Oregon

Springtime on Oregon’s Spectacular Central Coast

The first thing I do when I arrive at Gleneden Beach, a hamlet on Oregon’s Central Coast, is take a deep breath. The clean, crisp air is an intoxicating combination of briny ocean and the refreshing scent of the pines that line the craggy shoreline. In early Spring there are no crowds.

There also aren’t any luxury hotels or fancy restaurants, but the natural beauty of the place draws us back with its tranquility, miles of pristine beaches, wooded hiking trails, a lighthouse or two, and small towns that are somewhere between charming and touristy. So what is there to do? Let’s start with the whales!

Gray whales put on an impressive show off Oregon’s Central Coast in early Spring.

Whale Watching Season

The gray whales begin their 10,000-mile migration between Baja California and the Bering Sea in the late winter months and March is prime viewing season on Oregon’s Central Coast. Weighing in at about 35 tons and averaging around 45 feet in length, thousands of gray whales–20,000 of them according to some sources– pass by Oregon’s coastal communities in early spring through June.

Some estimates have 20,000 gray whales passing Oregon’s coastal communities during their annual migration.

It’s exhilarating to see these amazing animals breach and spyhop so close to shore. We learned that spyhopping is when whales raise their heads vertically out of the water to get a better sense of their surroundings. They often do this when tour boats are nearby—maybe they like to see us as much as we enjoy seeing them.

Boiler Bay is a prime spot for whale watching.

Depoe Bay, the self-proclaimed whale watching capital of Oregon, and nearby Boiler Bay are premium locations for catching the show these leviathans put on at this time of year.

Bring your binoculars and see how many species of whale, dolphins and porpoises you can spot.

Besides gray whales, marine life aficionados with a sharp eye or a good pair of binoculars may spot orcas, sperm whales, dolphins, porpoises, and even blue whales cavorting in the waves.

The Depoe Bay Whale Watching Center is closed now but watch for the reopening.

The Depoe Bay Whale Watching Center was closed for construction in March while we were there, but we visited last year and saw plenty of whales and sea life from both the outdoor and indoor viewing platforms. It was great to come in out of the rain and still watch the whales go by. Helpful staff told us that during the busy summer months, around 100 of these majestic creatures live in the waters right off Depoe Bay.

The Whale Watching Center has indoor and outdoor viewing platforms and a terrific location for spotting these leviathans of the deep.

Rangers and volunteers are on hand to answer questions about marine life, seabirds and the region’s many scenic areas.

Volunteers can usually be found at 24 coastal sites marked by Whale Watching Spoken Here signs, charting the whales’ migration and noting the numbers of sea mammals and birds spotted during their watch. Docents will not be at their stations and viewing equipment will be unavailable this year due to the public health crisis. Check out whale watching videos at oregonstateparks.org.

Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area and Lighthouse

I think there’s something romantic about lighthouses and this one is particularly captivating. Perched 162 feet above the churning sea, the Yaquina Head lighthouse is visible from miles away. Standing a majestic 93 feet tall, Oregon’s tallest lighthouse has been guiding mariners to safety since August 20, 1863.

The rugged beauty of the Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area draws 400,00 visitors annually.

Constructed of 370,000 bricks imported from San Francisco, the second oldest lighthouse on the Oregon coast shines its warning beacon from its original 400 lb. Fresnel lens. The lens, then a technical marvel, was built in Paris and transported through the Panama Canal to what was then called Cape Foulweather—for good reasons.

Many ships foundered on the rocky shoals off Yaquina Head before the lighthouse was operational. Look for the memorial to those lost at sea at the base of the lighthouse.

The path between the lighthouse and Interpretive Center boasts beautiful vistas and educational information.

Stop by the Interpretive Center before hiking down the path to the lighthouse and tidal pools. There is a wealth of information and knowledgeable rangers available to help you make the most of your visit.

Come to the Interpretive Center for information that will help you make the most of your visit. Admission to the center is free. There is a fee to enter the park.

Films, exhibits, displays and helpful staff provide a wealth of information about the lighthouse and the area’s history.

After viewing the short films, photographs, diaries and displays that tell the story of the Yaquina Head lighthouse and the people who kept it running for more than 100 years, it’s not hard to imagine light keepers going up and down the lighthouse’s 114 steps several times a day carrying 20 lb. buckets of tallow in each hand to keep the lamp lit. Instructions circa 1902 warn that the light must be kept burning at all times and at all costs. Inspectors could arrive unannounced, at any time day or night; to be sure the mandate was kept. Life could be hard and lonely. It wasn’t until 1966 that Yaquina Head’s light was automated and light keepers were no longer needed.

Light keepers climbed these 114 steps several times daily. During summer months ranger-led tours allow visitors to follow in their footsteps.

A replica of the 400 lb. Fresnel lens demonstrates how the light was constructed and operates.

There are also films and exhibits about the vibrant marine life and seabirds visitors may encounter. In addition to peregrine falcons, pelagic and double-tufted cormorants, tufted puffins, and storm petrels, Yaquina Head hosts one of the Pacific Northwest’s largest colonies of the common murre, a seabird that tends to gather in large groups and float noisily around. We heard them long before we saw them but what a sight it was!

Common murres are among the many seabirds that call Yaquina Head home. A large colony of the noisy birds floats just right of the rocks in this photo.

Today, more than 400,000 visitors come annually to see the lighthouse and grounds, explore Cobble Beach and the tide pools, watch for whales and dolphins, enjoy the seabirds and visit the interpretive Center. Visitors are free to explore the 100-acre natural area on their own and during summer months, when ranger-guided tours are available, it’s possible to go inside the lighthouse.

Take a hike up the hill behind the former vegetable gardens for fantastic views of the lighthouse and the breathtaking coastline or climb down the wooden stairway to the beach to see anemones and other sea life up close. Or do both, as we did.

Visitors can explore Yaquina Head’s 100-acres at their own pace.

Those with impaired mobility may want to drive to the lighthouse. All areas of the Interpretive Center are accessible.

Pacific Maritime & Heritage Center and Burrows House

Pleasure craft and fishing boats crowd Newport’s busy harbor.

Curiosity and shipwrecks drew us to the Pacific Maritime & Heritage Center, a Lincoln County Historical Society Museum. Walking past Bay Boulevard’s touristy shops across from Newport’s bustling harbor, we saw signs for the museum and were intrigued.

Newport is home to the largest commercial fleet in Oregon.

Chippendale dancers, off-track betting enthusiasts and night clubbers frequented this once stately home before a careful eight-year renovation transformed the Smuggler’s Inn into the Pacific Maritime & Heritage Center. Open since 2013, the museum has a wealth of information on the area’s history, the role of the fishing industry in the region’s growth and the many shipwrecks that have been documented along the rugged Oregon coastline since 1852. Maps, photographs, exhibits and helpful docents bring the past to life here.

Exhibits explore the fishing industry’s impact on the region’s growth and development.

Visitors interested in shipwrecks, sea lore and maritime history will find the museum fascinating.

Many of items in the museum’s collections were donated by the local community– from maritime gear to artifacts recovered from shipwrecks. Newport’s sister city, Mombetsu, sent the colorful Japanese fishing flags that fly above the galleries. They are meant to bring luck to the local fishing fleet and are a gesture of good will between the cities. Be sure to step out onto the roof terrace and enjoy the expansive views before you leave!

Burrows House, also a Lincoln County Historical Society Museum, is just a five- minute drive away. The Victorian house began life as a private home, and was used as a boarding house and finally a funeral parlor before becoming part of the museum. Touring the modest dwelling, which was built in 1895, visitors get a good sense of what life was like for Newport residents in the 19^th and early 20^th century. Don’t miss the eight-foot long toothpick model of the Yaquina Bay Bridge.

Clothing, household goods and memorabilia paint a vivid picture of life here in the late 1800s.

This eight-foot replica of the Newport Bridge is constructed entirely from wooden toothpicks.

Hatfield Marine Science Center

Looking for family fun and the chance to spend quality time with an octopus? Oregon State University’s Hatfield Marine Center is just across the bridge from Newport’s busy commercial harbor and definitely worth a visit, particularly if you have young ones in tow. We stopped by on a rainy day and it was easy to see why more than 150,000 people a year are drawn to the dynamic marine education center.

Hatfield’s aquatic exhibits bring out a sense
of wonder in visitors of all ages.

Touch tanks and interactive exhibits entertain and educate visitors.

The Visitors Center’s aquatic animal exhibits, hands-on experiences, and interactive displays make learning fun. The Center’s resident octopus is a big draw. Visitors can watch him “hunt” for his food, play with his toys and explore his environment. Hatfield has an Octocam, so even after returning home, fans can keep tabs on the popular cephalopod.

