service (shirts were about 7 Euro), important since we rarely check luggage. There is not a full-service restaurant at the Eurostars but there is a bar serving light fare. There’s also a rooftop terrace with spectacular views and bar service during the summer months.

We enjoyed wonderful views up and down the river from the rooftop terrace at the Eurostars.

We also enjoyed a too-brief stay at the historic Infante Sagres Hotel in the heart of Porto. After an absolutely awful experience with the Rosa Et Al Townhouse’s self-catering apartment on our first visit to Porto, we sought refuge at this magnificent grand dame of a hotel with its lux lobby and beautifully appointed rooms. The elevator has vintage alligator- covered seats so guests can sit and enjoy the ride!

Old world luxury is a hallmark at the Infante Sagres in Porto.

Local Portuguese marble was used floor to ceiling in our spacious bathroom.

A comfortable bed in a blissfully quiet room was just what we needed after a very long day.

We were lucky to get even one night here at the last minute on a sold-out weekend. Somehow the front desk staff managed to book the next four nights for us at the Eurostars. We will always be grateful for their kindness.

The sumptuous breakfast buffet at the Infante Sagres can be enjoyed in the dining room or peaceful courtyard.

Whether port is your preference or art floats your boat, lace up your walking shoes and discover the myriad charms Porto’s winding, cobbled streets have to offer.

Evora: The Alentejo’s Capital City

The Vasco da Gama bridge led us away from lively Lisbon to the rural beauty of the Alentejo.

An easy 90- minute drive southeast of Lisbon takes you to the expansive Alentejo region. Home to medieval villages, castles, palaces, pousadas, megaliths, wine producers, and vast agricultural lands, this beautiful area has something to please nearly all visitors. We made Evora, the capital of the region, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, our headquarters. This delightful small city is a great base from which to launch day trips to the many attractions in the area.

The Alentejo’s capital city is best explored on foot– wearing comfortable shoes, of course.

Remember to look up as you wander!

The historic city of Evora has interesting sites and several museums to explore. Just walking the winding streets is a fine way to spend a day, especially in the area around the Largo Conde de Vila Flor. After a pleasant stroll through the Praca do Giraldo, Evora’s bustling main square, we considered our options.

The busy Praca do Giraldo is at the heart of the city. Numerous shopping streets fan off from the Praca.

Cork is king in the Alentejo and is featured in souvenirs from sandals to handbags.

Portuguese pottery is also a popular souvenir.

Time was short so we had to make choices. We decided to save the Contemporary Art Museum for our next visit and headed over to the Museum of Evora, which was hosting a Chinese porcelain exhibition along with its permanent collections.

The Museum of Evora is housed in a former Episcopal palace built in the 17th century.

Beautiful Azulejos tiles line the stone staircase inside the museum.

Teapots, serving pieces, jewelry and other treasures from China are featured in the current exhibition at the museum.

Placards describe the fine Chinese porcelain plates on display in Portuguese and English.

The museum features paintings from the 15^th through 19^th centuries, drawings, engravings, 17^th and 18^th century furniture, and Roman sculpture from the 1^st and 2^nd centuries.

The museum is known for it’s 17th and 18th century painting and sculpture. This piece is by Antonio Teixeira Lopes.

Religious articles, like St. Blaise’s arm reliquary from the 17th century, are part of the permanent collection.

Visitors can see this striking bronze sculpture, statuary, mosaics and other artifacts from the Roman era.

Interesting archeological finds from the Neolithic Age and a collection of silver and gold religious pieces, and jewelry are also on display. There were few visitors on the day we were there.

Antiquities from numerous ancient civilizations are on view.

Artifacts from the Roman era line a courtyard hallway.

Just outside the museum is the Roman Temple from the 1^st century AD. Today, the ruins are undergoing restoration and are under wraps, but it is possible to see several of the Corinthian columns.

The Roman Temple which dates from the 1st century is mentioned in all the guide books, but until the restoration is complete, there isn’t much to see.

There is a small park behind the temple that offers nice views over the area beyond Evora and across the way you’ll find a lovely pousada, once a monastery that is now an upmarket hotel called Pousada dos Loios. Feel free to wander inside and take a step back into Portugal’s past. The restaurant here is open to the public.

