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Tours

Sunnylands— A Midcentury Masterpiece

As a regular visitor to the Palm Desert area, I often wondered what was behind the big pink walls where Bob Hope and Frank Sinatra Drives intersect in Rancho Mirage.  During Modernism Week I found out.  Among the more than 350 events and activities offered during the 10-day tribute to Midcentury Modernism were tours of Sunnylands, the marvelous estate built by media mogul and philanthropist Walter Annenberg and his second wife, Lee. 

The glass and Mexican lava rock midcentury marvel built by Walter and Lee Annenberg was conceived as a family home and high-level retreat for world leaders and luminaries from the arts, media and industry. Photo courtesy Annenberg Foundation Trust at Sunnylands.

Conceived as both a family home to escape winters in Wynnewood, PA, where the couple maintained their permanent residence, and an intimate, high-level retreat where leaders of government and industry could meet privately to address national and global concerns, Sunnylands has successfully filled both roles since it was completed in 1966.

The centerpiece of the 200-acre estate is a fabulous glass and Mexican lava rock 25,000- square-foot midcentury home designed by architect A. Quincy Jones.  It’s hard not to “ooh and aah” when the front door of the historic main house opens onto the spectacular great room with its pink marble floors, prolific planting, outstanding art collection (Rodin’s Eve surrounded by 300 pink bromeliads will be one of the first things you’ll see in the central atrium), exquisite furnishings, and panoramic desert views.

Art Price’s Birds of Welcome, a favorite of the Annenbergs, greets visitors to Sunnylands.

Visitors on the 90-minute Historic House Tour, which is the only way to visit the home, learn all about the property and the people who designed, built, lived in and stayed at this wonderful estate.  You’ll visit all of the rooms in the house including my personal favorite–the Room of Memories. It’s chock full of memorabilia marking momentous occasions, Christmas cards and thank you letters—some from British royalty, photos, portraits, and family mementos. 

The Room of Memories has photos, portraits, letters, memorabilia, mementos and more documenting decades of visits to Sunnylands from famous guests and the historic role the house has played in U.S. history. Photo courtesy Annenberg Foundation Trust at Sunnylands.

The color-themed guest rooms (hint-Mrs. Annenberg’s favorite colors were yellow, pink and green), stunning dining room, cozy game room, and the kitchen, where visitors will get a peek at the incredible china collection the Annenbergs used to host dinners large and small, are all on the tour.  Visitors also have access to the Annenberg’s private quarters, which were modified somewhat by Mrs. Annenberg after her husband’s death in 2002 at the age of 94.

Comfortable guest rooms were color-themed and included Mrs. Annenberg’s favorites– yellow, green and pink. Photo courtesy Annenberg Foundation Trust at Sunnylands.

You’ll also see the Inwood Room, redesigned from its original purpose as a patio, to hold many of the antiques Mrs. Annenberg brought to Sunnylands after closing their Pennsylvania home, Inwood.  She wanted a place that reminded her of her home in the East.

The Annenbergs, known for their support of the arts, filled Sunnylands with masterpieces by artists including Picasso, Degas, Van Gogh, Cezanne, Monet, Renoir, Matisse, Rodin, Giacometti and Braque. Some of the paintings now on the walls are high-quality reproductions.  Mr. Annenberg donated many of the original works to the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, where he was a trustee for many years.

This Kwakiutl totem pole was commissioned by the Annenbergs and is located on the estate’s private nine-hole golf course.

The grounds include a tennis court, private nine- hole golf course and no less than 11 lakes. Now operated by the Annenberg Foundation Trust, the estate has expanded to include 15 additional acres for the Sunnylands Center and Gardens, which opened in 2012.  That’s the same year the property became accessible to the public.

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Visitors to Sunnylands enjoy spectacular desert and mountain views. The private nine-hole golf course enjoyed by celebrities and world leaders is in the distance.

While Sunnylands served as the winter home of the Annenbergs, it was also designed to function as a private and intimate retreat for luminaries and world leaders. The guest list is as impressive as the property. Eight U.S. Presidents were among the notable visitors the Annenbergs welcomed to Sunnylands.  Dwight Eisenhower, an avid golfer, was the first U.S. President to enjoy a round on the estate’s private course with Walter Annenberg.

President and Mrs. Reagan were good friends of the Annenbergs and frequent visitors to Sunnylands. Mr. Reagan was one of eight U.S. Presidents to have enjoyed their hospitality. Photo courtesy Annenberg Foundation Trust at Sunnylands.

