travel

California’s High Desert Hidden Gems: Noah Purifoy’s Outdoor Desert Museum

I first learned about Noah Purifoy’s wondrous Outdoor Desert Museum while planning a trip to Joshua Tree National Park during the COVID pandemic. Museums, and most cultural outlets, were closed in Southern California where I live, and pretty much everywhere else, too. When I learned about an outdoor museum close to the town of Joshua Tree, I knew we had to go!

*Welcome to Noah Purifoy’s Outdoor Desert Museum of Assemblage Sculpture.*

After spending most of the day hiking in the strange but beautiful Joshua Tree National Park, we headed out for a look at another high desert gem—Noah Purifoy’s Outdoor Desert Museum of Assemblage Art. We drove through the small town of Joshua Tree, into the scrubby desert landscape, past large lots and small houses–more than a few surrounded by chain link fences. In this part of Southern California, pick-up trucks are far more popular than Porsches.

*The high desert landscape is the perfect setting for Mr. Purifoy’s assemblage art. Shipwrecked is in the foreground with White House to the left.*

Up and down the lonely roads we drove until our turn- off onto an unpaved road that ended in a dirt lot. A triumphal arch of tires spelling out W-E-L-C-O-M-E in a non- conformist way, let us know we had arrived.

*Please don’t jump on the Band Wagon, 1995. Tempting as it is, visitors are asked to refrain from touching or climbing on the sculptures.*

*Bowling balls play a starring role in a number of Mr. Purifoy’s sculptures.*

*Found materials of all kinds make up the monumental sculpture in the Outdoor Desert Museum, as in this work called Aurora Borealis.*

I have been fascinated by assemblage art for a long time. Created from found materials, assemblage art personifies the old saying, “One man’s trash is another’s treasure,” and shows how a creative mind can make something provocative, beautiful, and meaningful from goods that might otherwise have been tossed on the trash heap. Noah Purifoy’s Outdoor Desert Museum of Assemblage Sculpture is the embodiment of that.

*1996 Toilet Bowl Sculpture is just one of the 30 inventive and monumental assemblage sculptures on the 10-acre art site.*

Too often, we find ourselves exploring these out-of-the-way places alone. We were happy to see others here experiencing these amazing art installations.

*Purifoy’s work can be poignant and provocative. This piece is called White/Colored.*

*Homelessness and shelter are among the social themes Purifoy explores in his work.*

A renowned assemblage artist, Noah Purifoy first came to national attention with sculpture he created using burnt debris from the 1965 Watts Riots in Los Angeles. His work was part of 66 Signs of Neon, a landmark group exhibition that traveled across America and abroad from 1966- 1971.

*Prominently positioned, The White House includes plumbing ware and bowling balls. It took Purifoy three years to create.*

*Free brochures lead visitors on a self-guided tour of the 10-acre site. Docent-led visits for groups can be arranged through the Noah Purifoy Foundation.*

Purifoy was the founder and first director of the Watts Tower Art Center and was later appointed to the California Arts Council, a position he held for more than a decade. His work there included bringing art into California’s State Prison system under the Artists in Social Institutions program he initiated.

*This piece, called Kirby Express, was created from old Kirby vacuum cleaners and bicycle parts among other things.*

*Here’s Kirby Express from a different vantage point with Shipwrecked and Carousel to the left.*

*No Contest (Bicycles) is dwarfed by a Joshua Tree, the area’s namesake desert plant.*

Long a fixture on LA’s art scene, Purifoy, who was born in Alabama in 1917, moved to Joshua Tree in California’s high desert in 1989. He began populating his 10-acre sculpture park with works of all shapes and sizes using materials ranging from discarded toilets to tires and just about everything in between. Industrial materials, clothing, wood, metal, rubber, concrete and old appliances all found their way into Purifoy’s art.

*From the Point of View of the Little People, 1994.*

*Abstract, whimsical, inventive and thought provoking, Purifoy’s works are best experienced by a visit to his amazing desert museum.*

*Piles of old chairs became art in Purifoy’s wildly creative hands.*

From 1989 until his death in 2004, Purifoy worked to create a public art space that continues to attract visitors from across the country and around the world. Admission to the sculpture park is free but donations are welcome. The Outdoor Desert Museum is open daily.

*The Gas Station conveys a certain attitude. The White House is to the left.*

*Admission is free but donations are welcome.*

Purifoy’s work can be seen at the Whitney Museum of American Art in New York, Los Angeles County Museum of Art, National Gallery of Art in Washington, DC, as well as other prestigious art institutions here and abroad. These eminent museums have long since reopened their doors, but visitors to Southern California may well want to head to the high desert to experience Purifoy’s final and very impressive body of work. Visit the Noah Purifoy Foundation for more information.

Palm Springs—Marvelous Modernism Week

Palm Springs. Just the thought conjures up sunny skies, swimming pools, palm trees—a picture perfect place to relax and enjoy the desert climate, perhaps with a cocktail in hand.

Palm Springs is also a mecca for midcentury modern architecture, design and style. From February 13-23, 2025, the city will welcome Mid Mod fans for Modernism Week’s 20th anniversary! Naturally, I’ll be writing an update, but in the meantime, here’s a story I wrote a few years ago about this celebration of all things midcentury:

Palm Springs shifts into high gear each February, as Midcentury Modern fans from across the globe descend on this laid-back desert community for the 11-day festival called Modernism Week. In 2020, just weeks before the pandemic shutdown hit, 162,000 attendees came to enjoy midcentury fun in the sun. I was one of them.

*Bus tours, walking tours, bike tours, architectural tours, garden tours and my favorite– home tours– are all part of the fun at Modernism Week.*

Modernism Week offers more than 350 events including signature home tours, films, lectures, fashion shows, bus tours, bike tours, walking tours, garden tours, parties, a vintage trailer show, art exhibitions, vintage car show, design expo, cooking demonstrations, concerts—all focused on midcentury modern design, architecture, art, and culture. Here’s a look at some of the featured homes from past Modernism Week festivals:

The collection of framed artwork above represents popular midcentury swimming pool shapes. The owl-themed wall paper in the bar area is also very much on brand in this 2020 Modernism Week featured home.

*This room has midcentury style in spades, from the Hockney print to the light fixture to the room divider!*

*This midcentury office was so much fun, I’m using it as my Zoom background.*

*Wallpaper was an important design element in the classic midcentury home. This room shows how bold wallpaper keeps the look fresh.*

*This shagalicious sitting area screams 1960s… and that wall paper!*

*Part of the fun of home tours is meeting the architects, designers and the home owners who live in these wonderful spaces. Kevin and Howard are designers and the homeowners here.*

Lots of desert homes have courtyards featuring brise soleil– French for “sun breaker” –to let the air in but keep the sun out. You’ll see some elaborate examples from the double decker bus tours, as well as on home tours.

As if all those tours, presentations and special events weren’t enough, last year there were opportunities to meet with landscape architects (including my friend Amelia Lima, an award- winning landscape architect), authors, designers and other experts during the event–sometimes one-on-one to help you solve your design problems indoors and out. There was even a chance for some retail therapy at the annual vintage yard sale. There’s truly something for everyone who loves the mid-century aesthetic at Modernism Week!

*The always popular Modernism Show & Sale and Modern Design Expo is a highlight for many at Modernism Week.*

*Shopping for vintage decor as well as brand new pieces like this cork furniture by Eugene Stotzfus is all part of the fun at the Modernism Show and Sale.*

In addition to all those tours and talks, demonstrations and presentations, there are parties!

*They were just putting the festive finishing touches on this home, by Christopher Kennedy, when we arrived. It’s fun to experience featured show homes in a relaxed and convivial setting.*

I usually start my day at CAMP – Modernism Week’s ‘Community and Meeting Place’ and defacto headquarters for tours and events.

*I like to start my day with a cup of Koffi at CAMP! Koffi has been providing complimentary coffee and tea to attendees since I’ve been coming to Modernism Week.*

At CAMP, you’ll find information, complimentary coffee, a snack bar, pop-up bookstore and shop, cooking demonstrations, and swoon worthy sponsor displays from companies like Ferguson Kitchen, Bath & Lighting Gallery, Corian Design, JennAir, and Brizo. Many nights CAMP hosted live music by the Dreamboats and a happy hour. It was a great place to take a break, grab a bite and mingle.

*Meet my new friends. Dressed to impress for Modernism Week, they’re here from Calgary to enjoy live music by the Dreamboats and Happy Hour at CAMP.*

*CAMP serves as “headquarters” for Modernism Week. Step inside for information, tickets, book and gift shop, coffee, snack bar, demonstrations and more.*

Due to the ongoing pandemic and local and state requirements, Modernism Week will be different this year. The 2021 celebration will actually be two events. Organizers have announced that this year’s celebration will include an all-virtual program for the entire month of February and in person events scheduled for April 8-18.