Go Exploring

Oregon’s Central Coast has so many beaches, trails, natural wonders and small towns to discover that you can be as busy as you like.

Take a drive to Devil’s Punchbowl and watch the swirling sea churning up inside the hollow rock formation. Stop in to Cliffside Coffee & Sweets and get an ice cream cone or chocolates while you’re there.

Pristine beaches, trails and parks along Oregon’s Central Coast await. Pack a picnic and go explore!

Join the agate hunters on Gleneden Beach at low tide.

Tsunami safety instructions are posted on this chunk of harbor that washed up in Newport after crossing the Pacific from Japan. Now it’s part of the bayfront along with shops, tourist attractions and restaurants you can enjoy.

Pack a picnic and head over to Fogerty Creek. Check out the tide pools. Hunt for agates during low tide on Gleneden Beach. Head to Lincoln City and search for the “finders keepers” glass floats or make your own at Lincoln City Glass Center.

Stroll through historic Nye Beach for a little retail therapy and enjoy the sandy beach there. Or just sit and watch for whales.

It’s easy to while away a sunny Spring afternoon just sitting and watching for whales.

Practicalities

Unless you live within driving distance, fly into Portland (PDX), rent a car and drive the 2-1/2 hours to the coast. It’s a scenic drive once you’re past the suburban areas.

There are a few hotels and a lot of rentals and timeshares along Oregon’s Central Coast. We rent a fully- equipped condo and need provisions to make breakfast and picnic lunches when weather allows. Chester’s, a mid-sized grocery between Gleneden Beach and Depoe Bay, has a good selection and all the necessities, plus a video rental on-site. Newport and Lincoln City—the two largest towns in this area– have the chain stores and more shopping options.

As much as I love to cook, I also like a good dinner (or lunch) out. Our favorite restaurants are:

Tidal Raves Seafood Grill –We spotted nine whales during one dinner at this Depoe Bay mainstay! Portions are generous and full meals include soup or salad so you can probably skip the appetizer.

You can’t beat the sunset view at Tidal Raves in Depoe Bay.

Dinner specials, like this sturgeon don’t disappoint.

Fish dishes are fresh and delicious– try the halibut or the BBQ shrimp for something a little different. Nightly specials have never disappointed and the steaks are good, too. This place is extremely popular with locals and visitors. Make a reservation.

Side Door Café– There are no ocean views, but there is plenty of ambiance at this local Gleneden Beach favorite. The food is hands down delicious and that’s what keeps people coming back for more.

We’ll take the salmon or halibut any way the kitchen is preparing them.

Save room for the house made desserts. They’re divine!

Try the Dungeness crab cakes, or the salmon or halibut – however the kitchen is preparing them. The hazelnut crusted pork and rack of lamb are both outstanding. Save room for the homemade desserts! Reservations are essential.

Local Ocean– It’s all about the fresh fish here–right off the boats from Newport’s busy commercial harbor just across the street.

Fresh fish, often from the fishing boats across the street, make this our Newport favorite.

The fish and chips are huge, crispy and delicious.

The retail market at Local Ocean has great options for fresh, local fish.

We like the crab cakes, fish and chips, fish tacos, albacore tuna wrap and whatever the daily special is. The burgers are good, too. There are terrific harbor views from the upstairs dining area and bar. Local Ocean has a retail seafood market on the ground floor so you can bring home today’s catch, too.

Red Roof Inn— Follow your nose to this Gleneden favorite. The mouthwatering aroma of fresh baked goods and strong coffee kept us coming back day after day.

Everything here is baked from scratch early in the morning.

Robert just took this Irish soda bread out of the oven.

The friendly staff will make you feel like a local and their sandwiches are amazing. Open for breakfast and lunch only.

Kyllos- Big and busy, this Lincoln City restaurant is right on the water and serves continually from lunch on.

We like Happy Hour at Kyllos. The Dungeness crab is a tasty treat.

If you’re lucky enough to get a window seat, the views are spectacular. Happy hour, or lunch in the bar, is the budget- friendly way to go. Try the kale salad and fish tacos.

This is just a sampling of the fun and food that await on Oregon’s beautiful Central Coast. Add it to your list of Springtime get-aways! Or summer get-aways, fall get-aways…

Wine Tasting In Oregon’s Willamette Valley

I’m no wine expert but I enjoy drinking it and learning about it. In my thirst for knowledge (couldn’t resist) I’ve been lucky enough to visit wineries and talk to wine makers in many of the world’s most important wine growing regions from the slopes of Sicily’s Mt. Etna to the chalky soil to Champagne and here in California, of course. After visiting Portland regularly for years; we were way overdue for a trip to explore Oregon’s Willamette Valley.

*It’s just about an hour drive from downtown to Portland to the heart of the Willamette Valley.*

It’s little more than an hour drive from downtown Portland to the heart of the Willamette Valley, Oregon’s largest AVA and home to nearly 600 wineries. As much as I adore a good Pinot Noir, Oregon winemakers are producing other award-winning varietals including Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Riesling and lately, Gamay, as well as those prize- winning Pinots.

*There are nearly 600 wineries in the Willamette Valley, Oregon’s largest AVA.*

I was as impressed with the wines we tasted as I was with the casual, “walk-ins welcome” vibe at many of the wineries we visited on several recent trips to Oregon’s wine country. Tasting room staff were passionate about the wines they were pouring and eager to share their knowledge everywhere we went.

*Knowledgeable staff made wine tasting fun and educational at Saffron Fields Vineyards, shown here, and at the other wineries we visited.*

My last visit was just days before the Covid-19 shelter order closed restaurants, bars, hotels, shops, and all those winery tasting rooms. Now that things are slowly reopening, I circled back with some of the wineries we visited to find out what people can expect post -pandemic.

*Reservations, masks, social distancing, and contactless payment are some of the differences visitors to this gorgeous wine growing region will notice, but it can still be a wonderful experience.*

Things will be different for the foreseeable future for wineries large and small, but all were in agreement with a number of “new normal” requirements: Drop- in visits are largely a thing of the past. Most wineries now require reservations be booked online for timed tastings that will last between 60 and 90 minutes. Masks are mandatory, unless you are seated, and staff will be masked throughout the tasting. Social distancing will be enforced. Most wineries have moved the tasting experience outdoors. Tastings will be staggered to allow thorough cleaning and sanitizing between groups. Menus will be laminated for easy disinfection or single use paper menus will be provided. Hand sanitizer will be readily available. Outside food is no longer allowed at most wineries. Most wineries are using contactless chip readers for purchases i.e. no cash. Everybody is working hard to keep the wine tasting experience safe and fun.

Here’s what I learned from individual wineries I contacted:

Argyle Winery

Let’s start with bubbles. Argyle is Oregon’s premier producer of sparkling wines and they make excellent still wines as well. The award-winning winery has a big, beautiful tasting facility with plenty of outdoor space. Argyle is one of the first wineries you’ll encounter heading west on the 99 from Portland. Plan to stop.

*Argyle’s Tasting House is a large comfortable space but for now, wine tastings will be held outdoors. Reservations are required, as they are almost everywhere now.*

The Tasting House has re-opened and will welcome groups of eight or fewer by reservation only. Hours are the same as pre-pandemic—Monday-Thursday 11 am-5pm; Friday-Sunday 10 am-5 pm, but less seating is available due to social distancing regulations.

To streamline the wine tasting experience, Argyle is offering two flights—a selection of the varietals they produce, such as Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Riesling, and one that is all sparkling (my favorite). They also offer by-the-glass and half-glass pours. Try the brut rose! Tasting flights are $20-$30 per person.

*A wine club member created this low- touch wine flight delivery system using barrel staves. Photo courtesy Argyle Winery.*

“We have reduced the flight options in an effort to minimize glassware used, and we have a cool delivery system for the flights that involves a barrel stave that holds the glasses and lets us deliver flights to the table without having to touch them. One of our club members made them. Innovation is everywhere during times like these,” says Argyle’s Cathy Martin.

*There’s plenty of room to relax outdoors and enjoy Argyle’s award-winning wines.*

“We have had lots of reservations, and everyone seems to be very understanding of the situation. We really wanted to get the process down to make sure visitors felt comfortable and welcome,” adds Cathy.

Argyle also offers curbside pick-up for online wine orders.