Ronald Reagan, a good friend of the Annenbergs, was a frequent guest as President, and earlier, when he served as Governor of California.  Along with his wife Nancy, a dear friend of Leonore “Lee” Annenberg, the Reagans were a fixture at the Sunnylands New Year’s Eve party for many years.   Mr. Reagan held cabinet meetings and invited his top advisors to the estate. President Reagan’s treat of choice– Jelly Belly® jellybeans are still available in his favorite guest room. No detail that could add to a guest’s pleasure was too small to include at Sunnylands.  Fun fact—the jellybeans are color-coordinated to match the bedding and upholstery!

The Yellow Room was President Reagan’s favorite. Jellybeans were always on hand–color coordinated to match the room, of course. Photo courtesy Annenberg Foundation Trust at Sunnylands.

Richard Nixon, who was also a long-time friend of the couple and another frequent guest before, during and after his presidency, spent a number of months in seclusion at the estate after his resignation. His poignant thank you note is on display in the house.

George H.W. Bush held the only State dinner ever hosted outside the White House at Sunnylands for Prime Minister Kaifu of Japan in 1990. They were able to negotiate some difficult trade issues in the relaxed setting Sunnylands provided. President Bush also enjoyed fishing at the estate and preferred the Green Room for its proximity to the lake for early morning angling.

President George H.W. Bush enjoyed early morning fishing in some of the 11 lakes on property at Sunnylands.

Presidents Gerald Ford, George W. Bush and Bill Clinton all enjoyed the Annenberg’s hospitality at Sunnylands.  President Obama was a three-time visitor, meeting with Chinese President Xi Jinping on one occasion and Jordan’s King Abdullah II on another. He also held a summit with 10 Association of Southeast Asian Nations leaders at the estate, which resulted in the “Sunnylands Declaration.” 

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President Obama and Chinese President Xi Jinping were photographed strolling near the reflection pool shown here.

Appointed by President Reagan, Walter Annenberg served as U.S. Ambassador to the Court of St. James and was awarded an Honorary Knightship (KBE) so it’s no surprise that Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip, Prince Charles, and other members of the British Royal Family were visitors to Sunnylands.

Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip, shown here with Ambassador and Mrs. Annenberg, were guests at Sunnylands, along with other members of the Royal Family. Photo courtesy Annenberg Foundation Trust at Sunnylands.

U.S. Supreme Court Justices Sandra Day O’Connor and Anthony Kennedy, Secretary of State George Shultz, British Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher, Henry Kissinger, Barbara Walters, Colin Powell, Steve Forbes and other highly influential people from government, industry, media and the arts have all been feted at Sunnylands. 

It hasn’t been all problem solving and high- level meetings at the estate though. Frank Sinatra wed his wife Barbara at Sunnylands and the couple were frequent guests at festivities there, including the social event of the year—the Annenberg’s annual New Year’s Eve party.  Hollywood icons like Bob Hope, Bing Crosby, Kirk Douglas, Gregory Peck and Ginger Rogers have all been on the guest list.  Photos capturing the Annenbergs and their famous friends at play are on display throughout the home.

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All tours except the Open Air Experience must be booked in advance, online.

The historic main house can be visited only by guided tour, which must be booked online, typically one month in advance.  Because access is limited, the Historic House Tour slots fill quickly.  Plan ahead!  This is the only tour that provides access to the home.  Groups of seven are shuttled from the Visitor Center to the house for the 90-minute tour, which includes standing and walking—there is no sitting down and children under 10 are not permitted.  Knowledgeable guides, many from local colleges, accompany visitors through the home and around the lushly landscaped exterior areas adjacent to the house.

Channel your inner Hollywood icon and imagine yourself preparing for a dip in the pool with some of the Annenbergs’ famous friends like Frank Sinatra, who was married at the estate.

There is a separate tour available for the grounds without prior reservations. The Open Air Experience is a 45-minute trip aboard an electric shuttle around the exquisite estate with visits to various outdoor locations such as the private golf course where visitors can see a Kwakiutl totem pole built especially for the Annenbergs, the Chinese Pavilion where Mrs. Annenberg entertained lunch guests, the Annenbergs’ final resting place, sculpture including Birds of Welcome by Art Price, and much more.  The Foundation’s commitment to sustainability and the steps being taken to preserve and protect plant and wildlife species on the grounds are also discussed during the visit. The Open Air Experience can be booked on a first come-first served basis during a visit to the Sunnylands Center and Gardens and unlike the other tours, does not require prior reservations.