The Modernism Week Online Experience from Feb. 1 – 28, 2021 will feature more than 20 video programs available for on demand streaming throughout the month. The April 8-18 festival in Palm Springs will include in-person events, including home and garden tours, as well as additional virtual experiences. Please visit modernismweek.com for program updates.

Charles Phoenix, the always popular midcentury modern expert and author, took us on a fabulous virtual trip to some of Palm Springs most iconic homes during October Preview Week. Photo courtesy Modernism Week.

I sampled Modernism Week’s first virtual offering during the October Preview Week event which was held all online due to Covid-19. I took a wildly entertaining virtual “ride” with Charles Phoenix, the cheeky midcentury expert and author who typically leads sold- out bus tours during Modernism Week.

Elvis Presley and his bride Priscilla spent their honeymoon at this Palm Springs Swiss Miss -style home. Modernism Week’s virtual tour takes you inside where you’ll get a peek at things like the circular electric range– high style for the times!

Mr. Phoenix is a hoot, to say the least, and led a fast- paced and informative trip around Palm Springs in his vintage ride. I “visited” numerous midcentury icons including Elvis and Priscilla Presley’s Swiss Miss honeymoon hideaway and Richard Neutra’s Kaufmann House with Mr. Phoenix and loved every minute of it.

*I’d seen the exterior of the Richard Neutra- designed Kaufmann House on other Modernism Week tours, but the virtual visit took viewers inside this home and many others.*

I also took virtual tours of the stunning SkyFall House—yes, you might expect Mr. Bond to arrive via parachute over the pool—the fabulous Pierre Cardin House with a 1972 special Cardin edition AMC Javelin in the garage, the Edris House with its Dixiecup lighting, and the home noted midcentury architect Donald Wexler designed for his own family, along with other historic area dwellings– all thanks to a series of videos created especially for Modernism Week. I’m looking forward to February’s slate of programs!

While the virtual programming was entertaining and informative, I’m excited about the April 2021 in person programming. Organizers have announced that all activities and events are designed to meet social distancing and safety protocols per California public health requirements.

Modernism Week’s 2020 featured homes were very special, particularly properties like the Miles Bates Wave House designed by Walter S. White.

The iconic Wave House, named for its curvilinear roof, was designed by Walter S. White for Miles Bates in 1955. The building, which had fallen into disrepair and was on the auction block when we saw it in 2018, was open for touring during Modernism Week 2020. The transformation was stunning!

Here’s what Miles Bate’s Wave House looked like when we first saw it in 2018. The inside was even sadder than the exterior. Happily it was purchased and restored to its former glory by LA’s Stayner Architects. Beginning summer 2021, it will be available for events and overnight stay rentals.

*Here’s a look at the cozy kitchen and living area of the Wave House, now beautifully restored.*

The upcoming April events will feature signature home tours, architectural walking tours, an outdoor garden tour, a number of talks and special events, plus the always popular Modernism Show & Sale and Modern Design Expo.

*I am very excited about the return of in person home tours in April. This stunning “Mesa Modern” was a featured home in 2020.*

*Indoor/outdoor living is a hallmark of midcentury modern architecture. This home showcases the concept brilliantly!*

Visits to Frank Sinatra’s Twin Palms and the William Holden Estate are part of the 2021 program, as are outdoor neighborhood tours in Palm Springs, Rancho Mirage and Indian Wells; tours of the Lautner Compound; fashion events; and a vintage automobile exhibition.

*Visits to historic homes like the O’Donnell House, are also a part of Modernism Week activities. I toured Ojo Del Desierto, or Eye of the Desert, as Thomas O’Donnell called his home, in 2020.*

One of the O’Donnell House bedrooms features head and footboards carved with the iconic bell that marked California’s Camino Real established by Junipero Serra during the Mission period. The home is available for rentals and events.

This year there will be two outdoor tours of Sunnylands, one of my favorite places to visit in the desert and a discovery I made during Modernism Week a few years ago. There will be a shuttle tour of the exceptional landscaping around the estate and a historic walking tour of the expansive grounds.

The former home of media mogul Walter and Lenore Annenberg, this midcentury masterpiece has hosted eight US presidents (two of whom were close friends of the Annenbergs), royalty and international leaders, and continues to play a role in promoting world peace under the auspices of the Sunnylands Trust.

When indoor tours resume, take one! You have to see the Reagan’s favorite bedroom where Mrs. Annenberg made sure to have plenty of the former President’s preferred snack—Jellybelly jelly beans that just happen to coordinate with the bed linens! You can read and see more about this desert treasure here.

Interior tours of Sunnylands are not available now due to the pandemic, but we highly recommend you take one when they return. Photography is not permitted inside the home. This image is courtesy of Sunnylands.

There are plenty of free and low-cost activities during Modernism Week. Some of the best values are the fascinating presentations given by experts in design, architecture, midcentury culture and style, and landscape design. Some of these cost as little as $10.

*Some of Modernism Week’s presentations take place at the nearby Palm Springs Art Museum, like this one about Eero Saarinen.*

*Textile designer and social “disrupter” Marguerita Mergentime was the subject of another fascinating presentation during Modernism Week 2020.*

Ticket sales support an ongoing scholarship program for Coachella Valley students embarking on an education in architecture and design. Attendees contribute to a worthwhile cause while enjoying all things midcentury modern. For more information and tickets visit Modernism Week 2021.

Into the Woods –Bomarzo’s Monster Park

We made our way to Bomarzo’s Monster Park on a beautiful autumn day, early enough that the morning fog still hung over the woods adding a decidedly forbidding atmosphere to the place.

With its strange and beautiful sculptures, eerie wooded pathways and vertigo-inducing tipsy house, I wondered for a moment if Lewis Carroll had taken inspiration from Bomarzo for his Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland.

*The dragon symbolizes time and wisdom, rather than destruction. At Bomarzo, the dragon fights a dog, lion and wolf representing spring, summer and winter.*

While appearing completely contemporary, this unconventional garden near Viterbo, Italy was commissioned by Prince Pier Francesco “Vicino” Orsini in 1552. Known for their balance, order and harmony, classical 16^th century Italian gardens with their careful geometric designs and extravagant water features seemed to celebrate man’s control over nature. Not so, the wild and woodsy Bomarzo.

*Bomarzo’s winding, woodsy paths are full of surprises.*

*The giant jaws of the whale warn visitors away from the water.*

Created by architect Pirro Ligorio in the Mannerist style, this garden is almost a rebellion against order and a tribute to life’s unpredictability. That’s what makes it so much fun to visit.

*Proteus, Neptune’s son, comes from the legend of Glauco, a fisherman who became a sea god.*

Instead of being adjacent to or surrounding the owner’s villa like most gardens of the period, this one flourishes in a nearby wood, nearly hidden from view from the palace above.

*Il Sacro Bosco, the Sacred Wood, is the opposite of the well-ordered classical 16th century Italian garden.*

There is no rhyme or reason to this garden. There doesn’t seem to be a relationship between the sculptures and their placement in the park, though that could have everything to do with the fact that they were all carved from gigantic rocks where the stone stood.

*Statues were carved on-site from stones where they stood.*

Il Sacro Bosco or the Sacred Wood, as the Monster Park is also known, is home to mermaids, sphinx, dragons, nymphs, fountains, a giant tortoise, and a heroic Hercules, among other fantastical sculptures.

*The tortoise symbolizes the feminine powers of water and ancient knowledge.*

Originally the sculptures would have been painted in bright colors. None of that remains today though some pieces are covered in downy green moss. I was slightly disappointed to see the tortoise had recently had her nice coat of soft green moss removed, though she was still a striking figure.

*An elephant carrying a castle was a popular medieval symbol and reference to Hannibal’s use of elephants to invade the Italian peninsula.*

*This elephant, holding a wounded or dead soldier, represents Rome’s victories and defeats.*

Many of the Bomarzo’s sculptures have historical, religious and cultural significance. Some are meant to be puns or puzzles. Others may have had meanings which have long been lost over the nearly 500 years since the garden was created. The brochure we received with our tickets gave explanations for all of the 35 key sculptures, as well as serving as a guide through the park.

*The sleeping nymph, which represents purity in Greek mythology, is both human and divine.*

The Ogre, or L’Orco, king of the underworld, is at the center of the garden and one of the most popular sculptures at Bomarzo. I found a photo of surrealist artist Salvador Dali sitting in the “Mouth of Hell” in 1938! He was so inspired by the Monster Park that he made a short film about the gardens.

*A school group posed in front of the giant sculpture amid much jostling and laughter, clearly enjoying the monsters and whimsical creatures throughout the park.*

The inscription above the entrance says, “Abandon all thought,” a reference, and maybe a tribute, to Dante Alighiere’s Divine Comedy- Inferno, where a warning above the Gates of Hell reads, “Abandon all hope, ye who enter here.” Don’t be put off. Inside the mouth, visitors will find cool respite and a small built- in table and seats. It’s a perfect place for contemplation and perhaps a picnic.

