Sicily

Puppets in Palermo—A Stopover in Sicily’s Biggest City

Welcome to Palermo.

We took a drive right up the center of Sicily on SS624 to reach Palermo. The ride is scenic, beautiful and pretty straightforward. As you approach, you’ll be greeted with breathtaking views of the city sprawl and the bay—bellissimo!

Palermo is Sicily’s capital city and it’s most populous. Its Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque architecture, cultural attractions, and incredible cuisine draw visitors from around the world.

Palermo is the largest and busiest city in Sicily and has plenty to offer the visitor looking for a bustling urban experience. We had less than two full days in Palermo and there is far more to see and do than we had time for.

The simple facade of Monreale Cathedral gives no indication of the superb golden mosaics inside this “must see” church.

Let your first stop in Palermo be a visit to Monreale Cathedral. This stunning cathedral has golden mosaics that rival, and some say surpass, those at Venice’s Basilica San Marco (St. Mark’s). This is truly a spectacular church, considered to be the finest example of Norman architecture in Sicily, and should not be missed. The somewhat plain façade belies the beauty that awaits inside.

The breathtaking golden mosaics inside Monreale Cathedral rival those at St. Mark’s (San Marco) Basilica in Venice.

Narrow, busy streets and overcrowding make parking a challenge in Palermo and the area surrounding the cathedral is no exception. There is a well-marked, supervised pay parking garage just down the road from the cathedral. Walk carefully along the alley- like street back up to the church.

The clear message here is: Do not park in front of this garage. Parking is always tricky in Palermo. When in doubt, find a pay lot.

After enjoying the splendor of the cathedral, we had a terrific lunch at Bricco e Bacco Brasserie, just kitty corner from the cathedral. It was a lovely place with good, local specialties and friendly service. Since we arrived after the lunch crowd, it was also quiet. You’ll find the restaurant at Via B. D’Aquisto, 13, Monreale, Phone for a reservation +39 091 641 7773. It’s a popular spot.

Driving in Palermo can be a harrowing experience and is not for the faint hearted.

Wind your way down into the city proper, navigating traffic carefully. All bets are off in Palermo and traffic can be heavy. Stop signs seem to be a mere suggestion and traffic signals are also sometimes ignored.

Farm fresh fruits and vegetables are sold at stands throughout the city. Be aware that in Sicily, what we call broccoli is cauliflower here.

Street markets like this one, selling clothing, dry goods, kitchen wares and other necessities can be found throughout Palermo. Ask for a “piccolo sconto”– a discount. Bargaining is part of the fun.

We really enjoyed walking all around the city to get the flavor of it and to get our bearings on our first visit. We covered a lot of ground, including the Corso Vittorio Emmanuel, which is Palermo’s “high street.” Here you’ll find upscale shops and stylish boutiques, cafes and bars. Palermo also has numerous street markets with household necessities, clothing and dry goods, fruit stands, and food stalls, including the well known Vucciria and Ballaro markets.

Hands down, our favorite cultural institution in Palermo was the Museo Internazionale delle Marrionette. Yes, it is a puppet museum and far more compelling than you might expect. Sicily has a strong tradition of puppetry used for both entertainment and political commentary dating back centuries.

In addition to providing entertainment, puppet shows were often used to express political and social view points, particularly when the literacy rate was low.

Plan to spend at least a few hours enjoying the expansive collection and exhibits at the International Museum of Puppetry.

The museum’s collection includes more than 3,000 puppets of all kinds from around the world.

Marionette soldiers in full armament along with their battle- ready horses are on display in this large gallery.

The attention to detail and historical accuracy of the costumes is impressive.

They have puppets and marionettes from around the world, from the simplest paper puppets to the most elaborate marionettes. You’ll see everything from fairy princesses and dragons to entire armies dressed in armament from throughout the ages, all with remarkable attention to detail.

Even Laurel and Hardy make an appearance here.

You’ll find examples of puppets from the primitive to the extraordinarily elaborate.

Puppets from around the world including Africa, Indonesia and Japan are represented.

There are also a variety of settings and backdrops on view. We found our visit to the marionette museum to be an absolutely enchanting experience. The museum hosts puppet shows, too, of course.

Enjoy these fine examples of Japanese Bunraku puppets.

The museum often hosts puppet shows and has videos of productions on view.

For more information and show times, please visit www.museomarionettepalermo.it The museum is at the end of Via Butera on the Piazzetta Antonio Pasqualina, 5.

Known for its medieval art collection, the Galleria Regionale della Sicilia at Palazza Abatellis is a former palatial residence dating back to the 1490s, which went on to become a convent and then a monastery. It is now a regional gallery and museum.

Built for the Kingdom of Sicily’s Port Master, this fine former residence now houses an impressive collection of Medieval art and other treasures.

Here you will find sculptures, frescoes and paintings by Italian artists, as well as Flemish and other European masters, sacred art, weaponry and more.

Sculpture, paintings, religious art and more await visitors at the Palazzo Abatellis.