Birding tours on the Estate are also available and must be booked online, in advance. An experienced birder leads the 90-minute excursion and all levels are welcome to participate.

 

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The Sunnylands Center and Gardens are open to the public free of charge.

There is no admission fee for the Sunnylands Center and Gardens, which opened in 2012 and is family-friendly.  Inside the glass-walled building guests can enjoy a short film that tells the history of the estate and the Annenbergs. This is well worth viewing before visiting the house or in lieu of, if you haven’t been fortunate enough to reserve space on a tour. There are art and photo exhibitions, historic photos, and memorabilia on display.

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Enjoy the gardens while having a snack or light meal at the cafe.

 

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Sunnylands Center and Gardens are family-friendly, though the tours do have age limits.

There’s also a gift shop and a small café for a casual lunch or snack, which can be enjoyed indoors or outside at the tables overlooking the garden.  On a recent visit, families were playing games and picnicking on the garden’s central grassy grounds.

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Meandering paths take visitors through the Sunnylands Gardens featuring more than 70 native and drought-tolerant species.

The expansive gardens include a labyrinth for peaceful mediation, meandering paths, reflection pools and more than 70 species of native plant life. The native and drought-resistant plants used in the landscape are clearly marked for the enjoyment of amateur botanists.

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Visitors can walk the labyrinth and enjoy quiet meditation at Sunnylands Gardens.

Tours are not conducted while retreats and meetings are taking place on the property. No photos are allowed inside the house due to security concerns.  The Annenberg Foundation graciously provided the interior photos I’ve included here.  Sunnylands is not open during summer months. Please visit their website for current tour dates and ticket information.

Palm Springs—Marvelous Modernism Week

Palm Springs. Just the thought conjures up sunny skies, swimming pools, palm trees—a picture perfect place to relax and enjoy the desert climate, perhaps with a cocktail in hand.

Palm Springs is also a mecca for midcentury modern architecture, design and style. From February 13-23, 2025, the city will welcome Mid Mod fans for Modernism Week’s 20th anniversary! Naturally, I’ll be writing an update, but in the meantime, here’s a story I wrote a few years ago about this celebration of all things midcentury:

Palm Springs shifts into high gear each February, as Midcentury Modern fans from across the globe descend on this laid-back desert community for the 11-day festival called Modernism Week.  In 2020, just weeks before the pandemic shutdown hit, 162,000 attendees came to enjoy midcentury fun in the sun. I was one of them.

Bus tours, walking tours, bike tours, architectural tours, garden tours and my favorite– home tours– are all part of the fun at Modernism Week.

Modernism Week offers more than 350 events including signature home tours, films, lectures, fashion shows, bus tours, bike tours, walking tours, garden tours, parties, a vintage trailer show, art exhibitions, vintage car show, design expo, cooking demonstrations, concerts—all focused on midcentury modern design, architecture, art, and culture. Here’s a look at some of the featured homes from past Modernism Week festivals:

The collection of framed artwork above represents popular midcentury swimming pool shapes. The owl-themed wall paper in the bar area is also very much on brand in this 2020 Modernism Week featured home.
This room has midcentury style in spades, from the Hockney print to the light fixture to the room divider!
This midcentury office was so much fun, I’m using it as my Zoom background.
Wallpaper was an important design element in the classic midcentury home. This room shows how bold wallpaper keeps the look fresh.
This shagalicious sitting area screams 1960s… and that wall paper!
Part of the fun of home tours is meeting the architects, designers and the home owners who live in these wonderful spaces. Kevin and Howard are designers and the homeowners here.
Lots of desert homes have courtyards featuring brise soleil– French for “sun breaker” –to let the air in but keep the sun out. You’ll see some elaborate examples from the double decker bus tours, as well as on home tours.

As if all those tours, presentations and special events weren’t enough, last year there were opportunities to meet with landscape architects (including my friend Amelia Lima, an award- winning landscape architect), authors, designers and other experts during the event–sometimes one-on-one to help you solve your design problems indoors and out. There was even a chance for some retail therapy at the annual vintage yard sale. There’s truly something for everyone who loves the mid-century aesthetic at Modernism Week!  

The always popular Modernism Show & Sale and Modern Design Expo is a highlight for many at Modernism Week.
Shopping for vintage decor as well as brand new pieces like this cork furniture by Eugene Stotzfus is all part of the fun at the Modernism Show and Sale.

