Outdoor Art

Bilbao: Art is Everywhere, Not Just at the Guggenheim

I’ve met more than a few people traveling in Spain who take a day trip to Bilbao to visit the Guggenheim Museum and then they leave. The museum IS incredible both for its collections and Frank Geary’s astounding architecture, but there is so much more to experience in the Basque region’s largest and most important city.

*There is art everywhere in Bilbao! To enjoy it all you’ll need more than a day in this vibrant Basque city.*

After a quiet stay on the beautiful Costa Verde, we felt the energy of this revitalized city on arrival. We dropped our car with the valet at the centrally located Hotel Ercilla Bilbao and took a walk around to get our bearings. We couldn’t help but notice the public art, pedestrian only streets, and parks everywhere we went.

The Guggenheim Museum Bilbao

*Architect Frank Geary’s spectacular design has come to represent the city of Bilbao since the Guggenheim opened in 1997.*

We planned a four-day stay in this vibrant city and since it was at the very top of our list, had gotten tickets for the Guggenheim for our first full day in Bilbao. Tickets are timed and the museum is the number one attraction in the city. Buy your tickets online as soon as you have your dates and get them for as early in the day as you can. There is much to see so book lunch at one of the two restaurants in the museum and you can stay all day. Bistro Guggenheim Bilbao is the more casual of the two, while the Michelin one-star Nerua offers a fine dining option.

*Jeff Koon’s* Puppy *serves as the official greeter at the Guggenheim Bilbao.*

We could see the top of the iconic building as we headed towards the Guggenheim, enjoying Bilbao’s bustling streets as we walked the short distance from our hotel. We spotted Puppy by Jeff Koons, waiting out front. People were vying for a turn to take selfies and group pictures in front of the enormous floral sculpture. The building is spectacular—even more so in person—and there are monumental masterworks to experience even before you enter the museum. Louise Bourgeois’ giant spider called Maman, Daniel Buren’s Arcos Rojos and Anish Kapoor’s Tall Tree are all outside the museum, along with the fog “sculpture” by Fujiko Nakaya that creeps out from under the building every hour.

The first enormous gallery you’ll encounter inside is dedicated to Richard Serra’s site-specific work The Matter of Time. His massive steel structures spiral, snake, and defy gravity. Walking through the huge sculptures can be vertiginous, claustrophobic, even isolating, though you are hardly alone here. Feel the texture of the steel, which changes, as does the temperature. Make some noise! People were whistling and yelling to create echoes inside the sculptures. It was a sensory experience on all levels.

*Richard Serra’s monumental The Matter of Time is a multi-sensory experience.* *Here’s the view from above.*

There’s a viewing deck above the gallery where you can take in the entire exhibition at once, something you can’t really do on the ground level. It’s fascinating to watch people going into the work, standing in the center of some of the larger pieces, moving in a single file through the narrow spaces in others, and just wandering around and enjoying it all! I could’ve spent the day just in that gallery.

*The Matter of Time appeals to all ages!*

Steps from the sculpture is a smaller gallery that has models of each piece, information about Serra’s work and process, and details about the steel’s origins. We learned that only gravity is keeping these gigantic sheets of steel upright and in place! There are photos and information about other works Serra has created–many, like this one, site-specific. I was particularly taken with the history of a piece designed for the City of New York which the artist took back, after the city wanted to move the work.

After you’ve spent some time with Richard Serra’s installation, head upstairs to the special exhibitions and the museum’s excellent permanent collection. Highlights during our visit included an extensive Miro exhibition and Yayoi Kusama’s Infinity Mirrored Room— there was a line to enter this small room, but it was worth the wait to step inside the enchanting world she created!

Read about current exhibitions here.

The museum focuses on art from 1945 on—all modern and contemporary pieces, primarily by American artists. Works by many of the artists you’d expect, including Andy Warhol, Jeff Koons, Ellsworth Kelly, Sol Lewitt, Rothko, Oldenburg, Jackson Pollock, Jean-Michel Basquiat, Willem de Kooning, and their contemporaries are all here, along with works by other less familiar artists.

Our day at the Guggenheim Bilbao was definitely a highlight of our travels through the North of Spain.

Mercado de la Ribera

*Take time to explore the oldest covered market in the world– and have a little lunch.*

There are other iconic structures in this Basque city, some with significantly more history than the Guggenheim. Built in 1929, the Mercado de la Ribera (Erriberako Merkatura in Basque)is the largest covered market in the world and features beautiful stained-glass windows and original iron works throughout. In the heart of the old city, it is the perfect place for a quick, casual meal, snack or drink.

The ground level is a massive food hall offering just about everything—vermouth bars, coffee bars, beer bars, tapas bars, and sweets shops! We went on a busy Saturday afternoon and it was really crowded, but the lines went fast. Look around to see what appeals, order, and then grab a seat at a communal table. This is food hall dining at its best.

Upstairs you’ll find purveyors of fresh fish, produce, meats, cheeses, spices—all the things that made me wish I had a kitchen in Bilbao. There’s also a cooking school. If you’d like to take classes, reserve online here.

It was a sunny Saturday afternoon when we set out to explore to the market and old town and it felt like everybody in Bilbao was outside enjoying the fine day. We stopped at the lively and bustling Plaza Mayor, full of cafes and shops, as you’d expect, along with kids playing soccer (and subsequently soccer balls breaking glasses), people at tables and sitting on the ground having tapas and wine, and everyone generally having a lovely time! We saw a bridal group in tutus with the maid of honor hoisting a megaphone making regular announcements—all fun to experience! Plaza Mayor is the perfect place to stop and have a drink or a coffee—and people watch.

Bilbao’s Cathedral and Church of San Anton

While we were in the old town, we visited the beautiful Cathedral, as we do in every European city. Bilbao’s cathedral, Gothic in style, is dedicated to Saint James or Santiago, the city’s patron saint.

There’s also the much smaller Church of Saint Anton, the oldest building in Bilbao, right next to the market. Purchase a combo ticket at the Cathedral so you can visit both splendid sanctuaries. The entrance fee includes an audio guide available in seven languages, including English.

We took a 20-minute walk through an interesting and diverse neighborhood to reach the market/old town area and walked back another route, through an upscale shopping area. These very different experiences showed us two opposing sides to this Basque city.

*An American President and a musican on a busy shopping street.*

Beaux Art Museum

*Rainy days and museums were made for each other!*

Where better to spend a rainy day than a museum—or two? The Fine Arts Museum (also called Beaux Arts Museum) is the second most visited museum in Bilbao. They have an impressive collection of contemporary art, special exhibitions, and European art from the 16^th, 17th and 18th centuries.

You’ll find many well-known Spanish artists like Goya, Picasso, and Velazquez, plus others you may not have heard of, with Basque artists known for their mostly modern and contemporary works in this category. We bought tickets onsite, though if you are visiting during busy summer or holiday times, it is best to get tickets for everything online in advance.

ITSAMuseum

Also known as the Maritime Museum, ITSAMuseum surprised us by the scope of its offerings. Naturally, the focus of the museum is the sea, which has created a livelihood for so many in the area. In addition to all the seafaring/maritime themed exhibitions, artworks and even a surfing exhibit, we saw a terrific video and exhibit on Bilbao’s history and the enormous impact that the Guggenheim Museum has made on the growth and revitalization of the city. The video also focused on the role Basque culture has played in the city’s history and development, the importance of shipping and trade, and what the future may look like for the area. You’ll see what a sad, industrial wasteland Bilbao was not so long ago, and what it took to become the beautiful, vital city that it is now.

There’s a bar next door if you’d like a drink and a snack. While we were visiting, they were celebrating Earth Day there. There was a band and lots of people, including families with kids, singing along to Basque songs, drinking beer (not the kids), and having a good time.