*Just try to walk around inside the Leaning House without losing your balance!*

Another popular stop, the Leaning House doesn’t seem so disorienting until you get inside and try to explore the rooms. There’s not much to see other than the family crest and motto. It is a vertiginous experience at best and not a place to linger—purposefully, scholars think. Some believe that the house represents the falling fortunes of the Orsini family, but nearly 500 years on, the house still stands!

*Proserpina welcomes visitors to the hippodrome area.*

Hiding around every corner or peeking through the trees are heroic and monumental figures. Proserpina, wife of Pluto, stands in for Diana and Juno greeting visitors with open arms. An enormous Hercules—a protector of good, is shown subduing the evil Caucus. Ceres appears with her circle of babies.

*Hercules, protecting the poor, vanquishes Caucus, who stole food from them.*

Neptune towers over the basin, while the open jaws of a whale warn visitors away from the water. Nearby, a giant nymph is both human and divine– a reference to the sleeping Ariadne. There are Furies, a pegasus, dolphins, lions and other mythical and magical creatures throughout the garden.

*The Winged Fury is of Greek origin and also played an important role in Roman religion. The Furies were considered guardians of national glory and the fertility of the soil.*

There are large vases with inscriptions no longer decipherable, benches with messages in Latin, and much more that will surprise and delight around every turn.

*Some of the benches have Latin inscriptions.*

*Scholars think this sculpture represents Bacchus’s descent into hell, goblet in hand. Medusa’s head is carved into the bottom of the giant vase.*

Il Sacro Bosco was created as a memorial to Prince Orsini’s late wife, Guilia Farnese, of the wealthy Farnese family. Their money helped fund the garden, which her broken- hearted husband intended as a manifestation of his grief and a place of shock and surprise.

*Il Sacro Bosco was created as a tribute to Orsini’s late wife, Guilia Farnese.*

A Pegasus in the garden represents Orsini’s in-laws– the Farnese family. The Temple of Eternity was built 20 years after the original garden as a memorial to Guilia and was designed with roses associated with the Orsini family.

*Wander as you like, but if you follow the suggested trail in the park’s brochure you’ll see all of the key sculptures and sights in this fascinating garden.*

Visitors are welcome to wander freely through the paths, but following the trail outlined on the brochure’s itinerary will ensure that you won’t miss a single one of the extraordinary sculptures and sights waiting in the Sacred Wood at Bomarzo. While the traditional gardens of the period we visited– including Villa Farnese, Villa Lante and Villa D’Este–are stunning, Bomarzo is absolutely fascinating. We’ve never experienced anyplace like it!

Lisbon’s Beautiful Belem

The Belem district is a fascinating and historic area of Lisbon that ought to be on every traveler’s itinerary—and it appeared that it was on the Sunday we spent there! Packed with monuments, museums and many of Lisbon’s “must see” spots, it’s just about five miles from the downtown area. It’s easy to reach via bus, tram or cab. We took a 10 Euro taxi ride for the 20-minute trip from Lisbon’s city center. The tram costs less but takes nearly an hour and with so much to see, we opted to save time.

There’s plenty to see and do in Lisbon’s busy Belem area.

Belem was the launching point for many sea voyages during Portugal’s Age of Discovery. The Tower of Belem was the last thing sailors would see as they left port and the first site to welcome them home.

The Church of St. Jeronimos and its monastery are beautiful examples of the decorative Manueline architectural style.

Before setting off, many sailors would stop at the stunning Church of St. Jeronimos and its spectacular monastery to pray for a successful journey and a safe return. These gorgeous buildings are wonderful examples of the decorative Manueline architecture popular in Portugal in the late 1400s through 1500s.

St. Jeronimos and it’s spectacular monastery are among Lisbon’s most popular sites.

The entry fee for the monastery is 10 Euro and worth it. It’s stunning and surprisingly peaceful in spite of the crowds. Admission is free for the church. If you plan to attend mass, be punctual. We arrived late and no amount of pleading would make the guards open the church doors for us until services were over.

Visitors to the church can see the tomb of famed Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama and the memorial to writer Luis de Camoes.

Entry to the Church of St. Jeronimos is free but there is a fee for the monastery.

We were directed to the end of a very, very long line. After standing around for quite some time, we realized there were no lines at the other end of the building and decided to go check it out. That’s when we found the National Archeology Museum.

Avoid the long lines at St. Jeronimos by buying a combo ticket for the Archeology Museum next door for an extra two Euro.

Here’s a tip we wished we’d known–walk right past those long lines in front of the monastery and church and make your first stop in Belem the National Archeology Museum.

The museum is full of ancient treasures and antiquities, some dating back to the Iron Age.

Buy a combo ticket for the museum and the monastery (the monastery is actually in the same building as the museum). For an extra two Euro, or 12 Euro total, you can enjoy the museum’s terrific exhibitions and avoid the crowds. The museum is a treasure trove of Egyptian, Roman, Greek, and Moorish artifacts. After touring the galleries, you’ll go directly into the monastery from the museum without waiting on the ever-present line.

This was the first megalith we saw and it inspired us to seek out the Almendres Cromeleque, home to 95 of these fascinating stones near Evora in the Alentejo area.

The museum has a rich collection of Egyptian, Greek, Roman and Moorish art and antiquities. Be sure to visit the Room of Treasures in the museum. No photography is allowed in that area but the display of coins and jewelry from 1800 to 500 BC is impressive.

After touring the galleries in the National Archeology Museum, you’ll enter the Monastery directly without waiting on any additional lines.

This fascinating time line inside the monastery captures 500 years of world history in words and images.

In spite of the crowds, there are numerous serene spaces within the monastery perfect for quiet contemplation.

You may notice long lines around the bakery just up the street from the monastery. If you’ve been to Portland, Oregon, this may remind you of the lines around Voodoo Doughnuts. I’m always amazed by the patience people seem to have in their quest for particular baked goods, but back to Belem…

Lines for Casa Pasteis de Belem snake around the corner. Worth the wait? You decide.

This is the place that claims to have the original and the best Pasteis de Belem. These are little custard pastries in a flaky filo- like crust. Locals say these are good, but you’ll have to decide if they’re worth waiting for. We didn’t, but we haven’t ever waited for doughnuts either. They sell Pasteis de Belem in the Starbuck’s next door without the wait, though buying them there doesn’t quite have the same cachet. You can find these delicious pastries all over the country though they’re called Pasteis de Nata (nata is cream) or Pastel de Nata, if you’re only having one, everywhere else except Belem. Try one or two and remember to add a healthy shake of cinnamon and powdered sugar on top!

Time for lunch or dinner? Turn down this little street to find Enoteca de Belem.

If you’re hungry for a meal, we highly recommend the Enoteca de Belem (+351) 213 631 511 Travessa do Marta Pinto, 12. Located on a little alley off the main street in Belem, this is a terrific choice for lunch or dinner. It’s very small so book a table or prepare to be disappointed.

We were delighted with our lunch at Enoteca de Belem. Here’s a peak at the menu.

Sitting at the bar gave us a chance to learn about and taste delicious Portuguese wines.

We sat at the bar since we had missed our reservation time—the museum and monastery were so fascinating we spent far longer than we had anticipated. The bar turned out to be perfect for us because in addition to a fabulous lunch, we had a great chat and learned quite a bit about Portuguese wines and history.

The perfectly prepared scallops with cauliflower puree and quail eggs were as delicious as they looked.

The freshly caught grouper was the fish of the day. Served with “clam rice,” it was an incredibly flavorful dish.

Portuguese cuisine often pairs fish and pork. The tender grilled octopus and spicy chorizo was perfection on a plate.

This classic dessert, Papo de Anjo, reminded us of an upgraded rice pudding. Comfort food at its best!

Our lunch was incredible and one of the best meals we had in Lisbon. Try the scallops to start and the grouper or cod if they have it.

When we asked for the wine list, we were handed these vintage binoculars and instructed to look around and choose whatever we were interested in from the shelves above the bar. There was a printed list, as well, but selections change regularly– thus the binoculars.

We opted for wines by the glass so we could sample several. The staff were well- versed in the wide selection available and happy to make suggestions and answer questions.

The knowledgeable staff will be glad to help you match the appropriate wines to your food selections.

Sailboats and other pleasure craft ply the waters off the embarcadero. The Hippotrip looked like Lisbon’s version of the Boston Duck Tours. Could be fun, but we didn’t try it.

Next, take a walk along the water down to the Monument to the Discoveries, which honors Prince Henry the Navigator, and was built in 1960 to commemorate the 500^th anniversary of his death. Henry’s mother, Queen Filipa of Lancaster, Vasco da Gama, Magellan, King Manuel I and the poet Camoes are all depicted on the monument.

The busy waterfront is the perfect place to stroll and people watch. It’s possible to go inside the Monument to the Discoveries, which commemorates the 500th anniversary of the death of Henry the Navigator.

The Tower of Belem was the last bit of home Portuguese sailors saw as they set off to sea. It offers beautiful views but be prepared for long lines if you’d like to climb the 120 steps to the top.