In addition to all those tours and talks, demonstrations and presentations, there are parties!

They were just putting the festive finishing touches on this home, by Christopher Kennedy, when we arrived. It’s fun to experience featured show homes in a relaxed and convivial setting.

I usually start my day at CAMP – Modernism Week’s ‘Community and Meeting Place’ and defacto headquarters for tours and events.

I like to start my day with a cup of Koffi at CAMP! Koffi has been providing complimentary coffee and tea to attendees since I’ve been coming to Modernism Week.

At CAMP, you’ll find information, complimentary coffee, a snack bar, pop-up bookstore and shop, cooking demonstrations, and swoon worthy sponsor displays from companies like Ferguson Kitchen, Bath & Lighting Gallery, Corian Design, JennAir, and Brizo. Many nights CAMP hosted live music by the Dreamboats and a happy hour. It was a great place to take a break, grab a bite and mingle.

Meet my new friends. Dressed to impress for Modernism Week, they’re here from Calgary to enjoy live music by the Dreamboats and Happy Hour at CAMP.
CAMP serves as “headquarters” for Modernism Week. Step inside for information, tickets, book and gift shop, coffee, snack bar, demonstrations and more.

Due to the ongoing pandemic and local and state requirements, Modernism Week will be different this year. The 2021 celebration will actually be two events. Organizers have announced that this year’s celebration will include an all-virtual program for the entire month of February and in person events scheduled for April 8-18.

The Modernism Week Online Experience from Feb. 1 – 28, 2021 will feature more than 20 video programs available for on demand streaming throughout the month. The April 8-18 festival in Palm Springs will include in-person events, including home and garden tours, as well as additional virtual experiences. Please visit modernismweek.com for program updates.

Charles Phoenix, the always popular midcentury modern expert and author, took us on a fabulous virtual trip to some of Palm Springs most iconic homes during October Preview Week. Photo courtesy Modernism Week.

I sampled Modernism Week’s first virtual offering during the October Preview Week event which was held all online due to Covid-19. I took a wildly entertaining virtual “ride” with Charles Phoenix, the cheeky midcentury expert and author who typically leads sold- out bus tours during Modernism Week. 

Elvis Presley and his bride Priscilla spent their honeymoon at this Palm Springs Swiss Miss -style home. Modernism Week’s virtual tour takes you inside where you’ll get a peek at things like the circular electric range– high style for the times!

Mr. Phoenix is a hoot, to say the least, and led a fast- paced and informative trip around Palm Springs in his vintage ride.  I “visited” numerous midcentury icons including Elvis and Priscilla Presley’s Swiss Miss honeymoon hideaway and Richard Neutra’s Kaufmann House with Mr. Phoenix and loved every minute of it.

I’d seen the exterior of the Richard Neutra- designed Kaufmann House on other Modernism Week tours, but the virtual visit took viewers inside this home and many others.

I also took virtual tours of the stunning SkyFall House—yes, you might expect Mr. Bond to arrive via parachute over the pool—the fabulous Pierre Cardin House with a 1972 special Cardin edition AMC Javelin in the garage, the Edris House with its Dixiecup lighting, and the home noted midcentury architect Donald Wexler designed for his own family, along with other historic area dwellings– all thanks to a series of videos created especially for Modernism Week.   I’m looking forward to February’s slate of programs!

While the virtual programming was entertaining and informative, I’m excited about the April 2021 in person programming. Organizers have announced that all activities and events are designed to meet social distancing and safety protocols per California public health requirements.

Modernism Week’s 2020 featured homes were very special, particularly properties like the Miles Bates Wave House designed by Walter S. White.

The iconic Wave House, named for its curvilinear roof, was designed by Walter S. White for Miles Bates in 1955. The building, which had fallen into disrepair and was on the auction block when we saw it in 2018, was open for touring during Modernism Week 2020. The transformation was stunning!
Here’s what Miles Bate’s Wave House looked like when we first saw it in 2018. The inside was even sadder than the exterior. Happily it was purchased and restored to its former glory by LA’s Stayner Architects. Beginning summer 2021, it will be available for events and overnight stay rentals.
Here’s a look at the cozy kitchen and living area of the Wave House, now beautifully restored.

The upcoming April events will feature signature home tours, architectural walking tours, an outdoor garden tour, a number of talks and special events, plus the always popular Modernism Show & Sale and Modern Design Expo.