Saffron Fields Vineyards

We weren’t familiar with Saffron Fields Vineyards, but it was highly recommended by the concierge at the Atticus Hotel in McMinnville, so we took a drive to Yamhill. We spent a leisurely afternoon at Saffron Fields, enjoying their stunning Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays in one of the loveliest tasting rooms we’d visited. The tasting room is surrounded by Japanese gardens, designed by Hoichi Kurisu, the former director of the acclaimed Japanese Gardens in Portland. Like everywhere else in the valley, the pandemic has caused operational changes at this former dairy farm.

*Saffron Field’s tasting room is surrounded by serene Japanese gardens.*

Saffron Fields is by appointment only now, wine club members included. Andrea Feero says, “We are pleased to have reopened to the public and are happy to see guests fill our patio once again. Our tasting room hosts are still providing the same warm welcome and hospitality as before.”

“If guests arrive early, they are asked to wait in their vehicle until they are notified that their table is ready. Most tastings will occur outside, but we do have space inside the tasting room if needed or requested. All tastings are seated flights. Additionally, we offer bottle purchases for onsite consumption on the lawn, this is what we are calling our Alfresco Experience on the Lawn. This experience is ideal for 5-10 people,” says Andrea.

*Tastings will take place outside at Saffron Fields and reservations are required.*

Children and dogs were welcome at Saffron Fields pre-Covid-19, but Andrea adds, “We love both, but I am not sure how we will move forward with this and are taking it as a case by case approach. Regrettably, both open the door to encroachment of the six-foot rule that we are trying to follow.”

A standard tasting is $25, and guests should allow 60-90 minutes. For reservations please contact info@sf.fair.dev or call 503.662.5323.

Hazelfern Cellars

We have friends who are friends with the owners at Hazelfern Cellars, so naturally we planned a visit. We already knew how terrific their Pinot Noir was and were looking forward to trying the current release as well as their Chardonnay. With our reservation confirmed, off to Newberg we went!

*We enjoyed our private wine tasting in Hazelfern’s beautiful barn.*

Hazelfern has one of the nicest barns I’ve ever seen and that’s where proprietor Laura Laing met us for our private tasting experience. They also have an outdoor tasting area, which uses local hazelnut shells as a ground cover– sustainable, practical and attractive! As expected, we thoroughly enjoyed the wines Laura poured. I checked back with her to see what changes the pandemic has created.

“We’ve always been by reservation, so we have been able to adapt pretty seamlessly. We have been utilizing a reservation system for a number of years now and will continue to do so. This helps us plan and limit the number of people in each group, currently limited to 10 or fewer. We have designated reservation times of 11 am, 1 pm and 3 pm and allow for multiple reservations at a time because luckily, our space is so large. We are not currently accepting walk-ins. Tastings are $25 per person and guests can expect about five wines during the tasting,” Laura says.

“Sadly, we are not facilitating tours or activities that have folks moving about the winery. Hopefully that will be back soon though! We’ve been utilizing both indoor and outdoor seating when weather permits. The tasting itself is about 60 minutes and we ask guests to depart by 90 minutes to allow for deep cleaning between groups.”

*Hazelfern has plenty of space for outdoor tastings. The ground cover is local hazelnut shells–sustainable and attractive.*

“Overall everyone has been so amazing, respectful, kind and so understanding of the new guidelines as we work to keep everyone safe and stocked up on wine, “ Laura adds.

For online reservations visit hazelfern.com or email hospitality@hazelfern.com.

Remy Wines

Oregon is rightly famous for their Pinot Noirs but when you’re ready for a break, head to Remy Winery. Known for their Italian varietals, Remy’s tasting room is in a friendly yellow farmhouse in the Dundee Hills.

Pre-pandemic, we dropped in and had a terrific tasting experience with Hannah, their Hospitality Director. Like many wineries in the valley, Remy is now open for by appointment only, Friday through Monday for groups of six or fewer.

“We were always more limited by number due to our small tasting room and bathroom facility. Tasting appointments are staggered so that no more than one party will arrive at one time, with an hour and a half allotted to each tasting. No more than 22 people would be in the process of tasting at one time,” says Remy’s Erin Butler.

*Social distance- appropriate barrels are set up around the property to serve as tables for outside wine tasting. Photo courtesy Remy Wines.*

All tastings will be conducted outside. Wine barrels are set up throughout the yard, more than 20 feet apart. There are also tasting spots on the covered front porch and at the picnic table. The tasting fee is $20 per person. Barbera, Dolcetto, Lagrein, Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris may be among the wines you’ll be poured.

“We have these cute tasting trays that Hannah’s husband built for us. Four carafes fit in line and are filled according to the number of tasters in the party. Guests pour the wine (1 oz per person) into their own glasses, limiting the number of contacts. The flights (four wines) change each week, with a selection of white, rosé and reds,” Erin adds.

Hospitality Director Hannah Graham (left), and owner Remy Drabkin, show off their new wine flight delivery system, built by Hannah’s husband. Guest will pour from carafes themselves, limiting contact with staff. Photo courtesy Remy Wines.

Remy usually hosts events during the summer months. This year will be different, but the winery is not giving up.

“We are getting creative and really sorting through those things now. The property is large, so we are still moving ahead with two of our al fresco dining experiences. The first is our partnership with Pittsburgh’s Black Radish Kitchen. We had about 10 guests coming from Pittsburgh, and they will now be having their own experience in Pittsburgh with BRK. Locals will still come to the property, and we will be mirroring BRK menu with chefs here (most likely Remy; she’s a great cook!). Rather than one big table, we will be breaking them up into smaller tables,” Erin says.

*Remy often hosts outdoor special events during summer months and will continue to do so this year, respecting new public health regulations.*

Plans are also underway for the Bounty of Yamhill County dinner, and the Opera on the Lawn. “We’re keeping it fun, creative and safe. One of Remy’s greatest gifts has always been her creativity and can-do attitude,” says Erin.

Remy no longer offers food for purchase or allows outside food to be consumed on site, but they do have “porch pick -up” every day for wines ordered online.

For reservation requests visit wine@remywines.com or 503.412.8387. A $30 deposit will be taken and applied to tasting fees and/or wine purchases, ensuring a no-touch check-out process.

Day Wines at Day Camp

Just before the shutdown, we stopped by Day Camp’s spacious tasting facility and enjoyed Day Wines’ petillant naturalle (sparkling) and Peridot- a 90% syrah and 10% viognier blend, along with her perfect- for- everyday Vin de Days, both blanc and rouge.

*Brianne Day’s wines are made from grapes sourced from grower partners with biodynamic and/or organic practices.*

Day Camp is now open for tastings Wednesday through Sunday from 11 am-5 pm but reservations are necessary for parties of six people or more. The winery plans to use Open Table for bookings soon. Walk-ins are still welcome.

*Day Wines will soon use Open Table for tasting bookings.*

“It has definitely been an unusual time for us where we have had to make quite a few adjustments to how we typically run things here at Day Wines. But we are making it work. We’re very fortunate that we have a large patio area, with a lot of covered spots. We have heaters for when the Oregon rain hits, and even an outdoor fireplace for just chilly days. We feel very lucky for that, since we are not doing any tastings in our actual tasting room. Everything is outside now,” says Leyla.

Make reservations at tastingroom@daywines.com or 971.832.8196.

Durant at Red Hill Farms

Durant at Red Hill Farms was recommended by our host at Day Wines and was another we dropped by to visit. The estate wines here include Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Rose of Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris. We particularly enjoyed the Pinot Noirs we tried and the Sauv Blanc and Pinot Gris were perfect for the unseasonably hot weather we were having. We were also impressed with the sensational views and expansive grounds, which include beautiful lavender fields, a plant nursery and Oregon’s only commercial olive oil mill.

We dropped in to Durant for a wine tasting prior to the pandemic.

Durant is the only winery I contacted that hasn’t reopened to the public for tastings yet, but they are welcoming back their wine and olive oil club members now.

Erin Rapp explains, “Wine and olive oil club members will need reservations and are limited to groups of six people. There is no tasting fee for members, but the time limit is 90 minutes per group. Tastings are currently available Friday through Monday, outside only, and there is food for purchase that can be consumed on property. Wine is also available for purchase by the bottle for on-site consumption.”

*Durant has been operating Oregon’s only commercial olive oil mill since 2008. Tours are complimentary but reservations are required.*

Durant’s olive oil mill is open for complimentary tours by reservation only. Guests will soon have the opportunity to enjoy touchless olive oil tastings in the shop, Erin says.

Wine tasting is not yet available to the public, but walking trails, the plant nursery, and the shop are open daily from 11 am to 4 pm.

The plant nursery, shop, grounds, and the walking trail are all open to the public during business hours. The winery offers pick-up at the farm for online purchases, daily from 11 am to 4 pm and they’ll deliver orders of $100 or more to Salem, Portland and Vancouver (WA).