Here’s a peek at the courtyard and restaurant at Pousada dos Loios.

This small park behind the Roman Temple provided a nice place to relax and enjoy the views over the city and surrounding countryside.

Many people line up at Evora’s Church of St. Francis to visit the Chapel of the Bones or Capela dos Ossis. The 16^th century chapel displays the bones and skulls of monks. We’ve seen the creepy Capuchin Crypt in Rome so felt no need to stop in after our visit to the church. The public gardens beside the church were much more appealing.

Inside the Church of St. Francis.

The Chapel of the Bones is a popular tourist attraction inside the Church of St. Francis.

If you have time, stop into Evora’s Cathedral or Se. It’s one of the largest medieval cathedrals in Southern Portugal and is said to be built on the site of a former mosque.

Here are the marvelously mismatched spires of Evora’s cathedral.

Close to the Church of St. Francis, you’ll find Evora’s morning market. The market is indoors and was smaller than some we’ve visited, but we also arrived fairly late in the morning after many of the vendors had closed up shop. Happily, there were several purveyors of tasty cheeses, cured meats, and fruits and vegetables still open.

Many vendors had already packed up and gone home by the time we arrived at the market but there was still plenty to choose from.

Everything you need for a nice picnic is right here–local pork products, sheep and goat’s milk cheeses and other tasty treats.

Evora has lodging options to fit many budgets and preferences. We chose to stay at two very different, but both delightful properties in and near the city. We began our stay at the lovely Albergaria do Calvario, just inside the walls of the city www.hotel@albergariadocalvario.com.

We enjoyed our stay at the small, well-located Albergaria do Calvario.

Located just inside the ancient Roman walls, it was easy to walk all around the city and access the freeway quickly for daytrips from our hotel.

The location made it easy to walk to Evora’s important sites as well as to dinner each evening. It was also convenient to reach the freeway for our day trips further afield. We’ll discuss dining and day trips in additional posts.

The comfortable bar area welcomes guests for drinks and light bites.

Ours was a large, comfortable room with a big balcony overlooking the hotel’s courtyard where many guests enjoyed breakfast, aperitifs, and conversation. Rooms vary substantially in size so be sure to explore your options when booking.

Our room was large and bright with a huge balcony overlooking the courtyard.

The marble used here is mined nearby. There is a Museum of Marble in Vila VIcosa we”ll visit next time.

There is no restaurant per se in the hotel, but they do provide a substantial breakfast buffet and have small meals, snacks, and drinks on offer in the bar. Anything ordered can be enjoyed in the courtyard, the bar area or one of the comfortable sitting areas.

This is just a small part of the bountiful buffet breakfast greeting guests each morning.

The courtyard provides a pleasant place to enjoy breakfast, drinks, or just relax.

Friendly staff are happy to help with restaurant bookings, excursion ideas or whatever you need to make your stay memorable.

The staff is extremely helpful and will even park and retrieve your car for you. Parking is available onsite at no additional charge. Laundry service is also available at a very reasonable price. The only thing we missed at this charming, small hotel was a pool, but we got that at our next hotel–Convento do Espinheiro Hotel & Spa.

Welcome to the Convento do Espinheiro.

We also spent several nights about 15 kilometers outside of Evora at the stunning Convento do Espinheiro. The converted convent was built in 1458 and when we stayed, was part of the Luxury Collection group managed by www.starwood.com. The property has traditional rooms in the original buildings as well as two modern wings.

We had a large room in the modern wing of the hotel, complete with a nice balcony.

We enjoyed our stay in the modern wing where we had a very large room with a balcony and views over the property towards to the inviting swimming pool. After nearly 10 days of non-stop touring it was the perfect place to take break.

The pool provided the perfect place for relaxation, lunch, drinks and a refreshing dip.

There is also an indoor pool and a nice spa on site where I enjoyed a relaxing massage. There are tours given daily of the expansive Convento which covers the property’s fascinating history.

Ancient olive trees dot the property which dates back to 1458.

These stone benches have been here since the property was a functioning convent.