Though the building suffered terrible damage during Allied bombing raids in WWII, frescoes such as these from the 1400s survived.

Unfortunately the website has not been updated for some time so it is best to call the museum at +39 091 623 0011. It is located at Via Allora, 4.

To see how the upper class lived centuries ago, visit the Palazzo Mirto www.casemuseoitalia.it/en. The Palazzo Mirto is part of a network of “house museums” found throughout Italy. It was originally built for the Filangeri family in the mid 17^th century and falls into the ancestry category of homes.

The Palazzo Mirto provides a glimpse at the opulence the upper classes enjoyed during the time of the Kingdom of Sicily.

The palazzo is filled with beautifully appointed rooms featuring elaborate furnishings, ceramics, antique musical instruments, and art. One of the most spectacular is the Chinese Room, likely decorated in 1876 when the house was renovated.

The Chinese Room was the height of fashion when it was designed in the mid 1800s.

There are also classic carriages on display along with other historic treasures that paint a picture of Sicilian life for the upper class in the days before the Risorgimento when Sicily was still a kingdom.

Splendid furnishings and elegant porcelain are among the items on display at Palazzo Mirto.

The museum is located at Via Merlo, 2 and telephone is +39 091 616 4751 for updated information.

Enjoy a performance or take a guided tour– these are the only ways to get inside the magnificent Teatro Massimo.

If there is a performance at the Teatro Massimo, get a ticket and go. Regularly scheduled dance, opera, and classical music are all performed here. If you’re feeling flush, you, too, can rent the royal box —you just have to purchase all 27 seats in it.

The Teatro Massimo is known for its excellent acoustics and grand stage.

If time does not permit you to attend a performance, take a guided tour, which is the only other way to see the inside of this magnificent and historic building.

This beautiful and historic theater is among the largest in Europe.

A model of the theater is displayed in the lobby.

The theater boasts one of the largest stages in Europe and is worth seeing. Built in 1897, it is known for its outstanding acoustics and is still the largest theater in Italy with 1,300 seats. It is appropriately located on the Piazza Verdi. +39 091 6053580 www.teatromassimo.it.

The Politeama Garabaldi Theater hosts regular performances in Palermo’s historic city center.

We wanted to visit the highly regarded National Archeological Museum but it was closed for renovations during our visit. Please go to www.regione.sicilia.it/beniculturali/salinas for current information.

A stroll through Sicily’s capital city yields surprises.

We did not visit the Catacombe dei Cappuccine, the home of about 8,000 dead bodies, amassed over the course of several hundred years, all dressed up and on display. We find the entire enterprise rather ghoulish and having seen the Capuccine Chapel in Rome, which features skeletons of dead monks, felt no obligation to see this seemingly far more ambitious enterprise. Apparently it is a popular place on many tourist itineraries and so we mention it here.

Flags fly outside the Porta Felice Hotel on the small but busy Via Butera.

There are lodgings at all price points and with all levels of service, as you would expect in a large city like Palermo. We stayed at Hotel Porta Felice www.hotelportafelice.it/en at Via Butera, 45. Tele. 091 6175678. This is in the old section of town near the port.

Pleasure craft and fishing boats crowd the marina at the end of Via Butera.

Even though the hotel is on what appears to be a small side street, it is pretty busy. We were upgraded to a nice suite, even though we’d booked through www.venere.com. The location was very convenient and we walked everywhere we wanted to go, after turning in our rental car.

Friendly service and excellent Sicilian specialties await diners at L’Ottava Nota.

We only had two nights in Palermo and wound up having dinner both evenings just down the street from our hotel at L’Ottava Nota Ristorante, via Butera 55 091 6168601 www.ristoranteottavanota.it. The restaurant was small and lovely with fantastic food and great service. The fish dishes were all spectacular. Everything was fresh, artfully prepared and delicious.

Perfectly prepared pasta makes a delicious first course.

White fish in a light curry broth was a favorite.

Seafood dishes were the star attraction for us, but L’Ottova Nota has superb meat and vegetable dishes, too.

A fish in a light curry broth with vegetables was so good I still think about it, though it is no longer on the menu. We mentioned we were staying at the Porta Felice and were happily surprised to learn we’d get a 20 percent discount on our meal because we were guests there. We cannot confirm that the special pricing is still available but it never hurts to ask, should you dine here. The restaurant is just a few doors down from Porte Felice on Via Butera, 55. The telephone is +39 091 616 8601.

We had an excellent lunch at Trattoria Piccolo Napoli, www.trattoriapiccolonapoli.it. Piccolo Napoli had been recommended by an Italian friend in the wine business but apparently Anthony Bourdain had once dined here and the owner told us that lots of Americans had been showing up ever since. Our welcome was much more cordial when we told him (in Italian) that his friend Sasha had sent us! Try the panisse (chick pea fritters) to start and have any seafood you like—it is all super fresh and simply, but deliciously, prepared.

Snack on some panisse as you peruse the menu.