For updated information visit shop.redridgefarms.com or call 503.864.2000 x 2 for curbside service.

Terra Vina

Terra Vina is one of a number of smaller wineries with tasting rooms in historic downtown McMinnville. Guests can taste varietals like Sangiovese, Cabernet Franc, Tempranillo, Merlot, and Petite Verdot. Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Riesling may also be on Terra Vina’s rotation.

Terra Vina’s seating can accommodate groups of up to six. Reservations are required for one-hour seated tastings but walk- Ins are welcome if a table is available.

Terra Vina has taken a number of measures to ensure visitors enjoy their wine tasting safely. “Our tasting room has been reconfigured to allow guests to maintain a safe social distance from other parties. To minimize contact between our team and guests, we will be serving multiple wines in the flight at the same time. We will be using limited contact protocols for all transactions and will only be accepting credit card payment (no cash),” says Carole Dinger.

*Terra Vina’s wines are available for sale at their McMinnville tasting room.*

Currently, the McMinnville tasting room welcomes guests with reservations Fridays and Saturdays from 12-6pm and Sundays from 12-4pm. Tastings are $15 per person. Their Wilsonville vineyard tasting room will be open the second and fourth Saturday of the month from 12-6 pm. Vineyard tours will not be available until a later date. Lawn seating will be available for bottle/glass consumption.

Summing It All Up

*Things are changing day by day. Check in with the wineries you plan to visit. Be patient– everyone is doing their best to deliver a safe and fun experience!*

Here’s the pandemic playbook–Wear your mask, wash your hands, respect social distancing, and be sure to check with individual wineries for reservations and updates before heading out for a tasting. Please be patient. In these fast-changing times, everyone’s doing the best they can. Cheers!

PS If you’d like some practical information on where to stay, eat and play in Oregon’s Wine Country click here.

McMinnville’s Pinots, Pints and UFOs— Oregon’s Wine Country Practicalities

Oregon’s Wine Country is only about an hour drive from downtown Portland, so some people consider it a day trip. That’s one idea, and we hope they use a designated driver, but we like to settle in for a few days and get to know a place. We talked about visiting the Willamette Valley’s wineries in a recent post. Here’s some practical advice on where to eat, sleep and enjoy the area.

Location, Location…

We’ve chosen McMinnville as our wine country base twice. It’s right in the heart of the Willamette Valley AVA with its nearly 600 wineries, there are a plenty of lodging options, and most important, there are a lot of places to eat (and drink), all within walking distance.

Whether you’re interested in a stroll around town to wineries with tasting rooms right in the downtown or you’re more into pints than Pinot Noir, there’s a lot to choose from in McMinnville. Wineries, breweries, coffee shops, a tea house, restaurants, bistros, bars, bakeries, pizzerias and an ice cream parlor line Third Street, the main thoroughfare in this historic town. There are boutiques, galleries, and shops for souvenirs and necessities. From May to October—there’s a wonderful Thursday Farmer’s Market with everything from handmade soaps to home baked pies.

McMinnville’s Thursday Farmers Market has something for everyone.

McMinnville also hosts annual events like the International Pinot Noir Celebration, Walnut City Music Festival, Turkey Rama, an old-fashioned Starlight Parade to kick off the holiday season and the UFO Festival. The latter, billed as “the most popular UFO Festival in the world” is on my list. See photos of past events here. For a relatively small town, there’s a lot going on here.

Work off those calories with a bike ride or a hike.

There’s plenty of hiking, biking, and picnicking to be done, even if there aren’t any events happening.

Hungry?

Whatever your palate or pocketbook, there’s something here to satisfy. What follows is our recommendations– not an exhaustive list of McMinnville’s dining spots.

Thistle

Our hands down favorite for dinner is Thistle, an intimate restaurant just off Third Street. Thistle serves memorable meals with ingredients sourced uber locally. The menu changes frequently to reflect what’s available seasonally and it’s written on a chalk board; purveyors are listed at the bottom, so you know who grew your food.

We loved everything we tried including this delectable rabbit dish.

You’ll find starters like Netarts Bay oysters and mains like rockfish with fennel, oxalis, yogurt and fava pods or rabbit with collard greens, turnip and spring onion. The wine list favors Oregon producers and the waitstaff are friendly and helpful. Reservations are necessary. Thistle is a very small space and hugely popular with locals and visitors. Fun fact—the restaurant was named for the thistle wallpaper the owner spotted when designing the space.

Red Hills Kitchen

The restaurant is in the Atticus Hotel (more about that later), and like most in McMinnville, focuses on seasonal, locally sourced ingredients. They tweak classic dishes like Shepard’s Pie using tenderloin of beef. The meatloaf was delicious and nothing like your mother made, we promise.

Red Hills Kitchen’s tasty version of Shepard’s Pie.

Try anything cooked in the Josper oven, like this cod.

The Josper oven uses charcoal and imparts a lovely smokey element to dishes.

Red Hills Kitchen has a massive Josper oven that uses the same Thaan charcoal Portland’s Pok Pok uses. It imparts a subtle smoky flavor to the dishes, like the roasted beets, cod, and pork shoulder on the menu when we dined. Fancy donuts are available at dinner and the bucket of mini donuts can be had at breakfast, lunch and to go. Get some!

Check out Red Hills Kitchen’s Happy Hour.

They have a solid wine list with plenty of local wines to choose from and a fun cocktail list. Red Hills Kitchen also has a Happy Hour with drink and food specials. We had dinner twice in as many nights here in March.

Red Hills Market is our go-to for sandwiches and picnic provisions.

Red Hills Market in nearby Dundee, which is affiliated with the Red Hills Kitchen, is our go-to for sandwiches and picnic supplies. They also make wood-fired pizza, but it wasn’t available on our visits.

In addition to good food, you can pick up some fun gifts or souvenirs.

They’ve got cheeses, baked goods, and fancy foods, plus tea towels, coffee mugs and other kitchen-related items that make great gifts or souvenirs. The Market is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner and also serves wine and beer.

Nick’s Italian Cafe

Nick’s is on everyone’s McMinnville list because it’s good—-and Nick was a James Beard Award Winner. His daughter runs the restaurant now but it’s still one of the most popular places in town. This is where to go for house made pastas, wood fired pizza and classic Italian specialties. The place is always packed so if it’s Dungeness lasagna or a pizza bianca you’re craving, be sure to book a table.

Dungeness crab lasagna. Need we say more?

The wine list features Italian varietals from Tuscany, Piemonte and Southern Italy as well as local vintages from Oregon producers.

3rd Street Pizza Co.

Pop into 3rd Street Pizza for pie, calzone and wings.

If you want a pizza in a casual setting and are thinking of seeing a movie, too, you can get both at 3rd Street Pizza. Delicious, classic, hand- tossed pies are available in sizes ranging from 10” to family-friendly 18” pizzas. They also have sandwiches, salads, calzones and wings. We focused on the pizza.

Hand tossed, classic pizza– and a movie!

There is a movie theater in the rear of the restaurant, and you can enjoy your food while you watch the show. After 5 p.m., guests over 21 can order alcoholic drinks to bring into the theater. There is an admission fee for the movies. Note—please check the theater schedule online. The theater may be closed due to Covid- 19 restrictions.

Bistro Maison

Fancy French cuisine? Traditional French bistro items like escargot, coq au vin, steak au poivre and cassoulet await guests at Bistro Maison. The dining room is as classic as the bistro menu and draws a crowd. There is also garden seating, but we took a table indoors. There were a lot of people celebrating occasions the night we dined, which created a festive atmosphere.

Classic bistro fare like this chicken with morels made our night.

The wine list is international. Local producers and French bottlings get top billing, but Australia, New Zealand, and Argentina all make a showing. Service is attentive and we enjoyed a very pleasant evening. Bistro Maison serves lunch and dinner.

Pura Vida Cocina

Local friends suggested lunch at Pura Vida and we’re glad they did. It wasn’t easy to choose from the seasonal Latin American specialties like arepas, empanadas and tacos so we tried a few things and shared them. The tortillas are handmade and when stuffed with the barbocoa beef—delicious! Wine, beer and cocktails are available and while those margaritas were tempting, we didn’t indulge.

What’s for lunch? Home-made tortillas filled with fresh, delicious ingredients.

The restaurant is very casual but there is interesting art on the walls. It’s a popular place so book a table for lunch or dinner.

Java Joints

Red Fox has coffee, pastries, sandwiches and more.