Azkuna Zentroa– Cultural Center

*Surprising art and architecture await just inside Bilbao’s Cultural Center.*

The Cultural Center –Azkuna Zentroa is worth a visit. The façade is all that remains of the original building but the Philippe Starke- designed interior is the real draw. There are three separate structures under one roof and within the walls. Eight hundred different columns were created for the building and from those, the architect chose 47 to become a part of the edifice. Each one is unique and designed from different materials.

*Free public art is on exhibit on the ground floor.*

There is art displayed in various spaces on the ground floor between the columns. Several pieces were by an artist whose work we had seen at the Fine Arts Museum. The Bilbao public library is also in the building and has free art exhibitions in addition to being a lending library. We saw a comic-themed show. There are also some small shops selling arts and artisanal goods produced by local artists and an information center on the ground floor. The building and the library are free to visit.

On the top floor, there’s a gym and a public swimming pool available to everyone. Look up and you’ll see the swimmers overhead—the pool bottom is transparent!

Practicalities: Where to Stay and Delicious Places to Eat

Like every large city there are lodging options at all price points in Bilbao. We stayed at the Autograph Collection Ercilla Bilbao, which is in a great location right in the center of the city on a pedestrian shopping street. It is walking distance to all the major sites and there are plenty of restaurants and shops nearby. Our room was spacious (Vintage King) and overlooked a courtyard, so it was very quiet. Disclosure—I have status with Marriott/Bonvoy that gives me perks like room upgrades and free breakfast, so I often choose a hotel from the brand.

*Be sure to book a table at Ercilla’s rooftop bar, even if you’re a guest.*

The Ercilla has a great rooftop bar with fabulous views over the city—perfect for an aperitivo or an after-dinner drink! They also have light fare available. You don’t have to be a guest to visit the bar but you should make a reservation.

Restaurants We Loved

We ate extremely well in Bilbao—everywhere in the Northern Spain, in fact. As in any Spanish city, it is important to book a table unless you’re having stand up tapas. Here’s where we went in Bilbao—all different and all excellent!

We had a wonderful, casual dinner our first night in Bilbao at La Vina del Ensanche. They offered a prefix menu for €45 per person along with the regular menu. We had an enormous plate of beautiful Iberian ham, fresh fish, vegetable croquettes, and two desserts. The wine was not expensive and selections were almost all Spanish with plenty of local choices. Service was attentive and very helpful describing different dishes and assisting with wine selection. They also had a little shop with specialty food and wine you could buy to take away. This would be a great place for provisions if you had a kitchen!

We also had an excellent dinner at Viejo Zorti, a popular upscale restaurant with a long history. We had shrimp with garlic to start, followed by a whole turbo which they presented at the table with Pil Pil sauce—you’ll see that sauce everywhere! It was a delicious meal but pricey, which we expected because the fish was “price by the kilo” but so fresh and worth every euro. The wine list was extensive and again, service was attentive and extremely helpful.

Bistro Salitre is a lively, buzzy place catering to a younger, hipper crowd than Viejo Zorti. They had both traditional Basque dishes and updated versions of classics. It was fun on a Saturday night and they had music, too!

It can be hard to find a restaurant that’s open on Sunday night, so we were happy to have Serantes II reserved. This one also specializes in fish dishes and was recommended by the hotel. It was quiet and elegant and a nice respite after a day of touring.

We’ll Be Back

Bilbao was a city of surprises and there was more I wanted to see and do there than we could accomplish, even in four days. I’m excited to return to this beautiful Basque city of outstanding art, notable culture, rich history and exemplary cuisine!

Explore Rome’s Ancient Wonders and Avoid the Crowds

Rome is the destination of choice for tens of millions of visitors annually and it seems like everyone is heading to the Eternal City this year. Where do all those tourists go? Only the Vatican gets more visitors than the Colosseum and both boast more than 4 million each year. Rome has more monuments than any other city in the world, so why fight the crowds when there are so many other archeological marvels to see in Bella Roma?

The Vatican Museums are astounding and should be on everyone’s itinerary but even with timed entry tickets, be prepared for enormous crowds.

The savvy traveler to Rome will purchase an Archeological Museum Pass. The last time we checked, 25 Euro will buy you an expedited entrance to several of Rome’s most important archeological sites and museums. The Colosseum, Forum, Palatine Hill, Baths of Diocletian, Crypta Balbi, Palazzo Massimo, Palazzo Altemps, and Baths of Caracalla are all included. The pass is available for purchase at any of these sites and is good for seven consecutive days. The Roma Pass also includes these sites plus additional museums and public transportation. It is available for 32 Euro for a two- day pass or 52 Euro for a three- day pass.

The Baths of Diocletian

The Baths of Diocletian are just across the busy Piazza Repubblica near Rome’s main train station Stazione Termini.

We have visited the Baths of Diocletian many times and have never had to wait on line to enter. On our first visit a few years ago, an expansive Henry Moore exhibition was on display throughout the baths. Seeing Moore’s sculpture, large and small, in this remarkable setting was an incredible experience.

The largest and best preserved thermal baths the Romans constructed, the Baths of Diocletian provide a respite from the crowds, outstanding architecture, art and history.

We were fortunate to see a marvelous Henry Moore exhibition staged at the Baths of Diocletian on one of our first visits here.

Even without a special exhibit on, this museum should be on your list. Built in the 4^th century, these are the largest of all the thermal baths built by the Romans. They are also among the best preserved and easy to reach since they are across the Piazza della Repubblica from Rome’s train station—Roma Termini.

Remarkably preserved Roman mosaics line the floors and some walls within the Baths of Diocletian.

A memorable experience awaits visitors to this archeological and architectural wonder.

Water was stored in these great halls where sculpture now stands.

If you happen to visit the in the evening, you’ll have the opportunity to walk inside the enormous baths bathed in blue light—a simulation of sorts of what the ancient Roman experience may have been. Day or evening, don’t miss this astounding repository of Rome’s magnificent history.

The large marble-clad pool, called the natatio, was about 4,000 square meters and one meter deep. Visitors are free to wander throughout the pool areas and great halls.

In 1561, Michelangelo was given the job of converting the Bath’s frigidarium into a church. He created the beautiful Basilica Santa Maria degli Angeli on the site, along with the cloister he designed. He likely did not live long enough to oversee its construction though it is referred to as Michelangelo’s Cloister. More than 400 works of art, including sculpture, reliefs, altars and more are displayed in the cloister and gardens.

The cloister of Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri, referred to as Michelangelo’s Cloister, contains hundreds of statues, sculpture, altars and sarcophagi.

This is one of several colossal animal heads that were found near Trajan’s Column in 1586 and brought to the cloister.

Inside the National Roman Museum, which has been housed at the Baths of Diocletian since 1889, visitors will find three floors of extraordinary exhibitions and works of art ranging from important documents related to Roman life, culture and commerce through the centuries, to classic sculpture, funerary objects, mosaics and much more.

Art and artifacts from the 5th century BC to the 4th century AD are displayed in the area known as the Epigraphic Museum, part of the National Roman Museum.

Fascinating documents and antiquities relating to Roman life, culture and commerce through the centuries bring the Roman experience to life.

We have visited the Baths of Diocletian numerous times and always spend many more hours than we planned– wandering through the Baths, the garden and cloister, and of course, the marvelous museum and beautiful Michelangelo-designed church, all located on this easy- to- reach site. There is so much to see here. Don’t miss it!

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Built at the behest of Jesuit priest Massimiliano Massimo, whose family had owned the land prior to the construction of Rome’s Termini Station, Palazzo Massimo was constructed between 1883 and 1887.