I am very excited about the return of in person home tours in April. This stunning “Mesa Modern” was a featured home in 2020.
Indoor/outdoor living is a hallmark of midcentury modern architecture. This home showcases the concept brilliantly!

Visits to Frank Sinatra’s Twin Palms and the William Holden Estate are part of the 2021 program, as are outdoor neighborhood tours in Palm Springs, Rancho Mirage and Indian Wells; tours of the Lautner Compound; fashion events; and a vintage automobile exhibition.

Visits to historic homes like the O’Donnell House, are also a part of Modernism Week activities. I toured Ojo Del Desierto, or Eye of the Desert, as Thomas O’Donnell called his home, in 2020.
One of the O’Donnell House bedrooms features head and footboards carved with the iconic bell that marked California’s Camino Real established by Junipero Serra during the Mission period. The home is available for rentals and events.

This year there will be two outdoor tours of Sunnylands, one of my favorite places to visit in the desert and a discovery I made during Modernism Week a few years ago.  There will be a shuttle tour of the exceptional landscaping around the estate and a historic walking tour of the expansive grounds.

I first discovered Sunnylands during Modernism Week several years ago and have returned to this enchanting place many times since.

The former home of media mogul Walter and Lenore Annenberg, this midcentury masterpiece has hosted eight US presidents (two of whom were close friends of the Annenbergs), royalty and international leaders, and continues to play a role in promoting world peace under the auspices of the Sunnylands Trust.

Visitors to Sunnylands enjoy spectacular desert and mountain views. There will be two outdoor tours offered during Modernism Week 2021.

When indoor tours resume, take one!  You have to see the Reagan’s favorite bedroom where Mrs. Annenberg made sure to have plenty of the former President’s preferred snack—Jellybelly jelly beans that just happen to coordinate with the bed linens! You can read and see more about this desert treasure here.

Interior tours of Sunnylands are not available now due to the pandemic, but we highly recommend you take one when they return. Photography is not permitted inside the home. This image is courtesy of Sunnylands.

There are plenty of free and low-cost activities during Modernism Week. Some of the best values are the fascinating presentations given by experts in design, architecture, midcentury culture and style, and landscape design. Some of these cost as little as $10.

Some of Modernism Week’s presentations take place at the nearby Palm Springs Art Museum, like this one about Eero Saarinen.
Textile designer and social “disrupter” Marguerita Mergentime was the subject of another fascinating presentation during Modernism Week 2020.

Ticket sales support an ongoing scholarship program for Coachella Valley students embarking on an education in architecture and design. Attendees contribute to a worthwhile cause while enjoying all things midcentury modern. For more information and tickets visit Modernism Week 2021.

Wine Tasting In Oregon’s Willamette Valley

I’m no wine expert but I enjoy drinking it and learning about it. In my thirst for knowledge (couldn’t resist) I’ve been lucky enough to visit wineries and talk to wine makers in many of the world’s most important wine growing regions from the slopes of Sicily’s Mt. Etna to the chalky soil to Champagne and here in California, of course. After visiting Portland regularly for years; we were way overdue for a trip to explore Oregon’s Willamette Valley. 

It’s just about an hour drive from downtown to Portland to the heart of the Willamette Valley.

It’s little more than an hour drive from downtown Portland to the heart of the Willamette Valley, Oregon’s largest AVA and home to nearly 600 wineries. As much as I adore a good Pinot Noir, Oregon winemakers are producing other award-winning varietals including Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Riesling and lately, Gamay, as well as those prize- winning Pinots.

There are nearly 600 wineries in the Willamette Valley, Oregon’s largest AVA.

I was as impressed with the wines we tasted as I was with the casual, “walk-ins welcome” vibe at many of the wineries we visited on several recent trips to Oregon’s wine country.  Tasting room staff were passionate about the wines they were pouring and eager to share their knowledge everywhere we went.

Knowledgeable staff made wine tasting fun and educational at Saffron Fields Vineyards, shown here, and at the other wineries we visited.

My last visit was just days before the Covid-19 shelter order closed restaurants, bars, hotels, shops, and all those winery tasting rooms. Now that things are slowly reopening, I circled back with some of the wineries we visited to find out what people can expect post -pandemic.  

Reservations, masks, social distancing, and contactless payment are some of the differences visitors to this gorgeous wine growing region will notice, but it can still be a wonderful experience.