Two places we like for coffee are Flag and Wire and The Red Fox Bakery. The latter also serves sandwiches and light fare, but we were all about the coffee and pastry. We liked the coffee so much at Flag and Wire, we bought some to take out to the coast with us and more to bring home.

Ice Cream

We had unseasonably hot weather on our first trip to McMinnville and the truth is, even if we didn’t, we’d still want ice cream. The line was out the door at Serendipity Ice Cream, but it was worth the wait for the two dozen flavors of made-in-Oregon ice cream and house made waffle cones. They serve sundaes, specialty desserts and fresh baked cookies, too.

We also indulged at the Cream ice cream truck at the Thursday McMinnville Farmer’s Market. Once again there was a line, but the fun flavors and homemade ice cream was worth it!

And Now to Sleep

McMinnville has elegant, eclectic, budget and bucolic lodging options. On the outskirts of town, you’ll find big budget chains like Red Lion Inn, Best Western and Comfort Inn. In the eclectic category there’s the very quirky The Vintages– a vintage trailer “resort” or the McMenamins Hotel Oregon with shared bathrooms but a bustling rooftop bar. There are also bed and breakfast options and vacation homes for rent. We chose none of those.

The Third Street Flats got our vote, twice. Owned by the same people behind the elegant Atticus Hotel, the Third Street Flats are eleven different apartments of varying sizes and décor in two downtown McMinnville buildings. The flats all have kitchens and sitting areas with bedrooms to accommodate groups from two to six.

We stayed in the Pearl our first time, in the historic McMinnville Bank Building. There’s not a bank there anymore but there’s a hair salon, a bar called The Bitter Monk and La Rambla, a Spanish restaurant on the ground floor. There’s street parking available and the Thursday Farmer’s Market is right down the street. Unfortunately, we came home several evenings to find that the parking lot behind the building is a gathering spot for some folks who appeared to be down on their luck. Management is working on this issue. The apartment was very comfortable and nicely furnished and decorated. We got a peek at some of the larger units and they all look exactly as presented on the website.

We loved the crisp navy and white decor in the Indigo flat.

We had plenty of room to relax and a full kitchen in the Indigo flat.

The Oddfellows Lodge is right next door to the Atticus Hotel and that’s where we slept on our second trip to the Willamette Valley. We chose the Indigo flat for this visit. We loved the crisp blue and white décor, hardwood floors, fireplace and the full kitchen in this flat. We didn’t do much cooking, but it was nice to know we could. The location was perfect for us and we found on street parking easily. Best of all, Red Hills Kitchen was right next door in the hotel. We also found it handy to pop in and talk to the concierge at the Atticus—everyone behind the front desk was warm, welcoming and had plenty of great tips for enjoying Oregon’s wine country.

We learned a lot of fun facts about McMinnville aka Walnut City at the Atticus Hotel. This historic display is in the lobby area. The walnuts in the bowls are for munching.

The Bunkhouse is the perfect solution for groups of up to six traveling together.

Though we didn’t stay in the Atticus, they were kind enough to show us some rooms and share some historic background on the property and the town.

Our last visit was just days before Covid-19 public safety rules shut down just about everything in McMinnville and the rest of Oregon. While many of the businesses I’ve mentioned here have since re-opened, not all have done so yet or are operating at a reduced capacity. Please check individual websites for updates and further information. Events may also be cancelled or rescheduled.

It’s Time to Stop and Smell the Roses in Portland

A visit to Portland’s world famous International Rose Test Garden is truly a treat for the senses. The heady fragrance of thousands of roses greets you even before you see them. Here on 4.5 acres in the city’s Washington Park, high above Portland’s hustle and bustle, visitors will delight in the sights and aromas of more than 10,000 individual plants and 650 different varieties of gorgeous roses.

About 700,000 people visit Portland’s International Rose Test Garden each year.

With whimsical names like Angel Face, Candy Cane Cocktail, Carmel Kisses, Champagne Wishes, First Crush, Falling in Love and Jump for Joy, giant blooms and tiny tea varieties give approximately 700,000 visitors a year something to smile about.

How about Gold-medal winning Sunshine Daydream to brighten your day?

These beautiful blooms are a delight to the senses.

Barbra Streisand, Bishop Desmond Tutu, Pope John Paul II, Dale Chihuly, Ingrid Bergman, George Burns, Coretta Scott King, Dick Clark, Marilyn Monroe and England’s Queen Elizabeth are among the luminaries who have a namesake rose here.

Well-known people from around the globe including artists, philanthropists, world and religious leaders have namesake roses here.

While the peak month for rose viewing is June, our visit in August was sensational. According to the Portland Parks & Recreation Department, which owns and manages the Rose Garden, roses are in bloom from May through October.

These floral favorites were glorious even in August.

Plan accordingly–we arrived in April one time and were disappointed to see we’d come too early. We enjoyed a stroll through the lovely Japanese Garden across the street instead.

More than 650 varieties of roses are grown here.

“Hot Cocoa” seems right, even in the summer.

The oldest continuously operating public rose test garden in the U.S., Portland’s International Rose Test Garden just celebrated its 100^th birthday. The centennial was marked this August with music and other activities.

Portland recently celebrated 100 Years of Roses– that’s why it’s called the Rose City.

During its 100 years of operation the Rose Test Garden has served as just that—a testing ground for new varieties of this floral favorite. During World War I, the Garden also became home and protector of European-grown rose varieties threatened by bombing.

Admission is free and so are guided tours given at 1 p.m. daily from Memorial Day through Labor Day.

To get the most from your visit, download a self-guided tour or join one of the free guided tours offered daily at 1 p.m. from Memorial Day through Labor Day. Enjoy the roses during your visit but remember, absolutely no plantings or cuttings can be removed from the Garden.

Dick Clark’s namesake rose won “Portland’s Best Rose” last year.

Admission to the Rose Garden is free. There is limited metered parking available. Consider taking public transportation or a ride share to reach the Garden. Take Trimet MAX to Washington Park and then use the free shuttle from the station that runs throughout the Park.

The next time Portland, Oregon is on your itinerary, treat yourself to a visit here and find out why it’s called the Rose City. And take time to smell, the well… you know!

A Walk in the Woods—Portland’s Hoyt Arboretum

If you enjoy a walk on the wilder side, visit Portland’s Hoyt Arboretum. Just up the hill in Washington Park from the refined and well-manicured Japanese Garden, nature lovers will find 12 miles of rustic trails that run through the 187-acre park.

Visitors can explore 12 miles of rustic trails, many fairly rugged. There are two miles of trails suitable for strollers and wheelchairs.

Trails are well marked and lead to “family” groupings of trees.

The Hoyt Arboretum boasts 6,000 plants and trees representing 1,100 species and it’s free to visit. The trees, first planted in the 1930s by John W. Duncan, are grouped with others they are related to, in areas closest to their natural, native habitat.

The Hoyt Arboretum is a nature lover’s paradise in Portland’s Washington Park.

Visitors can meander down the Magnolia Trail to the Magnolia Grove or view a broad array of holly on the Holly Loop. You’ll find Oak Trail, Beech Trail, Maple Trail, Hawthorn Trail, Walnut Trail, Redwood Trail, Bristlecone Pine Trail— you get the picture. If you have a favorite kind of tree, chances are you can find it here, along with its closest relatives.

Volcano Vista is one of many scenic spots in the 187-acre “living museum.” Mt. Ranier, Mt. St. Helens, Mt. Adams and Mt. Hood are off in the distance.

Be aware that many of the trails are fairly rugged and not well suited to people with ambulatory challenges. There are, however, two miles of trails appropriate for strollers, wheelchairs and less sure-footed visitors. Be sure to wear comfortable walking shoes for your Arboretum adventure.

The Magnolia Grove was a personal favorite. There are so many varieties of this beautiful flowering tree to enjoy at the Hoyt Arboretum.

The Hoyt Arboretum hosts 90-minute tours on many Saturdays, but it’s best to call or check the website www.hoytarboretum.org to confirm the schedule. In the autumn, there are Fall Color Tours and during April, which is Arbor Month, volunteer docents guide visitors on the Magnolia and Spring Blossom Tours. A $3 donation is suggested for the tours. Check with the Arboretum for other tours and events throughout the year.

Check out the guided Magnolia and Spring Blossoms tours, held on Saturdays in the Spring.

The Hoyt Arboretum is pet and family friendly. We encountered a number of families with cavorting canines and energetic children frolicking in the meadow areas.

Daffodils, a sure harbinger of Spring, were blooming in the Winter Garden during our recent visit.

