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Tips for Better Summer Travel Abroad

This summer is shaping up to be a record breaker with more Americans than ever heading to Europe and other foreign locales. We can’t help with the heat, weather, and crowds vying to take a toll on your summer fun, but these practical tips will help you get organized, take some of the stress out of overseas travel, and hopefully make your summer adventures better!

Check Your Documents

Make sure your passport is valid six months from your return date or renew it now!

You already have a passport if you’re planning on leaving the U.S. this summer, (please say yes) but is it up to date? Will it still be valid six months from your scheduled return date? If not, renew it today and be prepared to pay to expedite this.  If you’ve waited until the busy summer season, it is going to take longer to process.  Visit the US State Department to get all the information you’ll need.

Are You a Trusted Traveler?

Save time and stress at the airport. If you haven’t already, sign up for TSA Precheck, Global Entry and/or CLEAR to expedite travel. Some credit cards, like American Express Platinum, will cover the fees for these programs which range from $77.95 for Precheck to $100 for Global Entry (includes Precheck) for five years and $189 for CLEAR. You need to have an in-person interview to complete the application process for Global Entry and an in-person appointment for Precheck. Enroll in CLEAR on the spot at certain US airports and check to see if your airport is one of the few with free “security reservations” which allows you to book a time to pass through security lines.

Save time and stress at the airport– enroll in Trusted Traveler programs!

Be sure your “known traveler” number is included in all your flight reservations and on your airline loyalty program(s) profile.  You are enrolled in those, right?

Back Up Plan

Many people keep digital boarding passes on their phones, but there are instances when WIFI isn’t available, or some glitch causes those boarding passes to disappear.  Print your boarding passes, too. If you don’t have a printer at home, use the kiosks in the airport before you go through security.

Keep photos of all your important documents on your phone.

Take a photo of your passport and other important documents and keep them on your phone.  Make color copies of these documents, too. Keep one set with you and leave one at home or with a trusted friend or neighbor. This will come in handy if your passport is lost or stolen.  Having a copy with us made replacing my husband’s passport much simpler when it was stolen in London.

London is a fascinating city but getting a passport stolen there wasn’t fun. If this happens to you, file a police report before you go to the US Embassy.

If you have replacement photos taken for your new passport abroad, be sure to get them correctly sized to meet US passport requirements. Most European countries use a different size than we do. We had to go back for photos a second time, which was costly and time consuming.

Sometimes GPS doesn’t work. Bring paper maps, just in case!

We use Google Maps everywhere.  GPS is usually reliable, but there have been instances when it is not, or we cannot access the maps we thought we downloaded.  The time we were looking for our friend’s winery outside Lisbon and wound up facing down a tractor barreling towards us down a dirt tract GPS sent us on is one of many examples. Bring paper maps as a backup.

Amazon and American Automobile Association (AAA) are good sources. We like the detailed Michelin maps which show even the smallest backroads. Be sure to pack a car charger and a phone holder along with those maps!

Get the App

Download the apps for all the airlines you’ll fly on your trip before you leave home.

Driving?

If you really want to explore a country and have the most flexibility in your travels, you’ll need a car. You won’t have to adhere to train schedules and can go where ever you like, no matter how far off-the-beaten path your wanderlust takes you.

To really enjoy the Tuscan countryside, you’ll need a car.

Driving in the EU is not that different from driving in the US. Roads are well-signed and in good shape in most places. If you’ll be driving in Europe, and many other places overseas, you’ll need an International Driver’s License, also called an International Driver’s Permit (IDP).

Most overseas locations require an IDP. Get one before you leave home.

You can get one at your local American Automobile Association (AAA).  Download and complete the form at home and bring it, your state- issued driving license and the $20.00 fee with you.  You can have your photos taken at AAA. They’re the same size as passport photos.  The IDP must be issued in the US before travel and cannot be obtained more than six months before departure.

Book Your Rental Car Early

For best pricing and options, if you want an automatic for example, book your car early.

Book your rental car when you book your air tickets and hotels.  Chances are good that you will get a much better deal, the earlier you book.  I also double check prices several times including right before we leave town just to be sure there aren’t any last-minute deals.  I do the same with hotels.  We have had good luck with Auto Slash —a consolidator for all the major car rental companies, and you can still accrue your loyalty points when you book through them. Sign up for price drop notifications.

Check for damage and photograph your rental car before you drive off.

Be sure to examine your rental car carefully and report any and all damage no matter how minor. Take photos on your phone before you drive off. We recently had a situation in Naples where they blamed us for damage to the rim of one wheel and forced us to pay for it before we could catch our plane to Sicily. We had taken photos beforehand and are currently trying to resolve the situation.

Car Services

Another option is a point-to-point car service, like Daytrip, which we used to get from Vienna to Budapest. We had already turned in our rental car since we knew we wouldn’t need it in Vienna or our next and final stop, Budapest. We learned Budapest’s main train station was closed for construction and our plan to take the train would require a train, a bus and a taxi and a lot more time than we had anticipated. Instead, we opted for Daytrip, and enjoyed a very comfortable, door-to-door ride in a Mercedes van. We booked online and found the trip cost about a third of what our hotel quoted for the car service they used.

Take the Train

Train travel in Europe is efficient, often faster than driving, and extremely convenient if you plan to spend your time in cities. I wished we had turned in our car after our drive from Evora in Portugal to Seville since we only used the car to get from one city to another in Andalusia. We would have saved time and money taking the train from Seville to Granada then on to Cordoba and Madrid. If you’re going to be exploring the countryside or small towns, like Panzano in Tuscany, you’ll need a car but in this case, we didn’t.

If you’re mostly traveling in cities, take the train.

Download the apps for any rail lines you plan to use on your trip. I keep TrenItalia and Italo Treno on my phone because I frequently travel in Italy. It’s easy to check schedules, compare prices, book your tickets and select your seats on the app.