Further on, you’ll see the famous Tower of Belem. It’s possible to climb 120 steps to the top of the tower for the views. Lines can be quite long. Let’s face it—there are lines for nearly everything you’ll want to see in this area so just be prepared for that. There’s an Atlas Hotel along the way with a nice terrace, perfect for an apperitivo if you’re ready for a break from touring– and the lines.

There is a lovely park near the waterfront and we happened to catch a good- sized open air market there on our visit.

On our walk back, we came upon an open air market selling everything from hand crafted ceramics, art and jewelry, to tea towels and mass-produced souvenirs. There was also a lively folk dance competition taking place in the park and we simply had to stop and watch for a while. It was delightful!

Troupe after troupe of talented folk dancers took the stage in the park. We joined the crowd to cheer them on.

Near the stage where the dancers competed, we spotted this pavilion. It was a 2012 gift from the Royal Thai Government to Portugal, celebrating 500 years of bilateral relations between the two nations.

We wished we had more time in Belem. We would like to have seen the Maritime Museum, Coaches Museum and the Ajuda Palace. Next time for sure!

Portugal’s Mysterious Megaliths

Lisbon’s Museu Nacional de Arqueologia has numerous treasures including megaliths.

We saw our first megalith in Lisbon’s Museum of Archeology and we were intrigued. What were these stones with their strange markings? Where could we see more of them? It turns out the largest collection of megaliths on the Iberian peninsula is located less than two hours from Lisbon in the Alentejo region not far from Evora, the area’s capital city.

Drive in the direction of Nossa Senhora de Guadalup through the beautiful forests of cork oak trees to reach Almendres Cromlech.

There are numerous places to see megaliths in Portugal, many in the Alentejo, but Cromeleque dos Almendres, or Almendres Cromlech, is the largest and most prominent site. Older than Stonehenge, Cromeleque dos Almendres is located about seven kilometers off the main road, the N114, driving towards Evora from Lisbon. We were heading to the Evora after Lisbon and decided to include a stop to see these archeological wonders.

The megaliths are in a large clearing, surrounded by cork oak trees.

Head in the direction of Nossa Senhora de Guadalup through the beautiful forests of cork oak trees. The dirt road is clearly marked with signs–Cromeleque dos Almendres and Menhir dos Almendres– directing you to the site. You will either need a car or a taxi to get here. There is no public transportation available.

Visitors can wander freely around the 95 remaining megaliths, or menhirs, at Almendres Cromlech.

About 95 of the granite megaliths, also called menhirs, still stand in the area and date back to the Neolithic Period (4^th and 5^th century BC). The stones at Almendres Cromlech are arranged to form two rings and visitors are free to wander all around the area, though touching the stones is discouraged.

The Cromeleque dos Almendres is older than Stonehenge.

It is believed that the earliest stones were placed here in 6000 BC and that ancient peoples used the area at Almendres Cromlech until 3000 BC for religious purposes. There is still a great deal of mystery surrounding the purpose of the stones, their placement and the markings on them, but there is speculation that the site had astrological significance due to its latitudinal location.

The placement, purpose and meaning of the megaliths remains largely a mystery.

There is a map of the enclosure on site, which identifies particular menhirs and describes various markings on the different stones.

Helpful signs in English and Portuguese explain the history of Almendres Cromlech and a map of the area shows where the most important stones are located.

This is identified as megalith number 1 on the posted diagram. The markings are clearly visible.

A careful examination is required to see the ancient markings on many of the stones. Here’s a close up look at one.

Admission to the site is free. Guided tours can be arranged.

We chose to take a self-guided exploration of the area but guided tours can be arranged. We met a Canadian couple that had hired a tour company to take them out to Almendres Cromlech and explain the mysteries of this ancient site and they thoroughly enjoyed their visit. Admission to the site is free and there is plenty of parking.

Adventures in Fatima and a Day in the Douro Valley

There are two things travelers must bring along on every trip—a sense of humor and resilience, because sometimes, maybe even often, things do not go to plan. That’s where a sense of humor comes in handy. This was the case one Sunday in Portugal on what was to be our longest driving day– from Evora in the Alentejo, to the mountains above the Douro River in the north of Portugal, with a stop at the Shrine of Fatima. I had wanted to visit Fatima for a long time and since it was right off the freeway, we thought this was a perfect plan.

It was time to leave the beautiful Alentejo in Portugal’s southwest and head north to the Douro Valley.

We did not get an early start, which is no surprise to anyone who knows us, but instead enjoyed a delicious, and leisurely, last breakfast at Convento do Espinheiro before setting off for the Douro Valley.

Each year the Shrine of Our Lady of Fatima welcomes more than 4 million pilgrims.

Imagine our surprise when two and half hours hours later we turned off the freeway heading for Fatima and were greeted by plenty of police and even more motorcyclists– thousands of them. Many of the roads leading to the Shrine were closed and everywhere we looked there were motorcyclists—young, old, families, even dogs—all on two wheels.

Apparently everyone in Portugal, with the notable exception of these two visiting Americans, knew there was a special mass for motorcyclists that day at the Shrine of Fatima. After spending about an hour in the traffic jam, we realized there was no possible way we could visit that day. We very sensibly decided to come back on a weekday on our return to Lisbon. I wish I had taken photos of all those motorcyclists but didn’t want to risk offending anyone and there was no possibility of a speedy getaway. On our return visit, things were decidedly quieter.

On Oct. 13 each year nearly hundreds of thousands crowd this immense plaza to celebrate the anniversary of the apparition. On the day we visited, a week after our first attempt, there were very few visitors.

Turns out the plaza at Fatima between the basilica and the chapel can accommodate 1 million people– as it did when Pope John Paul II visited in 1987—and we imagined that nearly as many motorcyclists had made the pilgrimage that Sunday morning, too.

The open air Chapel of the Apparition was built on the site where the Virgin Mary appeared to the children.

Each year the Shrine of Our Lady of Fatima welcomes more than 4 million people. When we returned on a Tuesday afternoon a week later, there were no motorcyclists in sight and relatively few visitors. It could have been the 114 degree heat that kept people away.

Many visitors light candles at the shrine and pray for intentions and interventions.

We visited the beautiful basilica and the Chapel of the Apparition where nuns recited the rosary in numerous languages. We also took the time to light a few candles, which were available for sale at the shop and ranged in size from standard to enormous. Some were bigger than my arm!

There is a full schedule of masses, reciting the rosary and confessions offered every day.

It was so terribly hot, and since there was no shade on the plaza, we chose not to cross it to see the enormous rosaries and crucifix on the other side. That will have to wait for another visit. But now, back to our journey to the beautiful Douro Valley—

We enjoyed the drive from the Alentejo in the south to the Douro Valley in the north of Portugal. Be sure your rental car comes equipped with the Portuguese version of the Fast Pass.

Back to the freeway and on to our pousada we went, over winding mountain roads and bridges, through tunnels, and burned out forested areas. The main roads in Portugal are well- paved and well-marked. Smaller side roads are a little bit trickier, but we never had trouble finding our way even out in the countryside. We ate our picnic lunch in the car to save time and arrived in Alijo about three and a half hours later. It had been a long day.

Scenic mountain roads took us north to the vineyards of the Douro Valley.

When we finally arrived at the Palacete Alijo, the first thing we noticed was the laundry hanging out to dry on the balconies. Inside, the pousada didn’t come close to living up to the photos we’d seen online. Perhaps someone had carefully cropped out the propane tanks next door and the rust marks surrounding the pool.

Sadly, this pousada in Alijo didn’t live up to expectations and we left without staying.

The website’s images didn’t deliver an accurate portrayal of the property. This was the view from the room we were meant to have.

The website indicated the place was part of the well-respected Pestana Group. The friendly front desk clerk told us that it hadn’t been for nearly five years and offered us a “welcome” drink. He also mentioned that the air conditioner was broken, brought up a few other housekeeping issues and again offered a welcome drink. We had planned to stay for four nights but after seeing the accommodations, we turned down the drink and summoned up Trip Advisor on our phones.

This was the splendid view across the river to Pesa de Regua from our room at the Vila Gale Douro.

Vila Gale (a hotel group popular in Portugal and Spain) had a river view room available for two nights in the town of Peso de Regua, right on the Douro River. Back to the car we went, grateful we hadn’t brought our bags inside—we never do until after we’ve seen the room. After another hour of driving, this time in the dark through the winding mountain roads, and did I mention it was raining?—we arrived at the Vila Gale Douro.

The Vila Gale Douro, part of a popular group of hotels in Portugal and Spain, is well- located across the river from Peso de Regua.

While my husband parked the rental car in the garage, I went to the hotel’s restaurant to secure a table before they closed. It was 10:30 p.m. at this point and we were really hungry. I thought I was imagining things when I my heard my name called out and turned to find two dear friends from home finishing their dinners. Had we not changed our hotel, we would never have had the chance to spend time with them. We agreed to meet for breakfast the next morning.