The Visitor Center, which includes a small nature center and a research library, was closed when we visited, but the restrooms were open. There were brochures available, which included handy trail maps.

There was something to delight the eye in every area of the Hoyt Arboretum. This is a view of the Winter Garden.

There is a Winter Garden to explore and a picnic area when you’re ready for a break. There are no cafes or restaurants on the Arboretum’s grounds so come prepared. We often stop by Elephant’s Deli on NW 22^nd Avenue. It’s a great place to pick up provisions on your way to Washington Park. You can order everything from pizza to black bean burgers, prepared while you wait, or order ahead for sandwiches, sack lunches, full picnics, and platters. They also have “grab and go” items, a full bakery, and plenty of specialty foods and gift items. A complete menu is available at www.elephantsdeli.com.

Specialty foods, full picnics, platters, pre-packaged salads and sandwiches, side dishes, baked goods and more are on offer at Elephant’s Deli.

Get a pizza, fried chicken, burgers and other entrees to bring to the park or enjoy before you go. There are no dining facilities at the Hoyt Arboretum so be prepared.

There is a small pay parking lot at the entrance to the Hoyt Arboretum or take the free Washington Park shuttle bus up from the transit center (Max Red or Blue lines to Washington Park). The complimentary shuttle runs around the park from April through October. For current information, please visit www.explorewashingtonpark.org and enjoy your walk in the woods in this remarkable spot in Portland.

Seeking Serenity at Portland’s Spectacular Japanese Garden

Gorgeous grounds, stunning views and an authentic Japanese experience have been delighting visitors to Portland’s spectacular Japanese Garden since 1963. Now, the beautiful 12-acre oasis, which includes five separate gardens with plenty of peaceful seating areas for reflection, a Japanese Tea House, tranquil ponds, and meandering paths perfect for contemplation, has even more to offer. Last month the new $33.5 million Cultural Crossing opened to visitors.

Follow the footpaths, steps and bridges that lead to each of the separate and distinctive garden spaces within Portland’s Japanese Garden.

The new $33.5 million Cultural Crossings expansion project includes new exhibition space, library, tea house and additional garden areas, all designed to enhance the authentic Japanese experience for visitors.

Designed by respected architect Kengo Kuma, the Cultural Crossing’s new buildings provide the perfect showcase for traditional Japanese arts and culture and serve as a venue for family-friendly activities and interesting demonstrations. An already popular attraction is even more appealing with the new expansion project. No wonder the lines for tickets are long. Purchase tickets online and check-in at the membership desk, exchange your voucher for a ticket there, and avoid the serpentine lines that are sure to continue for some time.

Minutes away from Portland’s busy streets, the Portland Japanese Garden is an oasis of tranquility.

Many visitors take the complimentary shuttle up to the gardens and walk back down to the parking area along the paved pathways.

Visitors can either take a complimentary shuttle bus or walk up the pathway to the open and airy Japanese Arts Learning Center–the heart of the new project with performance space, library and classroom.

Young visitors take a break on the steps inside the new Jordan Schnitzer Japanese Arts Learning Center.

The ground level Tanabe Gallery currently hosts an exhibition of ceramics, calligraphy, and sculpture by former Japanese Prime Minister Hosokawa Morihiro.

A delightful display of ceramics, calligraphy, and sculpture by former Japanese Prime Minister Hosokawa Morihiro are currently on exhibit in the Tanabe Gallery and Pavilion Gallery.

The expansive display, Hosokawa Morihiro: The Art of Life, a Rebirth in Clay, continues in the Pavilion Gallery, which also includes a portable teahouse. Two additional “Art in the Garden” showcases, one featuring Kabuki costumes and the other, Noh masks and costumes, are scheduled for later in the year. The Japanese Garden will host related events and activities associated with both.

A portable tea house with the implements needed to perform a classic Japanese tea ceremony are part of the current exhibition. Noh masks and costumes and Kabuki costumes will be featured in the galleries later this year.

Now, to explore these magnificent gardens! The Strolling Pond Garden was our first stop, after a visit to the Learning Center and Gallery. Visitors can walk across the “iconic Moon Bridge” over the Upper Pond and enjoy the views.

Stroll the “Zig-Zag Bridge” over the Lower Pond which is surrounded by iris. It had not quite bloomed at the time of our visit, but was close. The aptly named Heavenly Falls provide the perfect backdrop to the Lower Pond and were a popular “selfie stop.”

The Heavenly Falls provide the perfect backdrop for contemplation or photo opps.

Follow the rough stepping stones along a lantern- lined path through the beautiful Japanese Tea Garden to the authentic Kashintei Tea House. Typically, the tea garden is a place to appreciate nature’s beauty and “the art of living in harmony” while leaving the cares of the world behind. This is certainly the case at the Portland Japanese Garden—it is so serene it’s easy to forget you are mere minutes from busy city streets.

Visitors are invited to leave their worldly cares behind when they explore the authentic tea garden and Kashintei Tea House.

The Kashintei Tea House, which is where tea demonstrations and related events are held, was brought to Portland from Japan and reassembled here.

Contact the Japanese Garden to learn when tea demonstrations and other events are scheduled for the Kashintei Tea House.

The Portland Japanese Garden has a lovely Sand and Stone Garden, created by Professor Takuma Tono, the Garden’s chief designer in the 1960s. These “dry landscape” gardens are sometimes called “Zen Gardens” because they are often found at Zen monasteries and are meant to invite quiet contemplation. The Sand and Stone Garden here illustrates an important Japanese concept—“the beauty of blank space.”

Enjoy your moments of Zen at the Sand and Stone Garden.

Recent additions to Portland’s Japanese Garden include the Natural Garden, which features local plants not typically associated with Japanese gardens and depicts seasonal change.

The cherry blossoms were in full bloom during our recent visit to Portland’s Japanese Garden.

The small courtyard garden (Tsubo-Niwa) and the Ellie M. Hill Bonsai Terrace are both new and located near the Tateuchi Courtyard in the Cultural Village.

Visitors are treated to an exquisite display of bonsai at the new Ellie M.Hill Bonsai Terrace.

The Flat Garden, which highlights each of the four seasons with specific plantings and trees is popular with visitors. The weeping cherry tree on the left represents spring while a 100- year old maple depicts autumn.

The Flat Garden is meant to be viewed from a single angle either from inside a home, where the door or window serves as a frame, or from a verandah, as these visitors are doing.

The gravel stands in for water, signifying summer in the Flat Garden.

After you’ve finished strolling around the gorgeous gardens and interesting exhibitions, stop in and sample the fare at the new Umami Café. During our visit, just a week after the April 2 reopening, the café was not yet serving food but was offering complimentary samples of four delicious teas from Tokyo-based Jugetsudo Tea Company. (Update– Light snacks and sweets were available on subsequent visits.)

Stop in the new Umami Cafe for a restorative cup of tea and authentic Japanese sweets and snacks.

During our visit, guests were offered four different and delicious teas as part of a complimentary tea tasting.

When His Excellency Nobuo Matsunaga, the former Ambassador of Japan to the United States, visited the Portland Japanese Garden, he proclaimed it “the most beautiful and authentic Japanese garden in the world outside of Japan,” according to the organization.

Tranquil settings such as this one near the Upper Pond, have been drawing visitors since 1963.

They currently report more than 350,000 visitors annually, a number that will surely grow with the addition of the new Cultural Crossroads expansion. Be sure to add this spectacularly beautiful and serene spot to your Portland itinerary. For updated information on tickets, events and hours click here.

Let’s Eat—Downtown Portland: Departure, Mucca, Andina, Irving St. + Imperial

Portland is known as a food lover’s paradise and for good reason. The Rose City has something for every palate and budget from food trucks to fine dining. Every time we visit, and it’s pretty regularly, the big decision is always where to eat next.

It’s hard to beat the views and ambiance at Departure Lounge on the rooftop at the Nines Hotel.

If the weather is nice and the skies are clear, begin your evening at Departure Restaurant + Lounge on the rooftop at The Nines Hotel. There are splendid views—some of the best in Portland, by our reckoning– to accompany your beverage of choice.

Head upstairs for beautiful views, a lively happy hour and tasty Asian-fusion cuisine.

There are appetizers to order and you can take a peek at their rooftop herb garden. The rooftop is hugely popular so go early or be prepared to stand. Seating is limited but no one seems to mind. Happy Hour takes place every day from 4-6 p.m.

Cheers!

If you’re looking for dinner, as well as drinks, inside Departure you’ll find an Asian- fusion restaurant with good food and attentive service. The menu features a fine assortment of sushi, salads, dim sum, kushiyaki dishes, wok fired items, and chef’s suggestions. They offer lots of small dishes good for sharing, which is what we did. There’s plenty of seafood to choose from, like the wildly popular poke, as well as meat and vegetarian selections.