Easy to use self-service kiosks are available for rail lines in the station.

Most European countries have their own rail line– SNCF in France, Deutschbahn in Germany, Renfe in Spain, for example. Use their apps. You can also buy your tickets at the station at self-serve kiosks or at the ticket office, but be aware that popular routes during busy times, like summer holidays, sell out. If your timing is not flexible, get your tickets in advance. AAA also sells some rail tickets, like EuroRail passes, if you aren’t comfortable using your phone or handling the transactions in person overseas.

Pay attention to both the platform and the train’s number.

Remember to always validate your ticket in the station before you board the train or risk a significant fine. (This is also true for subways.) Keep an eye on the electronic board for both your train’s number and the platform you’ll need. I shared the story of how I wound up in Genoa because I didn’t look at the train’s number and hopped on an express train instead of the local I should have taken for one stop. That adventure took a few extra hours!

Join Hotel Loyalty Programs

Even if you haven’t stayed at a particular hotel brand before and you’re thinking this could be the time to try it, join their loyalty programs ASAP—before you reserve your room if possible. You can start accruing points and perks right away and may even find program members get a discount or a free breakfast beginning with your first stay. Adler Friends is one example where you’ll get an instant discount.

Being a longtime Marriott Bonvoy member got me an upgrade at Vienna’s Hotel Imperial. There was also birthday cake and champagne waiting for me!

If you’re a traveler of a certain age, investigate senior discounts. Book into one of Portugal’s Pousadas or Spain’s Paradores –lovely hotels often housed in historic buildings like a former castle, convent or fortress– and if you’re 55 years or older, you’ll save 30 percent on your stay with the Golden Age rate.

It never hurts to ask if you’re eligible for a discount!

Create an Itinerary

Your itinerary should include your flights, hotels, car rental information, train tickets, main points of interest/events (especially those for which you have purchased advance tickets like museums and theater performances), and dinner reservations. Be as complete as possible and include confirmation numbers, addresses, phone numbers and contact information for each.

First time visitors to Europe will want to see the highlights, like the Trevi Fountain and the Vatican in Rome. Include ticket information for the Vatican Museums, which you’ll buy in advance, in your itinerary.

This simple step will help you get organized and be sure there are no gaps or mistakes in your reservations. In the past, I’ve found overlapping dates and a night with no hotel booked once I’ve put all my reservations together in an itinerary. It is a handy way to share details of your travels with with family, friends, and those nice neighbors keeping an eye on things at home. I like TripIt and use their free product for my travels.

Take a “nature break” from your touring and visit green spaces like Madrid’s El Retiro Park.

A detailed itinerary is really helpful to stay organized, but be sure to leave plenty of time for wandering around your chosen destination(s) and making discoveries of your own. Every city has hidden treasures, beautiful parks to explore, and small museums where you won’t fight the crowds. Rome and Paris both have city-run museums that are free to visit and are rarely crowded! Don’t try to see everything– take your time and focus on a few highlights.

Bring the Right Credit Cards

Not all credit card companies and banks need to know your whereabouts abroad but some do and it’s a lot easier to notify them before you leave rather than risk having your cards or ATM card frozen due to fraud concerns. Make a note of all of the cards and contact numbers and keep it in a secure location in the event they are lost or stolen. Get a four or six-digit PIN for each card before you leave home and only bring cards with no foreign transaction fee. These fees can add 3-4% to every purchase you make.

Consider opening a separate travel checking account linked to an ATM card that you can access while you’re away. If the worst happens, your primary accounts won’t be accessible to thieves.

Leave any credit cards with a foreign transaction fee at home and use your cards for most purchases.

We were surprised to learn that American Express doesn’t cover your rental car issues in certain countries like Italy, Australia and New Zealand but does pretty much everywhere else. Keep that in mind when you choose which card to use!

Cash is Not King– But You’ll Need Some

There are certain things you have to pay cash for.
A bus ticket from Amalfi to Ravello is one of them.

You don’t need a lot of cash; in fact, you shouldn’t carry much at all.  There’s no need with no foreign transaction fee credit cards and ATMs nearly everywhere.  We always have a small amount of Euros left at the end of each overseas trip that we stash away for the next one.  You can get foreign currency from your local bank but the rate won’t be terrific.  Get just enough cash to pay for your taxi or transportation from the airport to your lodging, tip money, and get some coins in case you must pay to use the toilet—not that unusual in Europe. 

The Hungarian Parliament is a “must see” in Budapest. You’ll need Forints to pay to visit.

On a recent trip from Vienna to Budapest, our Daytrip driver handed us each four Forints when we crossed the Hungarian border explaining we would need it at the rest stop. We had been traveling in Europe for a month and had Euros and dollars with us, but no Hungarian currency.  You may also find some restaurants and museums in Europe that only accept cash, but you can stop at an ATM. 

Speaking of ATMs, some will try to charge ludicrously high fees.  When the prompt comes up asking you to accept the conversion rate, decline. You can complete your transaction paying the bank rate, which is the best choice.  When using ATMs be aware of your surroundings, cover the keypad when you insert your PIN, and pocket your cash immediately—just like at home.  Try to visit ATMs during busy, daylight hours and watch for pickpockets.

There will be times, particularly at hotels, when you’ll be asked if you want to pay in Euro, for example, or dollars. Always choose the local currency. It will save you money in the form of conversion/transaction fees.

Buy Travel Insurance

Give yourself peace of mind and get travel insurance.

No one likes to think that anything unpleasant will happen while they’re off enjoying the world, but things can and do happen –from a cracked windshield in your rental car to a cracked rib and worse.  Flights can be delayed for hours or cancelled outright leaving you stranded or missing your cruise. A family emergency may find you scrambling to return home in a hurry.  Be prepared for these contingencies with travel insurance. 