There is no charge for the tour, which includes a visit to the beautiful church (still in use), monk’s cistern where a complimentary wine tasting is held each evening, the former dining area and kitchen, as well as the vaulted storage cellar which now houses the hotel’s terrific restaurant.

Convento do Espinheiro was one of the three wealthiest convents in Portugal. The church is still in use today.

The bells, one original, ring out to announce a wedding has taken place.

The wine cellar is housed in the monk’s former cistern, which was once filled with water.

A complimentary wine tasting take place each evening at 6 p.m. in the wine cellar.

We ate dinner there each night of our stay. The food is artfully prepared and beautifully presented by top-notch staff. Be sure to reserve for dinner or prepare to be disappointed—the dining room fills up. Should you choose to go offsite for your dinner and prefer not to drive, the helpful staff can arrange for a taxi into Evora.

Fresh local fish elegantly prepared is served with flair.

Luscious lamb chops with squash puree are featured on the menu.

Save room for dessert.

Where monks once stored their wine, olive oil and honey, hotel guests now enjoy a bountiful breakfast buffet. It is possible to enjoy your morning repast out on one of the terraces or in the courtyard area, as we did.

The former storage for olive oil, wine and honey, now serves as the hotel’s elegant dining room.

We also arranged to see some of the traditional rooms including the “royal suite” used by many honeymoon couples. It is truly spectacular in a beautiful old-world way and features a contemporary bathroom and private rooftop terrace.

The “royal suite” often used by honeymooners offers old world charm and opulence.

The suite’s bathroom features modern fixtures like this free standing tub.

A private rooftop terrace, one flight up from the suite provides glorious views of the area around the Convento.

If your travel plans include a trip to Portugal, don’t miss the beautiful Alentejo. We’re looking forward to our return to this fascinating area.

Il Grande Museo del’Opera del Duomo: All About Florence’s Famous Duomo

Florence’s Il Grande Museo del’Opera del Duomo has nothing at all to do with opera. Instead, it is all about the work, or opera, involved in building, preserving and maintaining one of the most recognizable Renaissance buildings in the world—Florence’s Duomo, also known as the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore.

A spectacular view of Brunelleschi’s dome from Caffe La Terrazza.

If you’ve ever wanted to see how Brunelleschi’s magnificent dome was constructed, learn what the other options were for the Duomo’s facade, or see the remarkable art treasures once housed in the cathedral, this is the place to come.

Welcome to the recently reopened and reimagined Museo del’Opera del Duomo.

Soaring galleries give visitors a new perspective on the superb sculpture on display at the museum.

Re-opened in October 2015 after years of restoration and reconstruction, the Museo dell’ Opera del Duomo has an exquisite collection of sculpture, paintings and other masterworks displayed on three floors in 6,000 square meters of exhibit space, all designed to showcase the art to its best visual and historical advantage.

A visitor gets an up close look at a statue in the museum.

Most of the works were at one time in, or outside the Duomo.

These sculptures once graced niches in Giotto’s bell tower.

Some of the treasures to be found include the original North Doors created by Lorenzo Ghiberti for the Baptistry of San Giovanni along with the Doors of Paradise by Lorenzo and Vittorio Ghiberti. Replicas now hang on the Baptistry.

Ghiberti’s stunning Doors of Paradise and North Door once graced the Baptistry of San Giovanni but can now be found inside the museum.

Detail of door.

In all, the museum boasts 750 works of art covering 720 years of history.

Arnolfo di Cambio’s stunning Christ with the Soul of Mary

This exquisite silver alter features scenes from the life of John the Baptist and was created by Lorenzo Ghiberti, Betto di Geri, Bernardo Cennini, Antonio di Salvi, Francesco and Leonardo di Giovanni, Antonio del Pollaiolo and Andrea del Verrocchio.

Michelangelo’s poignant pieta, sculpture by Donatello including his magnificent Mary Magdalene as Penitent, and works by Andrea Pisano, Antonio Pollaiolo, Arnolfo di Cambio and other highly regarded Medieval and Renaissance artists are on display.

Michelangelo sculpted this pieta for his own tomb. He later destroyed it. It was reconstructed and acquired by Cosimo de Medici In 1671 and placed in the Duomo in 1722. It was the next to last sculpture Michelangelo ever created.