Our Vila Gale room was large, comfortable and contemporary and had terrific views from the private balcony.

It was lovely to wake up to this beautiful view from our balcony.

Portuguese wine aficionados know that the steep terraced hillsides of the Douro Valley are home to numerous well-regarded producers of table wines and of course, port. Our friends were free in the morning but had to return to Porto in the afternoon. We agreed that a visit to a nearby winery would be the perfect outing.

We spent a fun and informative morning with our friends at Quinta do Vallado.

Grapes grow seemingly everywhere on the Douro Valley’s steep hillsides.

Like the wineries in the Alentejo, you must make reservations to tour and taste in the Douro Valley. My husband had his heart set on a visit to Quinta do Vallado but when he telephoned, was told that the morning’s English- speaking tour was already full. With the help of our front desk clerk, we secured four spots.

Quinta do Vallado is a highly regarded producer of Douro wines and port. They also have a small hotel on property.

The winery is located high up on the terraced hillside across the river from where we were staying, just about a 10- minute drive away. One of the oldest in the Douro Valley, the winery celebrated its 300^th anniversary in 2016. Once owned by Dona Antonia Adelaide Ferreira (of the Ferreira Port family), production was geared towards port for the company’s first 200 plus years. In 1993, they decided to restructure and expand into producing Quinta do Vallado label table wines and in 2009 construction on the new winery was completed.

Our tour began in the vineyards where some grapes had already been harvested.

We followed our guide from the vineyards, through the production facilities, and into the cellars, as she explained each stage of wine making to the group in English. Tours are also given in Portuguese several times daily. We always ask if English tours are available, though rather than miss out, we’ve taken some in Italian, French and Portuguese at numerous places.

Our knowledgeable tour guide explained the wine making process in detail– and in English.

We saw everything from the grapes growing, to high tech, temperature controlled stainless steel tanks, to the traditional granite legares in which grapes are crushed by foot, to the cellars where the barrels are stored and wines are aged before they’re bottled.

We saw state of the art temperature controlled stainless steel tanks…

…and traditional granite legares where grapes for port are crushed by foot.

Antique barriques are still in use.

New French oak barrels are also used, depending on the kind of wine they’re aging.

After the very informative tour, we all gathered around a communal table and tasted Quinta do Vallado’s wonderful wines, working our way from crisp whites to delicious ports. Many of us made purchases in the quinta’s well-stocked shop.

After our tour we gathered around for a wonderful wine tasting.

During the tasting, we sampled crisp whites, full-bodied reds and finally, ports.

The well-stocked shop beckoned many of the visitors, including our friends and ourselves.

Though we were not able to tour it, Quinta do Vallado has a small hotel on property with 13 rooms—five in the manor house built in 1733, and eight in the modern wing constructed in 2012.

The roads in the Douro are narrow and winding but exceptionally scenic.

There were two things we planned to do in the Douro—wine taste and take a boat ride. After saying goodbye to our friends at the winery, we headed to Pinhao to check out the river cruise options.

The Douro has been used to transport people, port and other products down river to Porto for centuries.

The Douro River meanders from Spain through the heart of northern Portugal down to Porto where it empties into the sea. For centuries, port wine has been transported by boat down river to the city that shares its name with the wine. Day trippers from Porto, cruise boats from lines like AmaWaterways and Viking, private pleasure craft, and charter boats large and small ply the waters of the Douro River. Getting out on the river sounded like a perfect plan on that hot day.

Tourism is big business in the small town of Pinhao.

Pinhao is a small town seemingly fully committed to the tourist trade. There are souvenir shops everywhere and numerous choices for boat rides on the river. A one-hour ride was 10 euro from any of the vendors. We chose our boat based on schedule. They all come and go from the same place and follow a similar route.

River boats all leave from the same place and follow similar routes. Schedules differ but pricing does not. 10 Euro is typical for a one-hour boat ride.

Once aboard, you’ll learn all about the port trade and see many well-known names as you pass by the quintas. We had a delightful time and enjoyed chatting with newlyweds from the Netherlands and a Spanish couple. It was a relaxing and informative hour that passed in a heartbeat. We wished we’d opted for a longer ride.

Our convivial group included newlyweds from the Netherlands and a couple from Spain.

Bridges large and small cross the Douro.

Hillsides, which reminded us of California, are dotted with wineries.

You’ll see quintas with familiar names like Croft along with others that have been producing wine for centuries here.

Our journey was so peaceful and enjoyable we wished we’d booked a longer trip. Next time!

After our boat ride, we walked over to the historic Pinhao train station, which has been in service since 1880. The station is notable for its lovely azulejos—the blue and white tiles for which Portugal is famous.

Trains have been transporting travelers to and from the Pinhao station since 1880.

The station is known for its azulejos– the stunning blue and white tiles famous throughout Portugal.

These particular azulejos tell the story of the port trade in 25 large panels that were installed in 1937. There is also a café and shop in the station perfect for a coffee, glass of wine or edible souvenirs.

Pinhao’s 25 panels tell the story of the port trade.

The azulejos were installed in 1937.

The shop inside the station is a pleasant place for a coffee, glass of wine or a snack.

After a leisurely stroll through town and a stop for ice cream and souvenir shopping, we headed back to Pesa de Regua and dinner.

This former industrial building has a new life as home to shops and restaurants.

Just across the bridge from our hotel is a renovated industrial building on R. Jose de Vasques that now houses several restaurants and shops.

Picnic provisions and edible souvenirs are available here.

The contemporary dining room at Castas e Pratos was full on the Monday night we ate here.

We browsed a bit and then headed to Castas e Pratos for our meal. Part wine bar, wine shop, and restaurant, the place was buzzing when we arrived. We were glad we had a reservation upstairs in the airy and modern dining room.

Our starter was a plate of succulent scallops in a rich pea puree.

The tender veal medallions in roquefort sauce was served with a delicious wild mushroom risotto.

Larger parties were sharing dishes like this “Duck Rice”– a local specialty. It looked and smelled divine.

The menu has something for most tastes and includes fish, meat and vegetarian options.

Wines from all over Portugal were featured on the extensive wine list.

We started with a refreshing sparkling rose and ended with a nice tawny port.

Castas e Pratos has an extensive wine list featuring wines from the Douro and as well as all of the other wine producing areas of Portugal. Service was attentive and friendly and we enjoyed every bite of our meal from the scallop starter through desert. Happy and full, we returned to the Vila Gale to plan our next day’s adventure.

Porto—Sinners, Saints, Art, and of course, Plenty of Port

Portugal’s second largest city, Porto, or Oporto as the British called it, has a vibrant cultural scene, beautiful churches and a fascinating history, but for many, it’s all about the port.

Port!

Port and port tastings draw visitors from all over the world —after all, the city is named for the fortified wine. All the big port houses are here, along with smaller cellars worth investigating. Just across the river in Vila Nova de Gaia, you’ll find Sandeman, Taylor Fladgate, Grahams, Ferreira, Calem, Croft, Cruz, Ramos Pintos, Kopke, Cockburn and many others. Individual port houses vary in their offerings– there are guided tours, self-guided visits, port tastings, retail shops and several have restaurants on site.

Since there is so much to do in Porto and we had already spent time in the Douro Valley where the grapes for port are grown and the production of the fortified wine occurs, we decided to visit just one port house. We chose Taylor Fladgate because we also wanted to have lunch at Barao de Fladgate. Food is an important part of the travel experience!

Taylor offers a self- guided tour (with audio available in English) and port tastings in the garden afterwards. No reservations are needed for tours but they are required for lunch.

The self-guided tour, which includes a visit to the cellars, was fun and informative.

Visitors learn about the history of the wine, the area it comes from, and port production through photos, a short film and exhibits at Taylor Fladgate.

We thoroughly enjoyed our tour, which covered the history and “how to” of port production, interesting information about the families behind the cellar, and included a short film, static exhibits, photographs, and a cellar visit.

Afterwards we were entertained by a group of peacocks and one very loud, very busy rooster who was clearly in charge, during our tasting in Taylor’s garden. There is also a well-stocked shop on the premises with relative bargains compared to the prices you’ll pay in the U.S. for ports of this quality.

Visitors have numerous choices for their port tasting.

This fellow clearly ruled the roost and let those peacocks know it.

Taylor Fladgate is the only port house we visited in both our visits to Porto, so we can’t give details on the others, though Grahams was also highly recommended. Check with all those you’re interested in for specifics.

Many of the larger port houses have tours and tastings. Check individual websites for updated information and to make reservations where required.

A water taxi goes back and forth from Porto to Vila Novo de Gaia for about 3 euro. It’s a short but pleasant ride and sometimes you can see the local boys jumping off the lower level of the Eiffel Bridge to the river below.

Taking a water taxi is a nice way to cross the Douro after port tasting and exploring Vila Nova de Gaia.