Accidents can happen while you’re far from home. Protect yourself!

We use Allianz and buy an annual policy with extensive coverage as well as providing emergency medical evacuation.  Read the terms of the policies you’re considering before signing the contract and find out exactly what your credit cards will cover so you don’t duplicate coverage.

Weather!

You already know summer pretty much everywhere is going to be steamy and there may be some rainy days, too. Bring an umbrella and a light jacket. You can also use the umbrella as a sun parasol, which I often do when hiking through sunbaked ruins in Italy and Greece. Always bring a swimsuit and sturdy, comfortable shoes for the long days of touring, and think light layers when you choose your wardrobe.

As the saying goes, “There is no bad weather, just poor wardrobe decisions.” Be prepared!

Bring clothes you’re comfortable in and that can accommodate an extra pound or two. Don’t even think about bringing flashy jewelry, five pairs of shoes, or a different outfit for every day. Read my packing hacks here.  

Dress conservatively if you are visiting a house of worship or risk being turned away.

If you’ll be visiting cathedrals and other places of worship, be sure to have a light wrap to cover yourself —bare arms and legs can get you barred from entering. Ladies, please don’t turn up in a skinny mini or shorts and a bra top or guys in a muscle tank and old shorts– you don’t want to miss out. 

An umbrella is also handy for sunny places, like the ancient ruins at Mycenae.

Think about the activities you have planned and bring what you’ll need to be comfortable doing them. Pack only for a week, no matter how long you’re traveling– you can get the laundry done! Leave all those cosmetic products home in your bathroom and pick up what you need overseas. Remember the liquids rule and only bring containers 3.4 ounces or less of your essentials in a quart- sized clear plastic bag. Questions about what’s allowed? Check with TSA.

Don’t Check Luggage

Airlines are notorious for losing bags especially during the busy summer travel season. If you don’t check a bag, they can’t lose it.  Plus, you’ll save valuable time not waiting around the baggage carousel, and money by not paying those hefty, checked baggage fees. Unless you’re traveling with very small children who need lots of extras, you CAN go carry on and when you’re dragging your bag through train stations, over cobbled streets, and up and down stairs in charming little European hotels, you’ll thank me!

Save time and money– go carry-on!
You don’t want to drag big bags around.

The Dreaded Gate Check

Sometimes you will be faced with a gate agent who insists on taking your bag.  Maybe the flight is full, and the luggage racks have no space, or they don’t think your bag is small enough to carry on–European rules are different—you’ll have to hand it over. Be prepared for this contingency by always keeping cash, credit cards, travel documents (including any vouchers and tickets), medications, keys, electronics, cameras, jewelry (if you must bring it), eyeglasses, and anything valuable and/or irreplaceable in a tote bag or backpack which are considered “personal items” and can fit under the seat in front of you. Add a change of clothing with fresh socks and underwear and basic toiletries and you’re good to go.  

Some airlines may make you pay to carry even small bags onboard.

Heavily discounted airlines may not let you bring anything other than a small purse aboard without paying for it. If this is the case, pay for the privilege of carrying- on, as far in advance as possible.  Prices go up as departure time nears.

Cancel Deliveries

You won’t want to worry about deliveries at home..
…while you’re enjoying the world!

If you regularly get a newspaper delivered to your home, get a vacation hold. The Wall Street Journal and the New York Times are among the dailies who will allow you to donate your papers to local schools if you’d prefer that option to having your account credited for days you are away.  Be sure to put a hold on your mail delivery, too.  The USPS will bring you a big bin with all your held mail when you return. 

Try not to order packages that will be delivered in your absence but if you do, let your neighbor know, so nothing is sitting by your front door possibly alerting criminals to your absence. In fact, it’s a great idea to let your neighbors know that you are traveling anyway—they can keep an eye out for any suspicious activity.

Some Final Advice

You’re all set–your carry-on and tote are packed, documents, electronics and chargers/converters easy to access, and you’re leaving for the airport with plenty of time to get through security.

Eat the gelato, linger in that cafe, take a nap– it’s summer vacation. Enjoy!

Here’s some final advice before you go:  To really enjoy your summer travel adventures abroad, bring your patience, be flexible, and keep your sense of humor sharp.  Leave unrealistic expectations behind and be open to new cultural experiences, different cuisines and meeting new people.  Don’t try to see and do everything on one trip. Take a nap if you’re tired—its summer vacation! Now go see the world and have some fun!

Autumn Hiking in the Dazzling Dolomites

You’ll see the imposing peaks of the Dolomites piercing the South Tyrolean sky long before you reach them. This stunning autonomous region the Italians call Alto Adige/Sud Tirol has been a mecca for skiers for decades, but our sights were set on autumn hiking.

The Dolomites have long been a favorite destination for skiers but these mountains are also a hiker’s heaven in summer and fall!

Our destination was Ortesei in Val Gardena, host of the 2024 Skiing World Cup and a paradise for hikers before the snow falls. We headed North from Trento in late September, with a quick stop at Cisalfa—a huge sporting goods store, to pick up warmer hiking clothes for my husband whose plans to wear shorts were thwarted by early cold temperatures. Snow was already falling high in the mountains. Florescent green fleece and hiking pants in hand, off we went to Ortesei.

The views become more spectacular as you wend your way up into the Dolomites– part of the Italian Alps.

After exiting the freeway, the winding roads become increasingly steep as you climb higher into the mountains.  Austrian until after WWI when it became a part of Italy, German is the preferred language in this region where Italian and Austrian culture and cuisine mingle. Everyone we met spoke German, Italian and English (or two of the three languages) while some locals also speak Ladin, a culturally significant language particular to a this area of the Sud Tirol.

German, Italian and Ladin are the three languages spoken in this area of the Sud Tirol.