Also near the Baths of Diocletian you’ll find the stunning Palazzo Massimo alle Terme. This is another of Rome’s great treasures not found on many traveller’s itineraries. The Palazzo Massimo gives visitors a rare look into what life was like for upper class Romans during the empire’s heyday.

Detail of one of the many beautifully preserved mosaics on display at Palazzo Massimo alle Terme.

Here you’ll discover beautifully preserved mosaics, frescoes, stuccoes and entire rooms rebuilt inside the museum from Imperial Roman villas. The beautiful painted garden from Livia’s Villa (constructed 75-50 BC) now displayed here, offers a serene escape in the heart of the busy city.

These carefully restored painted walls once adorned the villa belonging to Livia, wife of Augustus.

This reconstructed room from Villa Farnesina gives a glimpse into upper class Roman life in the 1st century BC.

These bronze arms were fittings from one of two ceremonial vessels owned by Caligula and recovered from Lake Nemi between World Wars I and II. The ships were destroyed during WWII.

Portraits from the Republican to the Imperial era, Greek and Roman sculpture (including the famous Hermaphroditus Asleep from the 2^nd Century), jewelry, furnishings, and even a mummy of an eight-year old are included in the museum’s collections.

The Boxer (also called The Pugilist) seems to gaze plaintively at visitors through his lost eyes. This magnificent sculpture may date from the 4th century BC and was found on Quirinal Hill.

The Lancellotti Discobolos, in the foreground, is another important sculpture from the Antonine period on view at Palazzo Massimo.

Palazzo Altemps

This peaceful courtyard gives visitors to Palazza Altemps quiet respite from the busy Piazza Navona just outside.

Just off the busy Piazza Navona is Palazzo Altemps. This gorgeous 15^th century palace was once home to Cardinal Altemps and has been a part of the Roman National Museum since 1997.

Classical sculpture and elaborately decorated ceilings line the loggia.

The Palazzo includes works ranging from Egyptian antiquities, Greek and Roman sculpture, original frescoes, and the spectacular Ludovisi Collection.

The Ludovisi Fury is thought to be a copy of a Greek work, likely from the 2nd century. The left side of the face was cut horizontally to provide stability and is sometimes called the Sleeping Fury.

Ancient sculpture and reliefs from important collections, notable Egyptian artifacts, frescoes from 70-100 AD, and other antiquities are all housed in the museum’s galleries.

The 104 sculptures that comprise the collection, begun by Cardinal Ludovico Ludovisi in the early 1620s and purchased by the Italian government in 1901, is widely regarded as the centerpiece of the Palazzo Altemps. Be sure to see the famous Ludovisi Throne.

Detail of one of the colossal sculptures displayed at the Palazzo.

The museum also houses several other important collections including the Mattei and “Dragon Collection” which has nothing to do with mythical beasts but is instead the works owned by the del Drago family. Visitors will also find the Pallavicini Rospigliosi Frescoes, which date from 70-100 AD, and notable art and significant artifacts in the Altemps’ Egyptian and Antiquarian collections.

The beautiful Church of San Aniceto is located within the Palazzo Altemps– a serene spot for contemplation and prayer.

Step inside the Church of San Aniceto, which is located within the palazzo and was built in 1617 to house the saint’s remains, for a meditative moment or two and leave the noise and crowds behind.

Crypta Balbi

Crypta Balbi’s excavations show how Rome developed from antiquity through the 20th century, building layer upon layer from its ancient beginnings.

You will not be fighting crowds at Crypta Balbi, also part of the National Roman Museum. It is a wonderful archeological site and should be on your list of remarkable places to see. A subterranean tour through excavations of ancient buildings, combined with fascinating exhibitions, takes visitors on a historical journey from Rome’s earliest beginnings through the 20th century.

The excavations, which give visitors a fascinating look at the city’s earliest development, began in 1981.

Frescoes, such as these from Santa Maria in Via Lata can be found upstairs in the “Rome from Antiquity to Middle Ages” section of the museum.

Ceramics, glass fragments, coins, tools and other items from Roman daily life centuries ago are on display.

Be aware that there are not always English speaking guides available to accompany you through the excavations below the museum but the exhibitions upstairs have information in English. Even without a guide, it is worth exploring the lower level. The museum is at Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, just around the corner from the Largo di Torre Argentina where you’ll find interesting ruins, a sunken excavation site and a cat sanctuary and adoption point.

The Largo di Torre Argentina is home to ancient Roman ruins and a cat sanctuary.

The Pantheon

The Pantheon is one of Rome’s most important and most visited ancient wonders.

The Pantheon is one of ancient Rome’s most glorious structures and has been in continual use since it was built by Marcus Agrippa in 31 BC and rebuilt by the Emperor Hadrian 125-118 AD. Illuminated by the oculus in its magnificent dome, the Pantheon boasts the largest masonry vault ever constructed. As of July 3, 2023 a 5 Euro fee is required to enter. Tickets are available online and onsite and nearly 3,800 were sold the first day.

Originally built in 31 BC by Marcus Agrippa, this is the largest masonry vault ever constructed and it is spectacular.

We have been here when the sun is streaming in through the oculus as well as when the rain is pouring down—a visit here is a memorable experience at any time.

Sculpture, paintings and sacred art adorn the interior of the Pantheon.

The esteemed Italian painter Raphael and Italy’s first king, Vittorio Emanuel II, are both buried here. Go early in the morning to beat the crowds.

Arrive here any time after early morning and be prepared for large crowds and the occasional, “Silencio,” shouted by guards.

After you’ve finished marveling at the immense beauty inside the Pantheon, take a walk around the exterior. You can see excavations of the shops and dwellings that surrounded the building during the era of Imperial Rome.

Shops and homes were once built into the Pantheon’s exterior walls. Visitors can see the remains today.

Close to this magnificent building you’ll find the classic Armando Al Pantheon. Open for lunch and dinner, except on Saturday nights and Sundays, this place serves traditional Roman cuisine. Reservations are essential as it’s popular with locals and tourists.

The Colosseum

If you’ve never visited Rome before, you’ll need to brave the crowds and see the Colosseum.

I’m not suggesting you skip the Colosseum. In fact, if you’re planning to head over that way, be sure to include the Forum and Palatine Hill in your plans. Just be prepared. Lines are less long early in the morning, but there are always lines. If you have an Archeological Pass or Roma Pass you get to go on a much shorter line than those without—just look for the signs. The Colosseum, which took just under 10 years to build, was completed in 80 AD and is the largest amphitheater ever constructed.

Pack your patience and your most comfortable walking shoes. Crowds are huge and steps are steep and unforgiving at the Colosseum–one of Rome’s most visited sites.

There are rules, though apparently not always observed.

You’ll be hiking up and down some very steep stone steps and rocky, uneven walk ways in both the Colosseum and the Forum. There is no shade so wear a hat or take an umbrella to keep the sun off and bring a bottle of water if it’s a hot day. There are no services or shops. Some areas are handicapped accessible but inquire before setting off.

The Forum

The Forum tempts the imagination with incredible Imperial Roman ruins.

The Roman Forum was the heart of the ancient city and the ruins are spectacular. Some of the highlights include the Arch of Titus (through which most visitors enter), the Temple of Saturn, and the Temple of Vesta. The Sacra Via, or sacred road, runs through the ancient site.

Uneven walkways and cobbled paths at the Forum call for comfortable shoes. Bring a hat and water– there’s no shade and no conveniences inside the gates.

Be aware that unlike the Colosseum, there are no facilities once you are in the Forum—no bathrooms, snack shops, water fountains or souvenir vendors inside the gates. Beware of pickpockets and “for hire” guides at both the Colosseum and the Forum. The latter often dupe visitors into thinking they must buy a guided tour to get inside, which is not true.