Order dinner at tables or the bar inside Departure Restaurant + Lounge.

There are plenty of sushi options from traditional to vegetarian rolls available.

The wings in a sweet chili glaze were tasty, as was the steamed short rib bun and the pork shumai. The chili prawns were a little salty and we thought could have used more heat, but flavorful, nonetheless. Crispy Striped Bass was a highlight, served with mango, cashews and a chili lime sauce.

Chicken wings were crispy and delicious.

Chili prawns were perfect for sharing.

Departure Restaurant + Lounge has an interesting wine list with plenty of wines that have been selected to pair perfectly with the food. They also offer a full compliment of cocktails, as well as spirits, beer, saki, teas and interesting sounding “no proof” libations. Knowledgeable staff are happy to help with decision making.

The wine list has lots of fun choices that complement the menu nicely.

Mind your step– you may well feel like you’re aboard an aircraft, especially walking down the long hallway towards the restrooms.

For views, atmosphere, beverages and a bite to eat, it’s hard to beat Departure.

Prepare for a delightful dining experience at Mucca.

If you’re in the mood for delicious Italian cuisine prepared with care and graciously served in a charming, intimate setting, try Mucca.

Enjoy a taste of Italy with a Sicilian flair in Downtown Portland.

The prosciutto and burrata is a great starter and easy to share, as is the insalata barbabietole (beet salad) with ricotta and hazelnuts. Try the excellent scallops with Parmesan fondue, if you’re looking for something richer.

A generous portion of creamy burrata is hiding inside this delicious nest of prosciutto.

The pastas are all terrific (we’ve tried just about every one here), especially the tortelli ai funghi—a beautiful dish of fresh pasta stuffed with mushrooms and ricotta, and topped with asparagus in a light and lovely cream sauce.

The tortelli with mushrooms is a personal favorite at Mucca.

The papparadelle with boar ragu is a hearty dish, full of flavor and reminds us of Tuscany. For an interesting take on risotto, try Mucca’s preparation with elk sausage.

This braised rabbit ragu with olives and pine nuts is typically served with a red beet tagliatelle. Here, we substituted pici pasta for the tagliatelle.

Elk sausage makes Mucca’s risotto delightfully different.

If you have a big appetite, opt for the pork shoulder, which is slow cooked, and falling off the bone. It’s served with creamy polenta. The daily fish special is always a winner, too.

Mucca’s wine list features producers from across Italy from Tuscany to Sicily.

Enjoy a digestivo after your meal. Mucca has many excellent ones to choose from.

With the exception of some French sparklers, the wine list is all Italian, from regions throughout the country from Piemonte to Sardinia. Knowledgeable servers are happy to help with your selections. In our experience, Mucca never disappoints.

Marvelous Andean cuisine awaits at Andina.

If you have a taste for amazing Peruvian cuisine try Andina. You’ll find South American cooking in both traditional and contemporary, or NovoAndean (as they call it here), style at this big, bustling eatery.

We always say “yes, please” to the empanadas at Andina. Both the beef and vegetable versions are terrific.

Empanadas are just one of Andina’s “don’t miss” tapas dishes. Several superb preparations of scallops, shrimp, and other seafood, vegetable dishes, soups and stews, plus cerviches make up the extensive list. There are so many great sounding options it can be overwhelming to choose.

Pimento Piquillo Relleno, stuffed with quinoa, cheese and Serrano ham, makes a very tasty starter.

A classic Tortilla de Papa brings potatoes to a new level.

The tapas are meant to share so be sure to bring friends. That also gives you the chance to try more of their tasty dishes. There have been times when we have selected so many tapas; we could barely eat our entrees, which we would also recommend sharing.

Crunchy, crispy Chicharrones de Langostinos are perfect for sharing.

Among Andina’s entrees, we recommend the lamb shank, which is perfectly prepared and served with traditional accompaniments. It’s a very large portion. The fish dishes are also very good, especially the tuna, which is served with red lentils and a gooseberry sauce. There are numerous vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options here, too.

Quinoa turns up in a number of dishes, including this delightful presentation of Quinoa con Verduras.

Though walk- ins are welcome to dine downstairs or in the busy bar area on a space available basis, if you want a guaranteed table, it’s essential to reserve. You’ll be glad you did.

Another award-winning downtown dinner spot to try.

Named one of Portland’s 2016 Best Restaurants by The Oregonian, Irving Street Kitchen is right down the street from Andina in the Pearl District. Irving Street is going for an “elegant casual” vibe and it seemed to be very of the moment on the Saturday night we dined there.

Everyone seemed to be having a great time at Irving Street Kitchen.

They have a terrific “wines on tap program” so you can sample a bunch of local wines you might not have heard of—we hadn’t– without breaking the bank. There were four whites, six reds and a rose on tap, all from Oregon and Washington, when we visited. In addition to the wines and beers on tap, there are craft cocktails and a nice wine list with lots of choices from the Pacific Northwest.

Sample a few selections from the “on tap” wine program featuring wines from independent producers in Oregon and Washington.

Irving Street has heartier starters like the charcuterie or cheese selections, Manila clams, and meatballs, for example, but we began with salads, which were fresh and crisp. We had the baby lettuces and the Bibb wedge—classics, updated with additions like wildflower Riesling dressing and candied bacon with pecan nibs, respectively.

Decisions, decisions, decisions.

We started with several crisp salads, including the Bibb Wedge shown here.

The double pork chop was superb and enormous, as was the buttermilk fried chicken. Both were extremely satisfying and big enough to share. The carrot butter poached halibut sounded awfully tempting but we went for the salmon this time and weren’t disappointed.

The succulent double pork chop was redolent with a smoky flavor throughout.

Crispy buttermilk fried chicken was a winner.

A peek inside Irving Street’s kitchen.

Irving Street Kitchen is hip and happening so definitely book in. Get one of their curtained booths if you can, or stake out a seat at the buzzy bar. Irving Street Kitchen also serves brunch on weekends and has a Happy Hour.

Another downtown favorite is Chef/Owner Vitaly Paley’s Imperial. This casual and always crowded restaurant has been one of our Portland “go tos” for years.

The award-winning Imperial is popular for good reason.

Though former Top Chef finalist Doug Adams is no longer in the kitchen, his signature fried chicken is still on the menu, served with house-made hot sauce and honey. (Update–Doug’s back in the kitchen in his own place called Bullard’s. Definitely go there and have the Texas chicken. Go hungry- portions are generous!)

The signature fried chicken is a standout!

Though we don’t love paying for bread and butter, the Parker House rolls with Jacobsen Sea Salt are always on our table at Imperial, along with a big basket of their terrific fries.

Imperial’s fries are irresistible. Maybe it’s their “secret sauce.”

The sunflower seed brittle on the kale and vegetable salad makes that one special. The duck meatballs are a terrific starter, too.

Sunflower seed brittle gives this kale salad a satisfying crunch.

The duck meatballs deliver big on taste.

Some of the other “don’t miss” dishes are the barrel planked pork secretto, roasted half chicken, any fish done la plancha-style, and the fried rabbit with bacon, though we haven’t seen that dish on the menu lately.

Perfectly prepared Planked Pork Secretto from Tails & Trotters, is served with a fantastic Romesco sauce.

The grilled halibut is simply delicious.

The wine list features plenty of French selections but Oregon, Washington, and California wines are also well represented. Italian wines, along with craft cocktails, reserve, draft, and bottled beers, and ciders are all on offer.

There are always new and interesting wines to try on Imperial’s list.

Though we missed seeing a few of the friendly faces that always made dining at Imperial a bit more special, we still had a wonderful dinner on our most recent visit. Imperial serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. Try their Happy Hour, too– the food is terrific and the prices are a real deal.

These are a few of our downtown favorites in Portland. We’ll be back with more dining recommendations in another post. In the meantime, let us know about your Portland picks!

PDX Hits and Misses: Muscadine, Nonna, and Din Din

Portland has become one of our favorite food cities and we’ve been fortunate to visit frequently over the last few years. There are so many terrific restaurants–we have to force ourselves to branch out from our favorites and give other places a try. That was our goal on our most recent excursion to the Rose City.

Try Muscadine for delicious Southern cooking.

Muscadine

Southern food is enormously popular in Portland, especially when it is as well prepared as it is at Muscadine muscadine. We stopped by for lunch a scant 30 minutes before closing, yet were warmly welcomed. It was a beautiful, sunny day so we opted for one of the picnic benches outside the casual restaurant.