For this reason, most places have three names—Italian Ortesei is called St. Ulrich in German and Urtijei in Ladin. Along with Santa Cristina and Selva, these three towns comprise the Val Gardena.

You’ll see plenty of sheep, goats and cows as you explore the mountains in the Val Gardena.
Picture perfect, Ortesei is the largest town in the Val Gardena.

We passed storybook dwellings and plenty of cows, sheep and goats before reaching the delightful Alpine town of Ortesei.  Shops specializing in locally produced high- quality carved wooden items, boutiques, art galleries, a lovely church, restaurants, cafes, and bars beckon visitors down the town’s main street—an inviting pedestrian zone. 

Ortesei’s main street, a pedestrian zone, is lined with shops, restaurants, cafes and bars.

The bright yellow Hotel Adler- Dolomiti stands out in its prominent position at the top of the pedestrian zone– our home for the next 10 days.

Market day brings vendors and visitors to town. You’ll find everything from sausage to ski wear for sale!

I’d chosen the Adler-Dolomiti because a stay here includes plenty of autumn activities. Daily guided hikes for varying levels of expertise and fitness, Nordic trekking, Kniepp walks, e-bike tours, Tibetan sound baths, yoga and exercise classes, a world-class spa with a new sauna pavilion, two indoor/outdoor pools, jacuzzi (with spectacular mountain views), a salt grotto, wine tastings, and gourmet dining are all on offer. It’s like the ultimate upscale sleep away camp for adults!

The guided hike to Col Raiser is spectacular and popular with Adler guests. It includes a stop at the Unesco “balcony”.

Activities, events, nightly dinner menus, spa specials, local lore and more are all in The Carpe Diem, The Adler’s daily newsletter available at breakfast in English, German and Italian. Guests can also access this information, and sign-up for activities, at info.adler-dolomiti.com.

There are activities for most levels of fitness at the Adler-Dolomiti. Staff are happy to help you select from the many offerings.

There’s a lot to do here but don’t be surprised to see guests at breakfast, in the lobby, or wandering the premises in their fluffy white Adler robes and slippers.  Many people come just to relax and enjoy the spa. They don’t venture out—nor do they don street attire, except at dinner!

There’s nothing like enjoying a post-hike swim and watching the steam rise from the heated pool while snow falls in the mountains above.

Half board, which we chose and highly recommend, includes an abundant breakfast buffet with cold selections like local yogurt and cheeses, charcuterie, made to order hot items, pastries and fresh baked breads, fruit, cereals, fresh squeezed orange juice and honeycomb—the hearty breakfast every hiker needs to start the day!

The Adler kitchen can pack a picnic lunch for hungry hikers. This first day hike to Furnes gave us a chance to get to know our fellow guests and reconnect with Alexander, who’d led us on hikes last year.

The lunch buffet is not included in half board but is available for a fee and includes hot entrees, cold items, salads, cheeses and dessert.

We chose half board which includes both an abundant breakfast buffet and gourmet dinners daily.
The dinner menu changes nightly and even after a week, there were no repeats.

Dinner starts at 7 pm with a menu that changes daily but always features a salad bar, a choice of appetizers, first courses, second courses and a very satisfying cheese selection and dessert bar. There’s also a nightly vegetarian option. You’ll have the same table and waitstaff each evening of your stay and if you don’t finish your wine, the staff will be happy to cork it and save it for your next dinner.

The weekly Tyrolean buffet included music by this gentleman who turned out to be a local cheese maker. His delicious cheeses were available that evening.

Once a week local musicians entertain diners at the Tyrolean buffet of local specialties from charcuterie to entrees, and my new favorite dessert—Kaiserschmarrn, a fluffy crepe served with a delicious berry preserve and plenty of powdered sugar. Are you hungry yet?

Kaisserschmarrn! Order this local specialty every chance you get. You’re welcome.

There’s nightly entertainment in the piano bar which is also open in the afternoon for coffee, drinks, and complimentary cakes. It’s a relaxing place to meet for a drink with your fellow guests before dining and after. Aperitivo time is part of the culture!

Part of the fun of staying at the Adler is making new friends. After a busy day, meet up in the bar for an aperitivo before dinner!

Rooms are large, airy and comfortable and many have balconies overlooking the expansive grounds– ours did.  The photos on the hotel’s website  adler-resorts.com are a good representation.

Here’s our room with a view! Fluffy robes and slippers, refreshing toiletries, soothing teas, water and local apples are provided.

Both times we’ve stayed we’ve had a view over the pools, the mountains beyond, and the lifts to the Alpe di Siusi—less than a 10 -minute walk from the Adler. It’s sometimes difficult to leave all this in the morning, but the mountains beckon!

Wouldn’t you love to wake up to this? The new sauna complex is just beyond the pools.
The gondola to Alpe di Siusi is just a short walk from the Adler and there is a car park if you’re just visiting for the day.

Europe’s largest alpine meadow, the Alpe di Siusi (Seiser Alm in German and Mont Seuc in Ladin), is crisscrossed with hiking trails, handy lifts to get you up and down if you get tired of hiking, and plenty of mountain bike trails.

Hiking, biking and spectacular views bring visitors to Europe’s largest Alpine Meadow from all over the world during summer and autumn.
Book a carriage ride for your sightseeing if you don’t want to hike.

The mountains in the Val Gardena are dotted with huttes– rustic restaurants where you can relax with a drink or a hearty meal. Some have a few rooms to rent.

You’ll find these rustic restaurants throughout the Dolomites. This is Sanon Hutte in the Alpe di Siusi.
A typical hutte lunch menu–hearty food is always on offer.

Part of the fun of hiking with a group from the Adler is the conviviality. We enjoyed a great group lunch at Sanon Hutte and thanks to my friend Claudia—Kaiserschmarrn for dessert! Some days we also just stopped for a coffee- during our trek or after. Lucky for us our German, Austrian and Italian friends spoke English and let me practice my Italian, too. Conversation was never lagging!