If you are a serious port person or just want to learn more and sample some of Portugal’s best known export, look into a visit at the Douro and Port Wine Institute’s Interpretive Center. A word of warning – port is a high alcohol, fortified wine so taste judiciously.

Museu Serralves– Contemporary Collections

A peek inside the enormous Anish Kapoor installation.

As we said, there’s much more to Porto than port. For contemporary art lovers, the Museu Serralves is a top draw. The museum, which showcases contemporary art from the 1960s through the present, recently celebrated its 30th anniversary. Its vast collection includes more than 4,400 works either owned by the foundation or on long- term loan. Located in a beautiful park-like setting, it’s easy to reach by public transport, cab or Uber.

There are more than 4,400 works of contemporary art in the Museu Serralves’ collections.

Numerous models of famous works by Anish Kapoor, including Cloud Gate, informally known as the Chicago “Bean”, were on exhibit when we visited the museum.

The Incredible Hulk has international appeal.

There was so much to see and experience, we wound up spending almost all day at the Museu Serralves.

Some visitors practiced yoga and danced inside this Kapoor installation.

Museu National Soares dos Reis–– Porto’s First Public Art Museum

The oldest museum and first public art museum in Porto, the Museu National Soares dos Reis has been located in the beautiful 18th century Carrancas Palace since 1940.

“The Presence of History” by Pedro Valdez Cardoso, greets visitors at the Museu National Soares dos Reis. Duct tape and found objects were used to construct the sculpture.

The museum was originally created as a repository for artifacts like these, seized when the government dissolved monasteries throughout Portugal. — A 1934 terracotta sculpture by Canto da Maya is one thousands of pieces on display at Porto’s very first public art museum.

The museum was created as a repository for confiscated property seized when monasteries in Porto and other Portuguese cities, like Coimbra, were dissolved by the government.

The museum was created to house art and other treasures like these, seized when the government dissolved monasteries throughout Portugal.

Ceramics, glassware, textiles and furnishing are among the decorative arts on display here.

The museum’s collections include sculpture, paintings, textiles, furniture, ceramics, jewels and works such as a Roman sarcophagus found in the Alentejo region dating from the 3rd century, an 18th century French tapestry that tells the life story of Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama, and contemporary sculpture by Portuguese artists like Pedro Valdez Cardoso.

Portuguese Centre of Photography

Stories of spycraft, crime and photography converge at the Portuguese Centre of Photography near the Torre dos Clerigos. Yes, there are photo exhibits, but there’s much more in store for visitors here. The building itself, a former prison, is part of the story.

Housed in a former prison, the Centre of Photography includes exhibits about the people once incarcerated here.

Visitors can see cameras of every description including rare daguerreotypes, antique wooden cameras, spy cameras, and even disposable cameras. There are also exhibits about the prison and the people incarcerated within its walls, including political prisoners during the dark days of Salazar’s reign.

The Centre of Photography has special exhibitions as well as a permanent collection for visitors to enjoy.

The museum has revolving photo exhibitions as well as a permanent collection. We saw a fascinating exhibit of photos by and about the artist Frieda Kahlo.

Spy cameras used during Salazar’s tenure are on display along with vintage cameras and much more at the Portuguese Centre of Photography.

Former prison cells now house exhibitions at the Portuguese Centre of Photography.

Clerigos Tower– Torre dos Clerigos

While you’re in the area, consider a visit to the Clerigos Tower–– Torre dos Clerigos. A beautiful example of baroque architecture and a national monument since 1910, the tower offers expansive views of Porto.

Take a tour of this beautiful baroque landmark, a national monument since 1910.

Free or guided tours of this Porto landmark are available.

Se do Porto — The Cathedral of Porto and Churches Worth a Visit

A view of Porto’s Cathedral, or Se, at the top of the Praca da Batalha.

The Catholic Church has a major presence in Portugal and Porto has many marvelous churches filled with exquisite paintings, sculpture and azulejos. Visit the magnificent Porto Cathedral (Se do Porto) located in the Batalha area, the highest point in the city for the art and the views.

Though you’ll often read travel stories where you may be directed to “visit the Se Cathedral”, Se is the Portuguese word for cathedral, like duomo in Italian. Igreja means church. It is free to enter the Se but there is a small fee to visit the tower.

Inside the opulent Se do Porto, resplendent in gold and silver.

The Church of St.Francis or Igreja de Soa Francisco, Igreja do Carmo and the Carmelitas Church right next door, are also worth a visit.

Stop into Porto’s beautiful churches for some quiet reflection and to enjoy the art treasures within.

Located in Porto’s historic center in the building it has occupied since the mid 16^th century, MMIPO, the Museum of the Church of the Misericordia is worth a visit for its paintings, sculpture, religious articles and exhibits that tell the history of Porto’s Holy House of Mercy and the city itself. A visit to the museum includes entry to the church and is the only way to see it.

Porto’s Museum of the Church of Misericordia or Holy House of Mercy includes admission to the church, as well as the opportunity to view the fine art on exhibit.

Shop

If retail therapy is what you’re after, head over to Rua Santa Catarina. Santa Catarina is Porto’s main shopping street and is in the highest part of town, beginning at Praca da Batalha.

You’ll find all the well-known international brands and plenty of smaller, local stores along the busy street, as well as cafes and coffee shops including the famous Majestic Cafe.

The Majestic Cafe, open since 1921, is still a popular spot for coffee or a light meal.

Nearby, you’ll find Porto’s main market —Mercado do Bolhao. This is the place to pick up picnic provisions. If you’re lucky enough to have lodging that includes a kitchen, you can find fresh produce, charcuterie, cheeses, meats, and fish—everything you need to make a marvelous meal.

Sao Bento’s Azulejos

If you arrive in Porto by train and happen to come into the Sao Bento railway station, you’ll be treated to a remarkable display of azulejos – the fabulous blue and white tiles so famous in Portugal. Many people come to the station just to see the tiles, as we did.

The beautiful azulejos at Sao Bento rail station tell the story of Portugal and Porto’s rich history.

Rua da Ribeira Negra– Buskers, Bars and Boat Rides

The Rua da Ribeira Negra area is very busy and touristy but it is fun to walk along the river and enjoy the buskers and people watching. We saw people dancing, making music, and performing magic tricks.

The Rua da Ribeira is a lively area on the riverfront with cafes, bars and buskers.

Buskers sang, danced, performed magic, and blew giant bubbles hoping to collect tips from tourists on the Rua da Ribeira.

Most boat rides on the Douro River depart from Rua da Ribeira. We took an hour- long cruise–it was a nice ride and especially fun on a hot day! We did not book ahead—boats run regularly and there are a number of companies offering the same rides at the same prices. We picked the one leaving the closest to the time we wanted to go.

A boat ride on the Douro was the perfect antidote to a hot summer day.

Pick the river cruise that suits your departure time and length of journey. Most companies offer the same itineraries and rates.

Souvenir vendors line the riverfront. If you’re looking for cork products, tea towels and “typical” Portuguese goods, you’ll find them here.

Souvenir shopping under the Eiffel Bridge in Porto.

Shopping for tea towels for their new life together?

Sleep

Here, as in most cities, there are lodging options for all tastes and budgets. We stayed at the Eurostars Porto Douro just a 10- minute walk along the river to the Rua da Ribeira Negra area. The hotel is comfortable, clean and well- priced. Our large room had a little kitchenette perfect for making a cup of tea or a snack and the view from our balcony of the Eiffel Bridge, the boats and people passing up and down the river was unbeatable.

Our spacious corner room had a fabulous river view from the balcony.

The kitchenette was a nice addition to our room.

Breakfast was included in our rate and offered everything we could want from hot dishes to yogurt, fruit and pastries, including the Portuguese specialty pasteis de nata. The clientele was international and Americans were definitely in the minority here. We met some terrific fellow travelers and the front desk staff couldn’t have been more helpful.

The hotel has a well-priced laundry service (shirts were about 7 Euro), important since we rarely check luggage. There is not a full-service restaurant at the Eurostars but there is a bar serving light fare. There’s also a rooftop terrace with spectacular views and bar service during the summer months.

We enjoyed wonderful views up and down the river from the rooftop terrace at the Eurostars.

We also enjoyed a too-brief stay at the historic Infante Sagres Hotel in the heart of Porto. After an absolutely awful experience with the Rosa Et Al Townhouse’s self-catering apartment on our first visit to Porto, we sought refuge at this magnificent grand dame of a hotel with its lux lobby and beautifully appointed rooms. The elevator has vintage alligator- covered seats so guests can sit and enjoy the ride!

Old world luxury is a hallmark at the Infante Sagres in Porto.

Local Portuguese marble was used floor to ceiling in our spacious bathroom.

A comfortable bed in a blissfully quiet room was just what we needed after a very long day.

We were lucky to get even one night here at the last minute on a sold-out weekend. Somehow the front desk staff managed to book the next four nights for us at the Eurostars. We will always be grateful for their kindness.