Simply but perfectly prepared pastas and seafood dishes shine at Piccolo Napoli.

Through a small window into the kitchen, we watched the chef toss a whole octopus into a pot, plate it and serve it to a young girl who devoured every bit. We had pasta with shellfish and then I had a beautiful swordfish dish. For dessert, they brought us the ubiquitous “winter melon.” The melon is sweet and refreshing and so called winter melon because it can be picked in the summer and stored throughout the winter. We saw it on menus throughout Sicily. The restaurant is on the Piazzetta Mulino a Vento, 4. Telephone is +39 091 320431.

Palermo is a fascinating and vibrant city and certainly worth a visit. We’ll be back.

Our final meal in Palermo was an extremely casual, but excellent pizza lunch at the airport, which we enjoyed out on the observation deck with a view of planes coming and going, and of course, the beautiful sea!

Taormina’s Beach Clubs

Sicily boasts some of Europe’s most beautiful and pristine beaches, but since we live in San Diego, we usually don’t spend much, if any, time at the beach on our vacations– Hawaii being an exception. On our first visit to Sicily, we spent one lovely afternoon on a nearly deserted beach near Porto Paulo. The season was over, but the water was warm and beach was inviting.

The beach at La Caravella, Taormina.

This year, we opted for a more leisurely paced vacation and chose to spend some time enjoying the sand and surf. Our hotel in Taormina, the Villa Ducale, has arrangements with two local beach clubs—Lido La Pigna and La Caravella Lido. This is how it works—you reserve a place at the beach club through your hotel, the beach club sends a shuttle to collect you and takes you back to your hotel at a pre-agreed upon time at the end of the day. This is fairly typical. The fee for this was 8 Euro for Lido La Pigna and 12 Euro for La Caravella Lido. The beach club fees were about half the price of a round-trip taxi ride from our hotel into the town of Taormina and included reserved lounge chairs and umbrellas. Having a reserved lounge chair is a very good idea, especially during the busy summer season. Even in October when we visited, the weather was fantastic so the beach was crowded.

Reserve a chaise and umbrella, especially when the beach is crowded. Lido La Pigna, Taormina.

If you’d like to go to the beach after walking around town, as we did, you can also take the funicular down. Just outside the Porte Messina, the funicular is operated by ASM (same as bus line), and for 3 Euros, you can take a scenic one-way ride to the parking lot right across from La Pigna. It’s about a 10-minute walk from the same parking lot to La Caravella.

One way fare to the beach is just 3 Euros.

Scenic funicular ride takes only a few minutes from Taormina down to the beach.

Lido La Pigna, Taormina.

La Pigna was more crowded than La Caravella, probably due to the proximity of the funicular, but the water was pristine. There were paddle boats for rent, excursions to Isola Bella and that large rock you could swim out to and jump off—an activity many engaged in.

Lifeguard on duty at La Pigna, Taormina, Sicily. Signs warn of sudden drop off in water depth–in Italian, German and English.

Taiwanese women (self-identified) walked up and down the beach at La Pigna offering massage from 20 to 40 Euros for outdoor treatments ranging from foot reflexology to full body massage. We followed our masseuse down the beach where she had a little area set aside and had our treatments on chaise lounges on beach—not at all private, but very relaxing.

Lido La Pigna, Taormina, Sicily.

There were also some souvenir sellers on the beach at La Pigna. There were neither masseuses nor vendors on the beach at La Caravella on the days that we were there.

La Caravella Lido, Taormina, Sicily.

Our hotel provided us with a handy tote bag and nice big towels. This is important—be sure to get towels from your hotel because otherwise you have to pay a hefty rental fee for towels at the beach–if they have any. We learned this lesson the hard way and wound up paying 12 Euros each, just to use towels at a beach club in the Southeast of Sicily. There were no free towels available at any of the beach clubs we visited in Sicily. Remember to bring your own towels!

Swimming out to the rocks is an appealing activity at La Caravella, Taormina.

All of the beach clubs we visited had changing facilities and showers –but not the kind I imagined. In my mind, they would be like those at the fitness clubs and beach clubs I have visited or belonged to in the U.S.—comfortable locker rooms, all amenities (including hair dryers) provided, private, etc. The changing rooms at the beach clubs we visited in Sicily ranged from a portable unit, not unlike a large port-a-potty, to a permanent cement structure attached to the beach club’s restaurant. These changing rooms are utilitarian at best, but better than going home in a wet, sandy swimsuit.

Restaurant at La Caravella, Taormina. Changing facilities were in connecting building.

The showers were outdoors at both Taormina beach clubs we visited. In fact, the showers were outdoors at all the Sicilian beach clubs we went to. No soap or shampoo was provided and the showers are completely public— in other words, there is no privacy at all. The good news is that you are able to rinse off and even wash your hair after swimming—if you bring your own toiletries.

Both beach clubs had attentive chair-side beverage service as well as full- service restaurants on the property. We enjoyed a nice pizza and salad for lunch at Lido La Pigna but only had drinks at La Caravella since we had already had lunch in town.