We shared lots of lunches, coffees and laughs together with our new friends.

We spent several days exploring different areas of the Alpe di Siuisi with and without guides. There are trails and loops at varying lengths and degree of difficulty and plenty of mountain biking trails– whichever you choose, the views are guaranteed to be spectacular!

Stunning scenery, like these views of the Sassolungo, make the Alpe di Siusi one of my favorite places to explore.
These are secretly the happiest cows– sorry California!

The gondola to Seceda and funicular to Resciesa are also just a 10-minute walk from the Adler- Dolomiti and will bring you to some of the most spectacular peaks in the Val Gardena.

So many choices– and they’re all amazing!

Seceda, at 8,200 feet, is part of the Odle Group and means needles in Ladin. The views are breathtaking!

A Seceda hike will make you feel like you’re on top of the world.
The modern funicular whisks you to Rescieda in minutes.
We were heading to the summit just as the clouds were lifting!
We had the trail mostly to ourselves in Resciesa.

We hiked Resciesa on our own one day and found ourselves in the clouds. The summit at Resciesa has a large cross on top– our goal. You’ll go left when you exit the funicular to hike here. There’s a hutte along the way, if you’d like to stop for a break, enjoy the views and soak up the serenity up here.

The Val Gardena has so much to offer and some of it is surprising! We visited Europe’s highest altitude rose garden in the neighboring town of Bulla, after a guided hike on a geo trail through the piney woods.  Who knew there would be a beautiful rose garden here? The roses at Rosarium Uhrenhof were having their second bloom and were robust in spite of the autumn chill. Admission to the garden is free but donations are welcome.

We hiked all kinds of trails in all sorts of conditions. The hotel’s complimentary hiking poles came in very handy, especially on the downhill slopes.
The Rosarium Uhrenhof is beautful even in the rain. Our guide, Pauli, showed us some of his favorite flowers.
The Dolomiti Rose was one of our favorite blooms.

Another day, we trekked along the Way of the Cross in Selva with our guide Alexander. After a relatively flat hike, we climbed to the ruins of the Wolkenstein Castle, which is built into the mountainside. Though we couldn’t enter, we enjoyed our picnic lunch on the “terrace” with amazing views over the valley.

Nearby Selva de Gardena is home to the ruined Wolkenstein Castle. It’s difficult to see from the path below but the trail to reach it is well signed.
Not everyone in our group chose to climb the narrow, rocky trail to the castle, but we did. There’s no pressure to do more than you’re comfortable with.
The castle is built right into the mountainside– a perfect defensive position!
The interior of the castle is posted but there are benches and stone walls you can sit on. Take in the views over the Val Gardena and relax for awhile.
Our guide Alexander shared lots of history, geography and local lore on our hikes.

While we saw lots of sheep and goats on our hikes, we also had an encounter with alpacas on our hike back from the Adler BBQ– which the hotel offers weekly (weather permitting) on Monte Pana.  If you stay at the Adler, sign up for the BBQ– it’s a great hike there and back and they serve a hearty, multi-course lunch of local specialties. Bonus– there’s Kaiserschmarrn for dessert!

Our chefs prepared an enormous pot of polenta, plus lots of local specialties from charcuterie to Kaiserschmarrn.
We may have been the only Americans here but everyone was really friendly and very patient with my halting Italian.
After lunch, many guests took time to relax and enjoy the splendid views from Monte Pana before hiking back to Ortesei. A shuttle bus was also available.
Alpacas! We passed a farm with these friendly animals on our hike back to Ortesei after a fun afternoon BBQ.

We also learned the basics of Nordic trekking in the Val D’Anna with a small group from the Adler and returned to the area on our own a few times.

If you’re hiking on your own, it’s handy to have Alltrails downloaded on your phone.

According to Alltrails.com, there are 54 hiking trails, 34 backpacking trails and 17 mountain biking trails in the Val Gardena. If you are setting out on your own, be sure to research current weather conditions (mountain weather can change quickly), difficulty of the hike, and bring necessary provisions with you.

Afternoons at the Adler include Aufguss. Different essences and music are pumped into the sauna for about 15 minutes for a super heated wellness experience led by an Aufgussmeister. Modesty note- swimsuits are discouraged.

We spent every day outdoors knowing that the Adler’s amazing spa awaited us after our exertions.  The big decision was whether to swim, sauna, take a class or just relax with a book.

Not pointing a finger at my husband, but I did hear some snoring during the very relaxing Tibetan sound bath!

We treated ourselves to a few well-deserved massages and enjoyed new to us experiences like the Tibetan Sound Baths and the relaxing salt grotto. Be sure to book some time for this semi-private therapeutic experience where you’ll float blissfully in an underground pool surrounded by salt walls.

Our friend Mario and his wife have been coming to the Adler for 25 years! We met at dinner our first night and hiked together many times during the week.

Many of the Italian and Austrian guests we’ve met return to the Adler annually.  One couple from Bergamo have been coming for 25 years!  We met one other American couple during our stay who were also returning guests. What a surprise to learn they were from San Diego, too! We hiked most days with the same small group of guests and formed friendships we know will last far longer than the vacation. 

Happy hikers! We’ve already booked our return to the Adler for next fall!
You won’t find scenery like this anywhere else. Go discover the Dolomites for yourself!

The exquisite beauty of the mountains, our new friendships, and the Adler’s outstanding hospitality will bring us back to Ortesei.  In fact, we’ve just finished booking our next visit and I’ll bet once you’ve experienced the Val Gardena and the dazzling Dolomites, you’ll return time and again, too!