Things will be different for the foreseeable future for wineries large and small, but all were in agreement with a number of “new normal” requirements: Drop- in visits are largely a thing of the past. Most wineries now require reservations be booked online for timed tastings that will last between 60 and 90 minutes.  Masks are mandatory, unless you are seated, and staff will be masked throughout the tasting. Social distancing will be enforced. Most wineries have moved the tasting experience outdoors. Tastings will be staggered to allow thorough cleaning and sanitizing between groups. Menus will be laminated for easy disinfection or single use paper menus will be provided.  Hand sanitizer will be readily available.  Outside food is no longer allowed at most wineries. Most wineries are using contactless chip readers for purchases i.e. no cash. Everybody is working hard to keep the wine tasting experience safe and fun.

Here’s what I learned from individual wineries I contacted:

Argyle Winery

Let’s start with bubbles.  Argyle is Oregon’s premier producer of sparkling wines and they make excellent still wines as well.  The award-winning winery has a big, beautiful tasting facility with plenty of outdoor space.  Argyle is one of the first wineries you’ll encounter heading west on the 99 from Portland. Plan to stop.

Argyle’s Tasting House is a large comfortable space but for now, wine tastings will be held outdoors. Reservations are required, as they are almost everywhere now.

The Tasting House has re-opened and will welcome groups of eight or fewer by reservation only. Hours are the same as pre-pandemic—Monday-Thursday 11 am-5pm; Friday-Sunday 10 am-5 pm, but less seating is available due to social distancing regulations. 

To streamline the wine tasting experience, Argyle is offering two flights—a selection of the varietals they produce, such as Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Riesling, and one that is all sparkling (my favorite).  They also offer by-the-glass and half-glass pours.  Try the brut rose! Tasting flights are $20-$30 per person.

A wine club member created this low- touch wine flight delivery system using barrel staves. Photo courtesy Argyle Winery.

“We have reduced the flight options in an effort to minimize glassware used, and we have a cool delivery system for the flights that involves a barrel stave that holds the glasses and lets us deliver flights to the table without having to touch them.  One of our club members made them.  Innovation is everywhere during times like these,” says Argyle’s Cathy Martin.

There’s plenty of room to relax outdoors and enjoy Argyle’s award-winning wines.

“We have had lots of reservations, and everyone seems to be very understanding of the situation.  We really wanted to get the process down to make sure visitors felt comfortable and welcome,” adds Cathy.  

Argyle also offers curbside pick-up for online wine orders.

Saffron Fields Vineyards

We weren’t familiar with Saffron Fields Vineyards, but it was highly recommended by the concierge at the Atticus Hotel in McMinnville, so we took a drive to Yamhill. We spent a leisurely afternoon at Saffron Fields, enjoying their stunning Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays in one of the loveliest tasting rooms we’d visited.  The tasting room is surrounded by Japanese gardens, designed by Hoichi Kurisu, the former director of the acclaimed Japanese Gardens in Portland. Like everywhere else in the valley, the pandemic has caused operational changes at this former dairy farm.

Saffron Field’s tasting room is surrounded by serene Japanese gardens.

Saffron Fields is by appointment only now, wine club members included.   Andrea Feero says, “We are pleased to have reopened to the public and are happy to see guests fill our patio once again. Our tasting room hosts are still providing the same warm welcome and hospitality as before.”

“If guests arrive early, they are asked to wait in their vehicle until they are notified that their table is ready.   Most tastings will occur outside, but we do have space inside the tasting room if needed or requested.   All tastings are seated flights.  Additionally, we offer bottle purchases for onsite consumption on the lawn, this is what we are calling our Alfresco Experience on the Lawn.  This experience is ideal for 5-10 people,” says Andrea.  

Tastings will take place outside at Saffron Fields and reservations are required.

Children and dogs were welcome at Saffron Fields pre-Covid-19, but Andrea adds, “We love both, but I am not sure how we will move forward with this and are taking it as a case by case approach.   Regrettably, both open the door to encroachment of the six-foot rule that we are trying to follow.”  

A standard tasting is $25, and guests should allow 60-90 minutes. For reservations please contact info@sf.fair.dev or call 503.662.5323. 

Hazelfern Cellars

We have friends who are friends with the owners at Hazelfern Cellars, so naturally we planned a visit.  We already knew how terrific their Pinot Noir was and were looking forward to trying the current release as well as their Chardonnay. With our reservation confirmed, off to Newberg we went!

We enjoyed our private wine tasting in Hazelfern’s beautiful barn.

