Browsing Tag

natural wonders

The Amazing Earth Pyramids of Renon/Ritten

I have a fear of heights. Standing at the cable car station in Bolzano/Bozen and staring up at the impressive mountain I was about to ascend made me a little queasy, but I hadn’t come all this way to miss out on a hike in the Dolomites.  Specifically, a hike to see the earth pyramids of Renon/Ritten.

The cable car is the fastest and easiest way to reach Soprabolzano/Oberbozen.

We boarded the red gondola along with a group of young men laden with picnic provisions and camping gear and up we went. I choked back my apprehension and concentrated on the incredible views as we climbed higher and higher up the mountain toward SopraBolzano/Oberbozen.

The views are exceptional as you ascend the 1221 meters to the mountaintop.

It’s possible to take a bus or drive up the steep switchbacks to reach the town, but the cable car is much faster and easier.  It departs every four minutes and takes less than 15 minutes to reach the top– 1221 meters above Bolzano/Bozen.

Hikers and campers shared our gondola for the 15-minute ride.

The cable car deposits you right across the street from the historic narrow- gauge Renon/Ritten Railroad.  Be sure to buy a round trip combo ticket for the cable car and the railroad when you purchase your ticket at the Bolzano/Bozen station.

The historic railroad has been carrying passengers since 1907.

Trains run every 30 minutes during peak daytime hours. Climb aboard and enjoy the mountain views on the 20-minute ride from SopraBolzano/Oberbozen to Collalbo/Klobenstein.  We passed farms, cows, hikers and traditional Alpine A-frame homes as we whizzed by to the end of the line.

We zipped along through the beautiful Alpine countryside enjoying the views.

It’s a short walk from the station through a residential neighborhood to the center of Collalbo/ Klobenstein where lunch can be had a several restaurants.  Most seemed to offer the same traditional South Tyrol dishes but the two we had our eye on were closing shortly and wouldn’t seat us. 

The path from the train station into Collalbo/Klobenstein goes through a residential area.

It’s a pleasant stroll from the train station and fun to see all the carefully tended gardens along the way.

One of the gardens we passed was creatively decorated with gnomes and a Disney princess.

It was disappointing to be turned away from several restaurants because we arrived too close to the kitchen closing, but we kept searching!

Sleek Zentral was a welcome sight for these hungry travelers.

We were directed to Zentral by a harried hostess and off we went in search of sustenance.   We were not disappointed and were soon tucking into a perfectly prepared weiner schnitzel and a tasty mushroom and polenta dish.  We had a crisp local white wine with the meal and finished up with some house made gelato. 

Crisp, perfectly prepared weiner schnitzel was just right for lunch.

Menus in the Sud Tirol usually feature Austrian and Italian influenced dishes and are always seasonal.

A medley of local mushrooms atop polenta was outstanding.

Save room for dessert! Cakes and gelato are always on offer.

There’s always room for gelato.

There is a mix of Austrian and Italian influences in this autonomous area of Italy, which was a part of Austria until the end of World War I. German is the predominant and preferred language in the Sud Tirol, though signage and menus are generally printed in German, Italian and sometimes English. You’ll find many people speak English, particularly in hotels, shops and restaurants here.

Signs indicate directions and show how long it will take to reach your destination.

After a satisfying lunch we headed off towards our destination—Longomoso/Lengmoos and the earth pyramids of Renon/Ritten.  It’s an easy 30-minute hike from town to see these natural wonders, said to be Europe’s highest and most perfectly shaped examples of the boulder- topped pillars.

It’s an easy 30- minute hike to the earth pyramids.

Paths are well-marked and part of the way to the earth pyramids is paved.

Signs in German and Italian point the way.

The views just get better and better as you continue your hike!

The earth pyramids at Renon/Ritten are 25,000 years old.

Called erdpyramiden in German or piramidi di terra in Italian, the conical pillars were formed 25,000 years ago from the moraine clay soil left behind when the last of the Ice Age glaciers covering the Valle d’Isarco melted away. It takes thousands of years for earth pyramids to form and the process is a dynamic one. 

These earth pyramids are said to be the highest and most perfectly shaped in Europe.

In dry weather, the soil is rock hard, but rain softens the earth and carries away the soil.  The rocks left behind in the mud protect the clay soil beneath them, which rises from the earth to form the pyramids—capped by the boulders that allowed them to develop.  As older earth pyramids collapse, new ones form. They really are spectacular to see! 

New pillars are formed as the older ones collapse.

These are some of the most impressive earth pyramids in the world and some of the oldest!

The boulders capping the pyramids protect them and allow them to develop.

At the end of the trail from Collalbo/Klobenstein, there is a large viewing platform with panoramic vistas over the valley to the earth pyramids in the nearby gorge, with maps and helpful information in German, Italian and English. We were lucky to have the platform to ourselves much of the time, though during busy summer months the popular site draws crowds.

We made it to the top!

Keep going– enjoy the views and pose for a silly picture at the top.

A handy map shows points of interest.

Many natural sites in this area have maps that include highlights of the area and give a sense of place.