La Terrazze at Lido La Pigna, Taormina.

La Terrazze’s menu, Lido La Pigna, Taormina.

We shared a pizza and a salad for lunch at Lido La Pigna, Taormina, Sicily.

There are other beach clubs in Taormina besides the two we visited and some hotels have their own. Wherever you choose to enjoy the beaches in Sicily, relax , unwind and have a wonderful time.

Touring Taormina: The “Must Sees”

The town of Taormina offers several “must sees” including the Greek Theater and the Public Gardens. The Greek Theater, or Teatro Greco Taormina, was built by the Greeks, possibly in the 3^rd Century BC, and rebuilt and expanded by the Romans. The arena is spectacular and is still a venue for all kinds of entertainment ranging from rock to classical music, ballet, and theatrical performances. It is also the home of the Taormina Film Festival. The views over the Bay of Naxos and up to Mt. Etna are amazing. There will be lots and lots of other people sharing the views at what is possibly the most famous, and certainly among the most visited site in Sicily. Even when it’s crowded, it is worth waiting to enter and enjoy the setting.

Taormina’s Teatro Greco is one of the most visited sites in Sicily.

Stunning landscaping at Taormina’s Greek Theater.

After braving the crowds, go next door to the luxurious Grand Hotel Timeo at Via Teatro Greco, 59. If you are staying here, you are indeed fortunate. While we did not, several friends have and loved it. Even if you are not a guest, you can relax with a drink or coffee on their expansive verandah—and once again, enjoy the incredible views. There are many, many lodging options in Taormina at all price points. The Grand Timeo is among the more expensive choices, but it is a very grand property and if you want a location in the heart of Taormina and price is not a consideration, why not?

The lovely terrace at the Grand Hotel Timeo is a fantastic place to relax with a drink or coffee.

The public gardens, Giardini della Villa Comunale, located on Via Bagnoli Croce are gorgeous and blissfully peaceful. Even though they are quite near to the Greek Theater, you’ll rarely encounter crowds while strolling the lovely manicured grounds, which also afford spectacular views.

Taormina’s beautiful public gardens are a peaceful oasis in a busy tourist town.

Giardini della Villa Comunale, Taormina, Sicily.

The gardens were the creation of Lady Florence Trevelyan, an Englishwoman known for her dalliances as well as her botanical interests. Lady Trevelyan included a number of “follies,” buildings included for visual interest but no other real purpose, in her gardens.

A so-called “folly” at the Giardini della Villa Comunale in Taormina, Sicily.

Along with beautiful Mediterranean and exotic flowers, plants and trees that keep the garden colorful all year long, you’ll find a human driven “torpedo” from World War II at Taormina’s Giardini della Villa Comunale. The craft, which operators in the Italian Navy referred to as the Maiale (pig) was electronically propelled and driven by two crewmen in dive suits who steered the torpedo to an enemy ship, detached the warhead, and affixed it to the enemy ship’s hull. Mission accomplished, the divers rode away on the torpedo before the explosion. An interesting find in the public gardens!

The human torpedo nicknamed "Miaile" or pig, at Taormina's beautiful public gardens.

The human torpedo nicknamed “Maiale” or pig, at Taormina’s beautiful public gardens.

Next, we’ll join the crowds and see the town.

Spectacular Sicily: Taormina Practicalities

Like many travelers, we chose to start our Sicilian adventure in Taormina. About an hour’s drive north from the Catania airport, Taormina is high above the Ionian Sea, affording fantastic views of both the sea and Mt. Etna, especially if you have chosen lodging above the town as we did, at the Villa Ducale. More on that later.

Taormina, Sicily.

Mt. Etna peaks through the clouds, Taormina, Sicily.

The drive up the winding A18/E45 to Taormina is usually uneventful except for when you have to share the narrow roadway with enormous tour buses and trucks careening through curves beside you. As we approached the A18/E45 toll way on our last visit, we saw traffic backed up for a good distance—this was unusual. When we finally arrived at the ticket booths, we noticed many people leaving their cars and walking up to the ticket machines. There were no workers on site and the machines were not functioning either. A number of the toll barriers had been lifted up and people were just driving through—without tickets. We followed suit while I frantically searched my memory banks for the Italian words to tell the toll taker at the other end why we had no ticket. I had just about figured out what to say when we reached our exit and saw the big posters pasted on the tollbooth—Sciopero–Strike! We should have known. There are frequent strikes in Italy. They are usually announced in the media in advance of the event and they are not particularly long lived. It is a good idea to pay attention to what and who exactly will be striking, particularly if you are relying on public transportation.

Memorize the word sciopero-- strike! They occur often in Italy.

Memorize the word sciopero– strike! Strikes occur often in Italy.

That experience behind us, we continued our drive up into the hills above the city of Taormina to our hotel—The Villa Ducale on Via Leonardo da Vinci, 60, Taormina. I must admit all those glowing Trip Advisor reviews I read made me a little apprehensive when I booked in for our first visit last year. How could anyplace be that good? I’m pleased to report that it is indeed a wonderful place to stay. We have stayed there twice for a total of seven nights and were delighted with our lodging, the service, staff and the quiet location above the busy town of Taormina.