Visitors take a walk through ancient history on original Roman roads. Most significant sites are signed in English and Italian but a guidebook will be handy here.

All that walking gave us an appetite. We had a good lunch across from the Colosseum at Angelino ai Fori dal 1947 at Largo Ricci #40, 06.6791121. We expected high prices and mediocre food since it’s so close to several major tourist sites but were pleasantly surprised by both the food and the prices.

We enjoyed a delicious lunch on the patio at Angelino ai Fori.

If you are prepared for a short journey, take a trip to Ostia Antica. Ancient Ostia was once a bustling seaside town built on the Tiber River where it enters the Mediterranean Sea, but now, 2,000 years later, it is four kilometers from the water. We found the ancient site even more interesting than the Forum and far less crowded. We enjoyed a picnic here one fine afternoon and learned, once we had secured a knowledgeable guide of the area, that we’d had our lunch seated on a burial site. There are spectacular ruins of baths, a theater, apartment houses (some with painting still intact), mosaics, and much more to see in the excavations of this once fortified city.

These are just a few of the astounding archeological treasures found nowhere else but Rome. Put on your walking shoes and go explore this ancient and vibrant city.

PS If you’re looking for restaurant recommendations near the historic center or want to know where to go for gelato, reach out!

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California’s High Desert Hidden Gems: Noah Purifoy’s Outdoor Desert Museum

I first learned about Noah Purifoy’s wondrous Outdoor Desert Museum while planning a trip to Joshua Tree National Park during the COVID pandemic. Museums, and most cultural outlets, were closed in Southern California where I live, and pretty much everywhere else, too. When I learned about an outdoor museum close to the town of Joshua Tree, I knew we had to go!

*Welcome to Noah Purifoy’s Outdoor Desert Museum of Assemblage Sculpture.*

After spending most of the day hiking in the strange but beautiful Joshua Tree National Park, we headed out for a look at another high desert gem—Noah Purifoy’s Outdoor Desert Museum of Assemblage Art. We drove through the small town of Joshua Tree, into the scrubby desert landscape, past large lots and small houses–more than a few surrounded by chain link fences. In this part of Southern California, pick-up trucks are far more popular than Porsches.

*The high desert landscape is the perfect setting for Mr. Purifoy’s assemblage art. Shipwrecked is in the foreground with White House to the left.*

Up and down the lonely roads we drove until our turn- off onto an unpaved road that ended in a dirt lot. A triumphal arch of tires spelling out W-E-L-C-O-M-E in a non- conformist way, let us know we had arrived.

*Please don’t jump on the Band Wagon, 1995. Tempting as it is, visitors are asked to refrain from touching or climbing on the sculptures.*

*Bowling balls play a starring role in a number of Mr. Purifoy’s sculptures.*

*Found materials of all kinds make up the monumental sculpture in the Outdoor Desert Museum, as in this work called Aurora Borealis.*

I have been fascinated by assemblage art for a long time. Created from found materials, assemblage art personifies the old saying, “One man’s trash is another’s treasure,” and shows how a creative mind can make something provocative, beautiful, and meaningful from goods that might otherwise have been tossed on the trash heap. Noah Purifoy’s Outdoor Desert Museum of Assemblage Sculpture is the embodiment of that.

*1996 Toilet Bowl Sculpture is just one of the 30 inventive and monumental assemblage sculptures on the 10-acre art site.*

Too often, we find ourselves exploring these out-of-the-way places alone. We were happy to see others here experiencing these amazing art installations.

*Purifoy’s work can be poignant and provocative. This piece is called White/Colored.*

*Homelessness and shelter are among the social themes Purifoy explores in his work.*

A renowned assemblage artist, Noah Purifoy first came to national attention with sculpture he created using burnt debris from the 1965 Watts Riots in Los Angeles. His work was part of 66 Signs of Neon, a landmark group exhibition that traveled across America and abroad from 1966- 1971.

*Prominently positioned, The White House includes plumbing ware and bowling balls. It took Purifoy three years to create.*

*Free brochures lead visitors on a self-guided tour of the 10-acre site. Docent-led visits for groups can be arranged through the Noah Purifoy Foundation.*

Purifoy was the founder and first director of the Watts Tower Art Center and was later appointed to the California Arts Council, a position he held for more than a decade. His work there included bringing art into California’s State Prison system under the Artists in Social Institutions program he initiated.

*This piece, called Kirby Express, was created from old Kirby vacuum cleaners and bicycle parts among other things.*

*Here’s Kirby Express from a different vantage point with Shipwrecked and Carousel to the left.*

*No Contest (Bicycles) is dwarfed by a Joshua Tree, the area’s namesake desert plant.*

Long a fixture on LA’s art scene, Purifoy, who was born in Alabama in 1917, moved to Joshua Tree in California’s high desert in 1989. He began populating his 10-acre sculpture park with works of all shapes and sizes using materials ranging from discarded toilets to tires and just about everything in between. Industrial materials, clothing, wood, metal, rubber, concrete and old appliances all found their way into Purifoy’s art.

*From the Point of View of the Little People, 1994.*

*Abstract, whimsical, inventive and thought provoking, Purifoy’s works are best experienced by a visit to his amazing desert museum.*

*Piles of old chairs became art in Purifoy’s wildly creative hands.*

From 1989 until his death in 2004, Purifoy worked to create a public art space that continues to attract visitors from across the country and around the world. Admission to the sculpture park is free but donations are welcome. The Outdoor Desert Museum is open daily.

*The Gas Station conveys a certain attitude. The White House is to the left.*

*Admission is free but donations are welcome.*

Purifoy’s work can be seen at the Whitney Museum of American Art in New York, Los Angeles County Museum of Art, National Gallery of Art in Washington, DC, as well as other prestigious art institutions here and abroad. These eminent museums have long since reopened their doors, but visitors to Southern California may well want to head to the high desert to experience Purifoy’s final and very impressive body of work. Visit the Noah Purifoy Foundation for more information.

Sunnylands— A Midcentury Masterpiece

As a regular visitor to the Palm Desert area, I often wondered what was behind the big pink walls where Bob Hope and Frank Sinatra Drives intersect in Rancho Mirage. During Modernism Week I found out. Among the more than 350 events and activities offered during the 10-day tribute to Midcentury Modernism were tours of Sunnylands, the marvelous estate built by media mogul and philanthropist Walter Annenberg and his second wife, Lee.

The glass and Mexican lava rock midcentury marvel built by Walter and Lee Annenberg was conceived as a family home and high-level retreat for world leaders and luminaries from the arts, media and industry. Photo courtesy Annenberg Foundation Trust at Sunnylands.

Conceived as both a family home to escape winters in Wynnewood, PA, where the couple maintained their permanent residence, and an intimate, high-level retreat where leaders of government and industry could meet privately to address national and global concerns, Sunnylands has successfully filled both roles since it was completed in 1966.

The centerpiece of the 200-acre estate is a fabulous glass and Mexican lava rock 25,000- square-foot midcentury home designed by architect A. Quincy Jones. It’s hard not to “ooh and aah” when the front door of the historic main house opens onto the spectacular great room with its pink marble floors, prolific planting, outstanding art collection (Rodin’s Eve surrounded by 300 pink bromeliads will be one of the first things you’ll see in the central atrium), exquisite furnishings, and panoramic desert views.