The sumptuous breakfast buffet at the Infante Sagres can be enjoyed in the dining room or peaceful courtyard.

Whether port is your preference or art floats your boat, lace up your walking shoes and discover the myriad charms Porto’s winding, cobbled streets have to offer.

Evora: The Alentejo’s Capital City

The Vasco da Gama bridge led us away from lively Lisbon to the rural beauty of the Alentejo.

An easy 90- minute drive southeast of Lisbon takes you to the expansive Alentejo region. Home to medieval villages, castles, palaces, pousadas, megaliths, wine producers, and vast agricultural lands, this beautiful area has something to please nearly all visitors. We made Evora, the capital of the region, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, our headquarters. This delightful small city is a great base from which to launch day trips to the many attractions in the area.

The Alentejo’s capital city is best explored on foot– wearing comfortable shoes, of course.

Remember to look up as you wander!

The historic city of Evora has interesting sites and several museums to explore. Just walking the winding streets is a fine way to spend a day, especially in the area around the Largo Conde de Vila Flor. After a pleasant stroll through the Praca do Giraldo, Evora’s bustling main square, we considered our options.

The busy Praca do Giraldo is at the heart of the city. Numerous shopping streets fan off from the Praca.

Cork is king in the Alentejo and is featured in souvenirs from sandals to handbags.

Portuguese pottery is also a popular souvenir.

Time was short so we had to make choices. We decided to save the Contemporary Art Museum for our next visit and headed over to the Museum of Evora, which was hosting a Chinese porcelain exhibition along with its permanent collections.

The Museum of Evora is housed in a former Episcopal palace built in the 17th century.

Beautiful Azulejos tiles line the stone staircase inside the museum.

Teapots, serving pieces, jewelry and other treasures from China are featured in the current exhibition at the museum.

Placards describe the fine Chinese porcelain plates on display in Portuguese and English.

The museum features paintings from the 15^th through 19^th centuries, drawings, engravings, 17^th and 18^th century furniture, and Roman sculpture from the 1^st and 2^nd centuries.

The museum is known for it’s 17th and 18th century painting and sculpture. This piece is by Antonio Teixeira Lopes.

Religious articles, like St. Blaise’s arm reliquary from the 17th century, are part of the permanent collection.

Visitors can see this striking bronze sculpture, statuary, mosaics and other artifacts from the Roman era.

Interesting archeological finds from the Neolithic Age and a collection of silver and gold religious pieces, and jewelry are also on display. There were few visitors on the day we were there.

Antiquities from numerous ancient civilizations are on view.

Artifacts from the Roman era line a courtyard hallway.

Just outside the museum is the Roman Temple from the 1^st century AD. Today, the ruins are undergoing restoration and are under wraps, but it is possible to see several of the Corinthian columns.

The Roman Temple which dates from the 1st century is mentioned in all the guide books, but until the restoration is complete, there isn’t much to see.

There is a small park behind the temple that offers nice views over the area beyond Evora and across the way you’ll find a lovely pousada, once a monastery that is now an upmarket hotel called Pousada dos Loios. Feel free to wander inside and take a step back into Portugal’s past. The restaurant here is open to the public.

Here’s a peek at the courtyard and restaurant at Pousada dos Loios.

This small park behind the Roman Temple provided a nice place to relax and enjoy the views over the city and surrounding countryside.

Many people line up at Evora’s Church of St. Francis to visit the Chapel of the Bones or Capela dos Ossis. The 16^th century chapel displays the bones and skulls of monks. We’ve seen the creepy Capuchin Crypt in Rome so felt no need to stop in after our visit to the church. The public gardens beside the church were much more appealing.

Inside the Church of St. Francis.

The Chapel of the Bones is a popular tourist attraction inside the Church of St. Francis.

If you have time, stop into Evora’s Cathedral or Se. It’s one of the largest medieval cathedrals in Southern Portugal and is said to be built on the site of a former mosque.

Here are the marvelously mismatched spires of Evora’s cathedral.

Close to the Church of St. Francis, you’ll find Evora’s morning market. The market is indoors and was smaller than some we’ve visited, but we also arrived fairly late in the morning after many of the vendors had closed up shop. Happily, there were several purveyors of tasty cheeses, cured meats, and fruits and vegetables still open.

Many vendors had already packed up and gone home by the time we arrived at the market but there was still plenty to choose from.

Everything you need for a nice picnic is right here–local pork products, sheep and goat’s milk cheeses and other tasty treats.

Evora has lodging options to fit many budgets and preferences. We chose to stay at two very different, but both delightful properties in and near the city. We began our stay at the lovely Albergaria do Calvario, just inside the walls of the city www.hotel@albergariadocalvario.com.

We enjoyed our stay at the small, well-located Albergaria do Calvario.

Located just inside the ancient Roman walls, it was easy to walk all around the city and access the freeway quickly for daytrips from our hotel.

The location made it easy to walk to Evora’s important sites as well as to dinner each evening. It was also convenient to reach the freeway for our day trips further afield. We’ll discuss dining and day trips in additional posts.

The comfortable bar area welcomes guests for drinks and light bites.

Ours was a large, comfortable room with a big balcony overlooking the hotel’s courtyard where many guests enjoyed breakfast, aperitifs, and conversation. Rooms vary substantially in size so be sure to explore your options when booking.

Our room was large and bright with a huge balcony overlooking the courtyard.

The marble used here is mined nearby. There is a Museum of Marble in Vila VIcosa we”ll visit next time.

There is no restaurant per se in the hotel, but they do provide a substantial breakfast buffet and have small meals, snacks, and drinks on offer in the bar. Anything ordered can be enjoyed in the courtyard, the bar area or one of the comfortable sitting areas.

This is just a small part of the bountiful buffet breakfast greeting guests each morning.

The courtyard provides a pleasant place to enjoy breakfast, drinks, or just relax.

Friendly staff are happy to help with restaurant bookings, excursion ideas or whatever you need to make your stay memorable.

The staff is extremely helpful and will even park and retrieve your car for you. Parking is available onsite at no additional charge. Laundry service is also available at a very reasonable price. The only thing we missed at this charming, small hotel was a pool, but we got that at our next hotel–Convento do Espinheiro Hotel & Spa.

Welcome to the Convento do Espinheiro.

We also spent several nights about 15 kilometers outside of Evora at the stunning Convento do Espinheiro. The converted convent was built in 1458 and when we stayed, was part of the Luxury Collection group managed by www.starwood.com. The property has traditional rooms in the original buildings as well as two modern wings.

We had a large room in the modern wing of the hotel, complete with a nice balcony.

We enjoyed our stay in the modern wing where we had a very large room with a balcony and views over the property towards to the inviting swimming pool. After nearly 10 days of non-stop touring it was the perfect place to take break.

The pool provided the perfect place for relaxation, lunch, drinks and a refreshing dip.

There is also an indoor pool and a nice spa on site where I enjoyed a relaxing massage. There are tours given daily of the expansive Convento which covers the property’s fascinating history.

Ancient olive trees dot the property which dates back to 1458.

These stone benches have been here since the property was a functioning convent.

There is no charge for the tour, which includes a visit to the beautiful church (still in use), monk’s cistern where a complimentary wine tasting is held each evening, the former dining area and kitchen, as well as the vaulted storage cellar which now houses the hotel’s terrific restaurant.

Convento do Espinheiro was one of the three wealthiest convents in Portugal. The church is still in use today.

The bells, one original, ring out to announce a wedding has taken place.

The wine cellar is housed in the monk’s former cistern, which was once filled with water.

A complimentary wine tasting take place each evening at 6 p.m. in the wine cellar.

We ate dinner there each night of our stay. The food is artfully prepared and beautifully presented by top-notch staff. Be sure to reserve for dinner or prepare to be disappointed—the dining room fills up. Should you choose to go offsite for your dinner and prefer not to drive, the helpful staff can arrange for a taxi into Evora.

Fresh local fish elegantly prepared is served with flair.

Luscious lamb chops with squash puree are featured on the menu.

Save room for dessert.

Where monks once stored their wine, olive oil and honey, hotel guests now enjoy a bountiful breakfast buffet. It is possible to enjoy your morning repast out on one of the terraces or in the courtyard area, as we did.

The former storage for olive oil, wine and honey, now serves as the hotel’s elegant dining room.

We also arranged to see some of the traditional rooms including the “royal suite” used by many honeymoon couples. It is truly spectacular in a beautiful old-world way and features a contemporary bathroom and private rooftop terrace.

The “royal suite” often used by honeymooners offers old world charm and opulence.

The suite’s bathroom features modern fixtures like this free standing tub.

A private rooftop terrace, one flight up from the suite provides glorious views of the area around the Convento.

If your travel plans include a trip to Portugal, don’t miss the beautiful Alentejo. We’re looking forward to our return to this fascinating area.