Hazelfern has one of the nicest barns I’ve ever seen and that’s where proprietor Laura Laing met us for our private tasting experience. They also have an outdoor tasting area, which uses local hazelnut shells as a ground cover– sustainable, practical and attractive! As expected, we thoroughly enjoyed the wines Laura poured.  I checked back with her to see what changes the pandemic has created.

“We’ve always been by reservation, so we have been able to adapt pretty seamlessly.  We have been utilizing a reservation system for a number of years now and will continue to do so.  This helps us plan and limit the number of people in each group, currently limited to 10 or fewer.  We have designated reservation times of 11 am, 1 pm and 3 pm and allow for multiple reservations at a time because luckily, our space is so large.  We are not currently accepting walk-ins. Tastings are $25 per person and guests can expect about five wines during the tasting,” Laura says. 

“Sadly, we are not facilitating tours or activities that have folks moving about the winery. Hopefully that will be back soon though!   We’ve been utilizing both indoor and outdoor seating when weather permits. The tasting itself is about 60 minutes and we ask guests to depart by 90 minutes to allow for deep cleaning between groups.”

Hazelfern has plenty of space for outdoor tastings. The ground cover is local hazelnut shells–sustainable and attractive.

 “Overall everyone has been so amazing, respectful, kind and so understanding of the new guidelines as we work to keep everyone safe and stocked up on wine, “ Laura adds.

For online reservations visit hazelfern.com or email hospitality@hazelfern.com

Remy Wines

Oregon is rightly famous for their Pinot Noirs but when you’re ready for a break, head to Remy Winery. Known for their Italian varietals, Remy’s tasting room is in a friendly yellow farmhouse in the Dundee Hills.   

Pre-pandemic, we dropped in and had a terrific tasting experience with Hannah, their Hospitality Director.   Like many wineries in the valley, Remy is now open for by appointment only, Friday through Monday for groups of six or fewer.

Remy is known for Italian varietals.

“We were always more limited by number due to our small tasting room and bathroom facility. Tasting appointments are staggered so that no more than one party will arrive at one time, with an hour and a half allotted to each tasting. No more than 22 people would be in the process of tasting at one time,” says Remy’s Erin Butler.

Social distance- appropriate barrels are set up around the property to serve as tables for outside wine tasting. Photo courtesy Remy Wines.

All tastings will be conducted outside. Wine barrels are set up throughout the yard, more than 20 feet apart.  There are also tasting spots on the covered front porch and at the picnic table. The tasting fee is $20 per person. Barbera, Dolcetto, Lagrein, Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris may be among the wines you’ll be poured.

“We have these cute tasting trays that Hannah’s husband built for us. Four carafes fit in line and are filled according to the number of tasters in the party. Guests pour the wine (1 oz per person) into their own glasses, limiting the number of contacts. The flights (four wines) change each week, with a selection of white, rosé and reds,” Erin adds.

Hospitality Director Hannah Graham (left), and owner Remy Drabkin, show off their new wine flight delivery system, built by Hannah’s husband. Guest will pour from carafes themselves, limiting contact with staff. Photo courtesy Remy Wines.

Remy usually hosts events during the summer months. This year will be different, but the winery is not giving up.

“We are getting creative and really sorting through those things now. The property is large, so we are still moving ahead with two of our al fresco dining experiences. The first is our partnership with Pittsburgh’s Black Radish Kitchen. We had about 10 guests coming from Pittsburgh, and they will now be having their own experience in Pittsburgh with BRK. Locals will still come to the property, and we will be mirroring BRK menu with chefs here (most likely Remy; she’s a great cook!).  Rather than one big table, we will be breaking them up into smaller tables,” Erin says.  

Remy often hosts outdoor special events during summer months and will continue to do so this year, respecting new public health regulations.

Plans are also underway for the Bounty of Yamhill County dinner, and the Opera on the Lawn.  “We’re keeping it fun, creative and safe. One of Remy’s greatest gifts has always been her creativity and can-do attitude,” says Erin.

Remy no longer offers food for purchase or allows outside food to be consumed on site, but they do have “porch pick -up” every day for wines ordered online. 

For reservation requests visit  wine@remywines.com or 503.412.8387. A $30 deposit will be taken and applied to tasting fees and/or wine purchases, ensuring a no-touch check-out process.  