*Art Price’s **Birds of Welcome**, a favorite of the Annenbergs, greets visitors to Sunnylands.*

Visitors on the 90-minute Historic House Tour, which is the only way to visit the home, learn all about the property and the people who designed, built, lived in and stayed at this wonderful estate. You’ll visit all of the rooms in the house including my personal favorite–the Room of Memories. It’s chock full of memorabilia marking momentous occasions, Christmas cards and thank you letters—some from British royalty, photos, portraits, and family mementos.

The Room of Memories has photos, portraits, letters, memorabilia, mementos and more documenting decades of visits to Sunnylands from famous guests and the historic role the house has played in U.S. history. Photo courtesy Annenberg Foundation Trust at Sunnylands.

The color-themed guest rooms (hint-Mrs. Annenberg’s favorite colors were yellow, pink and green), stunning dining room, cozy game room, and the kitchen, where visitors will get a peek at the incredible china collection the Annenbergs used to host dinners large and small, are all on the tour. Visitors also have access to the Annenberg’s private quarters, which were modified somewhat by Mrs. Annenberg after her husband’s death in 2002 at the age of 94.

*Comfortable guest rooms were color-themed and included Mrs. Annenberg’s favorites– yellow, green and pink. Photo courtesy Annenberg Foundation Trust at Sunnylands.*

You’ll also see the Inwood Room, redesigned from its original purpose as a patio, to hold many of the antiques Mrs. Annenberg brought to Sunnylands after closing their Pennsylvania home, Inwood. She wanted a place that reminded her of her home in the East.

The Annenbergs, known for their support of the arts, filled Sunnylands with masterpieces by artists including Picasso, Degas, Van Gogh, Cezanne, Monet, Renoir, Matisse, Rodin, Giacometti and Braque. Some of the paintings now on the walls are high-quality reproductions. Mr. Annenberg donated many of the original works to the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, where he was a trustee for many years.

*This Kwakiutl totem pole was commissioned by the Annenbergs and is located on the estate’s private nine-hole golf course.*

The grounds include a tennis court, private nine- hole golf course and no less than 11 lakes. Now operated by the Annenberg Foundation Trust, the estate has expanded to include 15 additional acres for the Sunnylands Center and Gardens, which opened in 2012. That’s the same year the property became accessible to the public.

While Sunnylands served as the winter home of the Annenbergs, it was also designed to function as a private and intimate retreat for luminaries and world leaders. The guest list is as impressive as the property. Eight U.S. Presidents were among the notable visitors the Annenbergs welcomed to Sunnylands. Dwight Eisenhower, an avid golfer, was the first U.S. President to enjoy a round on the estate’s private course with Walter Annenberg.

President and Mrs. Reagan were good friends of the Annenbergs and frequent visitors to Sunnylands. Mr. Reagan was one of eight U.S. Presidents to have enjoyed their hospitality. Photo courtesy Annenberg Foundation Trust at Sunnylands.

Ronald Reagan, a good friend of the Annenbergs, was a frequent guest as President, and earlier, when he served as Governor of California. Along with his wife Nancy, a dear friend of Leonore “Lee” Annenberg, the Reagans were a fixture at the Sunnylands New Year’s Eve party for many years. Mr. Reagan held cabinet meetings and invited his top advisors to the estate. President Reagan’s treat of choice– Jelly Belly® jellybeans are still available in his favorite guest room. No detail that could add to a guest’s pleasure was too small to include at Sunnylands. Fun fact—the jellybeans are color-coordinated to match the bedding and upholstery!

*The Yellow Room was President Reagan’s favorite. Jellybeans were always on hand–color coordinated to match the room, of course. Photo courtesy Annenberg Foundation Trust at Sunnylands.*

Richard Nixon, who was also a long-time friend of the couple and another frequent guest before, during and after his presidency, spent a number of months in seclusion at the estate after his resignation. His poignant thank you note is on display in the house.

George H.W. Bush held the only State dinner ever hosted outside the White House at Sunnylands for Prime Minister Kaifu of Japan in 1990. They were able to negotiate some difficult trade issues in the relaxed setting Sunnylands provided. President Bush also enjoyed fishing at the estate and preferred the Green Room for its proximity to the lake for early morning angling.

*President George H.W. Bush enjoyed early morning fishing in some of the 11 lakes on property at Sunnylands.*

Presidents Gerald Ford, George W. Bush and Bill Clinton all enjoyed the Annenberg’s hospitality at Sunnylands. President Obama was a three-time visitor, meeting with Chinese President Xi Jinping on one occasion and Jordan’s King Abdullah II on another. He also held a summit with 10 Association of Southeast Asian Nations leaders at the estate, which resulted in the “Sunnylands Declaration.”

Appointed by President Reagan, Walter Annenberg served as U.S. Ambassador to the Court of St. James and was awarded an Honorary Knightship (KBE) so it’s no surprise that Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip, Prince Charles, and other members of the British Royal Family were visitors to Sunnylands.

Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip, shown here with Ambassador and Mrs. Annenberg, were guests at Sunnylands, along with other members of the Royal Family. Photo courtesy Annenberg Foundation Trust at Sunnylands.

U.S. Supreme Court Justices Sandra Day O’Connor and Anthony Kennedy, Secretary of State George Shultz, British Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher, Henry Kissinger, Barbara Walters, Colin Powell, Steve Forbes and other highly influential people from government, industry, media and the arts have all been feted at Sunnylands.

It hasn’t been all problem solving and high- level meetings at the estate though. Frank Sinatra wed his wife Barbara at Sunnylands and the couple were frequent guests at festivities there, including the social event of the year—the Annenberg’s annual New Year’s Eve party. Hollywood icons like Bob Hope, Bing Crosby, Kirk Douglas, Gregory Peck and Ginger Rogers have all been on the guest list. Photos capturing the Annenbergs and their famous friends at play are on display throughout the home.

The historic main house can be visited only by guided tour, which must be booked online, typically one month in advance. Because access is limited, the Historic House Tour slots fill quickly. Plan ahead! This is the only tour that provides access to the home. Groups of seven are shuttled from the Visitor Center to the house for the 90-minute tour, which includes standing and walking—there is no sitting down and children under 10 are not permitted. Knowledgeable guides, many from local colleges, accompany visitors through the home and around the lushly landscaped exterior areas adjacent to the house.

There is a separate tour available for the grounds without prior reservations. The Open Air Experience is a 45-minute trip aboard an electric shuttle around the exquisite estate with visits to various outdoor locations such as the private golf course where visitors can see a Kwakiutl totem pole built especially for the Annenbergs, the Chinese Pavilion where Mrs. Annenberg entertained lunch guests, the Annenbergs’ final resting place, sculpture including Birds of Welcome by Art Price, and much more. The Foundation’s commitment to sustainability and the steps being taken to preserve and protect plant and wildlife species on the grounds are also discussed during the visit. The Open Air Experience can be booked on a first come-first served basis during a visit to the Sunnylands Center and Gardens and unlike the other tours, does not require prior reservations.

Birding tours on the Estate are also available and must be booked online, in advance. An experienced birder leads the 90-minute excursion and all levels are welcome to participate.

There is no admission fee for the Sunnylands Center and Gardens, which opened in 2012 and is family-friendly. Inside the glass-walled building guests can enjoy a short film that tells the history of the estate and the Annenbergs. This is well worth viewing before visiting the house or in lieu of, if you haven’t been fortunate enough to reserve space on a tour. There are art and photo exhibitions, historic photos, and memorabilia on display.

There’s also a gift shop and a small café for a casual lunch or snack, which can be enjoyed indoors or outside at the tables overlooking the garden. On a recent visit, families were playing games and picnicking on the garden’s central grassy grounds.

The expansive gardens include a labyrinth for peaceful mediation, meandering paths, reflection pools and more than 70 species of native plant life. The native and drought-resistant plants used in the landscape are clearly marked for the enjoyment of amateur botanists.