Our room at Villa Ducale, high above Taormina, Sicily. Sister hotel, Villa Carlotta is located in Taormina, closer to the sea.

Our terrace at Villa Ducale, Taormina, Sicily. We also had a small balcony.

Friendly, attentive service is a hallmark at Villa Ducale, Taormina, Sicily.

There is no “restaurant” at the hotel however; dinner is served nightly on their beautiful terrace with gorgeous views to the sea below and Mt. Etna above. Sit back with a nice glass of prosecco, enjoy the view and peruse the menu featuring delicious Sicilian specialties like fresh tuna or swordfish prepared in a number of ways, pastas featuring seasonal ingredients, several meat dishes, and lovely vegetable dishes and salads. They have a good wine list with reasonably priced local selections. Desserts are also terrific. Everything is prepared in- house and with a deft hand. Service is attentive and the terrace is glorious. If you stay at Villa Ducale, be sure to book in for dinner your first night (at least) as they have limited seating.

Dinner on the terrace, Villa Ducale, Taormina, Sicily.

Simply grilled swordfish at Villa Ducale, Taormina, Sicily.

Breakfast is also served on the terrace, as are complimentary cakes at teatime and appetizers at cocktail hour. There is also a sister property, Villa Carlotta, down in the town of Taormina. It has a pool, which is available to guests at both hotels, and there is a complimentary shuttle that goes between the two as well as to the town.

Unless we were going further afield, as we did when we drove up the Etna, we parked our car at the hotel and relied on public transportation and taxis. Parking is a nightmare in town and the winding, narrow roads are harrowing.

Complimentary cakes are served at teatime at the Villa Ducale, Taormina.

Next up, exploring the town of Taormina. Be prepared for lots of tourists and souvenir shops, but several “must sees” and some hidden treasures!

Around Town in Taormina, Sicily

Even in October, the streets of Taormina are jam packed with tourists, many trailing their tour guides. Large, slow, name tags and fanny packs in evidence, many of these groups of visitors disembark from their cruise ships early in the morning, and after a long day of souvenir shopping for the likes of Homer Simpson as The Godfather tee shirts, thankfully get back on their boats before sunset.

The streets are Taormina are packed with people–even in October.

Both the sheer numbers of people and the shops offering absolute junk surprised me. I don’t think I’ve ever seen so many souvenir shops selling so many of the same silly things.

Godfather tee shirts are in abundance at Taormina’s shops.

How do all these shops stay in business?

Despite the crowds and questionable merchandise, the main street, Corso Umberto I, is certainly worth a stroll and there are lovely churches and galleries to stop in and admire as you make you way through the throngs. There are gates at each end of Corso Umberto I– Porta Catania and Porta Messina, through which you enter this pedestrian thoroughfare. Piazza del Duomo and Piazza IX Aprile are the two main squares in the town with the requisite cafes and shops, though there are also bars and restaurants, along with countless shops, all along the Corso and on the smaller streets. Cafe Wunderbar on the Piazza IX Aprile looks inviting and always seems to have a crowd.

Piazza IX Aprile, Taormina, Sicily.

Piazza del Duomo, Taormina, Sicily.

La Fontana, Taormina.

Ceramics are a really popular souvenir all over Sicily and Taormina is no exception. Ceramic heads of kings and queens are especially sought after in the Taormina area. There are a number of stories around this with slight variations, but all have a grisly ending.

Ubiquitous ceramic king and queen heads.

Taormina, Sicily.

More, more, more.

Modern ceramics are popular, too.

Leave the main streets and piazzas and you’ll be rewarded by Taormina’s quiet corners.

Find lovely galleries and shops on Taormina’s small narrow streets off the Corso Umberto I.

This deconsecrated church is now a gallery on a small street off the Corso Umberto.

Taking a break in Taormina.

There are restaurants to suit all tastes and budgets in Taormina, but if you like arancini—a Sicilian specialty that is basically a big rice ball stuffed with delicious cheese, meats and/or vegetables, (tastes so much better than it sounds) you must go to Antica Rosticceria da Cristina. It’s at 2 Via Strabone—a little alley off the Piazza del Duomo near the Excelsior Hotel This is a carry out place so you’ll queue up, choose your favorite (I like the original), grab a drink and then either eat at one of their very few tables or walk up to the little park outside the Porta Catania (go left after you walk back up the alley towards the main street) and enjoy your al fresco lunch.

Try da Christina for arancini in Taormina.

The humble but tasty arancino.

Afterward, treat yourself to some gelato for dessert. My favorite is Gelateria Artigianale O’sciality on Piazza Antonio Abate, just outside the Porta Catania. Yum!

Delicious artisanal gelato in Taormina.