Semana Santa- Celebrating Holy Week in Spain

Throughout Spain, the week leading up to Easter Sunday, known as Semana Santa or Holy Week, is observed in ways both joyous and solemn.  Each afternoon and evening from Palm Sunday through Easter Sunday, thousands of Spaniards and visitors gather in city streets and town squares to celebrate a Catholic tradition that dates back at least to the 15th century—to the reign of the Queen Isabella and King Ferdinand. The Catholic monarchs, as they are called, told the story of Christ’s resurrection to a largely illiterate population in a way that has endured for centuries, through processions. Here’s our experience:

Processions on each day of Semana Santa correspond to the story of Christ’s Passion, Death and Resurrection with different pasos depicting specific biblical scenes from the New Testament. In Ronda, one of Andalusia’s famous “white towns,” Jesus is shown arriving in Jerusalem on his donkey on Palm Sunday, traditionally the beginning of Holy Week.

We arrived in Madrid for the first time on a Maundy Thursday– the Thursday before Easter commemorates Christ’s Last Supper and is one of the Catholic Church’s holiest days. Though it was after 9 p.m., we were confident we’d find plenty of dinner options in a city known for dining late. Instead, we found one restaurant after another closed. Finally, at the Bar Santa Clara, the proprietor explained most places were closed not due to the hour, but to the day, pointing out it was Holy Week and that in Madrid people take Easter very seriously.  He told us we could have “anything on toast” but that was all they were serving that evening. We ordered everything available–cheese, tomatoes, anchovies, and ham—all on toast.

Good Friday is one of the most important days in Holy Week and the pasos and processions are fittingly elaborate. It was well after midnight when this Good Friday procession returned to Toledo’s Cathedral.

We returned to our apartment behind the Prado Museum close to midnight and were getting ready for bed when our son excitedly announced, “I hear a parade!”  We followed the pounding of drums and the heady scent of incense down the street towards San Jeronimo—the church favored by Spain’s Royal Family. Sure enough, a candlelit procession appeared out of the dark. First, we saw columns of marchers in various colored robes, faces covered, wearing tall, pointed hats.  It was unsettling. Next, seemingly swaying to the music and moving ever so slowly, came an enormous float we learned was called a paso, featuring a life-sized Christ figure.  Beneath it, we could see the strained faces of the men who somberly carried it on their shoulders.  We watched until the entire procession passed into the church.

Be prepared for huge crowds during Semana Santa. The Plaza Mayor in Salamanca, one of the most beautiful in Spain, filled in minutes before the procession began. Streets and sometimes whole areas of a city may be closed to traffic during Holy Week.

We didn’t understand the scale of Holy Week celebrations in Spain, or their importance, until the next evening when we found ourselves caught up in enormous crowds between four different processions around Plaza Mayor, as we tried unsuccessfully to get to dinner on time. This, we began to understand, was how they celebrate Semana Santa. We joined in the celebrations.

Sevilla is known for its elaborate Semana Santa celebrations. Chairs, banners and barricades went up at least a week before the festivities began.

Fast forward a few years and we are in Sevilla.  Preparations are well underway for Semana Santa though the festivities won’t begin for another week.  Colorful banners are hung from balconies lining the procession routes that crisscross the city. Barricades are erected, and chairs and bleachers are set up in key locations for those privileged few with tickets. The rest of us will crowd the streets and sidewalks waiting and watching for the story of the Passion of the Christ to unfold as it has for 500 years or more.

Every detail on the pasos must be perfect. At the Iglesia Colegial del Divino Salvador in Sevilla, members of the cofradia work together to ready their pasos for Holy Week.

Meanwhile, cofradias (also called hermandades) or brotherhoods, are busy in parishes everywhere, painstakingly assembling the lavish pasos. These floats are beautiful works of art featuring biblical scenes that tell the story of Christ’s Passion, Death and Resurrection from the New Testament. They hold life-sized statues often handcrafted from wood and can include precious metals. They are laden with candles, fresh flowers, and icons. The most beautiful of these hold a single statue—the Madonna or Senora Dolarosa, the grieving mother of Christ. She is enrobed in an elaborate cape, often hand- embroidered with gold and silver thread, wearing gleaming jewels and surrounded by candles and flowers.

Jamie is a member of the confradia at the Church of the Magdalena and one of the 35 to 45 men, called costaleros, who will carry this exquisite paso through the streets of Sevilla during Holy Week. Once fully decorated with candles and flowers, pasos can weigh 5,000 pounds or more.

While the pasos are being readied, you can visit them in their parishes. We spent days wandering from church to church in several cities to see these magnificent pasos up close, admiring the detail and careful handiwork of the cofradias. We had the chance to chat with one gentleman, Jamie, who is not only a member of the brotherhood at the Iglesia de Santa Maria Magdalene in Sevilla, but also one of the bearers, called costaleros, who carry the massive pasos for up to six hours through Sevilla’s cobbled streets.  He told us some pasos can weigh 5,000 pounds and take between 35 to 45 men to carry.  Only women carry the paso of the Holy Mother in some parishes, as we saw in several processions in Salamanca last Easter.

Pasos, like this one at the Monastery of San Juan do los Reyes in Toledo, are on display in churches during Holy week. Visiting different parishes gives you the chance to admire the careful craftsmanship that goes into these spectacular floats up close.

Shortly before a procession begins, the sidewalks and streets swell with families who seem to appear from nowhere and a carnival-like atmosphere prevails. There are street vendors selling sweets and snacks, drinks, balloons, tiny penitent figures and other souvenirs. Soon, the incense smoke thickens, music starts, and the excitement in the air is palpable. Fathers hoist their young children onto their shoulders, and everyone crowds closer and often right into the street where the procession will pass. Some processions have only drummers; most have full marching bands, and sometimes there is singing. Depending on the size and importance of a brotherhood, parish, and the day in Holy Week, there can be numerous pasos in a single procession.