Donatello’s Mary Magdalene as Penitent draws many visitors.

Sacred items and iconography are part of the museum’s extensive collection.

In the Cappella Musicale, or music gallery, you will hear enchanting sacred music, and find works by Luca della Robbia and others, as well as rare illuminated music books.

Beautiful music fills this gallery where rare illustrated books, sacred objects and art treasures are displayed.

Brunelleschi’s dome, still considered a marvel of engineering, remains one of Florence’s most iconic monuments.

Models of Brunelleschi’s dome show how it was built and why it remains an engineering marvel.

In addition to the art treasures, the museum contains original building materials, equipment and tools, dating back to the Duomo’s 15^th century construction.

Wooden pulleys, ropes and other original construction equipment used to build the Duomo can be seen at the museum.

Original 15th century tools and equipment used to build the Duomo are displayed near a continuously running film that explores the design and construction.

Also featured are drawings and models of the dome and Giotto’s bell tower, which was begun in 1334, after Giotto’s death. An outdoor terrace offers splendid views of the dome.

Brunelleschi’s wooden model of the dome fascinates visitors.

A detailed model of the bell tower designed by Giotto is on display near beautiful stained glass windows created by notables including Ghiberti, Donatello, Paolo Uccelli and Andrea del Castagno.

Visitors to the museum will learn about the history of this spectacular cathedral, designed by Arnolfo di Cambio and dedicated in 1412. The name Santa Maria del Fiore means St. Mary of the Flowers or Virgin of the Flowers. Once the largest church in all of Europe, today it is third in size, after St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome and London’s St. Paul’s Cathedral.

A film called Courage to Dare about Florence during the Renaissance and the creation and construction of the Duomo runs continuously in the museum.

A number of possibilities considered for the Duomo’s facade are on display, including this one.

Combination tickets can be purchased for the Duomo Museum, the Baptistery, the bell tower and the Crypt of Santa Reparta, named for the 7^th century church that once stood on the site of the Duomo. There is no charge to enter the Duomo, but paid tickets are required for visitors who wish to climb the more than 400 steps to the top of the bell tower.

The Baptistry of San Giovanni always draws crowds. Tickets are required to enter.

Appropriate clothing is essential for entry. In other words, no shorts, short skirts or skimpy, shoulder baring tops on women or men. Bulky bags and backpacks must be checked. Visit www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it for information on ticket prices, hours and tours.

Admission to the Duomo is free but take care to dress appropriately or you will be denied entry.

On our visit, we also had free access to a photographic exhibition called Opera di Viva by Michele Pecchioli, which paid tribute to the hundreds of men and women who have worked to preserve the artistic integrity and cultural heritage of the building and the art works within for more than 700 years.

Michele Pecchioli’s photographs pay tribute to the men and women who restore and preserve the art and cultural heritage of Florence’s iconic Duomo.

The photos feature the restorers, artists, employees and security guards who play a role in safeguarding these treasurers and ensuring public access to the works for years to come. Note: This was a temporary exhibition and may now longer be available for viewing.

A close up of a security guard charged with safeguarding the priceless treasures at the Duomo and its museum.

When the sun begins to set in Florence, head over to Piazzale Michelangelo for another perspective on the Duomo —and enjoy the gorgeous vista across the Arno over the city.

Some of the most spectacular views of Florence can be had from the Piazzale Michelangelo. Don’t miss a visit to the beautiful San Miniato al Monte across the street. It’s the oldest church in Florence, after the Baptistry.

Florence’s Duomo viewed from Piazzale Michelangelo.

The department store La Rinescente has a terrace restaurant with fine views of the Duomo, as well as drinks and light fare.

If you crave an aperitivo with your sunset and Duomo views, go to La Rinascente, the department store on Piazza Repubblica. Go directly up to La Terrazza on the top floor and you’ll find a little rooftop café/bar with great views of the city and the iconic dome. It gets crowded so get there early or be prepared to wait.

Sensational sunset view over the Piazza della Repubblica from Caffe La Terrazza.

Cin Cin!

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