If you’re feeling quite fit, or just need to walk off the arancini and gelato, take a walk up the 700+ steps through the town to the Madonna Della Rocca and the Castello Saraceno. Look for the signposts.

The cross of the church of Madonna della Rocca can be seen from the town of Taormina below.

The steps can be steep and are narrow in some areas, but the views are superb and there are sculptures marking the Stations of the Cross along the way.

Stations of the Cross mark the steps between Madonna della Rocca and the town of Taormina below.

Some of the 700+ steps that lead to Madonna della Rocca from Taormina, Sicily.

700+ steps lead to Madonna della Rocca from Taormina, Sicily.

There are also benches in some spots so that you can stop and rest. Once you reach the top, visit the small but beautiful church of the Madonna della Rocca, so named because it is built into the rock on which it stands.

The church of Madonna della Rocca is built into the rock on which it stands.

The Castle of the Saracens is not open for touring but you can admire the ruins from a distance.

You can choose to walk down those many, many steps back to town, take a bus which passes just a block below in front of Villa Ducale on Via Leonardo da Vinci or, depending upon the time of day, have the Al Saraceno restaurant or Villa Ducale call a taxi for you. Villa Ducale offers its guests a complimentary shuttle service into town and back. Full disclosure—we walked down the steps into town and took a taxi back up to our hotel. A word about public transportation– there are local ASM city buses, which we took when the schedule was convenient, though no buses ran for several hours in the afternoon, and those run by Interbus (these are blue). Both run regularly and on a schedule. The Interbus goes farther afield than the local bus. Tickets can be purchased on the bus in both cases. Look for the main bus stop just outside the Porta Messina. There is also a taxi stand there.

The views are amazing on the steps between the town of Taormina and Madonna della Rocca. We walked down to town, not up.

If you’ve managed to walk up all those steps, reward yourself with lunch or dinner at Al Saraceno, Via Madonna della Rocca. The food is delicious, well priced and if the weather is nice, the expansive outdoor terrace is open. Again, the views are spectacular. We enjoyed several terrific dinners here.

If you choose to dine at Al Saraceno, make reservations– it’s popular with locals.

Next, we’ll explore a few of Taormina’s beach clubs.

Menfi, Southwest Sicily and Planeta Estate’s La Foresteria

A giant golden sun welcomes visitors to Menfi, Sicily.

You won’t find much in the guidebooks about Menfi and there is a reason for this. It is a small, unremarkable town in the Southwest of Sicily with no major tourist attractions but there are several excellent reasons to put it on your itinerary. First off, Menfi is a great base for day trips to Selinunte, Segesta, Erice, Marsala, Trapani and other nearby destinations–there is a lot to explore in this part of Sicily. Second, is that is the Planeta family, known for their highly regarded Sicilian wines, has a lovely, small hotel called La Foresteria located just a few kilometers outside of town. This peaceful oasis is between Menfi and Porto Palo, a small seaside community with beautiful, pristine beaches–more on that later.

Welcome to La Foresteria.

Planeta’s La Foresteria is surrounded by beautiful countryside which leads to the sea.

La Foresteria has simple, well-appointed and comfortable rooms. Ours, named Timo (thyme), had a large bed, small sitting area, ample closet space and a bathroom with a double shower and very nice toiletries. The room also had a mini fridge and a safe. Depending on location, each of the 14 rooms has either a patio or balcony with views out over the vineyards and fields to the sea—very tranquil. Besides birdsong, the only other sounds you’re likely to hear are distant tractors working the land. It is an oasis of tranquility.

We had a typical room at La Foresteria– large, comfortable, simple but well appointed.

Rooms have views from their terraces or patios across the fields and on to the sea.

There is a gorgeous infinity pool if you’re up for a swim or for just lounging around and enjoying a sunset cocktail. The hotel has plenty of comfortable public spaces to relax and read, chat or enjoy the peace and quiet. There is also a small gym on the property.

The inviting pool at La Planeta’s La Foresteria, near Menfi, Sicily.

La Foresteria’s pool is the perfect place to enjoy the sunset and a cocktail.

During the summer season through September, La Foresteria has a private beach club for guests. Friends have given it good reviews and really enjoyed the onsite massage service and lunch but both of our visits have been in October, after the beach club was closed. The weather was still perfect though, and the hotel provided us with beach chairs, towels and umbrellas to use at the nearby beaches.

The beaches in nearby Porto Palo are among the cleanest and most pristine in all of Europe and proudly sport the blue flags awarded by the EU Foundation for Environmental Education proclaiming this. We practically had the beach to ourselves and the water was crystal clear and gloriously warm. Take some time off from touring to relax by the sea.

The area near Menfi is known for its beautiful and pristine beaches.

Another reason to stay at La Foresteria is the incredible cuisine prepared by Chef Angelo Pumilia. He takes full advantage of the fresh seafood and abundant vegetables from the area. The menu, which changes seasonally, features classic Sicilian dishes and while we were there, a number of crudos—raw fish dishes that were all excellent, along with artfully prepared pasta and meat courses.