People fill the streets and vendors with balloons, toys, sweets and drinks create a carnival-like atmosphere before and after Semana Santa processions.

Embroidered banners announce the cofradias; a priest with a silver cross leads children carrying incense or lanterns. Nazarenos in their colored robes, faces covered by capuz or hoods, and hats called capirote pointing high to the heavens, follow. These are the penitents. There are also Mujeres de la Mantilla, ladies dressed all in black from their lacey veils to their shoes, silently processing, carrying candles and rosary beads.  Everywhere in Spain, men, women and children march slowly through the streets during Semana Santa’s processions, each with a role to play in this ancient ritual.

Young, old, believers or not, everyone crowds onto Spanish streets, like this one in Granada, to watch the traditional processions that mark Semana Santa.

It is magical and emotional to be a part of this. Many people cry silently with tears streaming down their faces, some sob violently, others cheer and clap, or watch quietly as the exquisite pasos go by, but you will not see a blank expression. These processions touch people at the most visceral level. Finally, the pasos will re-enter the church they left from hours before and the streets empty almost as quickly as they filled.

The Senora Delarosa represents Christ’s grieving mother, the Virgin Mary. These beautiful sculptures are bedecked in jewels and exquisite garments, and surrounded with fresh flowers and candles. They usually follow the other pasos in Holy Week processions.

Every city we visited during this sacred time of year has procession routes and schedules available online and/or in print. Look for the booklets in cafes, shops and bars. This is valuable information for visitors to either find or avoid the processions. Be aware of street closures. Whole areas of a city may be closed to traffic and even passing on foot is extremely difficult, especially during the most important processions—like on Good Friday. Sevilla, Toledo, Malaga and other cities have Semana Santa apps, updated annually, you can download on your iPhone.

The Risen Christ greets onlookers from this paso at an Easter Sunday procession approaching Salamanca’s Cathedral.

We have been fortunate to celebrate Semana Santa and Easter Sunday in Madrid, Barcelona, Sevilla, Granada, Toledo, and Salamanca. Each city offered a unique and beautiful experience. No matter which region you visit, Semana Santa is an incredible time to be in Spain. It’s not too soon to begin planning for next year!

How to Pack Light: Five Weeks with a Carry-On!

Packing for any trip–a weekend in wine country, a month in Europe, or something in between used to be second nature for me, but my skills got rusty during the pandemic. What I did and did not bring on my first post-Covid lockdown trips were proof of that! Thankfully, I’ve had lots of trips and plenty of practice packing light since then.

Here’s how NOT to pack! What do they have in those big bags? And why?

I just got back from five weeks in Europe with only a carry-on roller bag and one personal item. If I can do it, so can you. Here’s how to to get organized and travel lightly on your next adventure.

These are my bags– for a five-week trip to Europe.

Get Organized

Waiting until the last minute to pack means throwing stuff I don’t need into my bag and not bringing the things I do. Make a list or download one from one of the many online sites that offer them free. Do a “preliminary pack” about a week before you’re leaving and finalize right before you go. This goes for your suitcase (you won’t be checking it) and your one allowable “personal item” — mine is a tote that carries a small purse, laptop and essentials like travel documents and medications.

Light layers took me comfortably from hiking in the Dolomites…

Check the weather.  Unless you’re traveling in mid-winter cold, you’ll want to pack light layers.  We stayed in a castle in Tuscany, went hiking in the Dolomites, wine tasting in Friuli, explored small cities in the Marche, spent time at the seaside in Abruzzo, and revisited the eternal city.

…to the Adriatic seaside, and lots of places in between.

The weather was very different in each of these places, but by taking layers, my five-week wardrobe fit nicely in my carry- on (thanks to packing cubes) and I had the appropriate clothes for all the weather we encountered.

Take Half the Clothes and Twice the Money

That’s travel advice someone shared with me years ago and I still take it to heart. Chances are you’re going to be moving from one destination to another and seeing different people in all of those places. No one will know you’ve worn that outfit five times already.  People everywhere dress much more casually than they used to– keep that in mind as you select your travel wardrobe.

Choose clothes you’re comfortable in– a trip abroad is not the time to discover your pants are too tight. If you’re like me, you may even add a few pounds on your travels so clothes that fit a little more loosely at the start of the trip is a good thing. I often bring a few things that are nearly ready for the donation bin, wear them a few last times and leave them behind– more room for new purchases in my bag!

Neutrals are always appropriate. Use accessories to change your look.

Choose neutrals. Pick black, white, camel, gray or navy as your base to create a “capsule wardrobe,” which means everything goes with everything else. Use accessories for a pop of color (I love scarves) and to change up your look. Remember the 3:1 rule– three tops for every bottom. Lay out whatever you think you need and then put at least one third of it back in the closet.  You don’t need it—trust me.

Consider the activities you have planned. Your wardrobe for hiking in the Italian Alps is going to look a lot different than a theater-going marathon in London. Obviously, you’ll want performance fabrics for athletic endeavors. Choose natural fabrics, think cotton and silk, that will keep you comfortable for everything else. Merino wool works for most of the year and linen can’t be beat for hot summer days. Separates will provide much more flexibility than dresses or jumpsuits, but I always bring a dress, just in case I am going to the theater after a hike in the mountains.

Some trips include all kinds of activities and events. We went from mountain hikes in the Dolomites to concerts in Salzburg and Vienna!

Nice trousers, a button down shirt and a sweater will be fine for a night at the theater for men, though many we saw at classical concerts last fall in Vienna and Salzburg were in suits.

People dress much more casually than they used to, even on a Saturday night in Rome.