Three Scoops: Gelato in Florence

After a long day of touring, or in the middle of a long day of touring, or just because you’re in Italy, in the beautiful city of Florence, you’ll want gelato. Even if it’s wintertime. Avoid the places with the big puffy gelato displays and colors not often seen in nature. Look for signs that say gelateria artigianale, naturale, or biologico. Go for gelaterias that keep the ice cream in stainless containers—covered stainless containers are even better.

Covered stainless steel containers keep gelato fresh and flavorful. Daily flavors will be listed on signs along with prices.

All the available flavors will be written on a sign and you already know what fragola (aka strawberry) looks like. We love that you can choose two or more flavors even for small cones or cups, so experiment with any flavor combination you fancy. Go wild! If someone behind the counter asks, “Panna?” Just say “Si” and your cono will be topped with delicious fresh whipped cream, often at no extra charge. Feel free to indulge.

To make your gelato even more satisfying, say yes to panna montata– fresh whipped cream often offered gratis– free!

In Florence, some say Perche No! www.percheno.firenze.it can’t be beat. This is one of the oldest gelaterias in the city, serving it forth since 1939. It is good, really good, so if you’re in the city center you should definitely stop in for a cone.

Many of the best gelaterias have lines, but they go quickly. It is worth waiting at places like La Carraia.

Often touted as the best in town, La Carraia www.lacarraiagroup.eu , with two shops in Florence, is branching out and opening a store in Rome, too. We like their gelateria on the Altro Arno just over the bridge of the same name. This is a line worth standing on– and there is always a line. They also have scrumptious looking cakes and other tempting confections but we single-mindedly stick to the gelato.

You can choose at least two flavors even on small cones.

It’s hard not to be happy with a cone in your hand.

Our little apartment’s location by the Duomo caused us to walk by Edoardo daily. www.edoardobio.it We don’t resist temptation often or easily so had ample opportunity to sample their delicious gelato. Just grab a number by the door and peruse the list of daily flavors while you inhale the intoxicating aroma of their handmade cones. Don’t worry–the line goes quickly.

Grab a number and enjoy the heady aroma of fresh baked cones while you wait at Edoardo.

This is what delicious looks like. Chocolate with chili (cioccolato con peperoncino) and cinnamon (cannella) are two of my favorite flavors.

Grom www.grom.it was the first of the “all natural” gelato we enjoyed many years ago and it’s still delicious. The company began in Torino and now you’ll find them in cities across Italy, including Florence, and around the world from New York to Jakarta. They even have an outpost in Los Angeles now.

Grom is in cities throughout Italy and worldwide.

Gelato preferences are personal, of course, so go explore. Find your favorites and please share your discoveries with us.

Il Grande Museo del’Opera del Duomo: All About Florence’s Famous Duomo

Florence’s Il Grande Museo del’Opera del Duomo has nothing at all to do with opera. Instead, it is all about the work, or opera, involved in building, preserving and maintaining one of the most recognizable Renaissance buildings in the world—Florence’s Duomo, also known as the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore.

A spectacular view of Brunelleschi’s dome from Caffe La Terrazza.

If you’ve ever wanted to see how Brunelleschi’s magnificent dome was constructed, learn what the other options were for the Duomo’s facade, or see the remarkable art treasures once housed in the cathedral, this is the place to come.

Welcome to the recently reopened and reimagined Museo del’Opera del Duomo.

Soaring galleries give visitors a new perspective on the superb sculpture on display at the museum.

Re-opened in October 2015 after years of restoration and reconstruction, the Museo dell’ Opera del Duomo has an exquisite collection of sculpture, paintings and other masterworks displayed on three floors in 6,000 square meters of exhibit space, all designed to showcase the art to its best visual and historical advantage.

A visitor gets an up close look at a statue in the museum.

Most of the works were at one time in, or outside the Duomo.

These sculptures once graced niches in Giotto’s bell tower.

Some of the treasures to be found include the original North Doors created by Lorenzo Ghiberti for the Baptistry of San Giovanni along with the Doors of Paradise by Lorenzo and Vittorio Ghiberti. Replicas now hang on the Baptistry.

Ghiberti’s stunning Doors of Paradise and North Door once graced the Baptistry of San Giovanni but can now be found inside the museum.

Detail of door.

In all, the museum boasts 750 works of art covering 720 years of history.

Arnolfo di Cambio’s stunning Christ with the Soul of Mary

This exquisite silver alter features scenes from the life of John the Baptist and was created by Lorenzo Ghiberti, Betto di Geri, Bernardo Cennini, Antonio di Salvi, Francesco and Leonardo di Giovanni, Antonio del Pollaiolo and Andrea del Verrocchio.

Michelangelo’s poignant pieta, sculpture by Donatello including his magnificent Mary Magdalene as Penitent, and works by Andrea Pisano, Antonio Pollaiolo, Arnolfo di Cambio and other highly regarded Medieval and Renaissance artists are on display.

Michelangelo sculpted this pieta for his own tomb. He later destroyed it. It was reconstructed and acquired by Cosimo de Medici In 1671 and placed in the Duomo in 1722. It was the next to last sculpture Michelangelo ever created.

Donatello’s Mary Magdalene as Penitent draws many visitors.

Sacred items and iconography are part of the museum’s extensive collection.

In the Cappella Musicale, or music gallery, you will hear enchanting sacred music, and find works by Luca della Robbia and others, as well as rare illuminated music books.

Beautiful music fills this gallery where rare illustrated books, sacred objects and art treasures are displayed.

Brunelleschi’s dome, still considered a marvel of engineering, remains one of Florence’s most iconic monuments.

Models of Brunelleschi’s dome show how it was built and why it remains an engineering marvel.

In addition to the art treasures, the museum contains original building materials, equipment and tools, dating back to the Duomo’s 15^th century construction.

Wooden pulleys, ropes and other original construction equipment used to build the Duomo can be seen at the museum.

Original 15th century tools and equipment used to build the Duomo are displayed near a continuously running film that explores the design and construction.

Also featured are drawings and models of the dome and Giotto’s bell tower, which was begun in 1334, after Giotto’s death. An outdoor terrace offers splendid views of the dome.

Brunelleschi’s wooden model of the dome fascinates visitors.

A detailed model of the bell tower designed by Giotto is on display near beautiful stained glass windows created by notables including Ghiberti, Donatello, Paolo Uccelli and Andrea del Castagno.

Visitors to the museum will learn about the history of this spectacular cathedral, designed by Arnolfo di Cambio and dedicated in 1412. The name Santa Maria del Fiore means St. Mary of the Flowers or Virgin of the Flowers. Once the largest church in all of Europe, today it is third in size, after St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome and London’s St. Paul’s Cathedral.

A film called Courage to Dare about Florence during the Renaissance and the creation and construction of the Duomo runs continuously in the museum.

A number of possibilities considered for the Duomo’s facade are on display, including this one.

Combination tickets can be purchased for the Duomo Museum, the Baptistery, the bell tower and the Crypt of Santa Reparta, named for the 7^th century church that once stood on the site of the Duomo. There is no charge to enter the Duomo, but paid tickets are required for visitors who wish to climb the more than 400 steps to the top of the bell tower.

The Baptistry of San Giovanni always draws crowds. Tickets are required to enter.

Appropriate clothing is essential for entry. In other words, no shorts, short skirts or skimpy, shoulder baring tops on women or men. Bulky bags and backpacks must be checked. Visit www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it for information on ticket prices, hours and tours.

Admission to the Duomo is free but take care to dress appropriately or you will be denied entry.

On our visit, we also had free access to a photographic exhibition called Opera di Viva by Michele Pecchioli, which paid tribute to the hundreds of men and women who have worked to preserve the artistic integrity and cultural heritage of the building and the art works within for more than 700 years.

Michele Pecchioli’s photographs pay tribute to the men and women who restore and preserve the art and cultural heritage of Florence’s iconic Duomo.

The photos feature the restorers, artists, employees and security guards who play a role in safeguarding these treasurers and ensuring public access to the works for years to come. Note: This was a temporary exhibition and may now longer be available for viewing.

A close up of a security guard charged with safeguarding the priceless treasures at the Duomo and its museum.

When the sun begins to set in Florence, head over to Piazzale Michelangelo for another perspective on the Duomo —and enjoy the gorgeous vista across the Arno over the city.

Some of the most spectacular views of Florence can be had from the Piazzale Michelangelo. Don’t miss a visit to the beautiful San Miniato al Monte across the street. It’s the oldest church in Florence, after the Baptistry.

Florence’s Duomo viewed from Piazzale Michelangelo.

The department store La Rinescente has a terrace restaurant with fine views of the Duomo, as well as drinks and light fare.

If you crave an aperitivo with your sunset and Duomo views, go to La Rinascente, the department store on Piazza Repubblica. Go directly up to La Terrazza on the top floor and you’ll find a little rooftop café/bar with great views of the city and the iconic dome. It gets crowded so get there early or be prepared to wait.

Sensational sunset view over the Piazza della Repubblica from Caffe La Terrazza.

Cin Cin!

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