Dinner is served on the terrace during warmer months. Here Chef Angelo welcomes us back to La Foresteria.

Everything we ate, and we each had three courses most nights, was superb. During our two stays (12 nights) we sampled most items on the menu– swordfish, prawns, mullet, chick pea soup, linguine with sardines, ricotta and mint ravioli, different lamb, beef and pork preparations– all were delicious– but Chef Angelo’s couscous was especially outstanding.

Chef Angelo’s spectacular couscous includes both raw and cooked fish.

The local seafood is prominently featured on the menu…

…and artfully prepared and presented.

Guests may choose from several prix fix options or order a la carte. Whichever choice you make, save room for his sublime desserts. The olive oil ice cream and the Cerasuolo di Vittoria (wine) ice cream were my favorites.

Cerasuolo ice cream makes a perfect dessert.

As expected, the reasonably priced wine list is heavily populated with Planeta offerings, but other producers’ wines are available as well. La Foresteria’s knowledgeable staff will gladly guide you.

Planeta wines dominate the wine list, naturally, but other producers are represented as well.

Breakfast is a lovely affair with a bountiful buffet featuring fresh fruits, cheeses, hams, hard cooked eggs, pastries, cakes, juices, coffee drinks, and tea– all enjoyed on the expansive terrace.

Guests choose their breakfast favorites. Coffee drinks are made to order and served at the table.

This table doubles as the communal dining table for dinner during cooler weather.

Both breakfast and dinner were served outside on the patio on our last visit—a fine way to enjoy the great views and warm weather. On our first stay, only breakfast was available on the patio. Dinner was served inside at a large communal table, which was very convivial, and a great way to meet other guests. We made new friends from Italy, France, Belgium, England, Japan and New Zealand.

Guests enjoy breakfast and beautiful views on La Foresteria’s terrace.

While guests have priority for dining room seating, in the morning you should let the front desk staff know if you plan to dine at La Foresteria that evening. I would also recommend booking if you plan to enjoy dinner the evening you arrive. You wouldn’t want to miss out on Chef Angelo’s outstanding cuisine!

The talented and personable Chef Angelo Pumilia presides over La Foresteria’s kitchen.

If you’d like to learn more about Sicilian cuisine, the hotel offers cooking classes with Chef Angelo. Our schedule couldn’t accommodate a full class so we opted for a “Chat with the Chef” one evening for an hour before dinner. We enjoyed a wonderful conversation in the kitchen with Chef amid the hustle and bustle of the evening’s dinner preparation. The front desk will arrange either of these options for you as well as a visit to Planteta’s nearby wine estate. We had an informative tour, terrific wine tasting and a delicious lunch with Chiara Planeta. It was a memorable afternoon, which ended with a relaxing dip in the pool and a well-deserved nap.

A quiet moment at Da Vittoria, before the lunch crowd.

If you choose to dine off property, try Da Vittoria. This local favorite is less than a 10- minute drive from La Foresteria and is right on the beach. The restaurant specializes in seafood and whole fish dishes in particular. We enjoyed some wonderful pasta dishes including shrimp and pistachios, a red mullet pasta and other equally good seafood pasta combos. Our least favorite was the house pasta combination. The grilled fish was simply prepared but so fresh and delicious —the swordfish in particular.

The excellent shrimp and pistachio pasta at Da Vittoria.

Simple but delicious fishcakes made from local catch.

Mandrossa’s Fiano was a perfect accompaniment to our lunch.

The portions are huge at Da Vittoria. Do not be shy about sharing—just say, “Uno per duo, per favore!” We had several lunches and dinners here and enjoyed the food, the view and the people watching each time. Even though the restaurant is quite large it fills up, so do book in for lunch or dinner.

Next up, day trips to consider.

Note– While I do lavish praise on La Foresteria, I have no commercial relationship with the hotel. I just really enjoy staying there!

Villa Romana del Casale’s Magnificent Mosiacs

Heroic hunting scenes, chariot races, beautiful birds, wild beasts, cherubs, mythical sea creatures, even girls in bikinis—are all here at Villa Romana del Casale depicted in mosaics so vibrant that they almost come to life.

One of the polychrome floor mosaics at Villa Romana del Casale, near Piazza Armerina, Sicily.

Almost in the dead center of Sicily, about 5 km southwest of the town of Piazza Armerina, Villa Romana del Casale is home to the largest, best preserved and most exquisite Roman mosaics anywhere in the world. You won’t come upon these splendid ruins by chance and it is well worth a side trip to see them. We chose to visit the Villa Romana del Casale on our way from Taormina to La Planteta’s La Foresteria near Menfi. You may be scratching your head if you’re looking at a map right now, but for our purposes and itinerary, it seemed the best time to go. It was a very long drive to get here but it was worth it.

Mosiac at Villa Romana del Casale near Piazza Armerina, Sicily.

The African animals depicted in the mosaics at Villa Romana del Casale show the far reaches of the Roman Empire.