You do not need five pairs of shoes. Bring comfortable flats that can also go out to dinner, walking shoes or sneakers for daytime, and sandals or flip flops (good as slippers, too) if you’re headed to a sunny locale. Three pairs is plenty and be sure they’re comfortable. Blisters will ruin that romantic Parisian stroll you planned. If you’re hiking, or going into wet/snowy weather, that’s a different story. Wear your heaviest shoes/boots on the plane. Never bring new shoes and leave those cute heels at home! Streets are cobbled or uneven in many destinations. Men can get by with sandals (in warm weather), walking shoes that are comfortable but dressy enough for evening out, and a good pair of sneakers.

Check out their footwear– flats and sneakers. Cobbled streets like these in Seville are more the rule than the exception.

If the weather is changeable, I pack a puffer jacket and a vest (Patagonia’s nanopuff is my go-to) and a lightweight, waterproof shell with a pair of gloves and a scarf tucked in the pocket. That combination sees me through all but the coldest conditions.

Laundry

Pack for no more than a week, no matter how long you’ll be traveling. Wash lighter things in the bathroom sink in your hotel. Bring inflatable hangers and a few plastic clothes pins (also good for keeping drapes closed) — and use hotel shampoo as laundry soap. For heavier things like pants and shirts we use Google Maps to find a fluff- and -fold cleaner with drop- off service near our lodgings. We dropped our laundry off in Kalamata and learned it was the same cleaner the hotel used, but we paid the local’s price. They even delivered our clothes back to our hotel for us.

If we can’t find a drop-off fluff and fold, we head to a laundromat.

If you’re staying in an apartment with a washer, lucky you. Don’t expect to have a clothes drier in Europe—you’ll likely have a clothesline or drying rack. That works, too.

Medication, Documents, Jewelry

Bring extra prescription medications in case your return is delayed—and these days, it easily could be. We woke up to a text announcing our flight home later that day from Madrid was cancelled. Keep medication in its original container, or to save room, get pill pouches (tiny plastic bags available at pharmacies), peel off and apply the label from your Rx bottles and you’re set. Never pack medications in your luggage.  Ask your doctor for paper copies of any prescriptions you take regularly in case you need to get more abroad. 

Keep passports and other documents, medications and any valuables with you at all times, not in your luggage.

Leave jewelry at home.  Unless you wear it every day, don’t bring it.  You don’t want your bling bringing unwanted attention.

They Sell Toothpaste Overseas

Hotels usually provide shampoo, bath gel, body lotion, soap, etc.– the basics will be waiting for you. No need to pack them.

Don’t bring every toiletry and beauty product you use at home. Stick to travel sizes of the few you must have and buy what you need when you arrive. Toothpaste, deodorant, shampoo and other necessities are readily available in most places you’ll be going. Remember–those 3.4 ounce liquids must fit into a quart- sized bag. If you transit through London Heathrow you will have to go through security again, even if you are departing from the same terminal you flew into. British Airways’ “quart” bag seems a tad smaller to me and you must be able to zip the bag completely closed or risk having your products confiscated. Not sure if you can carry it on? Check TSA.

Sunny skies can change in a heartbeat. Pack light layers and an umbrella and you’ll be prepared for almost anything!

Take an umbrella and a swimsuit no matter where you’re going.  If you unexpectedly find yourself at the seaside or it turns out your hotel has a pool, you don’t want to frantically shop for a swimsuit— a daunting proposition at the best of times. A small, foldable umbrella is great for sun protection when you’re trekking through sunbaked ruins, as well as for the rain that’s bound to fall.

We wouldn’t have wanted to miss a sunset swim at the Castello Delle Serre in Rapolano.

Go Carry On

Don’t check your bag.  In the old days I used to drag along a suitcase that was nearly as big as I am.  I’m not a tall person, but you get the idea. After a certain British airline lost my luggage on the way to a Mediterranean cruise, I now check a bag only under duress. I like knowing my belongings are right above me in the overhead compartment, especially if I’m making connections.

Don’t give airlines a chance to lose your bag or waste time waiting at the baggage carousel.

I’ve heard so many horror stories about lost luggage but this is one of the worst: A friend’s luggage was recovered at London Heathrow four months after she returned from what should have been a romantic anniversary trip– everything was wet and ruined. Don’t let lost luggage ruin your trip before it even starts.

Imagine dragging these bags around Rome?

If your flight is cancelled or delayed, your chances of rebooking or going standby are much better if you haven’t checked luggage.  When our flight home from Brussels was cancelled at the end of a busy Easter Week, we got the last seats on the next flight out because we had our bags with us.

While these aren’t huge bags, she’s got two of them, and a duffel, and a purse. Take at least a third of what you think you’ll need out of your bag– you don’t need it. I promise.

Use your coat as an extra carry on. Fill the pockets with small items (not liquids). Put a second jacket inside the first and put a vest or sweater in the sleeves.  Make every pocket count!

If you travel with a portable medical device it does NOT count as your one allowable personal item. You can bring it aboard along with your roller bag plus your purse or backpack/tote bag. My husband has one and he takes advantage of any extra space in the device’s carry bag.

Stay Connected

Electronics need chargers and converters so be sure to pack enough for all your devices. You may also want to add an international calling/data plan to your mobile phone before you go. Use WhatsApp to stay in touch for free and use free WIFI when you can, though obviously not for sensitive information. You can also get a new SIM card at your destination(s) but be sure to let friends and family know your new phone number.

Someone recently asked me if they needed converters for their hair dryer and other styling tools. The answer is NO– because you’re going to leave those things at home. Every hotel and apartment rental I’ve ever stayed in anywhere in the world has a hair dryer.

He’s heading to the gate with just the right amount of carry-on luggage, no matter how long the journey.

The take-aways–Pack light. Leave valuables at home.  Keep passports, medications and other hard -to -replace items with you—not in your luggage.  Don’t check your bag unless you absolutely have to, and remember, if you forget something, 99 percent of the time there will be stores where you’re going. Ready, set, pack!