Informational signs are in German, Italian and English at this popular site.

After enjoying the sensational view of the earth pyramids for quite some time, we began the hike back.  We came upon the Café Erdpyramiden along the way.

We were happy to find the cafe open as there are no services or facilities near the viewing platform.

The cafe is a handy stop since there are no facilities at the viewing platform or along the trail to reach it.

Stop in for coffee, cold drinks, snacks and local wine.

It’s a great place to enjoy the view, have a drink and a snack and use the facilities!

Bring your drink out on the back terrace and enjoy a last look at the earth pyramids.

A pleasant stroll back past historic buildings, churches, homes, a pond and grazing cows took us back to town and the train station.

It’s a beautiful walk through the countryside to and from the earth pyramids.

Enjoy the walk back– it’s an easy trek.

It’s hard to get lost with signage everywhere!

Our timing was perfect and five minutes later we were chugging along toward home.

Trains run every 30 minutes during peak hours and we timed our return perfectly.

We wandered around SopraBolzano/Oberbozen, admiring the views and checking out lodging for a future trip before heading back down to Bolzano/Bozen on the cable car. 

The comfortable lobby at Gloriette Guesthouse. Love the baby buggy bar.

We popped in the the Gloriette Guesthouse to check it out for a return visit to the area.

We had a nice wander around the town of Soprabolzano/Oberbozen before heading to the cable car.
Making our descent into the center of Bolzano/Bozen after a wonderful day in the Dolomites.

We will definitely return to this spectacular area and its natural wonders and suggest you add it to your list, too. In the meantime you can enjoy the virtual view here.

Scala dei Turchi- Sicily’s Spectacular Turkish Steps

You’ll see them long before you reach them– bright white, gleaming brilliantly in the Sicilian sun as they rise from the blue Mediterranean–the Scala dei Turchi or Turkish Steps. If you’re in the area of Agrigento, home to Valle dei Templi– some of Sicily’s best known and most visited Greek ruins, head a few miles west towards Realmonte and Porte Empedocle and explore one of Southern Sicily’s most breathtaking natural wonders.

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When we visited, people were able to climb the Scala dei Turchi near Porte Empedocle, Sicily.

Follow the brown informational road signs and you’ll wind up at a car park just across from the beach. It can be tricky to find so pay close attention. Walk past the beach club and restaurant and hike along the beach. The trail is fairly rocky, marshy and wet, of course. There are nicer swimming beaches in the area, but you won’t find anything like the Turkish Steps anywhere else.

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The gleaming white steps of the Scala dei Turchi beckon from the beach.

As you walk through grassy wetlands, and along the beach, shimmering in the distance you’ll see the spectacular step formation known as Scala dei Turchi rising from the sea.

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Consider aquasocks or similar footwear as the beach is quite rocky.

The Turkish Steps, as they are popularly referred to,  are truly a sight to behold. Formed by sedimentary rock, this gleaming white staircase leads up to spectacular cliffs that rise up from the blue Mediterranean. The site got its name from the stair-like shape of the rock formation and also because it was a favorite landing place for pirates and the invading Moors.

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Visitors used to climb the Turkish Steps but this is no longer permitted.

The rock is fairly soft and many visitors have carved their names, initials and paeans to love in the steps. We do not encourage this.

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Unfortunately, visitors have carved messages in the soft rock in many languages. Please don’t.

We visited the Scala dei Turchi on a beautiful warm October afternoon and while we were certainly not alone, the site was not terribly crowded. That is not the case during the summertime, we’ve been told. We were also warned that parking is at a premium in the summer months.

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Enjoy the views from the overlook above the Scala dei Turchi. It is not possible to climb them any more.

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The crashing waves of Mediterranean Sea far below– breathtaking.

You may also choose to park above the steps and walk down to the top, where there is an overlook, instead of hiking along the beach. This is a shorter and less challenging way to go but you’ll miss the great views that the beach walk affords.

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Visitors used to relax and enjoy the view from the top of the Turkish Steps.

The naturally created troughs at the top of Scala dei Turchi drew many looking for a place to relax, sunbathe and enjoy the magnificent Mediterranean Sea– this is no longer permitted. Enjoy views of  the steps and the Sicilian sunset from the beach or overlook above before heading back to your hotel!

UPDATE–  The Turkish Steps are now protected and it is not permitted to climb them. I have revised the post to reflect that, though when I wrote this piece and took the photos, it was allowed.  Enjoy this natural wonder from the beach below or the scenic overlook above, but please stay off the steps.

Maui– A Blowhole, Beach Hike and Dragon’s Teeth

After a surprising number of rainy days on our springtime get-away to Maui, we woke to a brilliant blue Hawaiian day. From the balcony of our rental condo, we saw rainbows and cavorting whales–the perfect day to explore this little corner of paradise!

What better way to start the day than with rainbows and whales?

The Nakalele blowhole looked spectacular in photos, so we packed a picnic, swimsuits and snorkel gear, and off we went.  We followed Highway 30 past Kapalua, home to the Ritz Carlton, and continued along the winding two-lane road beyond where it joins Highway 340—the Kahekili Highway. The road narrows along the rugged coastline and the views become even more breathtaking as you drive.  