Choose one of Muscadine’s outdoor tables on a sunny day but get there early for the fried chicken!

Sadly, the fried chicken, which we had been anticipating hungrily, was sold out. We had been warned that that could happen to late arrivals. Never the less, there were ample appealing choices on the menu and the four of us settled on several portions of catfish, the salmon croquettes and the BBQ cup.

Muscadine’s tasty BBQ Cup…

The BBQ cup turned out to be a nice big biscuit filled with tender pulled pork in a tasty BBQ sauce topped with cheese and baked in the oven. So delicious, I soon forgot about the chicken.

…delicious, tender pulled pork in a fluffy biscuit.

The catfish had a crunchy, crispy crust and was moist and tender on the inside. It was served with a “come back” sauce much like a traditional home made tartar sauce with a kick—a perfect foil for the fish. The salmon croquettes were flavorful and included two ample croquettes

Crispy catfish, fried okra and crunchy cornbread.

The mains came with three side dishes and there were fourteen to choose from. The sides could also be ordered separately for $4 each. We sampled several–perfect corn bread; fried potatoes; tasty, crispy fried okra (I’m not usually a fan of okra but this was really good); a sweet and sour coleslaw—different but flavorful; extra crispy bacon; braised local squash; grits; and biscuits with excellent preserves and butter. The preserves were great with the cornbread, too, and our server was happy to bring more.

Salmon croquettes, grits, squash and fried okra.

Service was attentive and gracious and though we probably overstayed our welcome, were never rushed– in fact our waitress kept our coffee cups filled right up to the time when we finally pushed ourselves away from the table. We’ll be back for sure.

Nonna

DOC’s casual sister restaurant Nonna.

We were excited to try this casual offering from the popular and well-regarded DOC next door. Nonna nonnapdx has a casual vibe with a large bar area and simple, wooden tables. There is another equally casual dining room just beyond the bar.

Nonna has a large, welcoming bar.

Nonna also has a cozy and charming patio in the back, hung with clothes lines and a few items of clothing that were certainly not going to dry on the rainy Friday evening we dined there. It would be a wonderful place to gather with friends and enjoy some good Italian cooking and a beverage on a pleasant Portland evening.

A small, charming patio would be a great gathering spot in nice weather.

Like many Portland restaurants, Nonna’s menu is locally focused and changes often. We ordered four appetizers to share between the four of us, as suggested by our server. We chose the octopus, polenta, golden beets, and spaghetti with chilies and breadcrumbs. Everything was nicely prepared and presented.

Charred octopus reminded us of Sicily.

The octopus was tender and delicious with a nice char and served with a lemony aioli, olives, peppers and potatoes–just like the octopus we had enjoyed many times in Sicily. This was my favorite of the starters we chose.

Polenta with pesto.

The fried polenta with pesto was tasty, though not terribly exciting. The roasted beets on the other hand were sublime – a beautiful, big bowl of golden beets with walnuts, chevre, mache, with tasty tarragon vinaigrette.

Golden beets received a generous topping of chevre and hazelnuts.

The pasta dish was small but perfect for sharing. The chilies had a nice zip and the breadcrumbs added welcome texture. We did feel that three appetizers would have been sufficient since we had each ordered an entree as well.

Piquant peppers and toasted breadcrumbs made this spaghetti dish special.

We felt dinner was off to a great start and were all happily enjoying our shared plates when halfway through the appetizers, our entrees arrived. We were surprised, especially since the room is so small that anyone who had even glanced at our table could see we were nowhere near ready for our next course. We cannot account for the lack of communication with the kitchen on this score.

With no place on our small table to put them, the server pulled up a smaller table and rather unceremoniously plopped the four main plates down– we commented that we were not ready for the entrees and were in no rush. Our server replied we could eat the mains when we were ready and walked away. We quickly dispatched the appetizers so our main courses wouldn’t be ice cold when we began.

Perfectly prepared halibut was a hit.

There were three main courses or “secondi” to pick from and we selected all of them. Two of us chose the halibut, which was served with wonderful caramelized fennel wedges and grapefruit segments– a great compliment to the fish in both flavor and texture. The halibut was crispy on the top and perfectly tender and moist inside– cooked just right.

Another in our party had the pork chop with the Romesco sauce served with nice bitter broccoli rabe and roasted potatoes — a large plate with a nicely done chop. We shared a bottle of 2014 Domaine de la Fouquettee —a nice Rosé that worked well with everyone’s meal. Two in our party enjoyed local craft beers as well.

The pork chop was perfect.

Our other dining companion chose the enormous burger served with crispy fries and topped with cherry tomatoes, provolone, aioli, and mixed greens– a step up from the usual accompaniments. He pronounced it the perfect burger.

Non-traditional toppings made the burger a standout.

I have to think our dining experience would have been greatly enhanced had the food service been better timed. Several online reviews alluded to service issues. If they can work out this problem, we’d happily return for the delicious and deftly prepared food. In the meantime, we’re adding DOC DOCpdx to our list for next time.

DOC looks inviting.

Din Din

Din Din’s “Supper Party” is held one weekend each month.

We had wanted to try Din Din dindinportland for several years– ever since we had gone in search of brunch one weekend only to find the place closed. Note to self–always call first. We were delighted to secure a reservation for our party of four for their Saturday night Din Din “Super Party”. One weekend each month the restaurant hosts small groups– about 12 to 14 guests at a time, for a fixed price menu, wines included. Dinner begins at 7:30 p.m.

A lovely Rosé got things off to a great start.

We were greeted in the bar area by our hostess, Courtney, who provided us all with a nice glass of Schloss Gobelsburg Cistercien Rosé and a passed appetizer of roasted Persian Star garlic, Silver Queen corn, and Fiore Sardo on pain d’épices. Ours was a festive and friendly group and several of the guests had dined at Din Din before. They raved about their experiences and we were all eagerly anticipating a splendid evening ahead.

Our group was lively and friendly.

Everyone introduced him or herself and we chatted amiably until Courtney directed us to the communal table, set with vintage silver and china, in the center of the casual but charming room.

A beautiful buttercup squash soup started our meal.

Our first course was a delicious buttercup squash soup garnished with a Costata Romanesco zucchini salad. The soup was accompanied by a glass of Chateau d’ Orschwaihr Pinot Gris ’13. We were surprised that the soup was served at room temperature but still enjoyed it very much.

The wine and conversation flowed nicely but the meal sadly did not. There was quite a long gap between the soup and the next course and it became clear that Courtney had to prepare, plate and serve the food singlehandedly. Our fellow guests who had dined at Din Din on other occasions were very surprised that she had no assistance and commented that there were usually two or three people working together on the meal.

Salmon with a Chartreuse sauce was next.

Next up was a lovely  salmon with a Chartreuse romaine sauce and baby carrots, served with a glass of Domaine de Juchepie Anjou sec “Les Monts” ’11. The salmon dish was also served at room temperature, bordering on cold, and it was pretty evident it should not have been. I can imagine that had it been the proper temperature, it would have been delicious. Nonetheless, the conversation continued to be lively, more wine was poured and a helpful guest made sure everyone’s water glasses stayed full.

The meat course would have been delicious had it been hot.

After another lengthy lull, the meat course was served– to half the guests. Finally, we all had our plates– flank steak with a sauce of Melrose pepper Tulsi basil cream, cucumbers and brussel sprouts with lime. I believe this would have been a wonderful dish had it been heated, but the entire entree was cold. The vegetables were still tasty though cold but the meat and sauce suffered badly. This was accompanied by a very good glass of  Domaine de la Bonne Tonne “Les Charmes” Morgon ’13. At this point our fellow guests were assuring us that ours was not the typical experience at Din Din and counseling us to give it another try.

Conversation and wine flowed freely but the meal’s pacing was problematic.

Next up was a crisp salad of simply dressed greens. While we ate our salads, I noticed Courtney in the kitchen quickly slicing fruit. Finally, dessert was served– thinly sliced Seckel pear with Cointreau caramel  and gruyère cheese. Personally, I was disappointed. The sparkling rose—a Foss Marai “RooS” brut rosé NV served with the dessert compensated somewhat– it was delicious and an excellent finish to an uneven and puzzling dining experience.

By the time we had dessert and the final glass of wine it was nearly midnight and our fellow diners began requesting their checks. The party was clearly over and it seemed no one wanted to be the last to leave.

I followed up with Courtney several days after our meal and learned that her colleague, who usually assists in the kitchen, had been taken seriously ill and so she was left to create the Din Din experience alone. With this in mind we’ll give it another try sometime.

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