Tours are not conducted while retreats and meetings are taking place on the property. No photos are allowed inside the house due to security concerns. The Annenberg Foundation graciously provided the interior photos I’ve included here. Sunnylands is not open during summer months. Please visit their website for current tour dates and ticket information.

Into the Woods –Bomarzo’s Monster Park

We made our way to Bomarzo’s Monster Park on a beautiful autumn day, early enough that the morning fog still hung over the woods adding a decidedly forbidding atmosphere to the place.

With its strange and beautiful sculptures, eerie wooded pathways and vertigo-inducing tipsy house, I wondered for a moment if Lewis Carroll had taken inspiration from Bomarzo for his Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland.

*The dragon symbolizes time and wisdom, rather than destruction. At Bomarzo, the dragon fights a dog, lion and wolf representing spring, summer and winter.*

While appearing completely contemporary, this unconventional garden near Viterbo, Italy was commissioned by Prince Pier Francesco “Vicino” Orsini in 1552. Known for their balance, order and harmony, classical 16^th century Italian gardens with their careful geometric designs and extravagant water features seemed to celebrate man’s control over nature. Not so, the wild and woodsy Bomarzo.

*Bomarzo’s winding, woodsy paths are full of surprises.*

*The giant jaws of the whale warn visitors away from the water.*

Created by architect Pirro Ligorio in the Mannerist style, this garden is almost a rebellion against order and a tribute to life’s unpredictability. That’s what makes it so much fun to visit.

*Proteus, Neptune’s son, comes from the legend of Glauco, a fisherman who became a sea god.*

Instead of being adjacent to or surrounding the owner’s villa like most gardens of the period, this one flourishes in a nearby wood, nearly hidden from view from the palace above.

*Il Sacro Bosco, the Sacred Wood, is the opposite of the well-ordered classical 16th century Italian garden.*

There is no rhyme or reason to this garden. There doesn’t seem to be a relationship between the sculptures and their placement in the park, though that could have everything to do with the fact that they were all carved from gigantic rocks where the stone stood.

*Statues were carved on-site from stones where they stood.*

Il Sacro Bosco or the Sacred Wood, as the Monster Park is also known, is home to mermaids, sphinx, dragons, nymphs, fountains, a giant tortoise, and a heroic Hercules, among other fantastical sculptures.

*The tortoise symbolizes the feminine powers of water and ancient knowledge.*

Originally the sculptures would have been painted in bright colors. None of that remains today though some pieces are covered in downy green moss. I was slightly disappointed to see the tortoise had recently had her nice coat of soft green moss removed, though she was still a striking figure.

*An elephant carrying a castle was a popular medieval symbol and reference to Hannibal’s use of elephants to invade the Italian peninsula.*

*This elephant, holding a wounded or dead soldier, represents Rome’s victories and defeats.*

Many of the Bomarzo’s sculptures have historical, religious and cultural significance. Some are meant to be puns or puzzles. Others may have had meanings which have long been lost over the nearly 500 years since the garden was created. The brochure we received with our tickets gave explanations for all of the 35 key sculptures, as well as serving as a guide through the park.

*The sleeping nymph, which represents purity in Greek mythology, is both human and divine.*

The Ogre, or L’Orco, king of the underworld, is at the center of the garden and one of the most popular sculptures at Bomarzo. I found a photo of surrealist artist Salvador Dali sitting in the “Mouth of Hell” in 1938! He was so inspired by the Monster Park that he made a short film about the gardens.

*A school group posed in front of the giant sculpture amid much jostling and laughter, clearly enjoying the monsters and whimsical creatures throughout the park.*

The inscription above the entrance says, “Abandon all thought,” a reference, and maybe a tribute, to Dante Alighiere’s Divine Comedy- Inferno, where a warning above the Gates of Hell reads, “Abandon all hope, ye who enter here.” Don’t be put off. Inside the mouth, visitors will find cool respite and a small built- in table and seats. It’s a perfect place for contemplation and perhaps a picnic.

*Just try to walk around inside the Leaning House without losing your balance!*

Another popular stop, the Leaning House doesn’t seem so disorienting until you get inside and try to explore the rooms. There’s not much to see other than the family crest and motto. It is a vertiginous experience at best and not a place to linger—purposefully, scholars think. Some believe that the house represents the falling fortunes of the Orsini family, but nearly 500 years on, the house still stands!

*Proserpina welcomes visitors to the hippodrome area.*

Hiding around every corner or peeking through the trees are heroic and monumental figures. Proserpina, wife of Pluto, stands in for Diana and Juno greeting visitors with open arms. An enormous Hercules—a protector of good, is shown subduing the evil Caucus. Ceres appears with her circle of babies.

*Hercules, protecting the poor, vanquishes Caucus, who stole food from them.*

Neptune towers over the basin, while the open jaws of a whale warn visitors away from the water. Nearby, a giant nymph is both human and divine– a reference to the sleeping Ariadne. There are Furies, a pegasus, dolphins, lions and other mythical and magical creatures throughout the garden.

*The Winged Fury is of Greek origin and also played an important role in Roman religion. The Furies were considered guardians of national glory and the fertility of the soil.*

There are large vases with inscriptions no longer decipherable, benches with messages in Latin, and much more that will surprise and delight around every turn.

*Some of the benches have Latin inscriptions.*

*Scholars think this sculpture represents Bacchus’s descent into hell, goblet in hand. Medusa’s head is carved into the bottom of the giant vase.*

Il Sacro Bosco was created as a memorial to Prince Orsini’s late wife, Guilia Farnese, of the wealthy Farnese family. Their money helped fund the garden, which her broken- hearted husband intended as a manifestation of his grief and a place of shock and surprise.

*Il Sacro Bosco was created as a tribute to Orsini’s late wife, Guilia Farnese.*

A Pegasus in the garden represents Orsini’s in-laws– the Farnese family. The Temple of Eternity was built 20 years after the original garden as a memorial to Guilia and was designed with roses associated with the Orsini family.

*Wander as you like, but if you follow the suggested trail in the park’s brochure you’ll see all of the key sculptures and sights in this fascinating garden.*

Visitors are welcome to wander freely through the paths, but following the trail outlined on the brochure’s itinerary will ensure that you won’t miss a single one of the extraordinary sculptures and sights waiting in the Sacred Wood at Bomarzo. While the traditional gardens of the period we visited– including Villa Farnese, Villa Lante and Villa D’Este–are stunning, Bomarzo is absolutely fascinating. We’ve never experienced anyplace like it!

Seeking Serenity at Portland’s Spectacular Japanese Garden

Gorgeous grounds, stunning views and an authentic Japanese experience have been delighting visitors to Portland’s spectacular Japanese Garden since 1963. Now, the beautiful 12-acre oasis, which includes five separate gardens with plenty of peaceful seating areas for reflection, a Japanese Tea House, tranquil ponds, and meandering paths perfect for contemplation, has even more to offer. Last month the new $33.5 million Cultural Crossing opened to visitors.

Follow the footpaths, steps and bridges that lead to each of the separate and distinctive garden spaces within Portland’s Japanese Garden.

The new $33.5 million Cultural Crossings expansion project includes new exhibition space, library, tea house and additional garden areas, all designed to enhance the authentic Japanese experience for visitors.

Designed by respected architect Kengo Kuma, the Cultural Crossing’s new buildings provide the perfect showcase for traditional Japanese arts and culture and serve as a venue for family-friendly activities and interesting demonstrations. An already popular attraction is even more appealing with the new expansion project. No wonder the lines for tickets are long. Purchase tickets online and check-in at the membership desk, exchange your voucher for a ticket there, and avoid the serpentine lines that are sure to continue for some time.