Day Wines at Day Camp

Just before the shutdown, we stopped by Day Camp’s spacious tasting facility and enjoyed Day Wines’ petillant naturalle (sparkling) and Peridot- a 90% syrah and 10% viognier blend, along with her perfect- for- everyday Vin de Days, both blanc and rouge.

Brianne Day’s wines are made from grapes sourced from grower partners with biodynamic and/or organic practices.

Day Camp is now open for tastings Wednesday through Sunday from 11 am-5 pm but reservations are necessary for parties of six people or more.  The winery plans to use Open Table for bookings soon. Walk-ins are still welcome.

Day Wines will soon use Open Table for tasting bookings.

“It has definitely been an unusual time for us where we have had to make quite a few adjustments to how we typically run things here at Day Wines. But we are making it work. We’re very fortunate that we have a large patio area, with a lot of covered spots. We have heaters for when the Oregon rain hits, and even an outdoor fireplace for just chilly days. We feel very lucky for that, since we are not doing any tastings in our actual tasting room. Everything is outside now,” says Leyla.

Make reservations at tastingroom@daywines.com or 971.832.8196.

 Durant at Red Hill Farms

Durant at Red Hill Farms was recommended by our host at Day Wines and was another we dropped by to visit. The estate wines here include Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Rose of Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris. We particularly enjoyed the Pinot Noirs we tried and the Sauv Blanc and Pinot Gris were perfect for the unseasonably hot weather we were having. We were also impressed with the sensational views and expansive grounds, which include beautiful lavender fields, a plant nursery and Oregon’s only commercial olive oil mill.

We dropped in to Durant for a wine tasting prior to the pandemic.

Durant is the only winery I contacted that hasn’t reopened to the public for tastings yet, but they are welcoming back their wine and olive oil club members now.

Erin Rapp explains, “Wine and olive oil club members will need reservations and are limited to groups of six people.  There is no tasting fee for members, but the time limit is 90 minutes per group. Tastings are currently available Friday through Monday, outside only, and there is food for purchase that can be consumed on property.  Wine is also available for purchase by the bottle for on-site consumption.”

Durant has been operating Oregon’s only commercial olive oil mill since 2008. Tours are complimentary but reservations are required.

Durant’s olive oil mill is open for complimentary tours by reservation only.  Guests will soon have the opportunity to enjoy touchless olive oil tastings in the shop, Erin says.

Wine tasting is not yet available to the public, but walking trails, the plant nursery, and the shop are open daily from 11 am to 4 pm.

The plant nursery, shop, grounds, and the walking trail are all open to the public during business hours. The winery offers pick-up at the farm for online purchases, daily from 11 am to 4 pm and they’ll deliver orders of $100 or more to Salem, Portland and Vancouver (WA).

For updated information visit shop.redridgefarms.com or call 503.864.2000 x 2 for curbside service.

Terra Vina

Terra Vina is one of a number of smaller wineries with tasting rooms in historic downtown McMinnville.  Guests can taste varietals like Sangiovese, Cabernet Franc, Tempranillo, Merlot, and Petite Verdot. Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Riesling may also be on Terra Vina’s rotation.

 Terra Vina’s seating can accommodate groups of up to six. Reservations are required for one-hour seated tastings but walk- Ins are welcome if a table is available.

Terra Vina has taken a number of measures to ensure visitors enjoy their wine tasting safely. “Our tasting room has been reconfigured to allow guests to maintain a safe social distance from other parties. To minimize contact between our team and guests, we will be serving multiple wines in the flight at the same time. We will be using limited contact protocols for all transactions and will only be accepting credit card payment (no cash),” says Carole Dinger.

Terra Vina’s wines are available for sale at their McMinnville tasting room.

Currently, the McMinnville tasting room welcomes guests with reservations Fridays and Saturdays from 12-6pm and Sundays from 12-4pm. Tastings are $15 per person. Their Wilsonville vineyard tasting room will be open the second and fourth Saturday of the month from 12-6 pm. Vineyard tours will not be available until a later date.  Lawn seating will be available for bottle/glass consumption.

Summing It All Up

Things are changing day by day. Check in with the wineries you plan to visit. Be patient– everyone is doing their best to deliver a safe and fun experience!

Here’s the pandemic playbook–Wear your mask, wash your hands, respect social distancing, and be sure to check with individual wineries for reservations and updates before heading out for a tasting. Please be patient. In these fast-changing times, everyone’s doing the best they can. Cheers!

PS If you’d like some practical information on where to stay, eat and play in Oregon’s Wine Country click here.