Protected as a UNESCO site since 1997, the Villa was likely constructed in the 4^th century, possibly for a Roman senator. The structure was built upon a more rustic villa dating between the 1^st and 3^rd centuries AD. The exacting detail illustrating dress, hairstyle and even footwear, shown in the mosaics’ depictions of daily life, as well as those more fantastical scenes, helped archeologists date the villa’s construction.

Villa Romana del Casale was built between the 2nd and 4th centuries AD.

Villa Romana del Casale was probably built 4th centuries AD atop an older structure.

The mosaics are so well preserved primarily because they were covered in a mudslide in the 12^th century and remained buried until excavations began in the 1950s. Once subject to the elements, the ruins are now covered and walkways connect the four buildings at different elevations, allowing visitors to view many of the intricate mosaic floors from above and at ground level. Various rooms including private apartments, baths, and courtyards are open for viewing. Different themes and mosaic motifs indicate who was most likely to inhabit or use the rooms: adults, children, servants, or guests.

Extensive ruins at Villa Romana del Casale, near Pizza Armerina, Sicily.

Villa Romana del Casale was not at all crowded when we were there in October, but if the enormous car parks and tour bus lots are any indication of the number of visitors that arrive during the busy summer months, beware. Try to go early or late in the day to avoid the crowds and the heat. Please visit the Villa’s website www.villaromanadelcasale.it for updated ticket prices and hours of operation, as well as for downloadable visitor’s guides in English, French and Italian.

Whenever you go, you’ll be rewarded with a glimpse into Imperial Roman daily life, and fantastic flights of fancy, as you view this incredible record of the past preserved in the form of magnificent mosaics.

Note: If you go to see the villa, have a delicious lunch or dinner at nearby Al Fogher. We had a lovely multi -course lunch before our visit to the villa. We were told Al Fogher was one of the best restaurants in the area but was not at all busy when we were there. Book a table to be sure you get one if you travel during the high season. There was a cafeteria onsite at the Villa Romana but it was not particularly inviting and most of it was closed—likely because we visited off-season. We were happy to have a cold drink there though. It can get very hot, even in October, in Sicily and the day of our visit was no exception.

Scala dei Turchi- Sicily’s Spectacular Turkish Steps

You’ll see them long before you reach them– bright white, gleaming brilliantly in the Sicilian sun as they rise from the blue Mediterranean–the Scala dei Turchi or Turkish Steps. If you’re in the area of Agrigento, home to Valle dei Templi– some of Sicily’s best known and most visited Greek ruins, head a few miles west towards Realmonte and Porte Empedocle and explore one of Southern Sicily’s most breathtaking natural wonders.

When we visited, people were able to climb the Scala dei Turchi near Porte Empedocle, Sicily.

Follow the brown informational road signs and you’ll wind up at a car park just across from the beach. It can be tricky to find so pay close attention. Walk past the beach club and restaurant and hike along the beach. The trail is fairly rocky, marshy and wet, of course. There are nicer swimming beaches in the area, but you won’t find anything like the Turkish Steps anywhere else.

The gleaming white steps of the Scala dei Turchi beckon from the beach.

As you walk through grassy wetlands, and along the beach, shimmering in the distance you’ll see the spectacular step formation known as Scala dei Turchi rising from the sea.

Consider aquasocks or similar footwear as the beach is quite rocky.

The Turkish Steps, as they are popularly referred to, are truly a sight to behold. Formed by sedimentary rock, this gleaming white staircase leads up to spectacular cliffs that rise up from the blue Mediterranean. The site got its name from the stair-like shape of the rock formation and also because it was a favorite landing place for pirates and the invading Moors.

Visitors used to climb the Turkish Steps but this is no longer permitted.

The rock is fairly soft and many visitors have carved their names, initials and paeans to love in the steps. We do not encourage this.

Unfortunately, visitors have carved messages in the soft rock in many languages. Please don’t.

We visited the Scala dei Turchi on a beautiful warm October afternoon and while we were certainly not alone, the site was not terribly crowded. That is not the case during the summertime, we’ve been told. We were also warned that parking is at a premium in the summer months.

Enjoy the views from the overlook above the Scala dei Turchi. It is not possible to climb them any more.

The crashing waves of Mediterranean Sea far below– breathtaking.

You may also choose to park above the steps and walk down to the top, where there is an overlook, instead of hiking along the beach. This is a shorter and less challenging way to go but you’ll miss the great views that the beach walk affords.

Visitors used to relax and enjoy the view from the top of the Turkish Steps.

The naturally created troughs at the top of Scala dei Turchi drew many looking for a place to relax, sunbathe and enjoy the magnificent Mediterranean Sea– this is no longer permitted. Enjoy views of the steps and the Sicilian sunset from the beach or overlook above before heading back to your hotel!

UPDATE– The Turkish Steps are now protected and it is not permitted to climb them. I have revised the post to reflect that, though when I wrote this piece and took the photos, it was allowed. Enjoy this natural wonder from the beach below or the scenic overlook above, but please stay off the steps.

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