Minutes away from Portland’s busy streets, the Portland Japanese Garden is an oasis of tranquility.

Many visitors take the complimentary shuttle up to the gardens and walk back down to the parking area along the paved pathways.

Visitors can either take a complimentary shuttle bus or walk up the pathway to the open and airy Japanese Arts Learning Center–the heart of the new project with performance space, library and classroom.

Young visitors take a break on the steps inside the new Jordan Schnitzer Japanese Arts Learning Center.

The ground level Tanabe Gallery currently hosts an exhibition of ceramics, calligraphy, and sculpture by former Japanese Prime Minister Hosokawa Morihiro.

A delightful display of ceramics, calligraphy, and sculpture by former Japanese Prime Minister Hosokawa Morihiro are currently on exhibit in the Tanabe Gallery and Pavilion Gallery.

The expansive display, Hosokawa Morihiro: The Art of Life, a Rebirth in Clay, continues in the Pavilion Gallery, which also includes a portable teahouse. Two additional “Art in the Garden” showcases, one featuring Kabuki costumes and the other, Noh masks and costumes, are scheduled for later in the year. The Japanese Garden will host related events and activities associated with both.

A portable tea house with the implements needed to perform a classic Japanese tea ceremony are part of the current exhibition. Noh masks and costumes and Kabuki costumes will be featured in the galleries later this year.

Now, to explore these magnificent gardens! The Strolling Pond Garden was our first stop, after a visit to the Learning Center and Gallery. Visitors can walk across the “iconic Moon Bridge” over the Upper Pond and enjoy the views.

Stroll the “Zig-Zag Bridge” over the Lower Pond which is surrounded by iris. It had not quite bloomed at the time of our visit, but was close. The aptly named Heavenly Falls provide the perfect backdrop to the Lower Pond and were a popular “selfie stop.”

The Heavenly Falls provide the perfect backdrop for contemplation or photo opps.

Follow the rough stepping stones along a lantern- lined path through the beautiful Japanese Tea Garden to the authentic Kashintei Tea House. Typically, the tea garden is a place to appreciate nature’s beauty and “the art of living in harmony” while leaving the cares of the world behind. This is certainly the case at the Portland Japanese Garden—it is so serene it’s easy to forget you are mere minutes from busy city streets.

Visitors are invited to leave their worldly cares behind when they explore the authentic tea garden and Kashintei Tea House.

The Kashintei Tea House, which is where tea demonstrations and related events are held, was brought to Portland from Japan and reassembled here.

Contact the Japanese Garden to learn when tea demonstrations and other events are scheduled for the Kashintei Tea House.

The Portland Japanese Garden has a lovely Sand and Stone Garden, created by Professor Takuma Tono, the Garden’s chief designer in the 1960s. These “dry landscape” gardens are sometimes called “Zen Gardens” because they are often found at Zen monasteries and are meant to invite quiet contemplation. The Sand and Stone Garden here illustrates an important Japanese concept—“the beauty of blank space.”

Enjoy your moments of Zen at the Sand and Stone Garden.

Recent additions to Portland’s Japanese Garden include the Natural Garden, which features local plants not typically associated with Japanese gardens and depicts seasonal change.

The cherry blossoms were in full bloom during our recent visit to Portland’s Japanese Garden.

The small courtyard garden (Tsubo-Niwa) and the Ellie M. Hill Bonsai Terrace are both new and located near the Tateuchi Courtyard in the Cultural Village.

Visitors are treated to an exquisite display of bonsai at the new Ellie M.Hill Bonsai Terrace.

The Flat Garden, which highlights each of the four seasons with specific plantings and trees is popular with visitors. The weeping cherry tree on the left represents spring while a 100- year old maple depicts autumn.

The Flat Garden is meant to be viewed from a single angle either from inside a home, where the door or window serves as a frame, or from a verandah, as these visitors are doing.

The gravel stands in for water, signifying summer in the Flat Garden.

After you’ve finished strolling around the gorgeous gardens and interesting exhibitions, stop in and sample the fare at the new Umami Café. During our visit, just a week after the April 2 reopening, the café was not yet serving food but was offering complimentary samples of four delicious teas from Tokyo-based Jugetsudo Tea Company. (Update– Light snacks and sweets were available on subsequent visits.)

Stop in the new Umami Cafe for a restorative cup of tea and authentic Japanese sweets and snacks.

During our visit, guests were offered four different and delicious teas as part of a complimentary tea tasting.

When His Excellency Nobuo Matsunaga, the former Ambassador of Japan to the United States, visited the Portland Japanese Garden, he proclaimed it “the most beautiful and authentic Japanese garden in the world outside of Japan,” according to the organization.

Tranquil settings such as this one near the Upper Pond, have been drawing visitors since 1963.

They currently report more than 350,000 visitors annually, a number that will surely grow with the addition of the new Cultural Crossroads expansion. Be sure to add this spectacularly beautiful and serene spot to your Portland itinerary. For updated information on tickets, events and hours click here.

Napa Valley Winery Visits and our First Stop- B Cellars

Gone are the days when it was possible to drive up and down Route 29 or the Silverado Trail and pop into wineries for complimentary tastings. Though there are plenty of wineries that are open to all during posted hours, many are open for tours and tastings by appointment only. Most now require reservations due to the Covid-19 crisis. It is also rare to find a winery that offers complimentary tastings. Buses, and even limos, are discouraged at most wineries these days, too. We think these are all positive changes and if you’ve ever seen large, loud groups who’ve clearly been doing more drinking than “tasting” you’ll probably agree.

B Cellar’s owners preserved many of the older oak trees on the property when they built the new winery facility.

The Napa Valley has nearly 500 wineries with tasting rooms so to make the most of your trip, it’s important to do some homework. Look at a map of the Napa Valley and find where your favorite wineries’ tasting rooms are located because sometimes they are not where the wine is actually made. You won’t want to waste time driving up and down the Valley backtracking, so plan your itinerary with location in mind. Our rule of thumb is no more than three winery visits a day and only two if the tours and tastings are very extensive. Do some research and contact your favorite wineries to see what they offer and reserve accordingly. Many offer a range of “experiences.”

When walk-in visits were allowed and most people just turned up, by booking a visit you’d frequently get to taste special bottles and have the chance to really learn about a particular winery and its wine maker. You’d also avoid the crowded tasting room experience, though the current public health crisis limits the number of people allowed at wineries.

B Cellars open demonstration kitchen.

On our last visit to Napa Valley we began with a trip to B Cellars in Oakville. We had first visited them back in 2014, when the winery was being built and our tasting took place in a construction trailer. The wines were spectacular then too, but now the setting befits the wine! The Hospitality House, with several tasting areas inside and out, is situated on gorgeous, expansive grounds and includes a demonstration kitchen, a culinary garden, chicken coop, wine production facilities, wine cave and event space.

The grounds are populated by Seward Johnson’s lifelike sculptures of people involved in daily tasks like shopping, gardening and just relaxing.

The winery, which was founded in 2003 by Duffy Keys and Jim Borsack, with the highly respected Kirk Venge as winemaker, offers several tasting experiences. Most take about 90 minutes. Since we would be coming right after lunch, we chose the Sojourn, which included B Cellars Flagship wines and several delicious local cheeses.

We were greeted with a taste of the 2013 Juliana Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc, which we enjoyed on the expansive terrace. We moved over to an umbrella- shaded table and began our tasting in earnest with a 2012 Dutton Ranch Chardonnay.

The Hospitality House has tasting areas inside and out.

Red wines we tasted included the 2013 Manzana Vineyard Pinot Noir, a 2009 Blend 24, and 2012 Ehrlich Cabernet Sauvignon. Our delightful and knowledgeable wine host Alex also poured us several wines not typically included on the Sojourn tasting including a 2012 Blend 26.