The curvy road narrows and dips so use your horn!

Near mile marker 38, you’ll begin to see cars parked on the side of the road and people trekking across a scrubby, rocky area towards a precipitous cliff and the ocean below.  That’s your signal to pull off the road and join them. 

Park on the shoulder. There’s no official parking area here.
There are several hiking trails that lead down to the blowhole. One passes a small light beacon.

If mobility allows, join the march down toward the sea. We parked close to mile marker 38.5 and carefully made our way down through the rough and rocky landscape to get nearer, but not too close, to the blowhole.

The trail down is steep and rocky and the lava rock can be slippery.
We visited the blowhole at high tide–spectacular!

Blowholes, sometimes known as marine geysers, are formed when sea caves develop landward and upward towards the surface. When waves sweep in, the hydraulic pressure forces the water up and out with enormous force creating a powerful plume. The higher the tide and swells, the more spectacular the eruptions.

These two wisely chose to enjoy nature’s show from a safe distance away. The area near the blowhole can be treacherous.

You can see the spray from the blowhole and hear the huge waves slam onto shore from quite a distance, especially during high tide.  You can also feel the vibrations underfoot as you get closer.

This is not a hike for those with impaired mobility or while wearing flip flops.  There are no barriers, safety features, paved pathways or services of any kind and the trail down can be challenging, but so worth it.

Heed the sign!

The Nakalele blowhole is a powerful, natural phenomenon and should be enjoyed with respect and caution from a safe distance. As a crude hand- painted sign warns, “Stay clear of blowhole. You can be sucked in and killed. It’s not a waterpark.” This is the only sign you’ll see here but please take it seriously and don’t get too close!  People have been sucked into this blowhole and drowned and they have also been swept off the slippery lava rocks by the enormous waves common here and drowned. 

You can see the huge plume and hear the giant waves crashing from a distance away, especially at high tide.

We didn’t go all the way down to the blowhole–no need to for great views. We sat on the rocks above for a long time, mesmerized by the pounding waves and the tremendous geyser as the blowhole shot plumes of sea water high into the air and people nearby tried to capture that perfect Instagrammable moment.

We were reluctant to leave Nakalele but the beach beckoned. Highway 340 continues on, but recent flash floods and road closures in the area led us to head back down the winding two-lane highway towards Kapalua until we spotted a sign for D.T. Fleming Beach Park. 

At mile marker 31.1 we drove down Lower Honoapiilani Road and found ourselves in a big, paved parking lot with plenty of spaces available.  We were lucky. This is a very popular and crowded beach on weekends and in the summertime–spots fill up early.

Recent storms made for rough surf — thus the red flag warning and a very busy lifeguard.

D.T. Fleming Beach Park has bathrooms, showers, changing areas, BBQs, and picnic tables.  The beach even has a lifeguard which is not usual in our experience at Maui public beaches.  Ritz Carlton guests use this beach and the hotel has a snack bar near the path between the hotel and the beach parking lot. If you want an ice cream or snack, you’re in luck!

Pineapples really did turn out to be gold for West Maui.

The beach is named in honor of David Thomas Fleming, a Scotsman, who emigrated to Maui with his family at age 9. D.T. Fleming is credited with introducing commercial pineapple cultivation to Western Maui in 1912, saving the Honolau Ranch, the local economy, and helping to create prosperity in the area that continues today. 

We changed into our swimsuits, hauled our picnic and snorkel gear down to the sandy beach and settled in. The views were gorgeous, the water was warm, but all the storms we’d had recently made for a rough surf.  The lifeguard was kept very busy calling people back onto shore. We took a dip and enjoyed the sunshine that had been so fleeting the last few days.

After lunch, we set out for the Kapalua Coastal Trail and Makaluapuna Point. The trail begins with a paved path that winds along the Ritz Carlton’s golf course.

This monument marks an ancient Hawaiian burial site beyond the hedge.

The Kapalua Coastal Trail gets rugged and rocky pretty quickly once you leave the golf course path but the scenery and rock formations are spectacular the closer you get to Makaluapuna Point.

The winds were high, the powerful waves were pounding the lava rock, and the trail became rougher as we reached Makaluapuna Point and spotted Dragon’s Teeth labyrinth. What a gorgeous spot for quiet contemplation!

There is a small sign asking people to be respectful and not leave anything in the center.  According to a Wall Street Journal article, stacking stones on trails, paths and in labyrinth centers is a trend.  Please don’t.

The “Dragon’s Teeth” were formed when hot lava hit the ocean and the wind and waves shaped the rock into what resembles jagged teeth. Can you see them?

Sometimes weather and ocean conditions make this stunning place off limits, but we visited on a beautiful day and were able to fully experience the peacefulness of this rugged spit of land, jutting into the sea. Paradise indeed!

Note: Visit Travel.Hawaii.Gov for updated Hawaiian travel information. Be sure to book your rental car ASAP and restaurant reservations before you go!