Our knowledgeable wine host Alex.

The wine cellar has plenty of private event space.

After our tasting we elected to tour the grounds and wine cave with Alex—a lovely and memorable afternoon at B Cellars and a great place to begin our Napa Valley wine adventure.

Note– I have updated this post to reflect the need for reservations during the current coronavirus crisis. Please check with individual wineries for details and requirements.

Outdoor Art at Seattle’s Olympic Sculpture Park

After a beautiful morning at Chihuly Garden and Glass and lunch at Seattle Central Armory’s Skillet Counter, we headed down to the Olympic Sculpture Park, part of the Seattle Art Museum. On the way we passed a Duckload of friendly tourists.

Seattle’s Duck Tour is one way to see the sights in the Emerald City.

We enjoyed the view of snowcapped Mt. Ranier in the distance and the cruise ships docked nearby.

Seattle is a popular jumping off point for Alaskan cruises.

And finally reached our destination– the Olympic Sculpture Park.

All are welcome at Seattle’s Olympic Sculpture Park. Admission is free.

Jaume Plensa’s 46- foot Echo, towers over visitors with her eyes closed to the sea beyond.

This beautiful urban art park was once an industrial site. Now, less than 10 years later, the nine acres on Elliott Bay is Seattle’s largest downtown green space and home to spectacular sculpture by some of the most influential and respected artists in the world including Richard Serra, Ellsworth Kelly, Alexander Calder, and Louise Nevelson.

A view of Richard Serra’s Wake.

It’s an entirely different visual experience to wander among the panels of Wake.

Alexander Calder’s The Eagle provides a brilliant pop of color and a shady place to rest.

Typewriter Eraser by Claes Oldenburg and Coosje van Bruggen must add a touch of whimsy to the daily commute.

With views toward the Olympic Mountains and Puget Sound, thought provoking and attention getting art, and its beautiful waterfront location, the award-winning Olympic Sculpture Park ought to be on your list of “must sees” in Seattle.

Cargo ships glide by Bunyon’s Chess by Mark di Suvero.

Puget Sound makes a beautiful backdrop for these sculptures.

di Suvero’s Schubert Sonata has a prime location.

The nine-acre sculpture park has lovely wooded paths to explore.

The Olympic Sculpture Park is pedestrian and bicycle friendly, handicapped accessible, and admission is free.

Roy McMakin’s Love and Loss was commissioned for the Olympic Sculpture Park.

Beverly Pepper’s Perre’s Ventaglio III is right at home among the vegetation.

What a fantastic place to spend a beautiful day in Seattle! Next, dinner decisions, The Frye and we take flight to Boeing Field–a visit to the Museum of Flight.

Note: Banner image is Louise Bourgeois’s Father and Son. Each figure is in turn concealed and revealed by the water in which they stand, separated, arms outstretched.

Art Oasis- Faye Sarkowsky Sculpture Garden

Art and nature lovers share a common destination– the Faye Sarkowsky Sculpture Garden in Palm Desert. The stunning sculpture garden is located within the Eric Johnson Memorial Gardens and is part of the Palm Springs Art Museum in Palm Desert. Contemporary sculptures are installed among the four beautifully landscaped acres that surround The Galen, the museum’s LEED-certified building.

Felipe Casteneda’s Seated Thinking Woman

Walks Among Stars by Dave McGary

This welcoming garden, which is open to visitors all year long, includes soothing water features, winding walkways, beautiful native plants and plenty of quiet nooks for contemplation. As you stroll along the pathways it’s easy to forget that this lovely oasis of art and nature is located off a busy street between sprawling shopping malls.

Blue glass in the pavement paths through the garden replicate a winding river. The pavilion is used for concerts and events.

The contemporary sculptures on display include works by international artists such as Felipe Casteneda, Gio Pomodoro, Betty Gold, Dan Namingha, Donald Judd, Yehiel Shemi and Dave McGary. Downloadable self-guided tour information is available on the museum’s website. Admission to the garden is free.

Barry Flanagan’s Acrobats

Peter Reginato’s Midnight and Morning Rain…Waiting for Miro

The Faye Sarkowsky Sculpture Garden is also used for concerts and events. For complete and updated event information contact the Palm Springs Art Museum.

Go to The Galen-The Palm Springs Art Museum in Palm Desert

UPDATE: THE GALEN IS PERMANENTLY CLOSED!

Go ahead. Put down your golf clubs, get up from that poolside chaise and go to The Galen. Open since 2012, The Palm Springs Art Museum in Palm Desert is housed in an 8,400 sq. ft., LEED- certified building called The Galen and features photography, sculpture, painting and new media exhibitions, at no charge.

Bob Hope, Frank Sinatra and Gerald Ford may have streets named after them in this affluent desert community, but it’s Lucille Ball who’ll welcome you to the marvelous Personalities: Fantasy and Identity in Photography and New Media exhibition now on display through May 3, 2015 at The Galen.

Morning by Yehiel Shemi is part of the museum’s Faye Sarkowsky Sculpture Garden.

A gorgeous, nearly life- sized photograph of America’s favorite red head, “Lucille Ball, Lover Come Back” by Ray Jones, leads the way into a fascinating exploration of the photographic portrait from early daguerreotypes, circa 1851 and 1860, to a 2013 video portrait by Brian Bress created during the artist’s residency at the MACRO in Rome. Bress’s work, titled “The White and the Yellow Hunter,” is revealed, and then just as quickly, hidden, from the viewer.

Unfortunately, no photography was permitted in the galleries so I will have to tell, instead of show, what I saw.

In addition to Lucille Ball, notables whose images grace the galleries include: Marilyn Monroe, Marlene Dietrich, Bette Davis, Steve McQueen, Francis Bacon and Salvador Dali. Works by Diane Arbus, Richard Avedon, Harry Callahan, Weegee (Arthur Fellig), Robert Mapplethorpe and other photographers, some better known than others, are included in the exhibition.

LWS-105-2, LWS 95-4 and LWS 237-7 are part of a series of photos taken over a 30-year time period by Milton Rogovin, a retired optometrist. Dr. Rogovin began photographing people and places, some year after year, in Buffalo’s down and out Lower West Side, when he was 62 years old. He completed the project when he was 92.

Among the images I found most striking was one of a hyena handler (that there were such people was a bit of a revelation) called, “Abudullah Mohammed with Mainasara.” The photo was taken in Ogre Remo, Nigeria by Pieter Hugo and is part of his series The Hyena and Other Men. Ike Ude’s “Sartorial Anarchy #5,” Andrew Bush’s “Deerheadman,” and Jono Rotman’s image of the tattooed countenance, “Denimz Rogue,” from his Mongrel Mob series, were other standouts.

Several videos are also on display, including one by Marina Abramovic titled “The Kitchen V- Carrying the Milk.” It’s a 12 minute and 43 second video of the performance artist holding a bowl of said beverage. Tony Oursler’s doll in a suitcase featuring a video- recorded face, with sound, called “Passage,” also drew quite a bit of attention.

The exhibition also provides the opportunity to walk on water, or at least walk on five underwater images of the artist, Wang Wei, in “1/30^th of a Second.” I enjoyed watching a school group gingerly step on the images, one by one, as the docent explained what they were seeing.

After you’ve enjoyed The Galen, step outside. The stunning four-acre Faye Sarkowsky Scupture Garden, also at no admittance charge, surrounds the museum. More on that later—with photos!

The Guggenheim Museum Bilbao

Mercado de la Ribera

Bilbao’s Cathedral and Church of San Anton

Beaux Art Museum

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